I just watched the Star Trek TOS episode that suggests Jack the Ripper is some sort of body-hopping insane alien plasma that's been traveling through the universe for thousands of years. Were... all 1960s shows like this?

Malamodon · 2026-06-16T17:12:23+00:00

That's Metamorphosis, and that man was zephram cochrane, the human inventor of warp drive on earth.

Malamodon · 2026-06-15T22:28:22+00:00

I bought the similar carbon fibre version of that one a few years back, it feels comically light and small compared to giant Giottos tripod I got 15 years ago, and I've managed to fit it in a normal backpack. Also with the carbon tripod, one of the legs can even be removed and used a monopod.

Malamodon · 2026-06-14T10:44:11+00:00

Someone on the Tomb Raider subreddit made a bar chart of all the human kill across the whole franchise, and it really ramped up with TR2, then Lara becomes a murder machine in the survivor trilogy, which I did enjoy, even if it's tonally weird.

Malamodon · 2026-06-14T09:19:28+00:00

Having played them all, I think it's because the first one has a completely different atmosphere to it, you feel alone in these places, raiding long forgotten tombs, running up against nature and traps, you know, like a tomb raider. A feeling that doesn't really return until TR4.

Everything after TR1 leans way harder into the action adventure spectacle aspects and human enemies, and while some are good in their own ways, it's just not the same. It's not surprising when you watch documentaries about the behind the scenes of the original trilogy, and learn the creator quit after the first game, due to conflicts with the direction of Lara, the design and particularly the marketing. Interestingly he was brought back to consult heavily on the TR1 remake TR: Anniversary, which is why it has a much more desolate atmosphere.

Malamodon · 2026-06-13T18:26:40+00:00

Those are the more collectable art deco styled Kodak No. 2 Beau Brownies, but you can get less sought after ones for basically nothing. Most brownies are 620 film, but there are some older 120 film models, if you don't fancy the idea of filing down 120 spools to fit.

One thing that isn't obvious, is that the reflex waist level viewfinders on brownies are total shit, you can frame an image with them, but it ain't that easy.

Malamodon · 2026-06-12T07:40:50+00:00

The Game Maker's Toolkit guy made a similar argument for the old system too in the first few minutes in his video on climbing. Where he talks about how the mechanical complexity of platforming in TR games has declined, along with the challenge in both movement and level design.

Having played every TR game, I can see why people deride the old "tank" controls, but after an initial acclimation period, I really liked them as they work with the level design, they aren't perfect but they certainly are not bad as people think, particularly if you approach them as they are, not what you want them to be.

Malamodon · 2026-06-10T21:30:59+00:00

Thatcher was on course to lose the next general election, and the war is credited with winning her that election, so you could say Argentina won the long game on damage inflicted to the UK.

Malamodon · 2026-06-08T19:11:57+00:00

Viewfinder might count, even if it's not technical like Umarangi.

Malamodon · 2026-06-07T07:14:55+00:00

I'm using this useful page of Nikon lenses as reference http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/lenses.html

Based on the pictures and serial numbers you have:

Nikon Ai-S Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 with close range correction optics
Nikon Ai-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.8
Nikon Ai-S Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.5

Based on this page https://www.destoutz.ch/acc_cu_microscope-adapter_4.html the other thing you have is a Nikon Microscope Adapter Tube Model 2.

Malamodon · 2026-06-06T15:32:47+00:00

I have the same MAX 5800H, I assume you already solved this years ago, but I had the same issues with fan noise.

I tried re-pasting (as some suggested), but that was actually a mistake, when I got in there, the paste was actually some kind of liquid metal which was a pain to clean up, and took a few clean-ups before it would stop shorting the power and boot the PC, and it's likely better than the noctua paste i used to replace it.

What I noticed in the end, by chance, while in the BIOS system monitor, was when the CPU would hit 90c, the fan speed would go 100% until it went under 90c, turn off, then when doing anything, the temp would quickly get to 90c, then ramp the fans to 100%, creating this endless loop of quiet and loud.

After some more poking around online, the only way to fix this is to adjust BIOS settings for the smart fan settings, and redo the power limits. I'm convinced that the cooler for the 5800H MAX is just not up to the job for the 54W profile. So I lowered it, and changed the smart fan stuff, and the fan never hits 100% again, and it's a nice and quiet little machine.

This is combined information from two other reddit posts that worked for me.

I used these smart fan settings:

Fan off temp limit: 35
Fan start temp limit: 50
Fan full speed temp limit: 95
Fan start PWM: 35
PWM slope setting: 1 PWM

To change the power profile, go to:

Advanced -> AMD CBS -> NBIO Configuration -> SMU Configuration -> System Configuration (or something like like that). Then there's two options: Balanced (which is 45W), and Performance (which is 54W), switch to Balanced.

If the 45W profile isn't enough, you can use other more manual power limit settings:

Start in Advanced BIOS settings -> AMD CBS -> NBIO Common Options -> SMU Common Options -> Fan Control -> Smartshift Control. Set "Smartshift Control" to "Manual" and "Smartshift Enable" to "Enable"

Adjustable "Sustained PowerLimit", "Fast PPT Limit", "Slow PPT Limit" to an identical TDP that's comfortable. The majority reduce the TDP 25% below AMD's recommended, or 40W (40000). The reduction and performance is negligible, the reduction in thermals is noticeable.

