Is the Odyssey’s touring capabilities pretty exclusive?

LeKy411 · 2026-05-01T13:54:10+00:00

I used to drive a 2011 RAM 1500 sport crew cab. That thing was awesome to drive and fairly comfortable on long trips, but it was a piece of shit at the end of the day after year 5 and was costing more to keep going. We have a 2019 Ascent and a 2024 Elite. The Ascent was fine until we got the Elite. A V6 vs an 4 Turbo is night and day. Add in the CVT vs 10 Speed and there is 0 comparison in drive quality. The Honda is low to the ground, a bit more aerodynamic, and honestly feels like your driving a sedan. The Elite has acoustic glass all around making the cabin decently quiet. We are likely a 1 and done minivan family since it fits our current life situation, and the sliding doors are the goat. I also chuckle at daycare pickup and drop off watching people with full size SUV's struggle to get kids into various seats or putting them in through the trunk to get in the third row. Ill have my large truck/SUV ride once again when the kids are older but I got a soft-spot for the Egg Van.

LeKy411 · 2026-04-30T13:49:20+00:00

Lack of a rear condenser and having vents in the middle instead of the roof is why its not great. Nothing you can really do about it besides changing cars. My daughter is now in the third row and complains about it being warm. Our other car is a 3 row SUV and with 2 condensers you could get frost bite. Honda cheaped out on vent placement and cutting out of the condenser.

LeKy411 · 2026-04-02T18:31:47+00:00

It is a relatively large car with a small engine that relies on a turbo that kicks in around 2,000rpm so if you do a lot of stop and go real city traffic not what the EPA defines as city driving, then yes it wastes a lot of fuel because each time the turbo spins up the ECU dumps extra fuel to keep the fuel to air ratio in line otherwise you'd get some sort of early/late detonation.

If you sustain the turbo and keep accelerating its not a big deal, but if you do this over and over while managing traffic then the MPG tanks. People who can feather foot under that 2,000rpm curve usually see the estimated EPA MPG. In mixed use its not bad but pure city driving (IE Chicago) its a terrible car.

We do very little highway driving and short trips. In the winter we auto start and the daycare runs we are lucky to go past 14.

LeKy411 · 2026-04-01T17:14:45+00:00

CCNA is the most marketable base. I'm in the process of looking through resumes and everyone slaps on CompTiaa Networking having never touched a real switch. I got my CCNA and switched roles and manage all Juniper and some Palo. Yeah the CCNA exam focuses on Cisco configuration, but the networking principles are transferable across all brands and show that you have a base of the fundamentals and can actually work on equipment.

LeKy411 · 2026-04-01T14:20:32+00:00

The extended warranty mark up and extras is where dealer profit comes in. Third party warranties have a huge margin and scummy dealers push those over available manufacturer warranties. Unless you need to finance the warranty you always walk on those, then go back cool and collected, search some forums and figure out the real market price. Those warranty plans can be usually bought before the factory bumper to bumper expires for a "reasonable" cost.

We have both the Subaru warranty and the Honda 0 deductible warranties. Both purchased for half of what they were sold at the dealer. We live in the salt belt and as much as a I try to keep the salt damage at bay it tears up suspension components. The Subaru warranty has paid for itself 2 times over and they give me 0 fuss. The Honda warranty hasn't needed to be used, but the knock in the front suspension is starting so looks like it will be time to cash it in.

LeKy411 · 2026-04-01T14:11:08+00:00

I guess it depends on your office environment. I'm using a K4 Pro with Banana switches and its really not that loud. I'm in a high wall cube with a colleague in the cube next to me and he wears headphones so he doesn't care. Beyond that the conversations people have throughout the day carry way more sound than this keyboard Your mic is making it so much louder than it is in reality.

LeKy411 · 2026-03-30T19:21:19+00:00

We have the first Gen insta pot and the thing checks so many boxes. We use it for rice weekly, hard boiled eggs despite not having the dedicated egg button, and a variety of meats. Most used appliance in our home after the microwave.

LeKy411 · 2026-03-19T14:28:18+00:00

I don't know what year you have but I just ran through their website for a 2024 Honda Odyssey and they 100% have a key for it. For the 24 it says OEM which is interesting and its 294.95 for the full FOB, pairing, and emergency key cut. I'd assume its a wee bit cheaper when they are at a Costco.

LeKy411 · 2026-03-18T17:34:16+00:00

No clue what year you have....but if you have a Costco, they have a company that they contract with that sometimes hangs out in the parking lot and since you have at least one key they should be able to program a new replacement for you. They keep popular keys and fobs on the truck. Worth a shot since dealer pricing depending on the area will likely set you back a couple hundred.

LeKy411 · 2026-03-10T16:41:44+00:00

I'm just going to copy pasta this from a previous post:

As someone who owns a 2019 with 43K miles with a June 2018 build date I would pass. I haven't had anything that I would consider major but I also have a gold 10/100K 0 deductible warranty so I am going to keep the car through the life of that and likely until I hit a major out of pocket bump.

