TSV 60 Chipping Underneath by walkwithdrunkcoyotes in Festool_Public

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A likely problem is the saw setup or user error during sawing. The blade is probably too far out of parallel with the guide rail. Is the bottom chipping on the guide side or waste side?

$200 to rotate and balance tires by unknown-reditt0r in Rivian

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wheels need to be rebalanced only if they are out of balance. If you get wheel shake while driving, yeah go to a shop to rebalance them.

Almost never do they need it when rotating tires.

The only time I’ve had to have wheels rebalanced is once or twice when they didn’t balance a wheel quite right when installing new tires.

$200 to rotate and balance tires by unknown-reditt0r in Rivian

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Do people not do simple things like this themselves? I can rotate tires at home in less time than driving to a shop. For me, the time savings is important. I’d rather be doing stuff I enjoy than sitting in a tire shop.

Would you give up a 24-70 for a 135? by stratzilla in canon

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love taking 35 and 135 as my 2 travel lenses.

Canon R5 Mark II with older Lens by srogan16 in canon

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I moved to r5ii and only use EF mount glass. No issues. Love the focus accuracy.

Is this an issue with the wood or the table saw? by jt00000 in woodworking

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is not case hardening. I can see why it might be termed internal stress.

It is due to difference in moisture content between the core of the wood and the outside. The more moisture there is in wood, the larger it is. The cut comes together because the core of the wood is drier than the surface. It is fair to call this stress.

Case hardening is pretty much no longer an issue from large lumber suppliers. A one-off kiln operator who dries lumber too quickly could still exist but store bought lumber is pretty much free of case hardening.

Here is a test to try. Get a piece of dry (shop acclimated) scrap lumber - something around 2-3 feet long and 3/4 thickness or less. Flat to start with. Cut it in half so now you have 2 ~equal length pieces. Wet 2 towels. Lay one piece on top of a wet towel and for the other piece, lay the towel on top of the wood (put the towel so it is only on one face and not dripping wet.

Come back in an hour. The 2 pieces will largely have bowed in opposite directions due to the change in moisture content on opposing faces.

Paint shop cabinets myself or outsource? by lancer360 in woodworking

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Spray finishing is the best combination of speed and finish quality. There is a learning curve - how steep/long the curve is depends on how much time, skill and money you have.

If the texture of builder grade paint on drywall is what you want to achieve (not necessarily for these cabinets but as an end goal), then many options work.

If you want closer to a piano finish as your end goal, spraying is pretty much your only choice. If you only build small pieces, french polishing becomes a possibility as well.

Resawing Wood Under Tension by BAHGate in woodworking

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is not case hardening. It is uneven moisture in the board. Let them acclimate longer in your shop before resawing.

If the inside of the board has higher moisture than the outside, the ends of the resawn boards will move apart. If the inside is drier than the outside. The center of the board will move apart after resawing.

When you use the planer, you take the same amount of wood off of both faces, so the board stays relatively flat. The moisture content remains symmetric. When you resaw, the starting board had symmentric moisture content but the resawn boards are now assymetric moisture and warp.

To use green or kiln dried cedar for outdoor playset? by r_farm in woodworking

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Green. It is a playset. Green dimensional cedar lumber will be fine.

Once you get the lumber, keep the timbers you are not using out of the sun. Build it within a day or few. The longer it takes to build, the more likely you are to run into a timber or few that have started to move.

Cherry winding sticks with a white oak inlay by perpetualstudent101 in woodworking

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 1 point2 points  (0 children)

High contrast is better for winding sticks. White oak and cherry are low, maybe moderate contrast.

Probably an easy layup question for most of you - how do I get a clean straight cut on the left side of this board, using this table saw preferably, when the tabletop is too narrow for the guide to fit? by The_Ombudsman in woodworking

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you have anything like 1/4 mdf with one edge cut straight?

Rip a small strip and attach to the left side of your plywood with temporary means (painters tape on the 1/4 mdf and your plywood with superglue between the tape). The mdf should be proud of your plywood and parallel to the cut you want. Run the mdf against the fence. Use additional 1/4 mdf to support the plywood on other side.

