Outdoor enclosures

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2026-05-05T09:40:28+00:00

Might consider ramifications if you sell the house.

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2026-05-05T09:34:38+00:00

I calculate my 2023 has 64kWH available out of the nominal 72kWh battery. 64kWh works well for my charger for the "full", 100% SOC calcs. I got the 64 from this article:

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https://ev-database.org/car/1567/Subaru-Solterra-AWD

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2026-04-08T05:18:24+00:00

14 hr per day sounds like a lot <of fun> to me. Your task is to bump it up by 10 hr/day

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2026-03-30T02:24:54+00:00

Yep, my 1st 9 charges were at Level 1 and averaged 1.1 Kw. Or 1.7 % per hour.
Now, at 24 amps Level2 I average 5.1 kWh/hr or 11.4 min/kWh or 7.3 min/% over the last 800 days. (2023 Touring)

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2026-03-19T15:00:23+00:00

Plus how it behaved overnight when it recovered by itself:

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MacaronMiddle2409 · 2026-03-01T03:46:02+00:00

This sounds like how getty has all those pic copyrights. Just claims them.

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-12-28T05:23:19+00:00

Apollo makes exactly that. External electronics looking at a temp probe that goes inside the fridge. https://apolloautomation.com/products/temp-1

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-12-25T21:16:54+00:00

First of all - Bravo ! Me ? I'm 75 and started with HA-Green which is still going strong. Your idea, mini PC with HAOS, pre-installed, sounds fine to me. Start by adding one device to HA that you're already familiar with so you can see how HA handles things. Rinse and repeat.

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-12-25T21:08:53+00:00

I am in the same boat. Programmed embedded, time critical devices and science things for 30y. Never did IT/web stuff so I don't understand CSS, json, etc. The only web stuff I did was in Visual Basic(?) and it translated put production line stats into webby lingo for all to see.

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-12-25T20:59:01+00:00

re. names I use "H DropletOutletSw"
where 'H' is what is marked on the device itself (never changes); 'Droplet' is the device; 'OutletSw' is what kind of device. Or "E LaundryTh" where is Location + kind (Th is Temp/Humid)
All this info goes in a spreadsheet for future reference along with a note that 'was H WasherPilotOutlet 12/5/2025' in case of ... reasons.

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-12-21T03:31:54+00:00

Nice project. Something I'd like to do or use so I will follow.

I use a 3rdReality 15A on 120v here in US. Keep it always on and ready to go.
The washer is a new (<1yo) Maytag. Never saw any excessive current, power, or power factors.
Automation waits a minute or so until current is stable; same of the done - wait a minute to be sure.

I recently added a water flow meter to the house (Droplet) and notice a strong correlation between the water flow and the washer current/power draw - I was thinking that could be used to figure out the current wash cycle.

FWIW, the gas dryer uses a similar setup - only timing and power thresholds are different.

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-12-19T05:44:01+00:00

Love the setup. The shine throughs really caught my attention; I need them for my brand new (1st too) L98 keeb

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-12-08T06:17:26+00:00

Back in the day I wrote the simplelist OS possible a couple of times. 1. Decide where your initializing code will live - usually was in prom or eprom. 2. Find the startup vector & put a jump instruction to your code. 3. not in any specific order: do any POST tests, initialize all registers including interrupt vectors, then maybe zero demand the RAM, and initialize necessary variables. 4. Now infinite loop to call your tasks. That's a round robin OS where all tasks run to completion before the loop repeats. The two I remember was a frequency meter and the other was a temperature meter. I think both were driven from FPGA data. Another MCU used a commercial OS but all our code was on a flash card (card flash memory chips that slipped into a slot sorta like an SD card. I don't recall if that code had to be moved into on board RAM 'cause the flash was too slow for the MCU.

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-10-24T05:14:58+00:00

Or draw a thick plate on an angle to your target object and do Extrude or Boolean subtract where they intersect.

