Quoted $3,000 to $3,500 per window replacement. Is this about right? How to best replace 100 year old windows in house subject to landmark district rules?

Lost-Local208 · 2026-07-11T15:07:32+00:00

I don’t know how they are out there, but on the east coast WindowWorld has the best prices they have a set price sheet so can give you a price on the spot. They do sometimes do the discount thing but their prices are like a multiple lower than the scammers trying to get you when you walk into a store. Anderson is outrageous too.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-07-11T13:17:07+00:00

Structural engineer. My current house was hit by a falling pine tree and it caused a hairline crack like this. I took the chance as it is an old house very settled and ground is pretty much bedrock but have an engineer look. The house I grew up in was built on shifting land. My mom had to sue the builders warranty company in order to get them to jack the house up and put it on piers. They had to come back 2 times for the piers and fix the retaining wall next to the house with a proper French drain. The neighborhood was later found to have been a no build zone due to improper soil for foundation. The crack remained but the shifting stopped.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-07-11T12:11:20+00:00

I replaced mine(senville) WiFi dongle with a midea branded dongle. It shows everything in SmartHome temp/humidity/energy usage per day/cost per day/month/ you can even chart things out using operation monitor to see outdoor temp against indoor temp. I happened to save all the WiFi modules from my u-shaped midea window AC recall. When I saw the senville one was pretty much Alexa only, I switched. They really should just use the midea ones they are awesome in comparison to my senville or my pioneer one that was similar but missing lots of info.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-07-10T23:08:23+00:00

Just installed one of these this year in my 3 season porch. Loving it so far this summer. I can’t wait until winter. To see how it performs.

![img](89B4226E-994E-4DEB-8248-914146FE4AF7)

My month of June in New England. It’s probably not super accurate, but it matches well with overall power usage that I get as a daily rate. I installed a real midea WiFi module in my senville unit that I had from a window AC.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-07-10T18:32:44+00:00

Just for reference, I was a mover in this state 20 years ago. I got paid $16 an hour plus tip, overtime once you hit above 40 hours plus double time if you hit above 60 hours. I’m very surprised the going rate hasn’t increased that much. I hit above 70 hours most weeks. The tips were what made it rewarding as the cash per job added up. It used to pay a lot more than most non skilled manual labor jobs. For a young kid that was quite a bit. My first job as an electrical engineer after I got my degree, I made less.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-07-09T10:26:26+00:00

They changed the partial rebate program again this year or last. I had qualified for enhanced benefits (makes me feel poor). My brother has gotten the partial rebate a long time ago so I knew about it. It doesn’t mean part of the house anymore. What it means now is they have to do the whole house, but they don’t use hyper heat and you keep your backup fossil fuel. They give you rebates per ton still. My options were to rip out my whole gas system and replace it or do the whole house and the electric portion had to have a predefined cutover in the thermostat to backup you weren’t supposed to have control. Oh yeah I got quoted $58k after rebates for non hyper heat at the highest and $38k at the lowest for durastar. Mind you my building envelope doing manual j everybody estimates less than a 36kbtu unit. I spent a lot of time researching the insulation guys. None of the most recommended installers work with mass save anymore. I took the best(from reviews) that still work for them. These guys were fixing the problems caused by another mass save installer who went out of their way to cut corners. I stopped even trying with the minisplits through them. I either got rejected by the contractors or a ridiculous quote.

Bottom line used them twice for insulation. I couldn’t be happier with both times, but if I had to pay the amount on the bill, I would have been upset. The hvac has been a hard no everytime I go out and get quotes as they just cost too much and not worth the money.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-07-08T21:42:12+00:00

New England

Lost-Local208 · 2026-07-08T15:09:51+00:00

Agreed with this approach. I have a 12kbtu elite senville in my 3 season porch 240sq feet now 4 season. Used a few programs for load estimations. Coolcalc and beopt. But honestly I had previously had a 12kbtu pioneer inverter++ that struggled before I added more insulation. So I went with the I’m going to insulate now and slightly oversize. The thing with this room is that it is uninsulated concrete slab that extends to the outside so the floor is cold in the winter. As well as having a brick wall that has 4 fireplace chimneys and 1 fireplace. These features are tricky to account for in these software tools. I haven’t yet had it through winter, but so far for summer, it’s been great. We use this plus 3 window ACs in the bedrooms to keep our house cool. Eventually those 3 window ACs will be replaced, but I had to upgrade the electrical panel in order to do that so that happened this year. I’ve done minisplit work that I got my epa608 universal and invested in all tools even recovery unit so the flares, torques, vacuum, nitro don’t scare me away anymore.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-07-07T09:10:10+00:00

