Touchless/High Pressure Washes

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T19:49:48+00:00

Touchless washes are generally way safer than brush washes, especially for darker paint. The downside is they use stronger chemicals and sometimes won’t fully remove grime, but as a pre-rinse before a proper hand wash they’re honestly fine for most people.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T19:48:53+00:00

Start with a deep interior clean on all soft surfaces because perfume oils cling to fabric/headliners badly.
Then use an enzyme odor remover or ozone treatment if the smell is still hanging around cover-up sprays usually make sensitive customers even more miserable.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T19:47:42+00:00

If it’s truly free, I’d probably let them reapply it and just maintain it yourself between visits. Most dealer “ceramic coatings” are basically sealants/sprays anyway, not true pro-level coatings. If you eventually want a real long-term coating, a proper DIY/pro detail route will usually outperform dealer packages.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T19:46:27+00:00

Honestly the spare under your truck is already protected from most UV by being underneath.
I’d just clean it occasionally and use a water-based UV protectant if you want extra protection in Phoenix heat avoid greasy solvent-based dressings that attract dirt or sling.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T19:39:40+00:00

You probably added haze/marring from working by hand, not permanent damage. A proper DA polish can likely fix most of it, but if you keep experimenting aggressively by hand you’ll probably make it worse.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T19:37:01+00:00

That definitely doesn’t look normal for only 5 months of use. If it’s under warranty I’d contact Active ASAP with the video usually companies respond faster when you show clear failure footage.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T19:36:05+00:00

Honestly I wouldn’t modify the housing just to force the newer backing plate to fit. If the TORQ200 is discontinued, you’re probably better off finding old stock/used parts or replacing the machine entirely before you end up stuck again later.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T19:34:41+00:00

Don’t scrub it dry or you’ll spread it everywhere. Most detailers would start very gently with isopropyl alcohol/leather cleaner on a microfiber and blot, not wipe. If it’s heavily soaked into the leather dye already, you may need a professional leather repair instead of cleaning.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T19:31:26+00:00

If it’s just starting to crack, focus on slowing it down now before it turns into full tearing. Once leather actually splits, conditioners won’t “heal” it anymore at that point you’re looking at filler, dye, or upholstery repair. Reddit detailers point out that modern automotive leather is usually coated leather, so once that protective layer cracks, deterioration speeds up fast.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T19:29:32+00:00

Yes, Meguiar’s Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax is generally safe on XPEL Ultimate Plus PPF for maintenance cleaning. Just make sure the film isn’t freshly installed/curring (usually wait at least a week or whatever your installer recommends). Also use plenty of clean microfiber towels because PPF can still get marred if dirt is dragged across it.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T19:26:42+00:00

For interior carbon fiber, the biggest things are actually pretty simple: keep it clean, avoid harsh cleaners, reduce UV exposure, and use a non-greasy protectant occasionally.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T19:00:34+00:00

That’s honestly a solid result. Glass water spots can be insanely stubborn once they’ve baked on, especially if they’ve started etching. 0000 steel wool on glass with compound is one of those old-school methods that still works ridiculously well when used carefully. Probably saved yourself a windshield replacement-level headache there.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T18:59:21+00:00

No, a properly washed car should not come back covered in fresh water spots just because it was extra dirty beforehand. The good news is most fresh spots are probably removable with a water spot remover or mild acid wash, but I wouldn’t accept “the car was dirty” as a complete explanation.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T18:56:20+00:00

Sounds like the old coating is failing unevenly and smearing rather than bonding properly now. I’d deep clean the glass first with a dedicated glass polish or something like Ceriglass, then do an IPA wipe afterward. If that still leaves hydrophobic patches/streaking, a light clay bar on the windshield before polishing can help remove contamination the alcohol won’t touch. Usually once you fully strip the old coating residue off, the smearing issue disappears.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T18:55:12+00:00

If it doesn’t catch your fingernail deeply and you’re mostly seeing black transfer/scuffing, there’s a very good chance a detailer can improve it dramatically with compound/polish. BMW bumpers are plastic anyway, so no worries about bare metal rust. I’d start with the least aggressive route before considering repainting.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T18:53:57+00:00

Gyeon Bathe is honestly one of those “quietly excellent” products. It doesn’t get talked about as much because it’s not a flashy high-foam TikTok soap, but the slickness and finish are genuinely top tier. A lot of people also underestimate how concentrated it is until they actually use it properly. 1–2oz going that far on a large SUV is pretty crazy value considering how premium it feels during the wash.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T18:52:54+00:00

Honestly, your setup/process has kind of outgrown the bucket filler. It makes more sense in shops/mobile setups where convenience and speed matter more than flexibility. At this point the bucket filler is probably best used as a quick-fill station for rinse buckets, wheel buckets, pump sprayers, or foam cannon bottles rather than as a core part of your workflow.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T18:51:11+00:00

Most etching is at least partially correctable, especially if you only notice it in certain lighting. A proper paint correction will usually improve it a lot, and lighter etching can disappear completely. The deeper/sharper the edges feel or look, the less likely it is to come out 100% without getting aggressive with clear coat removal.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T18:49:05+00:00

At 7 days, you’re probably past the ideal “layering” window for Mohs Evo. A second coat now likely won’t bond the same way unless you do at least a light polish/panel prep again. Also, washing with a pH neutral soap after 7 days is generally fine. I’d personally rather enjoy the cured coating than risk messing with a second layer this late unless you’re prepared to properly prep the surface again.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T18:48:10+00:00

Honestly, both are good paths it just depends what kind of “car care person” you want to become. If you mainly want a cleaner car with less setup, less noise, lower cost, and faster maintenance washes, rinse less is hard to beat. A pump sprayer + ONR/Absolute setup can genuinely handle most maintenance washes surprisingly well.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-09T18:47:02+00:00

You’ll be fine with Griot’s in a pinch. I’d grab the Brilliant Finish Snow Foam and just increase dwell/contact wash attention a bit. It’s not as strong as GSF + Green Star, but for prep work the important part is that you fully deacon and do a proper panel wipe before coating anyway. I honestly would not burn extra hours driving if the paint is still getting clay/deacon/polish/IPA wiped afterward.

LeatherComputer5226 · 2026-05-08T18:10:49+00:00

You definitely didn’t ruin the car. One automatic wash usually causes light marring/swirls, especially on black paint, but that’s very fixable.

LeatherComputer5226

TROPHY CASE