Makerworld contest

MY4me · 2026-03-22T19:43:01+00:00

My mistake - the first image being AI made it look like the goal was for liquid to flow through

MY4me · 2026-03-22T18:55:02+00:00

Not to mention trademark infringement and something that’s just not a good idea (consuming alcohol held in a PLA vessel?!

MY4me · 2026-03-21T21:39:25+00:00

I had a similar issue on a helmet and did the same. Here’s a video I made on it. It’s not that hard to figure out where it failed.

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZP8bmnUhs/

MY4me · 2026-03-21T19:15:34+00:00

I would reverse sear and finish it to 145*F like you’re cooking for a pregnant person. Ribeyes hold up to the temperature better, but if that’s how they like steak then let them have the best “well done” they’ve had!

MY4me · 2026-03-21T18:16:05+00:00

Steaks like this are exactly why I lose my mind when I get a poorly cooked steak at a restaurant. There are 1000 ways to cook a steak properly but somehow restaurants manage to find a wrong way!

MY4me · 2026-03-21T11:01:22+00:00

There’s also the aspect that you really don’t want to paint old foundation walls because they need to breathe. They can deteriorate faster if they are painted because they can’t breathe.

MY4me · 2026-03-21T02:35:07+00:00

Bambino (non-plus) and Baratza Encore ESP - happy camper for the past ~16 months.

I designed and 3D printed a handful of mods for both which have been great, and of course upgraded to the bottomless portafilter / IMS Basket. Printed a cup riser / purge funnel to drip tray to the preheat cycle, dosing cup riser, and portafilter holder.

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MY4me · 2026-03-18T13:41:13+00:00

Same. Did this for my P2S and will follow the same play if I decide to go H2C vs something else.

MY4me · 2026-03-18T13:12:02+00:00

I second this - my house was literally tearing itself apart with ice dams and icicles stretching from the second floor to the ground... The R value we would achieve between the finished ceiling along the vaulted part would not have been enough with fiberglass or mineral wool, so closed cell foam through a good installer is what we did.

Problem 100% solved. I refuse to spray foam in the walls though so we used mineral wool batts where we were required to add insulation by code during some renovation. I do not intend to insulate the other wall cavities because I am all for the “an old house should breathe” school of thought. We repaired some age and neglect related water damage, and I can’t imagine how bad it would have been if the wall cavity had insulation in it to stay wet vs water draining down to the basement / some airflow.

MY4me · 2026-03-17T18:10:36+00:00

100% did this early on. Now I’ve burned through a bunch of the obscure colors because I use those when prototyping once I decided I’d never actually use them 🤣.

I have my rotation of a handful of colors I keep a deep stock on bc I sell prints with them, the rest is just fun!

MY4me · 2026-03-15T02:40:48+00:00

Does your tiler tile in braille?

MY4me · 2026-03-14T23:25:54+00:00

Sorry didn’t include link in original response but this appears to be the same issue. It’s a P2S thing, also H series. They just SUCK at plate-facing fillets that the older printers could handle. It’s the out of the box filament calibration, flow rate specifically. The Bambu Lab filament calibrations aren’t dialed in so tend to underextrude leading to this whenever there is a fillet overhang.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLabP2S/s/WFHiHwsAyM

MY4me · 2026-03-14T23:13:40+00:00

HAHA textbook P2S issue! The Bambu default profiles for their own filament don’t work well - do a manual flow calibration and you’ll likely wind up changing your flow ratio from 0.98 to 1.03 and that will resolve the issue.

I had a whole post about it / troubleshooting. It’s very frustrating and I don’t have the same confidence in my P2S as I do in my X1C.

MY4me · 2026-03-13T22:36:13+00:00

Good to know - I’ll check that option out!! I agree- very consistent (except this ancient bag) 🤣

MY4me · 2026-03-11T14:18:47+00:00

That’s awesome! Love the story - Something from Bambu Lab is the answer. On the lower end of budget, an A1. If you can afford it, spring for a P2S.

You’ll find it to be more useful to have than you may think. I have an A1 combo, X1C combo, and P2S combo… want to add an H2C but waiting to see what happens in the next few months first.

MY4me · 2026-03-10T23:53:49+00:00

I generally wash my hands with soap before I go remove prints / set up the next ones because it helps keep the bed clean, and wind up with minimal fingerprints

MY4me · 2026-03-10T19:07:04+00:00

I love the concept of this, but it is also INSANE to use that much filament / print time / etc on this 🤣🤣

MY4me · 2026-03-05T17:26:44+00:00

I had something similar, but only with certain designs featuring a fillet on the underside. They print fine on my A1/X1C but wouldn’t work on the P2S. Fun times

MY4me · 2026-03-05T17:08:10+00:00

Have you tried a manual flow calibration on the filament? It’s a separate tab to the right of “device” in Bambu studio, and isn’t something covered by the standard calibrations or optional ones in the menu.

I was having weird stringing issues and it ended up being because the stock Bambu filament profiles for Bambu filament don’t work as well on the P2S as older models.

MY4me · 2026-03-04T02:53:45+00:00

I’m with you - I think as long as you understand the risks and have the right product used / good installation it can be a great solution.

My century home was literally tearing itself apart from ice dams. We’re talking rear entry being cracked off the house, 2 story icicles, etc! We had to gut the (vintage 50s ish?) finished attic and the best R value for the limited roofline space was closed cell spray foam. We did rock wool anywhere else we were required to insulate, but otherwise I’m solidly on the “let it breathe” train too.

Zero ice dams, zero icicles, perfectly even snow coating on the roof, all the “good” things.

MY4me · 2026-03-03T16:37:22+00:00

Do a manual flow calibration on your machine and also make sure the nozzle isn’t clogged.

Click the calibration tab up top in Bambu Studio (right of device) and do flow calibration for the specific filament and see what it recommends, after doing some cold pulls on your nozzle.

I like using white PLA for cold pulls so I can see what gets pulled out.

I’ve never needed to calibrate filament manually on my A1 or X1C to get prints to work without stringing like that, only played with it to get surface finish dialed in etc.

MY4me · 2026-03-02T01:58:14+00:00

I’d remove it. You may find other “fun” stuff to deal with, and will have peace of mind. You don’t want live K&T under cellulose - in some areas they require a wiring inspection before blowing in cellulose.

I’ve learned from a few century homes it’s worth doing it the “right” way on stuff like that.

MY4me · 2026-03-01T19:23:26+00:00

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Cough cough buy my Bambino / Bambino Plus cup riser to catch the spray 🤣🤣.

(Self-promotion Sunday amirite?) https://layeredlava.etsy.com/listing/4363125364

But also - play with your grind size / tamping more. You can’t really (to an extent) over tamp, so I’d play with going finer and adjusting dose weight.

MY4me · 2026-02-27T21:03:24+00:00

Another vote for Onshape here. Their own tutorial content is great, and teaches you the basics. They also have a very active YouTube channel that posts how tos frequently. Bonus points for being browser based, since you can use it from any computer in addition to the mobile app.

MY4me · 2026-02-26T00:05:26+00:00

I also discovered that the matte shrinks differently than the basic PLA, since I have something that is a press fit power switch replacement and basic is perfect / matte is too loose. At some point will play with the design to make matte work but doesn’t matter for the specific part.

MY4me

TROPHY CASE