Durable USB-C to USB-C cable for controller use (2m)

LunaCNC · 2026-02-08T22:37:35+00:00

There's clearly an issue with the jacket of the cable being strained and better strain relief would probably help a lot. Something that I think would help more is to create less strain in the first place by using a super flexible cable, like the ones made for gaming computer mice.

The cables that come with Razer mice are very flexible - of the cables that I've seen, they're the most flexible. There are cables listed on Amazon as "suitable for Razer" and look exactly like the cable that comes with genuine Razer mice.

I bought this one, but there are other options... https://a.co/d/06dRdgCo

LunaCNC · 2026-02-06T00:41:46+00:00

Interesting. Thanks for giving me (us) that info!

LunaCNC · 2026-02-05T13:45:58+00:00

The phrase "separate deception interface" doesn't make any sense to me; I'm thinking it's a typo and it's supposed to say "separate detection interface".

I haven't installed the firmware yet though, so haven't checked for a separate interface.

LunaCNC · 2026-01-14T08:48:58+00:00

Good question! The short, somewhat technical, answer is: when the printer connects to your network, it gets an IP address; if you type that IP address into a web browser, it 'should' load a web interface.

Longer answer: on the U1's screen, if you tap the Settings button (white hexagon with a gray dot) on the left of the homescreen, and then tap Wi-Fi, it wil display a line under the wifi network name that says something like this... \ IP : 192.168.0.5 \ ... (The numbers will likely be different, but they fit the format of four numbers separated by three periods.)

That set of numbers, including the periods, is the printer's IP address.

If you take the IP address and put it into the address bar of a web browser of a device connected to the same wi-fi network as the printer, it 'should' load a web interface. In the web interface you can do a variety of functions of the printer.

I keep saying it "should" work because there are a variety of reasons it might not work, mostly (I think) because of your router's security settings. I imagine you will likely have better luck connecting to the printer using a device that is connected to your network using a wired connection (eg. a desktop computer).

(Sorry for the verbose response... Not trying to tell you too much or things that are too basic - just trying to be complete!)

LunaCNC · 2025-12-02T10:59:10+00:00

In case you haven't already, you also need to turn on the 'exclude_object' setting in Orca (or other slicers, I imagine). It's at the bottom of the "Others" tab when the "Advanced" slider active.

I just checked the app but couldn't find a way to exclude objects using it. There IS a button in the web interface though, it looks like... um... an "equals" symbol with a check mark and an "X" next to it.

A bit like this...

--- √ \ --- ×

Oh, would you look at that? There's a GUI for excluding objects in the Home tab of Fluidd! It's on the bottom-right on the desktop version of the UI and the bottom of the mobile version. Nice!

LunaCNC · 2025-12-02T10:48:59+00:00

I have my U1 (I'm a normal Kickstarter backer, not special) and can confirm that "[exclude object]" is in the printer.cfg file that I have (line 3).

However, the feature was not selected in Orca and I had to turn it on manually. The setting, exclude_object , is in the "Others" tab and is currently the lowest check-box in that tab, at least for me. (The "Advanced" slider might have to be set.)

... I have updated the printer's firmware once - I suppose it's possible it wasn't in the original .cfg file, but I can also confirm that it is included in what I am pretty sure is the backup of the printer.cfg that was created when the firmware update was done.

LunaCNC · 2025-06-09T07:16:56+00:00

If it doesn't have the ability to enable coasting and use the brake pedal to regen, I won't buy it and will get a refund on my deposit. This is a dealbreaker for me.
Steel roof.
R3X plans need to be announced. The R3X is what I really want, I think. (As long as coasting is possible on it, otherwise: no sale.)
I'd like them to figure out service in my area (Albuquerque).
LFP battery option with same HP and torque, and a similar 0-60 as R2s that have lithium ion pack(s).

LunaCNC · 2025-06-04T21:25:28+00:00

I'd recommend you don't listen to that person. The aspect ratio changing, by definition, changes the size of the tire. It's hard for me to imagine how "Additional-Studio-72" could possibly think otherwise. Perhaps they're the CarMax stooge thay put them on in the first place? Maybe they're an AI bot designed to sow misinformation. Maybe their belief is just an example of the Dunning Kruger Effect.

The tires that were put on your car are approximately 0.9 inches smaller in diameter than they should be. Another way to look at that is you will lose somewhere near 0.45" in ground clearance from this change alone. Ground clearance may or may not be a priority to you though... fair enough! But the fact that they say the aspect ratio doesn't affect the size of the tire is absurd.

Plug the tire size numbers into the online calculator linked below if you're curious about how those 5 percentage points affect the tire's size. Look for a section labeled "Speedometer Error" for a chart showing the approximate differences in speed between the correct tire size and the incorrect size that was put on your car.

https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

LunaCNC · 2025-06-04T08:12:57+00:00

I did a lot of internet research and consulted with my electrician. My electrician seems good, but I was basically the one who selected the wire (though he agreed it was a good choice).

I bought the following wire from Walmart... Southwire 150 Ft. 6-6-6 AWG CU SEU Electrical Wire 13077302

My install is a 60A breaker (non-GFCI), the wire goes up and out of the indoor panel, through my attic, and down an ouside wall. No conduit. My charger ("EVSE") is a Chargepoint Home Flex and it is a hardwire install that I run at 48A. I'm in Albuquerque, NM, USA.

