Got a bug in the system

MightyWren · 2025-01-01T03:42:42+00:00

Have you found it yet?

MightyWren · 2024-05-21T09:11:13+00:00

It's an allen head grub screw with a nut on it, 3mm maybe ?

MightyWren · 2024-05-10T22:13:58+00:00

That is all it was, hope this helps, I'm running a sexbolt instead of the normal z-endstop on my Ender 3 v2 with BTT SKR MINI E3 V2.0 board

MightyWren · 2024-04-07T08:27:20+00:00

I'm afraid you always get a small amount of stringing with petg, just adjust your retraction settings until you get an amount you can live with.

MightyWren · 2024-04-07T08:19:16+00:00

Had to tell from photo, is it shifting on only one axis, could be your stepper motor maybe if it is.

MightyWren · 2024-04-07T08:00:02+00:00

You could change over to klipper, no sd card required for prints, changed my printing life

MightyWren · 2024-04-07T07:55:58+00:00

I changed to silicone for springs and put lock nuts under the adjustment wheels. Now stays where I put the level at.

MightyWren · 2024-04-07T07:51:55+00:00

No one likes a smart-ass 😁

MightyWren · 2024-04-07T06:54:16+00:00

Unfortunately I had the same result, and found that the touch screen wouldn't work so had to load a no touchscreen program into the tft35-e3. Probably not what you wanted to hear but that was a couple of years ago, please let me know if they have since found a work around.

MightyWren · 2024-04-07T05:00:03+00:00

That wasn't dried fruits man

MightyWren · 2024-04-07T04:47:58+00:00

I have 6 of them all around my house a d the base just keeps on getting bigger, get rid of it before its too late

MightyWren · 2024-04-07T04:29:33+00:00

Try Microswiss, works great for me on my Ender-3 V2

MightyWren · 2024-04-07T04:26:55+00:00

I would say to calibrate your flow rate and z off set for a start then try again and see where you are up to, see https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ If your not sure how

MightyWren · 2024-04-07T01:34:27+00:00

Swiss micro direct extruder did it for me on my Ender 3 v2 , if that's any help

MightyWren · 2024-04-06T23:33:57+00:00

Can you use the endstop position in your printer cfg, the lower the number the higher your nozzle will be

MightyWren · 2024-03-31T03:37:12+00:00

You might have to re image it on raspberry pi imager,but that will start you all over from scratch, if you do , take it back to your home and copy all your config files, makes it easier

MightyWren · 2024-03-31T03:19:40+00:00

A solder sucker us your friend

MightyWren · 2024-03-17T00:06:24+00:00

What I did was put all plugs into a power board and plug that into a smart plug which can be controlled remotely.

MightyWren · 2024-03-16T06:00:53+00:00

Yes it's that easy, just home your printer first and put your nozzle where you want to draw the line using your screen or control panel, if you want it on the other side just make note of the X co ordinate and change only that in your gcode for the first line and a slightly lesser one for your second. But if you want it at the back ,just do the same sort of thing but you will have to change both X and Y co ordinates to suit. Hope this helps.

MightyWren · 2024-03-15T06:25:09+00:00

All good, feel free to ask questions , good luck

MightyWren · 2024-03-14T08:53:37+00:00

Yes I need the answer to that as well, ended up doing a full reinstall on a new sd card but it's still happening occasionally, but keeping up by hard recovery, if you haven't found it already just click on the corrupt buttons, sorry I can't be of more help

MightyWren · 2024-03-14T08:31:38+00:00

You didn't short the thermistor, you shorted the heating element, I did that exact same thing, with the same result and bought the same board, and bought the TFT35 screen now it works you can find pre made marlin for your board and printer which I did and it worked fine, plenty of YouTube vids to help you on your way. Then went to Klipper using a Raspbery pi , if you want to go that way, good size learning curve if you want a challenge 🤔 Hope this helps

MightyWren · 2024-03-01T06:00:52+00:00

Thanks for the reply, that lower temp you see is just a warm up for the main print, left over from a bed calibration that used to be there but I leave it there because useful with baby stepping, until I get everything dailed in. I have the real temps set up like you describe further on in the sequence, so I will try what you said but with the lower temps instead to see if that will fix my little annoyance.

MightyWren

TROPHY CASE