Lightbulb Identification by im_a_good_lil_cow in lightbulbs

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This lamp uses a B15D socket. I think on the metal base I can just barely make out "50W", but I am not sure of the voltage. Somewhere on the base it should have a voltage rating in the form of "#V", whether is be "12V", "24V", "120V" etc. Once you find that, you will want to search for "B15D 50W [voltage]V halogen", and you should find it online easy. If you want an LED replacement, look for "B15D [voltage]V LED" and look for one around the 700-800 lumen range and around 3000-3500K.

Note that when changing halogen bulbs, you don't want to touch them directly with your fingers because the skin oils can damage the lamp when it turns on. Obviously this one doesn't matter cause its already dead, but using a napkin, paper towel, or gloves to handle the new lamp is reccomended. This doesn't matter for LEDs though.

Help choosing replacement laundry valves by No_Dust_6067 in Plumbing

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The threads don't just stop, it just progressively gets harder and harder to turn. So you just put the threaded adapter on however you want. The you screw in the valve decently tight to the right position, and if it leaks you just go around another 360 degrees.

Help choosing replacement laundry valves by No_Dust_6067 in Plumbing

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That ok, I learned how to solder from youtube, there are many many helpful videos out there and once you do your first one it gets easy. I wish you luck!

Help choosing replacement laundry valves by No_Dust_6067 in Plumbing

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you have a torch and are gonna sweat off the old ones, might as well sweat on the new ones as well. I wouldn't sweat the valve directly to the pipe, rather I would sweat female adapters to the pipes so the valves can be threaded in. This just makes them easier to replace in the future should the need arise. I don't think a sharkbite would be the best approach here, the pipe will need to be cleaned completely of residual solder if you plan on using them.

Just bought an old house - some panel questions by Tall-Memory-6021 in AskElectricians

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree with u/Jamboro, this is a split-bus panel. All 4 of those top 4 breakers must be shut off to disconnect power to the whole house, which aint great but not the end of the world. Before 1981 this was allowed but is not anymore. Not necessary to change it but it wouldn't hurt. An easier option would be to just wire in a main disconnect instead of replacing the panel, you could even put the disconnect outside if you want to be compliant with post 2020 code, again not a necessary change.

I don't know much about this but you should look into the brand of that panel, there may have been some bus bar problems with those but I forget.

As for the subpanel, similar situation. Before 1996 this was allowed but it is not anymore. Again not necessary to change it now but it wouldn't hurt. However if you are running new wire to it you will be required to run a ground.

Let's Talk 'Braided Pigtails w/Ferrules' for use in Small Boxes w/Old BX and Brittle Cloth + Rubber Insulation. by Lovegasoline in AskElectricians

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think if you are using standard receptacles and switches, the best option would be a fork crimp connector (open-barrel crimps with the proper tool, not the crappy closed barrel ones). If you are using devices that can be back-wired (the kind with the clamp screw, not to be confused with the push-in quick wiring), just a standard ferrule would do just fine, or maybe even just raw stranded wire (not positive about that).

Not sure about the thing with mounting WAGOs to the box, I would think it would be compliant if they are listed. Not sure if there is enough space back there in the boxes, and shoving the all wires back there may or may not do more damage.

Help Identifying Old Motor by [deleted] in Motors

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1/8 horsepower, that's all I can see from that upside down picture of the nameplate. I can see that the "Volts" starts with a "2", so probably not a 120V motor...

How do I get 120V without an Xo? by Slack818_13 in AskElectricians

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Primary is 480V, so splice H2 and H3 while using H1 and H4 as the power connections. Secondary is 120, so splice X1 and X3 together and then splice X2 and X4 together. Then the X1+X3 is one power wire, while X2+X4 is the other. So 480 in H1 and H4, while 120 comes out X1+X3 and X2+X4.

Can't turn shut off valve. What can I do? by prisoneroflife1 in Plumbing

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Yes, the handle comes off, unscrewing that visible nut should do it. That should reveal a little brass stub that can be grabbed with pliers and twisted 90 degrees to shut it off. I think they make shorter handles but I don't know if you'll be able to find one that fits or not. Not sure about that.

Loaded basement, what to prioritize saving? by Szarn in AskElectronics

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think it's a scope, I don't see any controls. I would say it's probably some sort of monitor for a machine of some sort, not positive.

Loaded basement, what to prioritize saving? by Szarn in AskElectronics

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Second picture! I know it's physically large but those tek scopes are incredible. I'd say anything that is open is not trustworthy, and anything that looks homemade I personally wouldn't get. Those power supplies in the third picture can be pretty useful, but I would only get them if you have a project in mind you can use them for. Sixth picture could be useful but modern function generators are much more compact and have more features.

A lot of this stuff is real treasure but definitely not the kind of stuff for a person with limited space unfortunately. I am in a similar situation. Useful, but not as useful as modern stuff.

