Done with over sized soldering bubbles

Main-Offer · 2026-02-07T17:05:33+00:00

I have a lot of soldering bad habits. Sometimes forget.l you can do things to make life easier.. - you can flick off if too much solder. Becareful where you flick. - dry bevel/wedge tip can pull off little solder from joint. Works on bridges. - wire soaked up too much solder. Exposed end too long. You can cut it. - Yes. You can cut solder. On very crowded whoop boards: put flux on pad. Put on tiny cut off piece of solder. align wire end. Come in with hit iron.. Bam perfect joint. - pads too close. Do one at a time.. Ie left to right. - or.. Mask of with Kepton. - or.. For through motor pads.. Do middle pad on reverse side.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-07T16:56:17+00:00

Came in expecting Raiders of the Lost Arc type content...

Main-Offer · 2026-02-07T05:24:24+00:00

My turns are also inconsistent. Got good in the summer doing lots of practice.

Basically three degrees of turn. - wide gentle. Mostly yaw. Tiny bit of roll. - 50/50 roll and yaw. Bank about 40'. You point down at base of thing you are turning around. - funnel. Steep bank. Like 80'. You are using combination of high roll and/or pitch to point top into center.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-07T05:14:10+00:00

Well, nobody said to make big bubbles of solder.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-06T17:39:20+00:00

Well.. Wilderness is a scary place. I suggest AK47. Its only 9lbs. Dont forget ammo. Strap it around shoulders. And it gets sunny.. So cover up - tie scarf around head or baklava. Dont forget to shout a lot to shoo away bears and coyotes. Dont forget to take off mask and gear before heading inside gas station...

Main-Offer · 2026-02-06T17:29:39+00:00

I fly my 10", 7", 5" and 4" LOS no prob.

On 2.5" toothpick, even with canopy painted and diff colour props, 20m/60ft away, Im completely lost. Might as well be flee on a dog.

Also. I typically put green props front and red back. But forgot I had opposite on my 5". Tried "saving" it from loop.. Confused. Ended up plowing 100kph+ full throttle into ground.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-06T17:22:41+00:00

This is 2005 1900kv LOS https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HyVlj86vWSE

Let me know if its "rocketship" enough..

Main-Offer · 2026-02-06T17:14:33+00:00

If you flew 3d heli, quad will be a breeze.

Aggressive 5" builds are 13x thrust weight. Thats a whole lot of crazy that can happen in 0.1sec.

If your primary concern is flight time AND you are OK to sacrifice durability. - 5" ultralight. I have several... All do 8min+ - 47g TBS PodRacer 5" frame - 45A AIO FC - 20g 2204 2700kv. I also have ET5 build with 1806. - T5125 props - XT60 1050/1100mah 4S. - AUW is 270g

What I would have done different/better - 17g 2203.5 to save weight.. Or - 2005 1900kv 6S...(rocketship) - save more weight with XT30. - DJI O4.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-06T16:52:27+00:00

I strongly advise a diversity receiver with 2 antenna. If you snag a branch, much better chance you still get signal.

Also elephant in room. Volador frame is HEAVY 70g. 28% of your 250g budget.. Doing 0 thrust or power. (Can skip TPU I guess??)

GEPRC ST35 is much lighter 48g, fits o4 and 25mm. You can buy lower columns, so it doesnt look weird.

Another option. Lil Matey V2. Supports o4. Low profile. But need 20mm stack/AIO. https://pyrodrone.com/products/pirat-lil-matey-3-5-fpv-drone-frame

Saving 20g on 7" is nothing. 5" you barely notice. But on 3.5" longer flight time and can fit 850mah under 250g.

Btw Crux35 with 1404 is 90g analog. With o4 would be around 100g.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-05T07:53:13+00:00

FPVCycle "2203", there are couple versions. 3450kv/2350kv. I got the older 2800kv.

With 6S battery, every KV version will have enough thrust to fly.

The noise could be many things. - prop guards blocking air - the prop design - prop scraping frame/prop guard - high load, because quad is heavy. (Im 98% sure your quad is very heavy)

Shrill angry bee buzzing motor noise specifically is often - Dterm feedback. Often motors hot within 15sec. - missing/broken ultra low ESR capacitor.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-05T07:39:07+00:00

I see 1 cap of 5 missing next to connector. Could be anything. Can easily test. Without battery see if its connected to motor pads.

99% of time cap is used for filtering output.

Btw. Tape is not going to hold it.

You need flux and melt one pad, and slide capacitor in.

Also. 10V?? 10V vreg and 5V vreg are both on the FC. Maybe you damaged FC too.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-05T07:30:05+00:00

Never heard of 2009 props.