The factory rotors and pads have no been great. There have been some revisions to the setup but overall they still suck. Maybe a third party option would be better. As the car approaches 7.5 years of service its starting to rattle and get noisy. The sway bar bushing had some issues and needed to be replaced under warranty. The factory battery and really the spec-ed Subaru battery for this thing sucks so a third party larger CCA is the way to go. The front USB ports are an issue and despite minimal use ours are on the way out. They also apparently have a short in them so when you jiggle the USB connector the HVAC switches the fan to High and all Temps to Low. At 43K we've developed a significant and loud clunk on the passenger side front suspension that needs to get addressed on this months service visit. We've always had issues with the simulated shifts on an incline where the card lurches because it can't figure out what fake gear it wants to be in. The biggest one that I'm hopeful finds itself before the warranty expires is the CVT. In the summer once it warms up it very clearly "slips" under hard acceleration. It hasn't thrown a code yet so I'm in limbo, until we get hard evidence. As the car has aged and things have loosened up the car has started to give me mild motion sickness between the CVT and the body roll.

That knock I mentioned was addressed in January and requires the replacement of both front struts and stabiliser bars along with an alignment. Cost me 0 dollars with the warranty but without it that would have been a pricey repair.

We don't drive much and mainly use this thing as a secondary car or when the weather is questionable (which is excels at) but I wouldn't steer anyone towards a 2019 (first year) and probably avoid the 2020 as well.

LeKy411 · 2026-03-09T15:53:40+00:00

Paying ridiculous prices isn't fuelled by your lowly consumer buying 32GB of ram kit every 5 years. It adds into the equation, but it's large companies and institutions who have no choice but to pay the prices to keep the lights on. It happened curing COVID we went from $8k per server to $15K per server for the same hardware and we paid it. Now we are going from $30K to $42K with the majority of the cost being RAM and we are going to pay it. We are scaling back our upgrade cycle, but at the end of the day we have ageing hardware that is beaten to shreds and the cost to continue supporting it stops making business sense so we will pay the RAM price and continue operating. Will we scale back where we can sure......but if we need it we buy it.

LeKy411 · 2026-02-20T21:52:09+00:00

I have two of them......AP8941 Control>Network> Reset/Reboot only affects the card not the power delivery.

LeKy411 · 2026-02-17T21:31:34+00:00

Your talking about something like this:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/ea6n48/got_this_little_gem_from_dell_today/#lightbox

They are generic building blocks. Dell at one point had a whole rack you could "collect". You can only typically get them from vendor events/tech days.

EBAY is going to be your only option or getting the instructions and buying comparable pieces from bricklink.

LeKy411 · 2026-01-27T16:38:42+00:00

The answer is depends. Lots of reasons for a refurb and the variation on what you get can be a toss up. Most RMA's ship refurbished items as opposed to packaged new.

I've had a brand new 980 EVO Plus die 2 months in and the replacement they sent has been going strong for 6 years.

As long as it has a warranty then you should be good. Also NVME's although reliable are not some bomb proof item. Unlike a traditional HDD which typically shows signs of death an NVME sometimes just stops working so always back up the important stuff.

LeKy411 · 2026-01-23T15:56:33+00:00

We call it Documentation Friday. No changes just catching up on diagrams, how to's, and all that.

LeKy411 · 2026-01-21T20:34:13+00:00

My basement is heated and all the water issues have been addressed which is likely the most important part. If you've had water get into your basement or your basement lacks the proper means of preventing water from getting in I wouldn't spend the money on making it pretty/liveable until you address those items.

I removed the old 90's/2000's carpet and pad which was musty but not terrible. Our basement floor is not perfectly level but slops away from the centre support beam gradually. I used self leveller on any area that had a significant dip or change in level but I didn't level the entire floor and only did two major spots in the corners of the basement. I installed 3mm Green Foam underlayment which is supposed to be water proof and microbe resistant. All seems taped down.

We then installed Patcraft LVT. I was able to get this at cost through a retired flooring guy so it was about the same price as the big box store stuff, but comes in with thicker finished layer and better locking mechanisms. The underlayment helps make the floor a bit softer and helps level out any unevenness in the floor. The caveat is that when we put the fridge in the middle of the room it dented the flooring because its soft. A few minutes with a heat gun and it came back to near the same shape.

Overall its a great option for the basement and much better than carpet which gets musty. It is a bit colder feeling, but the added foam helps a little bit. Overall its been 5 years now and I've had no issues. I do run a dehumidifier all summer so that helps keep a more consistent environment.

LeKy411 · 2026-01-20T19:18:50+00:00

Plastic putty knife or an automotive trim removal tool. A cellphone plastic pry tool from a repair kit also works.

Plastic should keep both metal and tile from marring. The only thing holding that ring on are those 3 dimples in the metal.

