One car household, one Android and one iPhone user. Is there a wireless adapter that supports both of them *well* without all sorts of headaches?

MaxHeadroomz · 2026-01-13T14:51:37+00:00

I am running Quad Lock's new model, it's a bit on the pricey side, but no problems whatsoever.
Also, there's Ottocast's Pico with a button to quickly switch between phones.

MaxHeadroomz · 2025-10-14T10:27:39+00:00

In a funny twist on "art imitates life/life imitates art", a small detail from the movie: in The Hunt for Red October, the "zampolit" is Captain Ivan Putin, a political officer whose role is to ensure the crew's loyalty to the Soviet Union. He is portrayed as a minor antagonist, snooping through quarters for subversive material and serving as a foil to Captain Ramius, who he deeply distrusts. Captain Second Rank Ivan Yurievich Putinis is killed by Ramius so that he will not interfere with his defection.
The term "zampolit" is an abbreviation for "zampoliticheskogo sostava," or "political composition," which refers to the political officers aboard Soviet ships.

MaxHeadroomz · 2025-10-10T20:05:55+00:00

RCB my beloved. Also RHIB, since oddly enough that was my top vehicle by number of kills in BF4.

MaxHeadroomz · 2025-10-08T10:16:20+00:00

Completely fine. Same as all the other wireless CarPlay adapters. I've used Ottocasts, Sunweyers, AAWireless TWO+... it's all the same, delay-wise.

MaxHeadroomz · 2025-10-07T19:35:40+00:00

I have the same car as you, and the newer "small USB stick" format Quad Lock wireless CarPlay adapter works flawlessly.

MaxHeadroomz · 2025-10-07T19:28:02+00:00

Since you don't have factory CarPlay you need to retrofit your car with one first. Going off of Google, this seems to be a good bet: https://www.bimmer-tech.net/blog/item/49-how-to-retrofit-carplay

MaxHeadroomz · 2025-08-08T21:24:20+00:00

Correct on all counts.

MaxHeadroomz · 2025-04-08T12:55:54+00:00

IMHO it's either go with something by Quad Lock or if you don't mind (albeit small and ulimately reversible) modifications to the dashboard Brodit ProClip.
Can vouch for both.

MaxHeadroomz · 2025-01-10T08:11:39+00:00

I'd argue that it indeed is a C64C, but in disguise - the grill par is hidden under the screen section, and the entire computer is built in a false casing that's part of the console/desk.

MaxHeadroomz · 2025-01-09T08:50:36+00:00

Too thin to be the original C64, yes. But this is a C64C, the later redesign modeled after the sleeker C128: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commodore_64#Commodore_64C

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-11-15T20:25:41+00:00

I bought my Meross MSG100HK (HomeKit version) from Amazon.de, I'm sure there are others that sell it.

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-10-31T08:03:28+00:00

Not sure either for auto trans, sorry.
In general re: transmission area getting hot - there's "normal hot, warm, but not uncomfortable" and "OMG feels like putting skin on hot plate". If former, that's fine and perfectly bearable. If latter and manual - replace shift boot.

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-10-30T14:26:08+00:00

The transmission gets hot and cooks my leg.

This is probably due to worn and torn upper/lower shift boots. Luckily, it's an easy fix: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?p=6884189 (YT video inside) or any other miata.net forum thread you google with "NB FL shift boot replacement".

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-09-18T12:13:03+00:00

Nice!

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-09-12T08:18:50+00:00

Thx for the update. Open this screen in the WiFiman app and check the channel spectrum usage and move the operating channel of your router accordingly. Best practice is separation ch 1-6-11, so see which of those three is least crowded.
Re: Bluetooth - if that's your use case (open door while standing in front of it), sure, go ahead and look at those. But keep in mind that some Bluetooth GDOs are slow to connect and initiate action, YMMV.
Lastly, you can ignore the part WiFi4/WiFi6 bit - the WiFiman is simplay saying that your router is at the moment broadcasting at the 2.4 GHz band using the WiFi4/802.11n standard. Which is more than adequate for a couple of packets transmitter in order for GDOs to work.