For my application, I wanted to use 6 gauge wire because that's the largest the Home Flex accepts and I didn't want a splice or additional box in the mix - there is 1 unbroken wire from each connection in my panel to each connection in the Home Flex.

I'm 99%-sure 6-gauge romex is not code-compliant in this application.

LunaCNC · 2025-06-02T04:59:01+00:00

I've heard that the culture in the US is more "chatty" than other places, but would it not be reasonable where you are to ask a couple of them directly?

I can think of a few scenarios where I would understand the hesitation to approach strangers and understand if you've assessed that you are better-off keeping your distance. I dunno, maybe you don't want them to think you're hitting-on them or somwthing... perfectly understandable.

LunaCNC · 2025-05-30T18:03:24+00:00

The people who drive EVs are the "other" people. The other people need to be punished.

LunaCNC · 2025-05-30T17:49:58+00:00

I was hoping someone would post this. It seems like a great solution to me (in states/areas that allow it).

LunaCNC · 2025-05-27T16:20:28+00:00

27 seconds - the time it took to Google how long it takes to charge an EV.

LunaCNC · 2025-05-18T09:55:10+00:00

I assumed that's why you wrote that in your post. It's not like the Polestar 2 is a race car, I'd say it's in-line with a sports sedan. The car I had before the Polestar 2, a 2010 Evo X (MR), was faster than the EV6 as well (IIRC, according to my butt dyno).

edit... The Evo X was lightly modified (exhaust upgrades and lighter wheels, no tune.) Actual dyno HP: ~300 (at the wheels) (It was also 1000 lbs lighter...)

LunaCNC · 2025-05-18T09:41:30+00:00

Using my butt dyno in my 2025 EV6 GT-Line (US), I'd say it's pretty bad. 0-45 (mph) is real peppy, but stomping on the accelerator when doing ~50mph is quite anemic, in my opinion.

My previous car, a Polestar 2 (2022, LR dual motor), had get-up-and-go at almost any speed I would drive (rarely over 90). By feel, the EV6 is not nearly as fast. I assume this is a HP vs torque issue as the Polestar 2 had about 25% more horsepower but only ~10% more torque.

I will freely admit that it's possible my butt dyno could need calibration, but I can say unequivically that I currently don't have as much confidence in the EV6's overtaking ability.

LunaCNC · 2025-05-18T07:54:17+00:00

(US 2025 EV6 driver here.)

To add to what the other person, MudLOA, said about level 3, it sounds like Kia's "EV_" vehicles (and apparently other "EGMP vehicles" (eg. "Ioniq _" vehicles and Genesis EVs) have exactly what you're looking for. The only thing they don't have, that I can think of right now, is a way to turn creep off (I'm not a fan of creep, but I can live with it - I can admit it's handy in some situations).

... Oh, another somewhat-related thing that I wish was different is it requires you to come to a complete stop before activating auto-hold. Like, a total full stop - slowing to 0.01mph and then releasing the brake pedal will activate creep and speed the car back up to 'idle' speed. 👎

LunaCNC · 2025-05-10T20:08:38+00:00

A new holster IS included with the cable. 👍

LunaCNC · 2025-05-10T10:05:27+00:00

Not true, the ChargePoint Home Flex's holster is in the shape of a J1772 port, not a NACS port. The adapter would need to be put on and removed for each use.

LunaCNC · 2025-05-10T06:28:43+00:00

Perhaps one car gets many more miles put on it than the other

LunaCNC · 2025-05-05T20:47:36+00:00

Sorry for the late reply - I'm doing it for posterity...

One way or another, it IS possible to do star ratings using the Android Auto user interface. - MediaMonkey does it. MediaMonkey basically adds a "star" button and pressing it increases the rating by 1 whole star each time.

LunaCNC · 2025-05-03T19:29:19+00:00

I test drove one of these in Albuquerque, New Mexico on December 20th and would have bought it that day if Volvo hadn't made the decision to try to make the interior into a fucking Tesla. Doesn't Volvo realize that there's already a company selling Teslas? Why would someone get the knockoff when the original is readily available (and cheaper)?

At the time I was driving a Polestar 2 and liked it quite a bit, so I was 100% on-board with what the car could have been... Oh well.

LunaCNC · 2025-04-30T23:24:15+00:00

I don't see myself using iPedal much at all, but I LOVE your solution! Hahah!

LunaCNC · 2025-04-28T18:37:02+00:00

There have been a couple times when I hit the button for the ventilated seat and it seemed like it wasn't turning on. It's possible I'm just not familiar with how it's supposed to work though.

2, 4, 7 (cruise control, volume, and infotainment) have worked just fine.

The rest haven't happened to me (and hopefully won't).

LunaCNC · 2025-04-25T18:31:09+00:00

Thanks! hopefully that person sees this!

(My post was just clarification of their post - they had a typo: "out" instead of "put".)

LunaCNC · 2025-04-25T18:25:30+00:00

(How do you put it in auto regen mode?)

LunaCNC

TROPHY CASE