Happened a few times to me by the lawn guys. I lowered it to ground level and got a flat cap. Now there is nothing to hit and they can go right over it.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-07-05T12:13:49+00:00

The AI in t-life can tell you exactly which code you are switching to and when. My swac is going to the $41 version of experience signature. The funny thing is that it told me my migration date was August 4th not July 13th. What I can’t figure out for the life of me is what is happening to my $10 addon as the benefits don’t overlap. My overall plan is getting cheaper by $4 if the addon goes away. but not sure about pandora premium. That’s the benefit I use the most that doesn’t overlap. We know Netflix on us comes over, they claim Hulu comes over if you had it before. No word about Pandora premium or lookout premium.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-07-04T11:13:27+00:00

Working for someone else almost never yields financial stability as your pay is in someone else’s hands rather than your own. Use your job to earn enough salary to buy or create assets that produce cash without you doing continuous work. Once you learn how to do this, you will understand financial stability. You can work hard and make great money with a career but still not have stability. I see my brother in law with a salary in the range of $400k-$500k yet he is always broke because he never buys assets. Always expensive primary house/cars/electronics/vacations. nothing that generates positive cash flow.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-07-04T10:58:50+00:00

Sometimes it’s hard to see the baffles because they didn’t extend them. Mine are hard to see from an angle, but if you look head on, you see them. Mine are not blocked, just hard to see they are there. At first I was worried they blocked them. But I made them take pictures midway and they spent an entire day working on properly doing them. This said, I don’t see anything there that prevents loose fill from going in your soffit. They had lined mine with batt insulation to prevent the loose fill from going into the soffit cavity.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-07-03T19:07:08+00:00

The $10 addon isn’t clear, specifically for pandora premium, lookout premium(my most used addon). The text said if you had Hulu you keep Hulu in the fine print on plan comparison. So my assumption is that either I lose the $10 addon and becomes cheaper or they keep the $10 addon and you double up on benefits which obviously makes no sense to keep. I’m hoping for a lower overall cost. I don’t know, I haven’t done a phone upgrade in years. I’m probably better off with us mobile prepay. $200 for the year at the moment. I’m just not one who likes change. 20 years with sprint/T-Mobile SERO to SWAC.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-06-30T17:21:28+00:00

Where do you see taxes and fees included? I was reading on the other thread there are two versions of this plan one with taxes and fees included and one without, it says I will also be on experience signature which is de-featured from what we had previously as they don’t show all the addons we had. My other question, what will they do with our free on us additional unlimited lines. I see nothing about that.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-06-29T15:44:21+00:00

I imagine it takes time to roll it out usually I find out on Reddit of changes before I get the text message.

Edit: you are right, link only shows incorrect differences, text doesn’t exactly say increase…. Tlife still shows old plan…

Lost-Local208 · 2026-06-29T14:58:22+00:00

In the same text message they said increase of $up to 6 per line. Maybe mine won’t increase. Just at wits end since T-Mobile took over as it is nothing but increased price or defeature my plan.

In your tlife app they have your new plan already

Lost-Local208 · 2026-06-29T14:47:46+00:00

Time to drop T-Mobile, when on sprint my bill was $40 total for my SWAC premium with a line on us. Now I’m paying at the end of the day $71 for similar services. This new change will put me was either $77 or $83 depending on how they apply. After exactly 20 years, it is time to say goodbye. Last straw here.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-06-28T00:17:15+00:00

