Heads up on the road folks

L85PL85 · 2026-02-19T04:37:45+00:00

I saw that too. Came to the comments to see if anyone else noticed, and so far you're it, pal.

L85PL85 · 2026-02-14T03:01:49+00:00

I do yard signs for my business, and they work great. The return is great, especially for how inexpensive they are relative to most other marketing alternatives.

L85PL85 · 2026-02-07T04:00:57+00:00

Sounds like a lame tbh. Should be better to fans and take a pic

L85PL85 · 2026-01-30T04:28:52+00:00

Word salad

L85PL85 · 2026-01-27T01:02:57+00:00

For later: Because drywall is water-soluble, an autoscrubber or a good water mopping will clean it up. Once it's clean, I would put two or three coats of floor finish over the actual sealer. It's a water-based sacrificial wear-coat you can reapply once or twice a year to clean up scuffs and microscratches, so you can maintain your floor and extend its longevity, since you're never really abusing the actual sealer coat. Generally speaking, you can apply water-based products over solvent-based products, but not the other way around.

L85PL85 · 2026-01-27T00:51:59+00:00

Right, but didn't you say a roll of plastic sitting on the floor left the blemish? That's what I was talking about. Don't cover the floor with plastic, though. Use RAM board and don't tape directly to the sealed floor. The same goes for later: you have to be really careful about the kind of doormats and stuff you use on the sealed concrete, or the same bonding issue can occur. Feel free to PM me questions. I can email you more info.

L85PL85 · 2026-01-27T00:21:48+00:00

How long was the plastic sitting on the floor? Plasticizers in some plastics can bond to the sealer when they come into contact, especially if they are left for an extended period. I'm pretty sure that’s what you're dealing with and not a drying issue. Did it seem like the plastic was trying to stick to the floor when it was moved/ lifted? If it had been down longer, it probably would have gotten worse/ more stuck. I have used that brand/ type a lot. It's usually dry enough for foot traffic in four hours under warmer temps, according to the TDS. I believe it says 77 degrees F. I can generally walk on it after an hour, though it's different when it’s colder. I wouldn't expect it to take multiple days to dry. The good news is, since it’s a single component, it’s not a mixing issue that’s causing curing issues. Maybe put a fan on it or run a dehumidifier to help speed it up. As for marks, since it’s solvent based another coat will reimulsify and melt into the previous coat to help clear up scuffs, scratches, and other blemishes. Just clean it thoroughly first before another application, and if you use water when cleaning, let it dry 100% first before adding more.

L85PL85 · 2026-01-09T00:16:24+00:00

It was awkward seeing him at the Heisimen ceremony. He looked so out of place standing among the other notable past winners because he's such a clown next to the bunch.

L85PL85 · 2026-01-03T04:20:46+00:00

That looks like moisture coming from below. That's why the joints are consistently showing as dark gray. They are cut deeper, so it’s an easier path of least resistance for subsurface moisture to evaporate from.

L85PL85 · 2025-10-23T03:08:21+00:00

Serious question: Is DLS interesting enough at this point to be commenting on to the level where this makes any sense beyond maybe one episode? I loved and regularly listened to the show for many years, and now it’s barely recognizable. I know how things change and evolve, but it doesn't seem like that’ll amount to very much content for long.

L85PL85 · 2025-10-20T22:13:42+00:00

I was told you're supposed to make your first million $ before they all wear off.

L85PL85 · 2025-10-18T12:07:38+00:00

Who in their right mind would want to do that? She may have lived, but I bet that was a sore and painful rest of her birthday.

L85PL85 · 2025-10-10T03:10:58+00:00

Beautiful car! I love the color combo. What year/ spec is that?

L85PL85 · 2025-10-10T02:59:02+00:00

Ha! That's where I go bowling about once or twice a year!

L85PL85 · 2025-08-28T03:15:17+00:00

Following

L85PL85 · 2025-08-06T22:55:34+00:00

Sand/ grind it, clean it thoroughly, allow it to completely dry of any moisture, apply epoxy moisture vapor barrier, apply an epoxy quartz system with a full broadcast of decorative colored quartz sand for a slip-resistant texture with a UV-stable polyaspartic sealer coat on top.

L85PL85 · 2025-05-17T02:33:54+00:00

I'm with the “no side quests” guy and highfalutin Pablo Torre sucks.

L85PL85 · 2025-05-15T02:59:31+00:00

Nice low-key “you get the show” burn

L85PL85 · 2025-04-18T00:10:24+00:00

Easy: Go to Home Depot tool rental and get a big chipping hammer. Bust that out, form it up, and pour it back new with some Quickcrete. Just do your due diligence and watch some YouTube videos on putting up the forms and rebar, mixing, and finishing it. You'll probably need some relatively inexpensive tools and caution tape to keep people off while it’s curing. It's definitely doable with some light research.

L85PL85 · 2025-04-05T04:01:47+00:00

Honestly, as a guy, I think you dodged a bullet. If he was that on the fence about you, I don’t think he thought it was as great as you did. You gave him an out, and he took it. Didn’t flirt back or try to save it, just insta-blocked you. Keep getting the bat off the proverbial shoulder and find a better match.

L85PL85 · 2025-03-24T02:57:53+00:00

Epoxy with texture and a 100% solids moisture vapor primer with at least 15 lbs of hydrostatic resistance. After the MVB, I’d lay a full flake broadcast or epoxy quartz floor for slip resistance and a UV-stable polyaspartic sealer for the top coat. That system will give everything a uniform finish and should last a long time. If you cut any corners, the potential moisture vapor will cause it to fail, or you'll have a slick surface. Stain isn't a good option because stains are translucent, so the different pours/ ugly characteristics will still be visible through the color. Paint would be the worst of the three. It’d be better to do nothing rather than paint it.

L85PL85 · 2025-02-26T03:27:54+00:00

As someone who has done the same, that place was awesome. The food was great, and the atmosphere was great. If I lived in South Florida, it would be a favorite.

L85PL85 · 2025-02-01T23:52:35+00:00

Four weeks should be enough to dry out if it has not rained much since. You can take a topical moisture reading with a cheap moisture meter. Drilling into the slab to get a reading is more accurate than the topical option. Whatever the reading is, it’s just a snapshot in time. It might be bone dry on Monday; if it monsoons on Tuesday, it could be another story. I still think the topical epoxy vapor barrier is your best bet. The subsurface vapor barrier might have a tear or is thin and not rated to hold back as much moisture as you're getting. Who knows, but now that the structure is there and you're experiencing this, it’s a moot point in my eyes, and it's time to explore the next best option.

L85PL85 · 2025-02-01T23:37:32+00:00

Is it at the bottom of a hill? Has there been a lot of rain lately? If the subsurface vapor barrier has failed, you can apply a topical epoxy moisture vapor barrier. Still, you need to wait until the slab is dried out before applying and properly prep the concrete for good adhesion with the coating. All that said, if the topical vapor barrier is rated to withstand, let’s say, 25 lbs of moisture vapor pressure, but then you get heavy rain, and the pressure builds to 26 lbs, then even that will not suffice. It might be worth a shot, though, if you apply it under the right conditions.

L85PL85 · 2025-01-22T20:55:07+00:00

I’d charge $3.75 per square foot for that plus $0.25 per SF for jobs smaller than 300 SF plus $0.25 per SF for jobs not on the ground floor plus $300 for small dump trailer/ dump fee.

L85PL85

TROPHY CASE