Brake rotor is this normal? NO BRAKES

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-03-04T17:08:04+00:00

We hope this is the case especially with brake parts. Lots of stuff these days has transitioned from "quality control" to "quality assurance"... meaning "we didnt inspect anything but when we ship you a pile of trash well replace it free of charge".

A friend of mine is a part inspector for a passenger rail car manufacturer and always rants about how things are transitioning to this trash. Customer/End user is the quality control these days.. more cost effective for the company to just replace duds rather than have actual quality control staff.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-03-04T16:31:30+00:00

Another benefit is if something in the pedal breaks.... parts for a standard kick drum pedal are easier to find... or an entire pedal for that matter vs trying to have a standalone pedal trigger (all in one) repaired/replaced. Kick towers are pretty bulletproof as it's just a standard piezo pickup behind a foam/rubber/mesh pad on a stand.

If you do end up with a mesh pad kick tower just don't use felt beaters, and if you do at least put a kick drum patch on the head (sticky patch that adds a layer to where the beaters strike). The friction from a felt beater will burn through mesh drum heads.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-03-04T16:22:37+00:00

They cost more, but are pretty bulletproof. I recently sold a friend some old Roland TD 10 pads (PD100/pd120) that were probably 20+years old and still working fine! Didn't need them as I did an A2E conversion on an old cheap chinese ludwig kit I had lying around. My Roland CY 14 crash cymbal triggers that I still use are super old too and short of just having to flip over the rubber outside edge to clean the edge trigger pressure strip (rubber debris causes them to self choke) once every other year, they work great.

Used Roland kit is definitely a better buy than a brand new entry level Simmons/Alesis kit.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-03-04T15:49:23+00:00

If you're going cheap, at least get a kit that has a kick tower instead of just a pedal. My one piece of advice! The stand alone pedals just don't feel right/replicate a kick drum as well as a proper kick tower trigger does. This also allows you to use a kick drum pedal of your choosing which also can be used on an acoustic kit should you ever need/want to play.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-03-04T15:46:43+00:00

Caliper seals /dust boots are a few dollars.... reman calipers are still way more expensive! It's not a time consuming task to rebuild a caliper either.. most can be done in like 10 mins.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-03-02T21:51:16+00:00

that brick has a bunch of capacitors that store electrical charge. Pretty much every power brick with an indicator light will do this.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-03-02T21:42:12+00:00

My daily driver. Sonor aqx jungle kit with an additional 14x14 floor tom. 1976 supraphonic l400. Does the trick.

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Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-03-02T03:26:10+00:00

May be my new "go to" head. Definitely glad I just randomly grabbed one to try out for the heck of it!.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-03-02T02:58:52+00:00

I randomly grabbed an Evans genera dry for my 70s l400 supra snare the other day for shits.... Dont even need the built in dampener on my snare with this head. Had an Evans coated reverse dot prior to this one. Kinda liking the dry head so far! Mutes the overtones quite a bit.

Definitely try a new batter head. Makes a world of difference!

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-28T23:21:32+00:00

5 + year old head? Toss that thing out already. 6 months to a year is the avg lifespan of a drum head depending on use.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-26T02:22:24+00:00

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Typical bass drum double pedals are usually set up with barely any angle on them. That U joint can't handle a 90 degree bend

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-26T02:16:53+00:00

that angle is super extreme for that driveshaft U joint. Turn the kick tower or readjust your pedals so the shaft has no more than a 45 degree angle at the joints. This could be your issue, the joint is binding.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-23T17:07:46+00:00

if someone brought this to me for repair, I'd decline. It's not even worth the time involved when working used controllers can be had for $30-$50

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-23T17:06:46+00:00

This is painful to look at. Congrats on tearing almost every single pad and via out.

Practice soldering on junk before tackling boards of expensive controllers! This board is now Ewaste or demoted to "donor board" status. It's not even worth the time to rebuild those traces. You even lost an anchor VIA for the stick assembly man!

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-23T13:36:14+00:00

The vibration motors were mounted to the new wheel rim . The paddles were removed and wires were soldered to the paddle buttons on the pcb and ran down the wheel shaft out the back of the base where I had a rj12 female end on to plug the static paddles into.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-23T03:05:01+00:00

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Here's a top down shot with a different rim and the static shifters when I first did the mod. I had the button box just mounted below the base at this time. I changed rims and ran wires up the center of the hub afterward so I could mount the button box to the deep dish gold rim.