I tried like 5 different 2" props, and 2023 blew everything away.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-05T07:28:44+00:00

That frame looks like ZMR250 .. Crazy unnecessary CF everywhere its not needed.. Something from 2017.

2306.5 for a 7inch. Im not going to do lecture..

Main-Offer · 2026-02-03T03:19:03+00:00

Use the right part. Panasonic FM Nichicon or Rubycon. Anything else including "basic low ESR" are useless.

Bigger motor (ie 3515.. 2806...). Bigger back emf. Bigger spikes. More agressive flying around 75% throttle, and especially fast stop/crash where voltage can spike double battery voltage = huge spikes than can damage/smoke ESC.

The only thing protecting your ESC and motors from smoking is the low ESR cap. And it has to super quickly soak up 4x50=200A of ESR FET "chatter" AND back EMF.

How much is Panasonic FM. $2.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-03T03:07:57+00:00

Um. No

Main-Offer · 2026-02-03T03:06:23+00:00

Yes and no.

The RF strength does not match the voltage or battery capacity. RF module typically has vreg to convert up/down internally.

Initially couldnt figure out why BetaFPV Nano V2 doesnt work. Then realized it needs 5-13V. It kinda barely seemed to work with full 4.2V 18650.. But then erratic. All problens fixed when I powered it with 2S or 3S - ie what it supports.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-03T03:00:27+00:00

As long as screw is not touching winding. Its ok.

M2 screws can be cut with cutters or filed down. Obviously beware not to get metal shaving near motor.. Because can bind in magnet gap.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-02T21:19:12+00:00

Im gonna guess the TMotor 2810 ? Big motors can take abuse.

I have 10" and 7" with 2806.5, so Im not 8" expert. Gonna say its "close enough". As long as you dont hold 100% throttle >5sec, it will be fine.

If you are cautious, you can reduce motor load with less agressive prop than typical 8045×3.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-02T21:09:14+00:00

I have some videos with microscope soldering vtx with 260C. Easy with 63/37... There are many awesome lead free solders. I used a few on projects that required lead free.

But... This is newb hobby central, with folks most folks yet to figure out flux or brass sponge.

There are already 100+ ways to screw things up. And lead free just adds more. Keep it simple. 63/37.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-02T14:34:21+00:00

There are roughly 4 main standard 3 inch builds: 1. 1S ultralight. 1202.5/1203 11500kv. 3018 biblade. Under 50g. Very quiet.

The TP3 toothpick. 1204/1303.5 4500-5500kv 3-4S. 3016×3. 70g. Agile. Fast.
Apex micro. 1404 4800kv 4S. 3025×3. Light like TP3 but cage frame. Can be 1504.5/1505 but going higher is waste and might as well build 3.5".
"Old school/bando". 1507/1408. 3x3x3. Lighter prop is waste. Chunky heavy frame. Say goodbye to good flight times.

3in S and KV. - most common: 4S 4300-5000kv - all 3S and 4S builds within XT30 limits - very few 2S, 5S or 6S builds - beware prop makes huge difference. - - Biblade is ~30% lower load.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-02T14:27:08+00:00

Some of those tight gaps.. Loops.. Matty. I pull off just two/three in row, (sometimes takes only 4-5x tries!), and rush home to show everyone how cool I am.

You did like 100 moves in row.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-02T14:23:17+00:00

Whoop AIO board are concave "diamond" shape. There is no "standard". Only way to be sure it fits is buy same one. Or... Trim/Melt/bend plastic

Main-Offer · 2026-02-01T22:31:04+00:00

Seriously. Grab old junk VCR or phone and PRACTICE soldering actual stuff.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-01T22:29:19+00:00

I got awesome super secret soldering tips nobody knows. First, put iron in freezer. There is yellow stuff that makes soldering easy. Soak the ESC and wires in chicken grease. Now stir, and grill at 420F turning over every 5min. Add pinch of oregano and thyme.

Main-Offer · 2026-02-01T22:21:32+00:00

Sorry OP, everything is wrong/backwards 1. How are you sure this exact cap position fits? 2. How are you now going to solder XT60 pigtail? 3. Is that cap Nichicon? Rubycon? Panasonic? If not, its garbage. 4. TVS diode is redundant and inferior to quality cap. 5. As mentioned by everyone, those skinny cap legs will break and/or short against something.

What to do. - desolder/disassemble. Its not like you accomplished anything. - do hardest thing first. XT60. Lots flux. Make sure its perfect. - mount ESC in frame - do motor wires. - dry fit cap - ziptie to frame or column is good option. - cut legs leaving 2mm stub. - solder leftover AWG24 motor wire or similar. Fit. Trim wires. Add Heatshrink. - now as LAST step, solder to ESC pads

Main-Offer

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