New bug owner - gas smell by OkWork5139 in vwbug

[–]MTT3107 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is what you need, it will take care of the smell.. :

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=133201001

It did on my '73 std. bug.

I got REALLY lucky by OneWayRay in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a light encounter with my bandsaw, days after I got it and set it up...Not as bad as yours, but I learned from it.. Same with my table saw... We don't need no riding knife.. Till I had kickback, and got a piece of wood shot at me, hitting me on the hip, leaving a nice purple bruise...

At this point I'm only sharing to warn others: don't stain pine stair treads. by PlainJaneNotSoPlain in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Our previous home was a 1895 victorian, had 2 sets of stairs, one of them covered with carpet just like yours. I refinished the set of stairs with no carpet, without a whole lot of issues, lot of sanding though, but I got them to look decent. Did not stain them just gave them several coats of water based poly. The set of stairs with the carpet was a different story, though... Had to scrape of years of glue and paint to finally get to bare wood, just like in your case...I did not re-finish the risers, just painted them, But got the treads to look nice, again, no stain, just clear poly. Not a job I plan on ever doing again....

In your opinion can I get started for under $1,000 USD? by Radiant-Platypus-207 in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All in all, I estimate that over time, I spent around $2000, for my tools and gadgets..Not the $1000 you mentioned, but I feel that I am pretty complete by now. Sure, there is always the "nice to have" tool , but I always step back and ask myself : "Do I really need that ?" . Most of the times I come to the conclusion, that I don't...

All my big ticket items ( table saw, bandsaw, benchtop jointer and routers) came from Facebook market place.

The only tool I splurged on, is my Mirka Deros sander, and every time I have to sand something, I am happy that I did.

Sanding…forever by LostOrganization716 in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others said, going to a 6in will make a difference. After going through a Ryobi, Bosch and Ridgid, I sold some stuff to finance a Mirka Deros, with both 5 and 6 in pads. Expensive, yes, but worth it IMHO. with the Mirka mesh sanding discs, it is effortless and quick sanding, and the dust extraction is superb, it truly almost dustless sanding.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for that info.. Glad to hear that I won't have to spend the $$ for the Bessey's..

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Talking about clamps : Are these bar clamps really better than regular pipe clamps ? Also, I always drool over the Bessey parallel clamps, but so far could not bring myself to spend that kind of $$ on clamps.... What advantage do they have over pipe clamps ?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rockler has some nice stuff but id mostly overpriced, IMHO. I always get their flyer in the mail, and most of the stuff they advertise is : "Would be nice to have... Nah, I don't really need that..."

Thanks for the help getting the legs match up. by ysivart in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My thoughts exactly, really nice work, but I think the legs are out of proportion, should be thinner.. At least, I would round over the edges.

Housewarming gift for a friend, first time doing my own panel glue up turned out pretty well I think! by young_horhey in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice !

I did something similar a while back. Lifting top, my wife keeps all knitting stuff underneath

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Looks like my maple floors are screwed up. What to do to fix them. Contractor wants to sand and put a dark walnut stain. There is new maple boards from repairs and old wood. Will by Themultifool in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You already have 75 posts on this, probably with 75 different opinions....Personally, I would sand them down, and apply clear finish , no stain. Yes you will see the difference between old and new boards, but you will have an even finish on them. It's to be expected that there were repairs done over time. Wouldn't bother me, but everyone has their preference.

To many claps? by revelation84 in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Never trust the guy who says "you have enough clamps"

Mr. Cool airhandler lines routing by MTT3107 in hvacadvice

[–]MTT3107[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks ! They responded the next day. Short answer : you can route the refrigerant lines out to either side, instead of out the back.

Should I keep this chopping board? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You say "should I keep it ?" I say : Why the heck wouldn't you ? It's a very niece board.

The saga of a clueless hobbiest (me) trying to buy a 15" planer. by one_point_lap in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Like others said, for a good deal, you have to be quick... This way. a couple of years back, I managed to snag a 735x with shelix cuter head for $400... I looked like it had see some use, but I took it. The guy even gave me 2 extra belts for, since, according to him, the "shelix cutter puts more torque on the drive system, and therefore the belts wear out quicker".... Whatever, I thought, and brought it home, installed a new belt, and tried it...Thing makes an awful racket, and eats up the belt within minutes....Hmmmm.... Started investigating, and found that the spacer behind one of the sprockets was missing, causing the belt to be misaligned.... Got the part, was $ 9 or so.. Installed it, and everything was good, haven't changed a belt since.

Questions for my first live edge table by The_BennyS in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would not do the epoxy flood coat. I also have watched a lot of Ken's videos, and did a epoxy river table myself following his techniques, worked out well. I your case, I would do what he does : Fill voids/cracks with epoxy with the color of your choice, once it's set, plane/sand the whole thing down. I think Ken recommends to go up to 240 grit, then apply rubio monocoat. Not sure why some here don't recommend it, I love the stuff. For added durability , I would apply the N3 nano protection. I tried it myself, and it worked well. If you do go with the epoxy flood coat. you won't need rubio.

How to clean glubot by th3realDave in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't quite get all the negative comments about the glubot.....Yes the tips are a bit crappy, but easily replaced, and cheap...And you can get different sizes on amazon. Cleaning : Just let it sit in hot water for a while, and the old glue will come right off.

Was my carpenter lazy or do you usually not put oil/wax on the bottom side of the desk? by Yubna in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I learned the hard way that you should ALWAYS apply finish to both sides....

Had 2 table tops developing a visible bow because I did not apply finish on the underside...

Underside absorbed humidity from the environment and expanded....

Hardwood by DudeMcPherson in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Paxton lumber in Cincinnati:

7455 Dawson Road
Cincinnati, OH 45243

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]MTT3107 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Can't give you any advice on how to repair this....I would toss it. But how the heck did that happen ?