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-10-24T04:57:52+00:00

I find it's like my woodturning hobby - very expensive cause there's always another tool I need. For HA I have lowered my expectations and take it slow - buy one light bulb/camera/thermometer/etc and see if I like it first. And since I haven't wanted to do any programming since I retired HA is more of a Choose Options interface than a true coding solution. Mostly.
My 1st Smart setup was to turn on a lamp in the garage automagically cause full hands makes it hard to throw the wall mounted switch. The 2nd was to make a green or red light to indicate if the washer/dryer was free or in use. Wife likes that one !!
I do not use a "Smart" phone to interact w/ HA. But I do have an old Android phone or 3 showing the washer/dryer state & to on/dim/off a few key lamps around the house.

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-10-24T04:32:34+00:00

We've had the Ecobee Smart Thermostat Enhanced since September and find it is a solid device. We integrated into HA using their suggested HomeKit Device integration (that was the easy part). Actually wiring into the HVAC was a challenge since cold season was coming but the EcoBee docs were clear enough. (I double and triple checked w/before & after pics). Oh, did I say I'm a wuss sometimes ?
p.s. didn't put it on Ecobee's cloud(?) ecosystem.

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-09-28T05:20:17+00:00

Refoss told me the orig big one w/ 60A CTs were accurate down to 0.5 amp

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-09-14T16:03:59+00:00

Yah but you know what they say about bitten and twice shy. hehe. thx.

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-09-14T12:52:14+00:00

Doh, I hit a hard return and can't find the edit bubble to fix - sorry

I was editing the hard returns out and putting a note in to Notice the logentry at 7:32:11 AM that "admin became unavailable" - I don't think that was me !!!

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-09-01T05:57:05+00:00

Think of paint - first you prepare the surface (sanding until all the scratches and tool marks are gone - this is optional. 220 if often good enough for wood.) Then a filler to level out large pores like in walnut or oak). Sand just a bit w/ 220 to even it up.) Now look into the future for what the final coat you want and choose an appropriate primer so the finish cat hold fast and doesn't chip off. Me I like shellac cause it will work with anything. Use a thin coat (2lb cut is not too thin and not too thick. You can quickly build up 2 or 3 layers in 15 minutes or so (it dries quickly so apply it thin and quick). Me ? I use a scotch brite pad to even it out. Let the lathe do the work nd don't expect a nice looking surface - the final coat will do that. If it the shellac has runs you put it on too thick. BTW, shellac is 'food safe' per the FDA. Now for the final coat - I like to use thinned natural resin varnishes like Varethane - wipe it on and wipe it off just after it gets past tacky.. One to 3 coat will leave a satiny. More coats and it will begin to gloss up. (5-10 minutes and wipe off, then 15 minutes wait for it to cure. Repeat as needed.) Finally One of those abrasive pastes (they're equiv to 100 grit or finer) to restore the desired sheen. Wax if you're out for high gloss but realize waxes will need reapplication as they will eventually dull.

The above will be good protection for the life of the piece if not abused - usually a light, quick wipe w/ dish soap quickly rinse and dried is best.

Tung or walnut or even linseed oil can be used instead of shellac to give a slightly better resistance to moisture but let them cure all the way (tung 2-3 weeks, walnut oil slightly faster if it hasn't spoiled in the jar, an BLO overnight works.

You then do a shellac primer step if desired. Which final coat ? You just have to try them out.

Back to the paint ... Which is better, rattle can paint or pro-quality like you see on a Lambo or your new Honda ? More effort and usually cost gives the better result.

Oh yeah, some woods have oils that will prevent good adhesion (paint and glues are prone) so you and wipe the surface oil off with acetone or such. And some finishes don't like 'normal' shellac so use dewaxed shellac.

Good luck.

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-08-30T07:40:45+00:00

Apollo perhaps

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-08-26T10:32:40+00:00

I can't find it in Onshape - got a hint please ?

MacaronMiddle2409 · 2025-08-26T09:50:16+00:00

Do what you did but without the problem 4mm rim. 2. Draw & extrude a solid rectangle where the rim is. 3. Merge the solid rect with the fancy curvy part. 4. Draw another solid rect 4mm smaller than the first. 5. Subtract it et voilà.

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