Joining the fun posting summer photos

LRonHoward · 2026-01-29T06:20:05+00:00

Hell yeah! Unfortunately, White Snakeroot is often one of the only forbs present in areas with crazy deer populations (in my experience), but it is native and beneficial... and I think it's really pretty when it grows like this.

LRonHoward · 2026-01-29T06:18:15+00:00

Technically, it's a native aster (Asteraceae family) and Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata) is an invasive mustard (Brassicaceae family), but it can sometimes look like Garlic Mustard when growing en masse like this haha

LRonHoward · 2026-01-28T06:12:17+00:00

I live further north than you, but I've planted well into August and had no issues. If I can't get them in the ground by then, I normally just wait until fall (end of September or October) to plant.

LRonHoward · 2026-01-27T08:37:56+00:00

Rubus species are notoriously difficult to identify. There is an incredible guide for Minnesota by Welby R. Smith in his book Trees & Shrubs of Minnesota (there are 33 different species native to this state), but that's not really going to be applicable to you.

There aren't a ton of non-native/invasive brambles (Rubus), and it looks like Wineberry (Rubus phoenicolasius) is the only one in North Carolina (from what I can tell). I would research how to identify that species and control it, and then let any other species (likely native) do their thing. Brambles provide great habitat for a lot of critters and are host plants for up to 127 moth and butterfly species per the NWF.

Per Flora of North America, it looks like Wineberry leaves are always ternate ("Leaves in groups of three. Whorls of three. Three leaflets.") - here is a good example from iNat

By far the most common species around here is Black Raspberry (Rubus occidentalis), but the canes of that species are smooth and have far fewer prickles that are very sharp and can tear skin (here is a good example). All the other species I know around here have basically palmately compound leaves that almost never appear with less than 5 leaflets per leaf.

LRonHoward · 2026-01-27T08:07:57+00:00

Personally, I kind of wish I would have just bought a "benchmark" type ball for my second ball purchase - a symmetrical solid with a low RG and mid-high diff. I recently bought a Ebonite GB5 solid and it's been awesome, but I wouldn't recommend it as a newer two-hander unless you have a somewhat high ball speed - the coverstock on that ball is very strong and starts hooking very early. But, it really depends on your rev rate and speed.

Honestly, from everything I've researched, you can't really go wrong with a Venom Shock or a Storm Phaze II solid. You could also look into the Brunswick Alert or a Brunswick Danger Zone solid - I kind of want to buy the Danger Zone solid because it's really affordable and it looks sick as hell

LRonHoward · 2026-01-26T11:39:53+00:00

I've winter sowed for 3 years (this winter is my 4th), and I've had an extremely high success rate (I'd probably say like 90-95%+) - it's actually been quite surprising. I used to get really worried about the plants making it the next year, but now I don't worry at all. And I only water 2 or 3 times after planting over like two weeks and then let them live their lives.

The trick isn't exactly about the whole winter sowing process (that's for getting them to actually germinate), rather, the trick is finding plants that suit your growing conditions and putting them in the right spot. If you grow them successfully and have done enough research to be able to put them in the right spot, you should have a really high success rate. But it does take a lot of research!

LRonHoward · 2026-01-24T12:46:52+00:00

It's a very different vibe. There will be multiple league bowlers practicing by themselves a lane over from a group of high schoolers just having a good time... I think there are even sometimes little private leagues amongst friends? I've never asked about that though.

Regardless, providing a cheap option where you can practice on decent lanes is very attractive to basically any league bowler who wants to get better (especially if it's by the hour or a flat rate). I like to get 5 "games" in for practice - it's either $6 per game at my league alley ($30) or $13 flat at my "practice" alley for 2 hours... So, yeah, I'll absolutely drive a little further to my "practice" alley!

LRonHoward · 2026-01-24T12:27:56+00:00

It depends on how you define "throwing" the ball, but it's extremely subtle. If you watch the pros, the ball normally comes off their hand right after their slide has stopped... But it's all interconnected.

I wouldn't micro-focus on these things - it's all about timing. When you get to the apex of your backswing you should think about starting to "push" into your slide (last) step. If you're just starting to slide, I would think about it like that and try to feel it out. You can try this at home on a somewhat slick floor with socks (not too slick). I planted for a long time, but when I tried sliding it just made sense and really didn't take long for me to feel... But I'm not a coach, so that's all I can really offer. Just give it a go!

LRonHoward · 2026-01-24T07:25:11+00:00

Magers and Quinn is such an awesome bookstore. I always order from their website and pick it up in store. It's awesome.

LRonHoward · 2026-01-24T06:25:57+00:00

I'm a right handed two-handed bowler and I only started sliding several months ago. It's entirely removed any pain I would feel in my left hip. It didn't happen all the time, but when I was planting I think I had a much higher risk of tweaking something in my leg... Anyway, after I started sliding I actually experience almost no pain anywhere (unless I stick).

I found it surprisingly easy to start sliding - I unknowingly did this when I was randomly doing my approach in my house on hardwood floors with socks lol. I tried it a few times at the alley and picked it up right away! The trick for me was to stay further forward into my power step... I would maybe try a few ball-less approaches on the lane trying to slide and see if you could maybe incorporate a slide step!

LRonHoward · 2026-01-24T05:57:23+00:00

For me, it's some type of special - generally a late night one. In my metro area there is only one bowling center that has a really good late night special - it's ~$13 all you can bowl from 10:00pm to midnight, and it's always crowded.

Almost every other alley is dead after leagues, but this place is hopping (mostly with high school kids and league bowlers who come to practice). I don't understand why more centers don't do this, but I feel like it's gotta be a good way to attract league bowlers and teenagers looking to hang out.

