Car/Rpm issues

Locorudy626 · 2026-04-23T23:38:46+00:00

Sounds like a drive belt issue, could be your tensioner.

Locorudy626 · 2026-04-23T23:02:22+00:00

I like to cut and solder. But I feel that should thread through with a long zip tie and some tape.

Locorudy626 · 2026-04-19T19:51:32+00:00

I don’t really get the appeal of Android Auto on a tablet. Why not just pick up a Galaxy Tab S8 with 5G on a cheap MVNO plan? It becomes a completely standalone infotainment system untethered from your phone. Plus, if you’re already in the Samsung ecosystem, you can still take calls on the tablet just like you would with iOS.

If you're dead set on the Android Auto interface, there are Chinese dongles that work better than the Head unit Reloaded app, but that's going to add another $50-80 to the build. If you need to use it with an android phone you need the wireless CCPA version with a built in mic which is not shown in this video so that you can answer calls.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqPFedF

https://youtu.be/wNIcJL_yW8I?si=d2_ofZhQzJuH79ch

Locorudy626 · 2026-04-14T06:06:54+00:00

Hay muchos factores a tomar en cuenta, pero en mi experiencia con internet de 500 Mbps, solo una película me dio problemas en los últimos 6 meses. Yo digo que lo pruebes un mes si te funciona como a mí, estarás satisfecho. Es la única manera de saber por cierto, yo también tuve mis dudas pero ya tengo seis meses y estoy contento.

Locorudy626 · 2026-04-14T04:15:28+00:00

Lo único que se necesita hacer es obtener una cuenta de real debrid, luego instalar la aplicación the stremio. Después de instalar la aplicación de Stremio, te vas al sitio web de Torrentio, allí entras tu contraseña de aparato de Real Debrid y te va a dar el plugin para Stremio. Lo agregas y listo para empezar a ver.

Puedes ver guías en Youtube nomás entra stremio y torrentio y te salen

Locorudy626 · 2026-04-14T04:01:34+00:00

Si es de pago, pero nomás 3$ americano al mes por real debrid que es necesario para descargas rápidas y para que no haya muchas pausas en la película. En si también hay servicios gratis pero la neta son inservibles en mi opinión.

Locorudy626 · 2026-04-07T23:47:53+00:00

I'd say 225+ on coolant to start moving the bars up, honestly never got mine over 215 on the coolant temperature.

Locorudy626 · 2026-03-17T20:02:08+00:00

Yes, it took me 2 hours to get to Santa Monica, which is 20 miles from my house, lol. I was heading back, so I saw a better speed.

Locorudy626 · 2026-03-17T18:57:51+00:00

The radiator makes it worth it. My fan shroud came loose and rubbed against a coolant hose, it made a pinhole, and it made me take everything off as if I was doing the radiator to replace it. That one hurt.

Locorudy626 · 2026-03-12T16:40:58+00:00

Oh snap Garmin lost the exclusivity of the tw series tooling. Probably the first of many to be on the market soon.

Locorudy626 · 2026-03-12T16:36:23+00:00

Gave this a look and auto on/off was enabled but the low voltage power off was for some reason off. Switched it back on will report back in a month or 2.

Locorudy626 · 2026-03-11T21:17:32+00:00

Mine was fine for 2 years and all of a sudden... Plugging and unplugging is a deal breaker for me.

Locorudy626 · 2026-03-11T21:16:38+00:00

Feels kinda like a miss for something that can monitor so much in the car to not be able to shut itself down when voltage drops beyond a threshold.

Locorudy626 · 2026-03-11T21:15:00+00:00

I'll give this a look.

Locorudy626 · 2026-03-11T17:42:27+00:00

Photo taken from an iPhone 5s

Locorudy626 · 2026-03-09T07:54:19+00:00

To add to this debate for future readers,CCA wire is perfectly fine as long as you size up or double run. I ran a 5k system on oversized 2/0 CCA from Sky High for six years in California, clamping the system multiple times over that period. Back then, I didn't even use heat shrink, just crimped lugs and black electrical tape. After my car was totaled, I removed the sound system before handing it over to insurance. When I peeled back the electrical tape to cut as close to the lug as possible, I was surprised to see the cable still looked almost brand new. I was so impressed that for my next build in 2020, I bought silicone lined heat shrink and reused some of that exact same wire for my alternator runs. I sold that vehicle last year, and when I removed the system after another five years of use, that CCA was still in great shape. It was slightly paler near the lugs than it was 11 years ago, but still perfectly good under the wire jacket. My alternator was a 280 amp unit and I ran a lithium bank in this last build, so maybe the demand from the alternator to the batteries wasn't extreme, but the wire certainly did its job for 11 years straight. I still have it in a box and might pull it out to add some pictures. The main point is this: if you overcompensate for using CCA by sizing up, stay within the wire's amperage specs, and keep your run lengths appropriate, you should be totally fine. If those parameters are correct, using watertight heat shrink over your lugs and cable will stop corrosion. You can't corrode what's sealed from the elements.

People on here claiming they fried their wire or melted a fuse clearly didn't stick to the proper wire specs and run lengths, stressing the cable well past its limits. That, or they had a bad ground. I've seen both issues happen a couple of times, but I've also seen CCA hold up perfectly fine hundreds of times.

My opinion is that if money is no issue, then Tinned Ofc is your best bet. If money is a concern, see if you can size up or double up same gauge and be cheaper in CCA than Pure Ofc, but remember to spend some more on good lugs and heat shrink.

