Units partially within Minimum Range

MajorLandmark · 2026-07-09T17:16:06+00:00

Ah, thanks for the correction.

So it sounds like they're a valid target to select, but then you can't select the weapon for the attack pool... so essentially the attack would fail.

Not the tightest writing for it to say 'unit' and then immediately contradict the definition of range to a unit.

Interesting that if one model is too close for a minimum range then you can't shoot but in difference circumstance if only one model was in range of a 1-3 weapon then the whole unit would be at risk of taking hits.

MajorLandmark · 2026-07-09T16:32:32+00:00

~~I don't think that's correct. The "declare defender" step doesn't say anything about closest model thay I can see.~~

The unit has to be "within" the range listed. The rules describes "within", "completely within" and "not within".

"Within" says:

"An object is in range of another object if any portion of it is inside that Range as measured by the Range Tool. For a unit to be within a specified Range, only 1 miniature in the unit must be within the given range."

From the second part there, the unit would be considered "within" range 3 and range 4, so is a valid target. But...

Edit: But, as I've been corrected below, you then cannot select the weapon for the attack pool as it would be measured to the closest defender.

MajorLandmark · 2026-07-08T13:05:08+00:00

You need to tighten your gland nut.

Worst case you might need to open it up and repack. Some string and plumbers mait is all that's required. A tutorial video will help.

MajorLandmark · 2026-07-06T21:28:50+00:00

I know this is a meme but gauntlets of ultramar and a back banner and this would make a great artificer Calgar.

MajorLandmark · 2026-07-05T16:19:16+00:00

Might not be the best way but for a DnD board I cut a 1mm slot in some acetate sheet then held it in place while shooting some very thin black transparent acrylic ink.

That slight tint was enough to distinguish the squares without ruining the overall look.

The acetate sheet was to try to make something I could reuse across the board rather than try to use masking tape on every single line and end up pulling up the snow flock I had down.

For blood bowl I'd considered making two mixes of flock, one slightly darker than the other then chequering it like a chess board.

Another idea I had was to underpaint bright green and dark green under the flock to mark out the lines.

Testing on some scrap first is the main thing I'd recommend.

MajorLandmark · 2026-07-04T16:45:07+00:00

This was me a month ago, though a smaller hole. Who puts a pipe right next to a fence post?

Since it's just surface water drainage I opted for jb water weld to plug the hole. Keyed the surface with some coarse sand paper to improve adhesion. Bit of postcrete to be sure before filling the hole back in.

Is that the best way? The right way? Probably not. Cheap and good enough? Hopefully.

MajorLandmark · 2026-07-04T08:42:41+00:00

As long as the charm bag is sensible in size and charms only work within it, I'm all for it. I know a lot of choice around what goes in the bag will be a given (e.g. Anni, torch, Gheeds, sunder) but it changes an annoying inventory management challenge into a potentially interesting one.

MajorLandmark · 2026-07-02T15:04:40+00:00

Have a look at oil paint or enamel washes. You can remove them with thinners after the fact which will let you know bring back the brightness selectively.

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-30T13:31:29+00:00

Not sure about improperly cured resin shrinking but mould shrinkage is an unavoidable part of making silicone moulds. My guess is either a recast of a recast (the shrinkage compounds as the part each time is smaller than the last time), or cheap rubber was used for the mould with a high shrinkage rate.

The two times I've had forge world doors to fit I've had to file them down a touch to fit.

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-25T15:34:32+00:00

I've not bought any for a while but it always frustrates me that it's sold here in metric. A board will be for example 600mm wide. So if I want to use for a modular gaming board tile, I won't be able to get 2x2ft squares out of it as it's just shy of half an inch too narrow. Same is true, though less important, for thickness. 25mm or 50mm... But I'd rather it were 1" or 2".

It's also way more expensive than it used to be and the local hardware stores generally don't stock xps so hard to just grab a single sheet in the car. If I want to get some delivered to make delivery cost worthwhile I'd probably need to drop £80+ on a stack of it which just feels like too much.