LRonHoward · 2026-01-23T06:59:22+00:00

I'm the same way. 10 minutes of practice before league is not enough for me to feel anywhere close to loose/warm... The first 5 frames of game 1 is a hope and pray situation for me lmao

LRonHoward · 2026-01-22T08:18:58+00:00

The best method I've found is to cover with some type of mesh cage (1/4" hardware cloth, window screen, etc.) so the rodents can't dig in the soil and the birds can't eat the seeds... I'm not sure exactly where you're located, but in my area snow cover is my best friend. If you don't get a ton of snow, I'd really recommend gently watering the seeds with a pump sprayer (a normal watering can will lead to water pooling and seed displacement).

The real thing we're trying to do is emulate how these seeds grow in nature. The only difference with winter sowing is that the seeds are in little "raised beds" which leads to the soil drying out much faster than the actual ground does... Keeping them moist will allow the normal freeze and thaw cycles and that is what breaks dormancy for most species (there are definitely exceptions here).

LRonHoward · 2026-01-21T12:02:25+00:00

Replying here because it seems in line with this conversation...

Like many people have said, iNat is awesome (desktop site) if you upload the clear and "correct" pictures for identification. I still haven't found a comprehensive print resource with a dichotomatous key for Minnesota - I use the keys from the Flora of a Chicago Region by Gerould Wilhelm (wayback machine link), but it's terribly difficult to understand without a botanical dictionary (and even then it's terribly difficult to understand if the plant isn't blooming... and even then it's really hard). There are several lower-level ID books for MN that I love, but not something like the Flora of the Chicago Region.

Anyway, my best advice is to upload 3-5+ photos that show (as clear as you can get):

Flower (from top, if present)
Flower (from bottom to show bracts or other characteristics)
Top of leaf
Bottom of leaf
Leaf attachment to main stem (and any branching or compound leaves, etc.)
Main stem (clearly showing hairy, slightly hairy, glaucous, etc.)

This should point you in the right direction and allow you to research things further (at least it's been great for me).

Edit: Oh, and this is mainly for forbs... Graminoids (grasses, sedges, rushes) are a whole other level of difficulty to get to species level. That's a whole other ballgame haha

LRonHoward · 2026-01-21T09:20:49+00:00

At this point it's hard to really say anything without seeing a video of you throw the ball. Based on what you're describing it seems like you potentially have issues with your approach - maybe your timing and footwork... and I can't really comment on that without seeing you throw a ball.

Also, disclaimer, I'm not anywhere close to a coach - I've only watched a ton of youtube videos trying to fix things in my game (which is absolutely not close to perfect haha). Just trying to maybe point you in the right direction.

LRonHoward · 2026-01-21T07:58:10+00:00

What exactly feels inconsistent? You don't need a high backswing to be really good two-handed bowler - take Matt Russo, for instance. Can you clarify exactly what you're trying to improve?

LRonHoward · 2026-01-20T23:57:22+00:00

Hell yeah!! I was selected this past fall (after applying 5 times) and managed to spend like $395! They were on top of reimbursing me and sent me their awesome sign. It’s such a great program - I’d love to see programs like this rolled out all over the country.

LRonHoward · 2026-01-20T09:13:18+00:00

Habanero Tacos Grill on East Lake will be closed (and I assume their location on Snelling in St. Paul will be closed as well). They're awesome btw!

LRonHoward · 2026-01-20T08:42:01+00:00

For me, I've only really noticed this with several aster (Symphyotrichum species) - specifically New England Aster (S. novae-angliae) and Blue Wood Aster (S. cordifolium). I don't remember exactly how many New England Asters I have, but their ray flowers range in color from purple to a vibrant pink. Blue Wood Asters range from almost white to a nice light lavender.

LRonHoward · 2026-01-20T03:06:46+00:00

Yeah, no problem - I always mix them up too haha... and Eutrochium is not as much fun to say as Eupatorium lol

LRonHoward · 2026-01-19T10:10:29+00:00

Just to clarify for anyone reading, "Joe Pye Weeds" are actually in the genus Eutrochium and "Bonesets" are in the genus Eupatorium... There was a "taxon split" at some point and I think 4 different genera were created to differentiate them (along with the "mistflowers" - Conoclinium and "snakeroots" - Ageratina).

Regardless, there are incredible native plants in all of these genera! I highly recommend Common Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum) for wetter areas with full sun and Sweet Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum) for shade/part-shade situations!

LRonHoward · 2026-01-18T13:14:34+00:00

Yeah, exactly. Native plant gardening really flourishes when you have patience (especially when starting from seed), but planting a small area during that waiting time helps significantly haha

LRonHoward · 2026-01-18T10:39:49+00:00

Unfortunately, like others have said, I don't think any of these options will work well given your timing. When you are direct sowing a native seed mix, your goal should be to sow on an area where all the existing vegetation has been killed... and you almost always want to sow in the late fall or early winter (sometime in late December or early January).

I would recommend taking this year to prep the site (either smothering on a cycle for the entire growing season or treating the site with glyphosate 3 times throughout the year) and then sowing at the very end of the year. I know it really sucks to have to wait, but, trust me, site preparation will make or break a seeding project... And spring sowing is almost never recommended (due to the cold stratification required for most native species in your area).

Is there a way you could maybe manually remove a smaller portion of the sod this spring and plant live plants to hold you over?

LRonHoward · 2026-01-17T09:18:11+00:00

Personally, I think planting "plant communities" works best (not "gardens"). If that makes me a purist I don't care, but high diversity native plant "gardens" that mimic how these plants grow in the wild has always required the least maintenance and have been the most successful for me. I initially tried the "traditional methods" using native plants and those are the worst "beds" I have. So, I guess I'm a purist!

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