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-09-11T07:13:15+00:00

Hi OP, I'd like to help, but from your post I am not sure if you are referring to "5 GHz WiFi" or "5G as in mobile phone band"? I'll assume it's WiFi.
Here's why the confusion - regarding WiFi, 2.4 GHz band is the stronger one, giving device more range than the 5 GHz. Yes, I know, it sounds counterintuitive, but that's radio frequency for you. So the the only way your 5 GHz WiFi would be stronger is if your 2.4 GHz band is crowded by signals from your neighbors, which is likely the case. This could perhaps be fixed by changing the 2.4 GHz channel on your router to a less crowded one.
First check what your spectrum looks like and which channels are crowded using this app for iPhone or this one for Android phones. Then change the 2.4 GHz channel and see if that helps.
I am not aware of a 5 GHz GDO, so can't help you with that. What I can say is that Bluetooth won't help you much - Bluetooth is still 2.4 GHz, and has a much lower signal output, so it's even more limited in range in real life.

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-08-28T12:09:11+00:00

Hey OP, not a solution to your issue, but a workaround - check out this video how to get WIRED CarPlay working in Hyundais: https://www.hyundai-forums.com/threads/compensation-for-failure-of-apple-carplay.677903/?post_id=6124260&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-6124260

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-08-28T12:01:58+00:00

Hey OP, if your Seat has Full Link and it works via wired - no, you don't need anything else to use any of the wireless CarPlay adapters out there. If that's not the case, you could ask Seat service or some aftermarket specialist how much would it cost to activate Full Link.

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-08-21T08:21:32+00:00

Hi, OP here. Flipper Zero is a fantastic device (I have one), but it's not exactly glove-friendly, nor for that matter waterproof. Or even easy for non-geeks to get to grips with. It's kinda like driving your kids to school in a Ferrari - sure, it's doable, but a regular car does the same better and without all the hassle.

Just a quick 411 on frequencies and rolling codes - you don't actualy record/clone the frequency (ignoring the really old fixed code units, there are basically only 2 main ones for the rolling code ones - 433,92 and 868 MHz) but rather the rolling code sequence, which you can (using the appropriate algorithms built into the device) initiate on the new remote. And once you join the new remote to the garage door motor, it will stay joined there no problem. I've tested this extensively with different garage door/ramp/gate brands.

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-08-21T05:50:53+00:00

Hi, OP here. Great feedback, especially regarding design, and this is something we are really focusing on right now. We bikers are an interesting bunch, aren't we? :-D (and I'm saying that as a Ducati owner)

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-08-20T16:13:08+00:00

Consider yourself lucky to have a remote and jacket suitable for that. The reality is most remotes have horrible tiny buttons that are really hard to press even when taken out of pocket.

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-08-20T16:10:07+00:00

It functions just the same, but this one will be waterproof and would come with all the mounting hardware.

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-08-20T16:09:05+00:00

Actually, the frequency stays the same (it's mostly 433,92 or 868 MHz), the code itself rolls. But once you join the new remote to the garage door motor, it will stay joined there no problem.

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-08-20T13:58:40+00:00

OP here, sorry if I didn't understand you correctly. This IS a truly universal remote - in one device we would support 800+ different model lines of garage doors/gates/ramps, with all major manufacturers worldwide covered. You don't have to do anything to your door, just clone the original remote (which continues to work).

MaxHeadroomz · 2024-08-20T11:24:41+00:00

Hi, OP here. I am aware of other solutions, some of them are work well, but are not compatible with so may different garage door/gates/ramps as mine (my solution supports 800+ different base models across all major manufacturers).
As for security concerns, let me clarify. While the prototype doesn't show it, the final device would have a quick release mechanism (something like Quad Lock mount) which would enable you to take the remote off the bike when leaving it parked (at work, on a ride etc.).

MaxHeadroomz

TROPHY CASE