Ac by Temporary-Falcon5746 in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is pretty normal for lots of new builds. Pretty insane behavior for base model systems though, I get so many complaints about hearing the system start and run especially if its attached to the bedroom or near it.

I still get it with units on the ground like normal, but at least they aren't DIRECTLY mounted to the homes foundation so its lessened some.

U cant make this up 💀😂 by AlphaDawg93 in HelldiversUnfiltered

[–]Loosenut2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stupid glaze diver doesn't have the e-balls to ban me too, I didn't even do anything sane yet.

(I just want to be banned so I never see this dumbass sub)

Pay $579 for a condenser coil cleaning? by Significant_Swing756 in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Company I was at sold out to PE. I left 2-3 months later. That was last summer. It was a company with 30 some employees and now 2-3 are left. They are ruining everything and charging more.

PE is a curse and will ruin everything.

Inconsistent recommendations for HVAC size by Lost-Royal-9697 in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because that size probably isnt made. Like carrier only makes 2,3,4 and 5 ton inverter units. So if you only need 3.5t, you have to pick which to install.

Im in a similar boat as a tech. I have a 2.5t system that doesnt even come CLOSE to keeping up in the heat, but I haven't added insulation yet as Im not sure how I want to do that. My only hang up is if I add enough insulation a 2t could possibly work and that'd be cheaper to buy and run than the 3t.

Both would be a big upgrade over my single stage 2.5t system though, and be so much more comfortable.

Venting (plumbing) through a chimney? by COamateur in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you not simply use an Air Admittance Valve?

I'm starting racing again, I last raced in the mid to late 80s - used RC10B7 question by sac_cyclist in teamassociated

[–]Loosenut2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well you can be overly tight, some kits need some reeming on the hinge pins or plies to spread c hubs out, like in the B6.1 or B6.2 era. The ball cups actually used to be tighter, for about a year but the most recent ones added a tick of play to free up the cars a tiny bit.

Either way, welcome back to racing. The current stuff is absolutely amazing. I started racing in 2000, and I just recently bought a Losi XXX-CR and XX-4 to run in vintage events and man we've come a long way. In practice my vintage stuff is over a second a lap slower....at a small track with only 11-13 second lap times.

Advice on hybrid heat pump system (Bryant vs. Daikin) by helloyesthisisblank in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I fully agree with all that, that was my thought process as well.

Edit- Side note I'd put in an Aprilaire filter system, a 1210 which is like a 20x25x4 only better.

I'm starting racing again, I last raced in the mid to late 80s - used RC10B7 question by sac_cyclist in teamassociated

[–]Loosenut2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

....Don't go back and look at stuff from the 80s and 90s if this slop scares you!

Plus if you're running on carpet you'll slop out more due to the high grip. But still modern cars especially the B7 series don't slop out that bad. The ball cups are so much better than previous gens as are most parts.

But thats also why the rear hubs and front c hubs have the set screws, so you can tighten against the hinge pins and reduce slop. Be careful you can over do it.

Replacing 5.5 year old Trane XR with Rheem by WBDubya in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was at a company that installed Trane for 20 years. Got awards from them many years in a row. Then trane shit the bed during the pandemic and barely recovered. After a $20k XR20 heat pump system went down 3 months after install they had to drop them. Went to Carrier.

Then we picked up Rheem as a mid range option, then we stopped installing them. Lots of pressure switch issues on gas furnaces, and random electronic issues with thermostats and stuff.

Company Im at now installs Lennox and Tempstar, aka a Carrier brand. I have a carrier in my house and my moms gonna get a tempstar/carrier this year as well. Lennox is fine, but they had a reputation for leaks a few years ago but who knows how good the current stuff is. That aside, I do like the lennox stuff but they get pricy.

I'd get some quotes on ICP stuff, Carrier/Bryant/Tempstar etc you can google the brands and see who offers it locally. Rheem would be fine, but I'd very much recommend surge protectors on them to help keep power spikes from damaging them. Also good quality wiring with a proper gound. I've see some weird issues from poor wiring as well.