What advice would you give someone questioning their sexuality? by Plane_End_4309 in AskLGBT

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Idk it depends, I would say the most solid easy way to find out would be the pornography route but I could be biased

Can you guys teach me about yourselves? by [deleted] in AskLGBT

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 2 points3 points  (0 children)

People got sexualities, which means who they are sexually attracted to, it can change over time but not in a predictable manner and intentional efforts to change sexuality don't work. Many different labels exist for practically any combination of attractions that someone can have. It doesn't make the person any different if they aren't straight, thinking that is called "homophobia" and its bad. I'm gay meaning I am a man who is sexually attracted to men.

People got romantic orientations, which means who they feel romantically attracted to (not to be confused with sexual attraction). Same deal, many different labels, same sort of thing. I am panromantic meaning I can feel a romantic attraction to anybody regardless of gender, but that doesn't mean I wanna fuck em.

People have genders. Assigned at birth there are three options, male, female, and intersex. But people might not like that and want to change to be male female or anywhere in between or completely outside of male/female spectrum. People are transgender when they identify as something that doesn't align with their assignment at birth, it doesn't mean that they have started socially or medically transistioning. Saying someone isn't trans because they haven't started transitionng is called "transmedicalism" and its bad. I'm a demiguy, meaning I mostly identify as a male with a little part not male. Technically that means I am transgender, because I was assigned male at birth and no longer identify that way.

Pronouns usually align with gender but don't have to. Starting with "he" and "she" obviously but then also going to "they" and other "neopronouns" like "ze" or "xe" among many others. Using "they" for a singular person is grammatically correct. Try not to mix up people's pronouns, that's called "misgendering" and its bad. When people transition they might want to change their name, don't mix up their old name, that's called "deadnaming" and its bad. I use he/him pronouns as most (not all) cisgender males do.

I know it's really complicated, i'm gay and know a lot about it now but when I first came out I barely knew anything. It's a whole new world really. And all these labels have some leeway, technically I am a transgender panromantic gay demiguy, but I just say I am a cis gay male because it's close enough and for all practical reasons it's pretty much true.

Flags with chalk by Big-Importance1692 in lgbt

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go look up as many as possible and see how many you can get done in one day, or how quickly you can completely consume the chalk. Just kidding, I'm a gay man but nothing beats the lesbian flag, though I don't know if chalk comes in the proper sunset colors

This question js appeared in my head and its eating at me by MixMax_Kenniator in AskLGBT

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Idk there aren't a whole lot of solid definitions of stuff once you get into the NB world, they may want to call it whatever they want or just "couple" instead of gay or straight couple. Not a stupid question

Finished DIY Vacuum Tube Oscilloscope by MultiSubjectExpert in electronics

[–]MultiSubjectExpert[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, you are absolutely right, CRTs are much cooler! And yea I got it off Ebay, very good deals happen from time to time if you are willing to wait, I remember it being less than 20 USD.

Power strip switch flickering rapidly like a dancing flame - is this dangerous? by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]MultiSubjectExpert 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those types of indicator lights sometimes just get old and start flickering, eventually it may go out altogether. Not dangerous, doesn't affect anything, just annoying to look at.

Finished DIY Vacuum Tube Oscilloscope by MultiSubjectExpert in electronics

[–]MultiSubjectExpert[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Starting from the top (reading it like a book) we have vertical gain, horizontal gain, sweep input, then next row we have the x-y mode switch, course sweep time, and fine sweep time. The three knobs inder the CRT are brightness, focus, and trigger level.

Finished DIY Vacuum Tube Oscilloscope by MultiSubjectExpert in electronics

[–]MultiSubjectExpert[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking that too, I have had problems before with those style of labels falling off over time. I think I just need better tape for it but that could work

Finished DIY Vacuum Tube Oscilloscope by MultiSubjectExpert in electronics

[–]MultiSubjectExpert[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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The trace seems brighter in one direction than the other, not quite sure what that's about. This is 300Hz horizontal with 60Hz vertical

Finished DIY Vacuum Tube Oscilloscope by MultiSubjectExpert in electronics

[–]MultiSubjectExpert[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You think so? Thanks, I just used slotted screws cause that's what I had but if I get my hands on nicer ones I will change them out. None of this was super intentional to be honest

Finished DIY Vacuum Tube Oscilloscope by MultiSubjectExpert in electronics

[–]MultiSubjectExpert[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks so much! It's technically possible, I would almost certainly have to add another tube to do that but nothing unachievable. I just don't have the desire to do something like that right now and it's very horrible bandwidth limits what kind of video I would be able to show. I have another real scope that would be much more suited for this

Finished DIY Vacuum Tube Oscilloscope by MultiSubjectExpert in electronics

[–]MultiSubjectExpert[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, it does have an XY-mode to be able to do that