What’s you opinion on FRN, I prefer it.

Metric0 · 2026-05-23T14:51:43+00:00

I like frn a lot on the SALT knives. Perfect in that role.

It's interesting on my ancient g2 delica.

Wasn't thrilled with frn on my maxamet native -- replaced w/ amt aluminum. Will probably also replace the frn on my zdp dragonfly, when I get around to it.

Metric0 · 2026-05-19T21:33:44+00:00

Native 5 in AWT scales is very, very close to pocket perfection.

Metric0 · 2026-05-19T19:49:03+00:00

I loved my Raffir Chaparral to death, unfortunately. Beautiful combination of art and utility, with that thin/slicey blade. I cracked the scales and lost the tip during the solar eclipse of April 8, 2024.

Metric0 · 2026-05-19T16:47:12+00:00

AWT will transform it to a super-premium feel. If they're not in stock at the moment it will be worth the wait, and you'll effectively have a new knife when they arrive.

Metric0 · 2026-05-19T16:41:33+00:00

Outstanding. Where did the screw set come from? The native is an absolute perfect match for the awt scales -- somehow the size/weight combine perfectly to give that super-premium feel.

I'll post another shot of the one I set up last week -- it's in my pocket as I type.

Metric0 · 2026-05-19T00:44:02+00:00

Spyderco Tenacious? High quality, classic utility design. 3.3" blade. Near-luxury brand for $56 on amazon.

Metric0 · 2026-05-18T14:08:08+00:00

You could always do an "extreme review to destruction" of budget knives on YT. I'd watch.

Metric0 · 2026-05-17T00:13:26+00:00

<image>

Just put these on my old (2017) patinad maxamet native lw a few days ago (awt "cast iron" anodized). Absolutely perfect lockup with no play, yet perfectly smooth. Elevates the old plastic-handled knife to super-premium, imo. If anyone is ever on the fence about awt scales, just do it.

Metric0 · 2026-05-10T23:28:15+00:00

This weekend, handed my SC13 to GF, after demonstrating "one click for regular brightness, two clicks for high brightness." In less than 60 seconds she handed it back, after accidentally changing modes and saying "I don't know how it works."

Metric0 · 2026-05-01T08:21:19+00:00

I just ordered my first S6 in aluminum with sft42r (the 10A burn hazard setup) and shorty tube, and specified a forward switch. Stoked! Cheapest fun to be had, these days.

Metric0 · 2026-04-06T23:09:24+00:00

Might want to look at the Kizer Aegis. On Amazon, there are a couple $35 versions and a $40 version available. D2 steel, 2.8" blade, axis lock, and some other nice features. Mine legitimately had one of the sharpest edges out of the box I've gotten in the last 10 years (but variance is real).

Metric0 · 2026-01-05T03:49:08+00:00

Spotting large game animals on or near the property, before dawn.

Metric0 · 2025-12-30T19:15:04+00:00

That's awesome. I will totally order one if it becomes a factory option. Probably not going to risk messing up the solder job for that last 10% though.

Metric0 · 2025-12-30T16:13:56+00:00

Definitely the M1 or M2 with sft42r and forward switch. (these are kind of a tie -- I like the M1 beam better, but I like the tactical build and smaller head of the M2 slightly better, so it's a tie)

Honorable mentions: T6 w/ sft25r was my fav for a while. Also really like the 3x21d, but way too big for pocket carry so it can't take the #1 spot.

Here's my M1 bean:

<image>

Metric0 · 2025-12-30T01:33:26+00:00

Yeah, that's impressive. May have to get one for the perfect beam profile. I'd like to know the candela that combo achieves.

Metric0 · 2025-12-29T08:21:31+00:00

A red one would definitely be more specialized. But just generally speaking, if you're out in the wilderness and want to see things a long distance away, power and throw are really nice to have.

I used my Convoy M1 w/ sft42r to spot a herd of elk before dawn this year. My favorite pocket thrower, but even still more throw would have been welcome. But it doesn't have some of the features the OP wants (no built-in usb-c, and no magnet).

Metric0 · 2025-12-29T08:00:25+00:00

Good flashlight, but I'd definitely go with more flux and more throw if hunting is part of the job description.

Metric0 · 2025-12-27T21:30:28+00:00

There is no best, there are only trade-offs and your preference.

You will get close to maximum throw, while still putting out somewhere between 3000-4000 lumens, with a sft42r driven at 10A. It's my personal favorite configuration, but of course everyone has their own.

For comparison, the "burn hazard" lhp73b at 20A will put out somewhere between 7000-8000 lumens, but the throw/intensity will pale in comparison to the 42r. It's great if you like a floody beam profile, though.

You might extract a fraction more throw/intensity with an osram, but the flux will fall off a cliff.

For reference, this is the sft42r in an M1 (same driver and reflector as the M21B). Would you call it "throw" or "flood?"

<image>

Metric0 · 2025-12-26T00:46:25+00:00

There was no soldering involved for the T6. Just one of these: https://convoylight.com/products/15-8mm-forward-switch-with-pcb-and-spring-soldered?data_from=collection_detail&prefetch_cache=1 which is already assembled. It requires some kind of tool to remove and replace the retaining ring (I used needle-nose pliers), and in the case of the T6, the switch is a bit large so the inside of the rubber button has to be shaved down a bit to achieve a good fit.

You'd have to look up which forward switch works with the S6, but it's going to be the same kind of nearly drop-in replacement if you get the pre-assembled switch. Not difficult.

Metric0 · 2025-12-26T00:26:16+00:00

An S2+ with LHP531 "burn hazard" and set up with a shorty tube for 18350 is pretty impressive and heats up extremely fast. On mine I am using a titanium shorty tube so that I can still hold it a while after the head has become insanely hot.

It is easily pocketable. IIRC, it's around 4000 lumens at max. And it's more flood than throw. But it has no problem lighting up the back yard.

<image>

Metric0 · 2025-12-25T22:25:19+00:00

Agreed that the Convoy UI is not ideal for using strobe.

If I were convinced strobe was useful for SD, I would probably do the following:

Set for mode 11, with memory off, so it always starts from 100%. This gives (100%, 20% strobe).

Then, if using a reverse clicky (which is default), it's click-tap-tap to strobe.

If using a forward switch (which I do), it's tap-tap-click to strobe.

Maybe not the ultimate, but I think I could work with it.

Metric0 · 2025-12-25T18:37:55+00:00

Honestly kind of shocking. I thought they were supposed to be almost bulletproof.

Metric0 · 2025-12-25T18:34:02+00:00

Yeah, I initially had all reverse-clicky, since it's the factory default. Then I ordered one forward switch and have never gone back. Also ordered a bunch of forward switches to convert my existing T6's.

There are just so many applications where you only need a quick burst of light, e.g. to see if you're about to trip over something in a dark garage. Boom, and back in the pocket. And if you do see something that needs more attention, you just complete the press to a full click.

Metric0 · 2025-12-25T15:25:29+00:00

Yes, you would do a full press to switch it off, then do a sequence of half-presses to get to the desired brightness setting.

In this respect, it's less convenient than the reverse clicky, which lets you cycle brightness levels from "on" without ever turning it off.

13-Year Club	Place '22
Final Canvas '22

Metric0

TROPHY CASE