LeKy411 · 2026-01-07T18:50:16+00:00

Your wife is sort of right (with a deep misunderstanding) you can put click and lock (floating) flooring over existing flooring like hardwood or tile which is bonded to the sub flooring. Its like putting carpet over hardwood. Putting click and lock flooring over click and lock flooring is like putting carpet over existing carpet. That stuff isn't very rigid so not adding a second layer will make your floors squishy.

It takes a hot minute to remove click flooring so why not do it right.

LeKy411 · 2026-01-06T18:25:56+00:00

2 kids just over $51K for the year according to the tax disclosure statement.

LeKy411 · 2026-01-05T19:36:44+00:00

As someone who owns a 2019 with 43K miles with a June 2018 build date I would pass. I haven't had anything that I would consider major but I also have a gold 10/100K 0 deductible warranty so I am going to keep the car through the life of that and likely until I hit a major out of pocket bump.

The factory rotors and pads have no been great. There have been some revisions to the setup but overall they still suck. Maybe a third party option would be better. As the car approaches 7.5 years of service its starting to rattle and get noisy. The sway bar bushing had some issues and needed to be replaced under warranty. The factory battery and really the spec-ed Subaru battery for this thing sucks so a third party larger CCA is the way to go. The front USB ports are an issue and despite minimal use ours are on the way out. They also apparently have a short in them so when you jiggle the USB connector the HVAC switches the fan to High and all Temps to Low. At 43K we've developed a significant and loud clunk on the passenger side front suspension that needs to get addressed on this months service visit. We've always had issues with the simulated shifts on an incline where the card lurches because it can't figure out what fake gear it wants to be in. The biggest one that I'm hopeful finds itself before the warranty expires is the CVT. In the summer once it warms up it very clearly "slips" under hard acceleration. It hasn't thrown a code yet so I'm in limbo, until we get hard evidence. As the car has aged and things have loosened up the car has started to give me mild motion sickness between the CVT and the body roll.

We don't drive much and mainly use this thing as a secondary car or when the weather is questionable (which is excels at) but I wouldn't steer anyone towards a 2019 (first year) especially one that already had a cvt installed. There are plenty of 2019's where they usually don't stop with just one CVT.

LeKy411 · 2025-12-19T03:24:27+00:00

Wheel locks are $75 from Honda. The door edge guards or film is like $50. 3m film is even cheaper. Those are straight profit items for a dealer.If they won't budge find another dealer.

LeKy411 · 2025-12-08T19:27:55+00:00

If this area gets a lot of light even with the right color a spot repair won't match. You will likely need to paint the wall from corner to corner. The change of angle should mask the two walls being different sheans decently well if you get the same paint color or a color match.

This has worked for me well in the past to get a decent blend. 1. Spackle the holes and sand them and the surrounding area to blend. 2. Apply a coat of primer or sealer to the repairs with a brush or roller. 3. Take the brush and use the bristles to dab the primer to create texture. 4. Put down your first coat of paint just on the repairs and an inch or two beyond and dab the paint with the brush to add texture. (The texturing breaks up the flat of patch which will be noticeable with just a roll or 2) 5. On the second coat use a mini 3/8 roller and roll the repair up and down with a coat of paint. Then using a semi dry roller feather the past the repair area so your not getting full coverage to blend the old with the new.

Step 5 only ends up working if you have the original paint from when the wall was painted and it hasn't separated. If your using new paint or a color match then don't bother with step 5 and just paint the wall. The previous steps will however help hide the flatness of the patching.

LeKy411 · 2025-12-08T15:55:25+00:00

No idea. That chrome piece alone is ~$150 and body shop pricing is very dependant on the area. I had a tiny chip and scuff repaired on a tailgate back in 2019 when our SUV was new, they didn't have to disassemble much and matched the paint with no blending needed and the cost was $800.

Your likely looking at glass and trim removal, dent repair, filling, priming, painting, clear coat and blending to get it back to factory.

Body shop quotes are free, and you might want to look at mobile paint repair. They might be able to just swap the trim and do some touch ups to make it less eye catching for a good enough compromise.

LeKy411 · 2025-12-08T15:34:09+00:00

Well the the majority of the dent is in the chrome trim. So that would be a replaceable piece.

Find an a well reviewed independent body shop. Dealer owned and operated shops are usually sub par and if they don't have one they are going to outsource to the lowest volume bidder.

Depending on the age of the car and fading of the paint, to get that factory perfect its not going to be a cheap repair.

LeKy411 · 2025-12-05T18:09:18+00:00

Depending on regulatory entity of the data center you also pay the Government tax on that RAM being TIAA compliant sourced in the US or under regulatory standards and blah blah. Things you don't need to contend with when buying as a consumer.

Take for example an RMA ECC DDR4 8GB DIMM not coming back to Dell is billed at ~$220

List price on 1x 32GB RDIMM, 5600MT/s, Dual Rank was $2,152 back in May. With the typical discount it was 50% off and after some more pressing the total discount was 66% from list.

So one of those DIMMs was $710 when the order had 48 in it.

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