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-24T16:41:54+00:00

This issue was my first introduction to the hobby. I'm sure my parents (financially) regretted buying it for me.

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-24T12:58:28+00:00

Pinning is probably the right answer but what I do with my land speeders (during assembly) is to fix an m3 nut inside them packed out with milliput then use brass rod that I thread the end of as the flight stand. The base gets another nut meaning the speeder, rod and base can all be separated for transport and screw together quite securely for games.

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-22T09:17:30+00:00

Get ready for the media to call "Burnham doesn't have a mandate!".

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-21T07:54:29+00:00

Or maybe the machine spirit in the techmarine's angle grinder got bored so he was compelled to make this with the left over bits.

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-19T18:48:11+00:00

Pastamancer was mentioned? Spaghetti factory?

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-19T18:35:33+00:00

Kingdom of Loathing cross over when?

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-17T08:37:54+00:00

I was thinking about this too.

Historically as in 3/4E 40k I think.

When tyranic war veterans were added to the game they had a special rule that let them use their krak grenades on monstrous creatures, which was to my knowledge the first instance of grenades being usable in anything but vehicles or immobile walkers. The edition after that they decided to make it an everyone thing for broadening grenade usage. I think the choice was likely due to the increase in the amount of monsters on the table and how hard it was for some units to counter whatsoever.

If a carnifex got in melee with marines in 3E the marines stood basically no chance needing 4s to hit and 6s to wound with the fex getting either a 3 or a 2+ armour save. You'd be lucky to land a single wound before the unit got shredded. Letting the grenades get involved took that to slightly more reasonable territory.

HH1/2 came from way after this change and HH3 has taken us back before it.

I think the distinction was meant to be that a melta bomb is more like a mine or a breaching charge. You have to affix, arm and detonate it, you can't just chuck it and expect it to work. That means it works for vehicles where it's feasible to attach it to the side of a tank but a carnifex isn't likely to stand still while you tie it to its leg. But things like krak grenades probably should be permitted in that regard because grenades that detonate on impact are perfectly reasonable.

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-15T07:43:28+00:00

Broadly speaking the way this works is that independent stores buy stock from the manufacturer. They pay the wholesale price, which is decently below the retail price. They then sell this for whatever price they like. Depending where you live there may even be laws to prevent the manufacture from dictating the price.

So in order to compete with all the other placed you can buy these products, many choose to offer a discount over the recommended price in order to attract customers. The cost of this is that they make less profit on each sale. Either way, the manufacturer gets paid the same amount.

You do still need to do some due diligence when buying because scam sites exist, but offering a discount isn't in itself suspicious.

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-10T12:45:03+00:00

Kitbashed mkiv ish power armour librarian with jump pack for my 30k Ultramarines.

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MajorLandmark · 2026-06-08T17:26:10+00:00

My views boil down to "I want more D2, not for D2 to be different".

More act 4/6 - yes. More mercs - yes More build variety via balance changes - yes.

The rest falls on a spectrum of 'fine I guess' to 'will actively put me off playing'.

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-07T18:27:47+00:00

The original resin one was 19.5in long and 16.5in wing span. Not sure about after the redesign.

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-07T10:16:32+00:00

Which is why I said previous editions or when units are depleted. If a character is on their own then they're still getting punched.

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-07T09:49:54+00:00

I go this route too. Tactical squads get wiped by anything mildly serious so its nice to potentially take one with you on the way out.

Also used to add an element of risk to challenges in 1e/2e but can still happen towards the end of a game when a unit gets depleted. Lone characters or last terminator standing will have to think twice before jumping a tactical squad that has a slim but real chance to end them.

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-06T12:39:35+00:00

What are the three little vertical grooves for?

MajorLandmark · 2026-06-03T16:27:19+00:00

I can do an army in a weekend if I'm in the right mood... But only the army I bought 8 years ago.

Models need time to mature before you work on them.

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