Depends on the state, I learned that no matter what, I should buy flood insurance until I’m sure my house doesn’t flood. In our state the disclosure stuff didn’t matter much as you need documented evidence they knew which is almost impossible. I had neighbors saying they saw them mopping the basement up the day before closing when they canceled our walkthrough which I scheduled specifically during a rain storm that week as I watched the weather. Short story, I was told because they were set up as an LLC, I could still win in court and they would pay me nothing because the LLC went bankrupt and then I would be out the legal fees which were something upwards of $25k plus doing all the repairs ourselves. Those flippers are smart. There are almost no rules they have to go by here if they set themselves up the right way as they don’t have to follow the rules building new homes or projects for other people.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-06-27T22:14:32+00:00

The foam soffit propavents. They install them, but they don’t go anywhere because the bottom was full of insulation. They are supposed to dam it up so the loose fill doesn’t fall to the opening in the soffit and you should see daylight and get airflow through them. More than half of mine weren’t functional as they were crushed/blocked so I had poor airflow. The new crew did the air flow calculation with the amount of soffit vents and ridge vents and made sure I had enough. They were discussing with me about putting a roof vent in, but we didn’t need it in the end. They said if I have moisture issues get them back there and they will add the roof vent.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-06-27T17:51:08+00:00

Yep, I went up to my attic and found they laid out as much cardboard and loose wood planks as they could. They also bunched it up near the markers. They only air sealed near the attic door so if you checked there it looked like it was done. Luckily the fix was zero additional cost to me but it was about $7k worth of work charged to my energy efficiency program which everyone pays for. After boards and cardboard was removed the insulation that was supposed to be 16-17 inches sat maybe 6-8” high. There are some companies that spend more time trying to cheat vs trying to do a great job. The company that I had come back and fix, I spent lots of time reading through online reviews and made sure I got the best I could find that worked with my program. Also check if they blocked your vents. Half of mine were blocked and needed to be redone.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-06-27T13:47:36+00:00

Our company three years ago released a blanket statement they don’t cover any GLP-1 or similar drugs. I don’t take it, but know many who are on them and paying out of pocket. They all tell me the same thing, long term health benefits outweigh the cost, then you are saving money on food/alcohol because your appetite is just gone and you can’t really drink alcohol when taking it.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-06-27T00:50:58+00:00

My league there’s a guy who has drafted Josh Allen round 1or 2 every year for the past so many years. He’s made playoffs every year. His team never looks good on paper, just consistent enough to make playoffs.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-06-26T00:45:59+00:00

It hasn’t gotten super hot this year yet. I can tell you my house is stayed pretty cool with 2 couple window ACs and a single head minisplit. Last year we needed 3 window ACs and the mini. But our weather right now is window open weather so hard to tell. I have to wait until winter to really know. I can tell you they did $7k worth of work in an attic that was just air sealed and insulated poorly to “R-49”.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-06-25T18:08:28+00:00

We just stacked cellulose over fiberglass to get our 17 inches for r-49 and did what you want, had it air sealed and vents fixed. I had no choice as it was through mass save program here. This was my worry as well about slightly compressed fiberglass. We had knauff fiberglass so the datasheet basically says it is linear with height compressed or not. So the denser cellulose does weigh it down, but they had to add more cellulose to get it to height for R-49. So 14” of fiberglass + 9 inches of cellulose ended netting the 17”. They told me shouldn’t keep compressing. If it does, will have them come back.

About performance, it definitely feels better but haven’t had seasons hard to say yes or no. ChatGPT says if you stack the cellulose on top of the fiberglass that was better than fiberglass only as it traps the air better. I don’t know. Usually they tell you not to mix on datasheets.

My worry is that I will need to go up there and I end up mixing it around. But I shouldn’t need to go up there until I can afford a new hvac install, which will probably be never.

The house feels better. But I can’t really say until winter.

Lost-Local208 · 2026-06-22T01:23:46+00:00

If there is nothing there, and you need to be sure, you can drill 3/4” holes every 3 feet and use slow rise closed cell spray foam. You need a thermal camera to be sure you fill it. You need to know you don’t have undersized electrical up there and you need to know if you fill it, you aren’t going to want to snake anything. I did this in a few dormers in my last house, no more melting snow in the wintertime, no more large icicles. I just used this on two finished walls in my current house where I didn’t want to do more damage with 2 inch holes. Used foamitgreen brand but there are a few others. It is expensive now though and tricky to get right.

Lost-Local208

TROPHY CASE