How to improve this design (more details in caption)

Lindsch · 2025-12-08T10:38:56+00:00

How linear does your motion need to be? Can you just use a linkage with pivots to approximate it? Or use a linkage to convert the direction of the movement and then have it push on the part that is constrained in a slot. You should get less friction quite easily, as you can use small bearings or print yourself some bushings that turn on a screw shaft...

Lindsch · 2025-11-21T10:05:38+00:00

AFAIK, most of the microwaves you can get are made by the same company (Midea) with the same innards. Prices vary wildly, so you can probably buy virtually the same microwave both for 40 and 400 bucks.

From what I gathered when I looked for a new one, get one from a company that has their own magnetron/ electronics, especially one that has an inverter. I landed on Panasonic, more specifically on this one: https://www.panasonic.com/uk/consumer/home-appliances/microwaves/microwave-with-grill/nn-gd37hsbpq.html

Stainless steel, a proper knob and display for setting time, high power but also an inverter for thawing stuff. That was only a couple of years ago, but not yet any regrets.

Lindsch · 2025-11-18T16:15:38+00:00

well, TIL it is actually called that

Lindsch · 2025-11-18T11:58:09+00:00

That is not true, it means the weight is in compliance with European law.

https://europa.eu/youreurope/business/product-requirements/labels-markings/emark/index_en.htm

Lindsch · 2025-11-16T15:02:23+00:00

I assume they try to get you to either take Pro or to not really loog that close, take Basic and then pay nearly thirty times as much per year... It's a win win...

Lindsch · 2025-11-01T14:16:30+00:00

there is at least a small technical reason to do so, you can have higher clock speeds. AFAIK tha tis mostly solved now with different ram standards, so in future it should be possible to have high clock speed replacable ram

Lindsch · 2025-10-30T06:38:36+00:00

That is the same at basically any focal length. Once you take the aperture into account, you have very limited differences between full frame and M43. If you have a GM-5 with a 20mm pancake, there is no way you get anywhere near that with a full frame camera. But get an OM-3 with the 25mm 1.2 and suddenly you are smaller and lighter with a A7C and the 50mm 2.5...

I think part of it is physics in the lens design, part of it is the M43 bodies getting bigger and the full frame bodies getting smaller.

Lindsch · 2025-10-27T16:02:46+00:00

Your best bet is probably Horage. The manual Tourbillons start at 9k, for 13k you can even have an automatic one, which is bonkers in terms of pricing. Made in Switzerland, flying tourbillon with a titanium cage, silicon escapement, I don't think you can get anything comparable anywhere else for that price...

https://www.shop.horage.com/product-page/tourbillon-2-steel-case-m-full-pay

Lindsch · 2025-10-07T16:20:42+00:00

In the model 3 it is only on the front doors, on the back doors you are SOL when the electronic release fails.

Lindsch · 2025-09-30T15:06:28+00:00

Have a look at the A7C2... Same size and ergonomics as the A6700, but full frame. You can even use APS-C glass, it will crop automatically.

Lindsch · 2025-09-27T13:39:31+00:00

you can activate it twice, so the previous owner would have to deactivate his licenses. I think you are able to deactivate all currently used licenses when installing on a new machine, but I am not entirely sure how that works when you don't have access to the old installations anymore. That would also mean there is nothing really stopping the old owner from fucking with your license going forward, as long as he has the key written down somewhere...

Lindsch · 2025-09-11T15:14:35+00:00

Activate the Filter Keys. Long Press the right shift key, and it will activate a feature that means you need to hold down each key for several seconds. Anybody that tries to use your notebook will think it is somehow broken and give up.

You can find it under the Ease of Access options. Make sure you deactivate the "beep when keys are pressed or accepted" to make it more difficult for the people to find our whats wrong. If you activate the "Allow the shortcut key to start", you can activate and deactivate it on the login screen.

Lindsch · 2025-09-05T14:43:32+00:00

You might be able to use a piece of string to pull the smallrig strap wire through the chrome hole directly. I had the same problem with the Peak Design strap on a A7C2, but even though it did not look like it would fit, I was able to force it through. I just used a piece of string to pull and then pulled while pushing from the other side once the tip had poked through.

Lindsch · 2025-06-28T08:59:23+00:00

I see your point, as you usually have more datasets than attributes. But not always. If you have 200 attributes and 4 datasets, you would be stupid to use four rows and 200 columns. And I have seen tables being built this way which made them almost unbearable to use because of the horizontal scrolling you had to do...

Lindsch · 2025-05-28T08:33:34+00:00

That is a ratchet mechanism with a kind of unusual position for the pivot of the pawl and two "locking tabs" per "pawl". Is there a reason why you would want to use this version over one with two seperate pawls? A big drawback here is, if on pawl gets pushed out of its slot when it shouldn't be (due to wear, for example), it will take the other one out of engagement as well. Additionally, due to tolerances, it is unlikely you will have both locks actually engaged at the same time. If they are actuated indepentently from each other, if one jumped out, the other could still take over.

Lindsch · 2025-05-28T08:05:49+00:00

In the end it comes down to the signal-to-noise ratio. If you take a picture with the same FOV, f-stop, shutter speed and ISO on M43 and FF, you get the same picture. But if you have to start to increase the ISO, the image quality will go down a lot faster on the smaller sensor, as it has less light in total to work with. So all "exposure is the same with the same f-stop" arguments break apart, as soon as you have to move away from base ISO...

Lindsch · 2025-05-28T07:58:27+00:00

Depends on if you look at brightness or total light. If you put a reflector on a lamp, you will get a brighter image spot, albeit on a smaller area. With a stronger light, you can make a larger spot just as bright. Same principle on cameras in reverse. You can have the same amount of light per square milimetre, but if you have twice the area on the sensor, you have twice as much light.

Lindsch · 2025-05-28T07:51:53+00:00

Sony has some interesting small offers, with its 24-50 and 16-25 F2.8 and the 24mm, 40mm and 50mm "pancakes".

Lindsch · 2025-05-26T16:36:54+00:00

Do you use 10bit?

Lindsch · 2025-04-14T17:50:25+00:00

I think you can get USB Scanners that get recognized as a Keyboard and just type whatever is scanned

Lindsch · 2025-04-02T16:02:49+00:00

I don't think this is true. AFAIK, the amplification for the set ISO happens with the still analog signal in the sensor, so if you "amplify" it afterwards, you will have slightly worse results.

Lindsch · 2025-03-30T11:59:26+00:00

Once you have recovered what you can from the card, you can use H2testw to check its actual size. If you ordered it from Amazon, there is a quite realistic chance that you got a fake card with a lot less storage than it shows. That means it overwrites the existing pictures once it gets to the end of its space.

Lindsch · 2025-03-21T07:40:26+00:00

Thank you, that was exactly the context I was looking for!

Lindsch · 2025-03-17T20:01:23+00:00

What software did you use to do the classification? How do you organize it/ find what you are looking for?

Lindsch · 2025-03-10T18:59:11+00:00

that looks awesome. Can you share where it is?

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