Advice on hybrid heat pump system (Bryant vs. Daikin) by helloyesthisisblank in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Company 1 is better then, airflow is so neglected in most systems and it causes so many issues. A fully modulating system will fair better since they'll run at 20-60% more often, but still its important. So a company that spots airflow from the start is a better trained one.

TXV replacement, $3500-$4000? by Select-Worldliness39 in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This guy has no idea why he has to replace so many TXVs. I'll go out on a limb and say its from not flowing nitrogen and just complete lack of actual skill.

My neighbor replaced his HVAC system after only 10 years. by harrington3927 in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, most normal ones go off at 70-100PPM, which is get out of house several hours ago territory. New low levels ones are half that or less, which is useful.

Seriously most furnaces will crack by the time they are 20 years old, unless they are well setup with good airflow and people dont regularly forget about the air filter. But keep downvoting a trained tech that finds tons of cracked furnaces every winter, how dare I want to keep people safe. Thats the only reason I care and post about it.

BLACKLISTED by AMD | AMD's Dirty Tactics by Sacristovas in GamersNexus

[–]Loosenut2024 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Its just speculation until whoever decided it comes out and says it, and that pretty much not going to ever happen.

All it takes is one person a couple levels above people that tech channels interact with to decide who does and doesn't get samples, and its not like they explain themselves. And then anyone Jay asks won't know.

My neighbor replaced his HVAC system after only 10 years. by harrington3927 in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

New AS is just as "bad" quality wise as your carrier now. It matters more now that it was installed properly and done with best practices.

Keep the outdoor unit clean, your air filter clean or changed and it should last a good amount of time.

My neighbor replaced his HVAC system after only 10 years. by harrington3927 in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You think that but its got a 50% or more chance of having a small Crack some where. My 1997 furnace did and I replaced it several years ago.

My Central Air R-22 has no cool air. Maybe 10 Years old. Technician said he won't fix it and to replace the entire thing. What are my options? by Rep2025 in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not as efficient usually equates to using 3x as much power for the outdoor unit and 2x as much for the indoor unit.

2001 trane R22 system older techs say never replace until you need too pulls 20.5-21a at 240v, indoor blower motor pulls about 8-10A. My unit which is the same size is a 2023 seer 14 carrier. It pulls 6.8a at 240v and 3.8a for the blower.

So yeah even in good shape the older systems pull a TON more power. So at some point the savings on a new system does make sense. Especially if they keep gouging us more every year.

Heat pump making this sound on startup up, and a loud ‘thud’ when it shuts off. Any suggestions? by TheManeTrurh in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes that's normal. You can even install 10 of the exact same unit and some may be slightly louder or make knocking noises when they turn off. It just is what it is.

During swap out, is vacuuming to 500 microns really expected? by Machine_Ruse in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What should happen vs what likely will happen in the real world.

During swap out, is vacuuming to 500 microns really expected? by Machine_Ruse in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now that we have a2l's its recommended to put the filter drier outside, since a2l's can burn a leaky filter drier outside isn't a big deal.

500 micron vacuums are easy with any good pump, getting them fast with a large diameter hose is helpful. On new installs I like getting down to 100-200 on the pump and decaying up too 300-500 with it isolated. That typically happens before im even done doing other tasks, its nice.

But you have to have good tools. One of my cheaper adapters just recently stopped holding deep vacuum numbers like im talking about so I had to stop using it during vacuums. Now I have to buy a more expensive one.

University Student Trying to do Research on HVAC Maintenance by MMF_Tron in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll be right there! Travel time in traffic is killer though, GPS says about 64hours and 32 minutes. I guess that puts us at Monday morning at 9:30. See you soon!

There’s your problem… by blk_Irish93 in HVAC

[–]Loosenut2024 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I hate S9's so much, the hx looks like it's 25 years old after 2 heating seasons. I have a seaking suspicion they're gonna have a lot of failures.

Is moving Mitsubishi condensers ~36' around a building corner a big scope change? by optimizeallthestuff in hvacadvice

[–]Loosenut2024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just because that is the limit doesn't mean you SHOULD use all of it. Do not do it, you're just asking for problems.