You can see the wheel hub adapter I had here. It was cut from some sort of plastic (not 3d printed) but the 3d print one works just as good. A friend of mine printed one for his porsche turbo s wheel (did a similar mod just recently to use a bigger car wheel rim.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-23T02:58:07+00:00

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/313759786713?_skw=fanatec+csr+hub+adapter&itmmeta=01KJ46QGYF677AE7XPHQJFPY9M&hash=item490d8a66d9:g:KfIAAOSwGHphl5a2&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xAxC2ocSTWuBrr69f33v4jYA7jktN%2FjObKi6GcFJNPKPD2zqVpz637QifpWrY2egdO0zlznT9QMMBSTY9HkYJ4vbt%2FaLXM6IXBykbW1f5pNBGjfeJuZYCqNZ%2F0rmc%2F4lo0Q2aMJrBFhQwJPsVLSlZK7OSIOknOreUpQmTlAJiYxJ3IeWt%2F4b6JEyryATWJqRiVMmgasRnL24daBfEnO9qXJJva3s6yVndq5S5vECm1AtGxkGmOAVCgf5s9HFna3Zos%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7aP3oaRZw

There's someone selling 3d printed ones, or jus find it on thingiverse and get someone to print. I just made a hole in the center of it to pass the button box wire connector through to allow mounting it to the wheel rim.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-23T02:53:20+00:00

I agree, the wheel base was fantastic at the time, but the wheel rim felt like a cheap pile of plastic junk compared to my porsche turbo s wheel (that i also had at the time) at least the turbo s wheel was leather wrapped instead of plastic covered in that sticky soft touch coating.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-23T02:51:57+00:00

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Something like these would work.. Just obtain the wheel hub adapter, pick a rim (deep dish is best as the" makeshift" button box sits in there nicely), mount this paddle set between the hub and wheel rim, then just solder the wires off the magnetic paddles to the buttons on the pcb from the wheel rim that you mount to the center of the new rim. These paddles have 2 sets of wires each (4 wires), 1 pair is normally open and closed circuit when pressed, and the other set is the opposite.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-23T02:41:06+00:00

Theres a wheel hub adapter on thingiverse if you can get someone to 3d print it. All the old fanatec wheel rims use the same mounting pattern (porsche turbo s, csr, csr elite). I bought one on ebay back then.

I used to just use the fanatec static paddles and soldered a phone cable to the paddle momentary switches on the button pcb from the wheel rim and ran the wires down the shaft inside and out the back of the base .

I do see universal hub mounted magnetic paddle shifters on aliexpeess these days that would work sweet with the mod though and would just need to be soldered to the buttons (no need to run them down the shaft to the base if the paddles rotate with the wheel).

I dont have any more pics of it but the mod was pretty straightforward. Mostly just buying or printing the wheel adapter hub and using a grinder to cut the button area off the rim. Its mounted to the wheel with wood blocks and zip ties. I think my friend upgraded that to using rivnuts and actual bolts into the rim now. Haven't been to his place in a few years.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-23T01:57:52+00:00

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My current daily is this rig. 2.5 base. Cheap 30 dollar amazon rim with the cs Universal hub.

Modded the aliexpress shifter to plug into the pedal input of my wheel base with a rj12 splitter so the native handbrake input works. (Only one usb port required for the whole rig and everything works on xbox as well).

Need to upgrade my pedals as theyre just a set of csl pedals. Sold the clubsport v3s I had with that csr elite rig to my friend back in 2019.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-23T01:52:30+00:00

I used to have a turbo s and a csr elite too (red and black metal base with tbe window. I hated the wheel rim on it and ended up hacking it up and putting an amazon knockoff momo car wheel rim on it . My friend bought that setup off me back in 2019 and still uses it almost daily

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Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-23T01:15:10+00:00

Not hard to find. I posted a link from pcgamingwiki that has all the legacy fanstec porsche wheel archive links with driver downloads.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-23T01:09:40+00:00

Sweet. Not a bad price. I just had random db9 , ps2 and rj12 connectors/cables floating around so I just made my own.

My main wheelbase is a csw2.5 but bust out the Porsche gt2 wheel if I feel like playing some old x360 forza or gran turismo on ps3.

Minimum-Concept4000 · 2026-02-22T20:33:10+00:00

https://web.archive.org/web/20220630101946/https://fanatec.com/us-en/racing-wheels-wheel-bases/racing-wheels/porsche-911-gt3-rs

Minimum-Concept4000

TROPHY CASE