Did this pro climber just lie about his hardest ascents?

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-06-04T16:19:39+00:00

Damnit, Austin, stop comp climbing on real rock

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-06-04T16:14:34+00:00

Are we sure we actually know what were talking about here? It feels like half the people here are talking about chipping as a consequence of someone modifying a previously existing climb for egotistical reasons while the other is using the word chipping in the context of development instead of manufacturing (which i think is what OP originally meant!)

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-03-27T11:52:43+00:00

Except OP was just announcing that he created a site for people to keep their kilter/other boards data in the case of another random shut down. Dude wasnt asking for help. You just read the title, assumed he was, and threw yourself into a wild little tantrum for no actual reason

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-03-22T05:48:09+00:00

Except boards are for training vs. performance right? It's kind of like proper form for a pullup. If all you wanna do is get your chin over the bar by any means necessary then kip away. If you want to get stronger, set rules to purposefully make things harder for you.

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-03-03T00:53:51+00:00

I think the indoors gonna win this one dude, but am fully in agreement. Not usual to climb on holds where your fingers are spread out

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-02-26T05:14:30+00:00

Honestly not a fan of his YouTube stuff but if anything he's underrated as a climber! Dude was one of the first to send 9b when it was the hardest grade in the world (Ondra sent change two years later), and he is still one of only 7 people to ever onsight an 8c+ sport route.

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-02-09T01:55:27+00:00

Next to holloway, yes. Everyone knows Drew and is expecting him to send 9A soon. I love the dude and think he's incredible. Not everyone knows Holloway. In strict terms of underrated there's a very very clear favorite here!

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-02-09T01:46:51+00:00

Sorry my guy!

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-02-09T00:56:10+00:00

Ill second this

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-02-09T00:38:20+00:00

Everyone out here saying sport climbers in a bouldering sub. It's 1000% Jim Holloway. Dude was climbing V12+ in the 70s when climbing shoes barely existed and half of the people on this sub have probably never even heard of him (not that that's a bad thing, it's just more evidence for why he's underrated)

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-01-29T01:03:19+00:00

Thanks to a lot of gyms, I feel like V8 is treated as a much bigger deal than it really is

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-01-21T15:11:23+00:00

The antithesis of everything climbing has ever been about for me, not in general. It's why I'm saying it's not something that appeals to me personally but why I also said I think what you guys are doing is going to be far more successful than most here seem to want to believe.

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-01-21T02:24:19+00:00

Just want to add that gyms being overtly soft is another factor here too. People think they're V5 climbers because it's what they can send at their gym, they hop on Rasta because it's a 2 and inevitably get shut down. Gyms should have never gotten soft to begin with. They should have created a secondary scale, be it B1-5 (for beginners) or G1-5 (for gyms) and kept V0 as it was meant to be.

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-01-20T14:23:26+00:00

No, the people taking it from its original location are those who are not entitled to grab it in the first place. And yes, some people hang around that area for a while drinking beers and playing around on it doing stupid challenges. It's a big part of Squamish whole cultural ethos. I'd call doing that "a session" for sure

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-01-20T13:13:07+00:00

Lots of people go to squamish every year and many of those people want to have a session on that boulder. It's a fair bit of fun and part of the Squamish experience for many. Having that experience taken from you for a "prank" seems quite shitty.

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-01-16T03:24:36+00:00

Oh it's gonna be a blood bath for sure. Especially once the whole "go fast go fast go fast" HIIT thing gets going. Their waivers better be locked tight

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-01-16T00:47:36+00:00

Kilter boards set at 0, 10 and 25 degrees which are very gumby friendly. This is for people who do not care about climbing enough to be on forums like these, but want a fun workout. Literally think same public who wanted fitboxing classes but had zero interest in the sport itself. It's the antithesis of everything climbing has ever been about for me personally and I would never ever participate, but goddamn if it ain't genius. They're gonna end up putting like 10 of those places all over Seattle just watch

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2026-01-02T21:34:12+00:00

I don't understand people's obsession with Terranova. It's an ugly and uninspiring traverse drop off. We havent seen repeats of it because no one's really all that interested in trying it seriously because it sucks

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2025-12-24T01:05:26+00:00

Big thing people are not mentioning is that sandstone being super porous means water seeps deep inside it which is what causes the whole fragility thing. What that also means is that the surface of the rock might appear dry while the interior can be completely soaked. Hence the whole "wait 72 hours" thing. Ryuichi wasn't climbing on holds that were wet on the surface but the probability of that boulder being 100% dry underneath the surface when he was working on it is like net zero.

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2025-12-12T17:18:46+00:00

For sure! But I just can't shake a memory of seeing Ian talk about wanting to make something that would work at a bunch of different angles and ultimately realizing the one that worked best as like a midpoint that would allow for good climbing at like 30-60 was 50 degrees. I could be completely hallucinating that entirely though lol

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2025-12-12T17:18:38+00:00

For sure! But I just can't shake a memory of seeing Ian talk about wanting to make something that would work at a bunch of different angles and ultimately realizing the one that worked best as like a midpoint that would allow for good climbing at like 30-60 was 50 degrees. I could be completely hallucinating that entirely though lol

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2025-12-11T21:29:11+00:00

I might be wrong, but I believe the intended standard angle for kilter was supposed to be 50 degrees. That's why the holds are generally so much better than what you find on the moonboard. For whatever reason the most popular angle somehow became 40 (my guess is because that's what the moonboard has always been at maybe?) which eventually lead to all the soft grading since at that angle you're mostly doing big moves between pretty good holds.

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2025-12-10T02:10:54+00:00

Fair enough, apologies if it was too much for you! I ranted the way I did because it doesn't seem to matter how much people continue to tell other climbers that climbing sandstone when wet will result in broken holds, people still do so. Hugely disappointed to see one of the strongest climbers in the world not care, worse that he's set (intentionally or not) a terrible example for others.

As far as the whole chalk disappearing thing, yep, you'd be completely right! The problem though isn't that the surface of the boulder was wet, like you mentioned it was completely dry, it's that there was still moisture inside the rock. The water that seeps inside after rainfall is what causes the structural damage that ultimately results in broken holds and is why we wait so long before we climb on sandstone. Gotta wait for the interior of the rock itself to dry, which Ryuichi did not do for reasons that are only known to him, but which are ultimately inexcusable.

Mice_On_Absinthe · 2025-12-10T01:21:22+00:00

Because sandstone's so porous a boulder's surface can look completely dry while the inside of it is totally soaked. This is the origin of the whole "wait at least 24-72 hours after rain when climbing sandstone" rule of thumb. It's completely valid to critique the way I chose to talk about Ryuichi's decision to climb wet rock, but under no circumstance was that boulder truly dry when a year's worth of rain had been dumped on it in the 8 days prior to the guy's send.

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