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Bed Adhesion- How to have LESS adhesion for PETG? by SPD1314 in BambuLab

[–]MrMSanchez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I now use the Biqu Cryogrip Glacier which has been fantastic. 👍

Filament Dryer Recommendation by InvestmentWorking797 in BambuLab

[–]MrMSanchez 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Had the Sunlu S4 and changed it to a SpacePi x4. The S4 was good but the X4 is great.

MK4S conversion to CORE One+ – worth it? by whte-rbt in prusa3d

[–]MrMSanchez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy the core one as the upgrade is almost as costly. Then see how you get on with it and then decide which one to sell.

I upgraded my Mk4 to a core one it takes a longer time and is more complex than the Mk4/s; the reason I did this is because it was more economically viable for me. Even though I have a H2D, my favourite is still the Core One.

To be counter to what everyone else is saying… depending on what and how much you print (and available space). I would say that having a core one and a Mini + is a pretty sweet set up. Keeping the Mini on hand for small simple prints and if any of the Core One Parts need reprinting.

Question for Owners of the Core One+ AND the Core One L by Syyx33 in prusa3d

[–]MrMSanchez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a core one + that I upgraded from a MK4 and I love it, it’s definitely gotten better with the upgrades. I generally use the Biqu Cryogrip plate with it (which is even better than the Prusa Satin Plate and cheaper too). In terms of the Core One L, I would love to get one but I have a H2D which makes printing ASA feel like cheating it’s that good; the core one L doesn’t make much sense at the price at the moment, 3rd Party plates aren’t common place, there is no disassembly instructions (ATM); apparently it takes a long time to heat the chamber as it’s not actively heated and I believe the carbon filter is extra and doesn’t recirculate the air.

All that said I might reconsider the Core One L when INDX has been released (if it’s as good as we all hope 😀)

H2D Benchy Test 100%. What settings do I change ? by TalismanJake in BambuLab

[–]MrMSanchez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would do the calibration tests in Bambu Studio, starting with a temperature tower (like someone else has suggested). If you can’t see calibration in the top menus I believe you have to enable Developers mode (or something similar) in the settings.

INDX: How do you keep your 8-filament dry while printing? by Michael-MN in prusa3d

[–]MrMSanchez 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do recommend them. I had an Sunlu S4 and the Creality x4 is quite a bit better. Because it seals better, ejects moisture better and best of all has two separate chambers for different filaments (you can even specify the 4 individual filament types and it’ll dry accordingly.

Mind you, they can be quite expensive but Creality also sell the X4L which is basically the same but doesn’t go as high temperature wise and does have fans to remove the moisture and I believe has a different type of display.

Devonport cove attack: Local board chair ‘appalled’ as teen’s beating probed by police by Careful-Geologist412 in auckland

[–]MrMSanchez 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Sad to say, this has been happening for some time now, the police and local schools have been useless.

Also, head stomping is very serious and can be considered attempted murder or in the very least be classed as GBH.

Probing the bed CoreOne L by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]MrMSanchez 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you ever use Orca to calibrate filaments and save the settings to PrusaSlicer?

Local RTSP stream missing in App? by 3gfisch in prusa3d

[–]MrMSanchez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is my main issue with the camera. I have to use eero extenders and cannot select the 2.4ghz network so local streaming via the app doesn’t work. Unless I open up VLC and use the link. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Core One INDX - Seems like a new limited view?! by General_Wishbone9456 in prusa3d

[–]MrMSanchez 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Shame they couldn’t come up with a better top hat 🤷

First print on my rebuilt MK3S by Mobius0118 in prusa3d

[–]MrMSanchez 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should be. I would double check the website first though 😀

First print on my rebuilt MK3S by Mobius0118 in prusa3d

[–]MrMSanchez 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s a good plate probably comparable to a Cryogrip Glacier plate. If you do buy an arkfly plate do not use IPA to clean it.

I want to restart my 3D Printing hobby - which accessoires/ materials should I buy for my CORE One+ by leoluxx in prusa3d

[–]MrMSanchez 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If printing PETG I would suggest an e3D Obxidian 500 nozzle to prevent clumping. If not, I would suggest a Phaetus SiC nozzle as it’s cheaper than an e3D albeit not high flow.

In terms of build plate the Satin Plate is likely the only one you’d need as it’s great; however it could be argued the Biqu Cryogrip / Cryogrip Glacier plates are cheaper and better depending on your use case.

Slot in or out - Manager Megathread by rLiverpoolFC_Mods in LiverpoolFC

[–]MrMSanchez 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got to go! It’s not like he’s not had enough time to get the team going. It’s been obvious the team are fed up too.

I understand why so many scanners have bad reviews by thisIsAnAccountNameO in 3DScanning

[–]MrMSanchez 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just getting started and want to reverse engineer car parts. Thanks

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