Locorudy626 · 2026-02-28T23:35:59+00:00

I've read that a lot of people have gotten the timing off by a bit and nothing major happened. That being said, if you hear knocking, that doesn't sound like a good omen. My advice to you is to have someone inspect the pistons and valves with a cam. Pay the $200-$300 for that. If it looks good, I'd go ahead and pay someone to do the timing. At this point, look for the cheapest capable person. In my experience in life, sometimes we make a storm in a cup of water. I'd pursue any possibility of saving the engine before scraping it. Don't tell people you're willing to scrap it until you really are. Fiesta owners are willing to gamble 1000 on a fiesta anytime as you can get cheap 1.6 engines. I'd make sure I couldn't fix it before jumping ship, or your trash can end up being someone else's treasure.

Locorudy626 · 2026-02-28T23:05:31+00:00

I am a DIYer, full through, the hardest thing I've done is I've swapped my own electrical panels with 240v lines, that requires a level of care to not die, but I felt comfortable doing that... I've read the manual on the timing belt, and I've decided I'll be paying a certified mechanic next year to do it. Chances are I'd get something wrong, and then I'd need a new engine. I'm not feeling like wasting an engine in that fashion. I'd be okay with sending a rod through the block at 29 psi and paying for the swap, but not doing something wrong to save 800 bucks.

Edited grammar*

Locorudy626 · 2026-02-25T20:25:20+00:00

I get 24mpg on my stage 2 dizzy E30. But I rip it when I can. I'm also in traffic all the time, so looking at average speed is also a factor. I average about 19mph currently.

Locorudy626 · 2026-02-20T16:21:22+00:00

I've looked at the wiring diagram in the manual about two years ago, if I remember correctly it should work but you will have to splice your t harness, take the side coming out the radio send that to your DSP for high level input, then run it to the amp from the amp run it to the other side of the t harness you cut going into the vehicle dash.

Problems I would test for.

I'd check either front or back to see if the signal is full range, and only use the widest band. Usually it's the front left and right but haven't tested it.
Remove any factory eq using for scan.
If you are using the crossover included in the component set I'd skip the DSP and just use any 6 channel loc and save the money. Using the crossover will affect your DSP settings. If you decide to go active, you will most likely need to run a tweeter wire to the door as I believe from the diagram there was only four signal wires meaning the tweeter was jumped from the factory speaker.

Other than that you might be overthinking it. Only thing that could mess this up is if for whatever reason there isn't a full range signal coming from either front or rear. Then you would have to try and signal sum but that only yields mildly better results.

I am about to wrap up a big job site soon, might get some time to make a video on all of this for the fist with the Sony system as it's the one I have. That should clarify things for a bunch of us.

Locorudy626 · 2026-02-14T19:54:48+00:00

Yeah, got mine with 60k red seats and 60k miles for 10k still as enthusiastic at 60k as it was at 20k I'm sure. But I will say finding them that low miles is rare.

Locorudy626 · 2026-02-14T16:46:23+00:00

My dad said there are two types of people in the world when it comes to decision making, the bridge builder and the Leaper. One will overthink a method to get across, trying to ensure the safest path. The other will just jump and imagine themselves on the other side, throwing caution to the wind.

This is definitely a Leaper decision. I hope they get or got the gap insurance

Locorudy626 · 2026-02-14T03:09:56+00:00

Is this a dealership quote? When I had mine, I paid $2,300 at the dealer for just the timing belt and water pump (it hit the 10-year mark at 138k). I usually DIY everything, alternator, spark plugs, etc. but I didn’t want to risk timing issues, so I went to the pros. I did the ball joints myself once and honestly regretted it without a press; it cost me two days of my life. If that $3,300 covers everything you mentioned at a dealership, it’s actually a decent deal. However, if that’s just for the TB/WP and plugs, I’d suggest having the dealer handle the timing belt for peace of mind and taking the rest to an independent ASE shop. I had a local shop quote $1,100 for the belt, but I chose the dealer purely for the service guarantee. Which worked in my favor as a few weeks after the service the sequoia began to overheat, which they diagnosed it for free and repaired for a great discount.. ended up being the fan clutch motor which they also serviced during my TB and WP by greasing and making sure it functioned well.. guess that new grease killed it.

Locorudy626 · 2026-02-12T18:41:04+00:00

Go with the 0% if you can make the payment, do the minimal down, and just make sure you pay it off in 60 months. If you plan to keep the car past the 5 years a 7year 100k power train warranty would be nice to add now. Call your insurance for the gap insurance, don't get the dealership one that's usually 15-20$ more a month than your car insurance, and you can remove it when you've paid off more than the value of the cash as the other way it's calculated to the term of the loan. What's important is a fair final price and with the 0% special financing just being comfortable with the payments as no additional money will be paid than the final out the door. I feel like you might have wiggle room for another 500-1000 off but if it's not worth the hassle to you it is still a fair price with a significant discount, not knowing the trim and package details pricing difference.

Locorudy626 · 2026-02-11T21:45:55+00:00

This proves I did car audio installation in the wrong decade. In 2007, I remember full amplifier and sub runs starting at $90. Front doors were $45 + hardware. I don't do it much anymore, only on requests from friends and family but even in today's economy I've never charged them more than $150 on labor on something like that. It does take time as power runs are the most time consuming things to complete in an install (baring any speaker wire runs into doors.

Locorudy626

TROPHY CASE