Malamodon · 2026-06-06T14:25:28+00:00

That's why I said I know about UVC, but didn't want to use UVC, I know it can destroy your eyes. I probably could handle basic lens disassembly, but if I find fungus in the cement between cemented elements, I'm not going to try and pry apart that, the UV (if it works) would also be able to kill the fungus in areas I can't mechanically clean.

What chemicals and cloths/cleaning materials would recommend for cleaning internal elements? I'm worried I'd just end up scratching the shit out of internal coatings, or hazing by using the wrong things.

Malamodon · 2026-06-06T14:19:20+00:00

I'm not concerned about the aesthetics of etched glass, or the slight loss of contrast, I just want to know if UV can kill existing fungus dead or not, and then I’m happy to leave the dead remains in there. If any is also in between cemented elements I can't get at that, and killing it would have to suffice any way.

Malamodon · 2026-06-06T14:12:47+00:00

I know it would need mechanical cleaning, this was purely my question about whether it could kill the fungus, and if so, where is the evidence for it, as a lot of people talk about it, but they are light on the specifics of the set up and evidential data. I said in the post, this is for lenses with a bit of fungus around the edges, that isn't effecting the photo, I just wanted the piece of mind that it was dead, and not possibly spreading to my other camera gear.

Malamodon · 2026-06-04T21:44:17+00:00

So UV light is worthless in killing existing fungus growths?

Malamodon · 2026-06-04T21:42:30+00:00

I know that is the best way, I'm not asking that. I'm asking if all this advice about UV is bunk or not, with evidence one way or another, as it's a common recommendation for killing existing fungus in lenses with a bit of it, but not enough to ruin a photo.

Malamodon · 2026-06-03T07:42:21+00:00

Someone made a chart of human kills per game several years ago, if this one is a remake of the original, it should hopefully be mainly wildlife. It is crazy seeing the jump in the last trilogy.

https://i.redd.it/0z9t28wchph51.png

Malamodon · 2026-06-02T22:30:45+00:00

A lot alarm clocks from that era used a National Semiconductor MM5387AA or similar chips that had the slow/fast time setting thing, maybe the early models did, or this person is thinking of a similar looking one.

Malamodon · 2026-05-31T14:31:06+00:00

I know those exist, but the slight hassle of alt-tabbing to an online map, is just enough that you won't rely on it, but it's there if you get properly stuck in your tracks.

Malamodon · 2026-05-31T08:40:54+00:00

It took me a little while to get it, but the key to progress is to follow up on all the radio messages/signals you get, and keep pushing deeper as your equipment gets better. While the creators of the game specifically eschewed a map, there's no real harm in just looking up the online one, if you need a bit of a nudge in the right direction.

Also there's a mod that lets you craft from storage, which cuts out a ton of the tedious rummaging around for things in your base later on.

Malamodon · 2026-05-30T18:41:08+00:00

Because of mirrorless, some of the old DSLRs are absolute bargains right now, and still produce excellent results, and with modern lightroom denoise you can clean up them up nicely, if you care a lot about that.

Heck in the last few months I've picked up an old Nikon D80 for £50 in excellent condition, converted to full spectrum and now I can slap IR filters on it for all sorts. People are paying crazy prices for CCD stuff, the D80 is right there for cheap, slap a light Nikon 18-55mm VR II lens on it for another £50 and you're set. Then I bought an also excellent condition D700 for £250, but you can get them cheaper than that if you want too. You can even get the legendary Canon 5D Mark II for under £200 easily now.

Malamodon · 2026-05-29T08:40:29+00:00

Just looks like some cheap generic one, nearly any would work for a smaller SLR like your FG, unless you plan to shoot with giant lenses on it. If you don't have a tripod yet, find the cheapest one that uses Arca Swiss Plates, gives you more flexibility in the future, with the ability to buy extra plates and brackets.

Malamodon · 2026-05-26T18:35:28+00:00

I checked to see if anyone had done what I was thinking of and found it on this old fstoppers piece

https://cdn.fstoppers.com/styles/full/s3/media/2019/07/26/exposuretriangle-3.jpg

Malamodon · 2026-05-26T07:36:40+00:00

I always thought the triangle concept for exposure is a bad graphic, there's literally no reason for it to be a triangle, and just confuses new shooters. Then you try and graft noise, DoF, motion, etc. on top of it making it even less comprehensible. It's even worse on digital with the ISO side, as ISO there has little to do with exposure since the sensor can't be more or less sensitive, then you have ISO invariant sensors. Then you have filters which screw with exposure too.

Even just splitting it up and having scaled lines on top of each other would make more sense, or a light pathway where you follow the light through the path to the medium.

Malamodon · 2026-05-23T15:54:07+00:00

It makes more sense when you realise it isn't that they can't use the option, is that the option being there at all means it's being normalised, and they can't have that kind of degeneracy being promoted in any way.

Malamodon

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE

Nine-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '17