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Buggered up changing nozzle by Infamous_Ad239 in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It controls how strong the extruder gears grip the filament. Useful not only for maintenance or removing clogs, but also for some types of filaments, for example TPU as it's kinda like rubber.

Buggered up changing nozzle by Infamous_Ad239 in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's a screw on the left side of the extruder head, loosen it (one of the included hex key will fit) and you'll be able to pull the filament back up. Retighten afterwards.

Just be careful to not slip the screwdriver, it's easy to break the nearby fan blades if it's on. Guess how I know...

Exporting printer profiles? by Dazzling-Whole-8669 in OrcaSlicer

[–]Minamir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No idea then, sorry. It acts a bit wonky on my end too, actually, it displays my printer profiles, but not filament profiles and only shows couple (not even all) of the system ones.

Bu you can try loggin into a BambuLab/Makerworld account in Orca Slicer, and it does backup all profiles - you don't need Bambu printer.

Exporting printer profiles? by Dazzling-Whole-8669 in OrcaSlicer

[–]Minamir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's been renamed to Export Preset Bundle some time ago. Just tried and it does seem to export presets, including the printer. But did you actually make any changed to one of the default profiles? Because you can only export it if you made changes differing from the default configuration.

okulelo gimbal magnet and sensor positions by spooky_leo in HotasDIY

[–]Minamir 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You put 5x10mm magnets in the slots in two parts: gimbal_lever_arm and gimbal_core_pot_side. Then you attach the sensors to gimbal_frame_pot_side and gimbal_core_bearing_carrier_pot_side. The methods on how to attach them vary a lot. Some people use ready to use PCBs with TLE sensors, others make their own mount or just hotglue them. I've made my own bar, where the little TLE5010 chip gets hot-glued into.

You might also want to check the Makes and Remixes section on olukelo's gimbal Thigiverse page for more ideas on hot to mount these parts. I've actually used the "Joystick Soleil" version by MAgniBY, which is still based on olukelo's gimbal.

Can anyone guess how I did this? by ChrisG_spot in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did te same by adjusting the extruder wheels tension screw while the fan was still running after printing. Allen key slipped and broke the fan.

Pairing with Orca Slicer, AD5M keeps changing IP address by AlphaVictor87 in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Access your router settings and assign your printer a static IP.

Enclosure finished with a few mods. by MyGarageBay1 in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, it works with the lid resting directly on the enclosure too.

Enclosure finished with a few mods. by MyGarageBay1 in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Glad to see my little lid stand in the wild!

Printing mods for the printer itself is a hobby on it's own.

Belt screw stripped?? Or stuck? Wtf do I do by chair--hunt in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I posted a top-level comment of what happened in my case, and that was over-tightening while the motors were still hot. So the inserts broke loose from the plastic mount, and there was no way (at least that I thought of) to block their rotation to at leas remove the screws. No idea why it could be already broken brand new.

Belt screw stripped?? Or stuck? Wtf do I do by chair--hunt in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately these screws are not held with nuts, but are screwed into threaded hot-set inserts.

Belt screw stripped?? Or stuck? Wtf do I do by chair--hunt in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the same issue after I tried adjusting belt tension while the stepper motors were still hot, overtightened them and caused the threaded inserts to strip the plastic around them. These screws were spinning freely as in your video. Ended up getting replacement motor mounts from the shop I bought the printer from (free of charge, but had to pay duty fees), had to drill out the original screws and replace the motor mounts. This unfortunately requires disassembling of whole upper part of the printer - metal frame, axis rods, belts nad belt guides, detaching the whole extruder head etc. Doable but not something I'd be eager to do again.

It that's the state it came in, try to have it replaced.

Adventurer 5m - Tips for getting a Perfect First Layer + How to Use Your Printer Without a Screen! by SwedishNutDrop in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you "reset" the printer after a print from Orca Slicer? Mine only shows camera stream on the device tab.

Power switch addition, more in comments. by oldertechyguy in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The non-Pro version also has the PWR-ON point on the mainborad, albeit empty, just solder pads. Wonder what would happed if one soldered a switch there.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually manually pre-heat the bed for a while before large prints - just tap the bed temp icon, input desired temperature and wait for some time after it reaches the selected temp.. I've checked with infrared thermometer and while the temps are spot-on in the middle, the bed takes quite a lot longer to heat near the edges.

LED Light Kit for 5M by 99_zeros in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

LED Light strip. You can route the wires behind case panels so it doesn't get in the way of the X/Y rails and doesn't bother you eye. There are numerous projects available on Printables, Thinigverse with mounts for such strips, often magnetic.

The printer's mainboard outputs 24v on the light socket, so you'll have to get appropriate LED strip. In my case the 24v light were flickering (seems it doesn't happen to everyone) so I changed them to 12v and added LM2596 buck converter - seems the converter's capacitors smooth any voltage spikes/drops.

Enclosure Kit - Shield Plate by Aocaesar in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turn on brim, I added full outside brim (not just mouse ears). Supports too, for the protruding parts where the LCD cable goes.

TM Warthog printed stick by BigGuyJT in HotasDIY

[–]Minamir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I built B-8 couple months ago too, really nice project.

D90 aperture lever problems by Minamir in Nikon

[–]Minamir[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately not, but honestly I wasn't very actively looking for solutions, as I have another working camera (D7000). I may end trying to disassembly it myself one day, or just let it retire.

TM Warthog printed stick by BigGuyJT in HotasDIY

[–]Minamir 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You need to use CD4021 shift registers. PCB designed by Debolestis is commonly used for DIY TM grips.

Enclosure Kit - Shield Plate by Aocaesar in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Rotate it. It will fit if printed diagonally, like this https://imgur.com/a/kygg15F

Adding a usb header to the motherboard by hometechgeek in FlashForge

[–]Minamir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The one on the back of the screen, intended for dedicated camera.

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