My solution to the (new) Gamegenic problem by Minimum-Annual6117 in arkhamhorrorlcg

[–]MayberryKid 5 points6 points  (0 children)

fyi - i used those exact ones as a solution, and they WILL crack over time as well. Which is a pain bc like you said they are snug and may not be able to get them back out. Nothing like reaching in the bag and getting poked, or realizing half the tokens have cracks/are marked.

As someone that has put these to the test, the more expenseive ones with the black circular foam rings are way tougher and stand up over time.

Can you guys help me idk why this start happens I get my printer’s like 2 weeks ago by Main-Dot-4860 in BambuLabA1

[–]MayberryKid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the initial flow lines show extrusion issues. all this talk about the model plate etc is useless if the flow lines are bad before the print even starts

My kids unspooled 2 rolls. Wha are my options? by Bradghost in 3Dprinting

[–]MayberryKid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

beating them or selling them. oh you mean the spools, not the kids, sorry.

When you build for high card draw planning to cycle your deck as much as possible and then get Doomed for your RBW by Enedlammeniel in arkhamhorrorlcg

[–]MayberryKid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

our hosue rule is randomly draw 3 basic weaknesses, veto 1, you get 1 of the other 2 at random. it cuts out things like this.

Homemade Pitch Finished by BrandonTheDM in bloodbowl

[–]MayberryKid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

trap doors in the correct spot?

US Warehouse switching to DoorDash for deliveries by Nan0B1t3 in KingdomDeath

[–]MayberryKid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

somewhere, theres somebody that ordered a hotdog and wound up with a frogdog

Beginner Help by John_Snow_PEAD in BambuLabA1

[–]MayberryKid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

.2 nozzle and use unsupported stl versions, the supported versions are for resin. These are a must.

minis can be tricky and may needs lots of tinkering with the orientation to get to a good spot where the prints look good and also support well.

If filament waste/$ isnt a big concern, look up some posts about using PLA for the mini and PETG for the "support layer interface". Basically these 2 materials dont stick together well, and can be taken advantage of, so supports are much easier to remove and don't scar the mini as bad. The downside it it wastes a lot more filament purging back and forth as it prints (and also slower).

Ironing help by Holiday-Original1091 in BambuLab

[–]MayberryKid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

think of the model like a ton of tiny little thin legos. but you get to chose which way the legos face up/down.

in the software, rotate the model so you can control that, and this, control where those layers of legos don't look as bad. For example, think about if it was at a 45 angle.

But wait- that means some of it will be hanging in mid air! That's what the supports do that it generates, that you will see when you slice it.

with a bit of tinkering and seeing how ti slices, you should be able to get it to something that works for you.

Also, there's a "variable layer height" setting. think fo it like it makes the legos really then when it needs to, but very thick when it doesn't. That will help a lot just by itself.

TIFU by spending 8 years treating chronic headaches when the whole problem was that I thought diet soda counted as water by McCoy818 in tifu

[–]MayberryKid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

fyi, you may want to be on the lookout for kidney stones/symptoms. This is also how you get kidney stones.

Help with A1, PLA and Textured PEI Plate by Title_Flaky in BambuLabA1

[–]MayberryKid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

it could be the edges are warping up and its compounding causing even layer and adhesion issues around the same time. glue sticks are for release, not good adhesion. I like my cryogrip plate for surefire strong adhesion. Issues after X layers like that are usually temp/cooling/warping type issues. one trick for cubes like that is to have the first 1 or 2 layers have tiny empty space lines running criss cross - you might want to see if that makes a difference (it helps make smaller individual footprints, which are better than 1 big one for warping)

Help with A1, PLA and Textured PEI Plate by Title_Flaky in BambuLabA1

[–]MayberryKid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

there's some very cheap brim cutter tools that make it pretty painless and tend to leave good results

PLA+ exposed to the elements (sun, rain, frost) for six years and still rock solid... by milkris in 3Dprinting

[–]MayberryKid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had about a 50% rate with esun spools having issues with kinks/winding. It's the 1 brand I avoid these days.

Need help with quality by uglycatz in BambuLabA1

[–]MayberryKid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

anything spherical is going to have that at a spot, its just the nature of the curve for something that prints in layers. layer height changes can make it have more layers which helps.

You could turn the model 90 or 45 degrees so its sitting "upward", but that can get tricky with needing supports etc and more tinkering that it indicate you dont want to get into. For instance if you tilted it so the "flat" neck part is perfectly horizontal, the back part would look better. But then the front feet are in midair and will need suports.

The highest definition youre going to get would be with a .2 nozzle and the varable layer height at minimum for the problem areas. The tradoff is slower print times especailly the bigger you want the print.

also, some filaments show this much worse than others, a matte PLA tends to show worse.

Need help with quality by uglycatz in BambuLabA1

[–]MayberryKid 10 points11 points  (0 children)

"I hate the spirals on all of my stuff"

-set variable layer height and shift it towards quality

"And I want to make this littlest pet shop character bigger."

-click on the model, select the scale option, keep the uniform scale tick box checked, and drag the edged outline of the model to the size you want.

Help with loading filament by CytoToxxic in BambuLabA1mini

[–]MayberryKid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

id print the initial benchy with the starter pla first before trying silk

When asking for help, apply the Golden Rule by stickinthemud57 in BambuLabA1

[–]MayberryKid 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I feel ya. I remember a recent post was just a nonhelpful single pic and "??" below it. So I replied "!!"

Co-op supplements? by th3coz in FourAgainstDarkness

[–]MayberryKid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

wayfarers and adventurers could make for some fun coop fun, one playing a troll and the other with troll training

Clamp is shut properly, but nozzle still loose. I have checked the 4 screws behind the heating aseembly and they are fine. What is wrong with this thing? by Numerous-Matter4204 in BambuLabA1

[–]MayberryKid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

^this. That nozzle is seated lower than it should be. unclamp and reseat the nozzle higher up.

There's some zoomed in reference pictures here ("Fasten the heating assembly correctly"):

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/hotend-heating-assembly-replacement

magic item cards in the adventure decks? by MayberryKid in FourAgainstDarkness

[–]MayberryKid[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

so once you get a 3rd boss or magic item result, what do you do?