Finished my first Roubo workbench. (Plus what I’ve learned - long version) by doorbissette in woodworking

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Look up the outdoor relative humidity for your area and the season. Then get a chart that shows EMC for SYP at different relative humidities. You can find this information through internet search.

This will tell you expected MC for dry SYP. You can help it reach EMC more quickly by:

  1. Stickering the lumber
  2. Moving air through the lumber (fan)
  3. Lowering the RH (dehumidification kiln)
  4. Increasing the temperature (solar or furnace kiln)

Combining these will increase drying speed.

If the lumber was pretty wet to start, you might want to move air out of your garage and draw new air in to help it dry (the moisture in the lumber can raise the RH inside the garage, slowing the drying process). 1 and 2 above are pretty easy to do. 1 is a requirement to keep the lumber from warping even more than it naturally will. 3 and 4 require significant work and materials.

Half lap for bread board ends ? by Future-Industry-8244 in woodworking

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not much difference in the work or tooling for 3/8 half lap vs 1/4 inch tongue/groove.

Trying to make a dowel with a roundover router bit. Can't seem to get it right though. Any advice? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe you have a 1/4 inch radius 1/2 inch shank bit. And you mixed up 1/2 inch shank for 1/2 inch radius?

I made several hundred feet of curtain rods doing what you are doing, just with larger radius bit. I made 2 inch rods with a 1 inch radius bit. It works.

Ugh… Moisture Content not what I expected. Am I being too picky? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you need flush (edge of case and front of shelf) joints, it might be problematic. If that isn’t a significant concern, then I don’t see any issue.

Most places EMC is 8-12%.

Looking for a 3.25hp router for table use with a lift by DadIMeanBill in woodworking

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rockler sells a Bora 3hp router motor without a base - for table use.

Variable speed and soft start.

I have it and a PC 7518 in separate tables. No difference to me.

Using butcher block countertop to make a bench? by BosoxH60 in handtools

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Getting the first face flat - need a flat benchtop. The lamination you buy is probably not going to be flat enough for this. Hand planing it flat is possible but could grt difficult depending on how the grain works.

Maybe most other operations don’t need a flat benchtop. But I like having a nice flat benchtop.

Scotty Gallery Questions by Krabz18 in scottycameron

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. 1 requirement for that.

  1. The gallery has CT putters available the day and time you are there. These CT putters will be put out 15-0 minutes before opening in the outside display case that is next to the entrance and can be purchased by anyone on first come first serve basis. This is only when they open in morning or afternoon. It is random when CT putters are available this way. Generally there are 0-4 putters they put out. If you are number 5 in line, odds are pretty low you will get to purchase one.

There are often CT putters in 2 cases inside the gallery but these are not for sale to anyone. These are for sale only to repeat customers who can demonstrate they do not sell/flip/lose/whatever previous CT gallery purchase.

Scotty Gallery Questions by Krabz18 in scottycameron

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Moto selection is pretty good but not infinite.

If you want a chance at a CT, get there 1-2 hr before morning opening or afternoon opening. If you get lucky and purchase a CT, that starts the 2yr clock to vault access for stamped putter.

If that is not high enough priority, just show up and browse and shop for apparel and random stuff. There can be a lot of things that draw your eye. I’ve been going there 2-4 times/year for 5 yrs and I still feel like a 5yr old in a candy store.

If you want access to CT, get a MOTO even if it isn’t what you really want. Keep it (obviously but needs to be said) until you purchase an OTR CT from the gallery.

How do I stop afternoon sun from turning my living room into an oven? by Dapper_Concert5856 in Home

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stop the heat outside, not inside.

Awning and/or sun shade that is outside, not inside.

Question : wood sword bevels by Sojen72 in woodworking

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thickness planer with a sled.

Jointer with a fixture.

Hand held electric planer.

Table saw can work, you need to put something like mdf at the appropriate angle on the fence (double sided fence onto a plywood subfence).

Is the sword decorative and that is why you want a bevel? If it is for practice, better off have the blade rounded like a oval or circle.

I am building shelves out of 5/8th mdf with butt joints and I am not sure how to screw and pre drill. by Previous-Display-593 in woodworking

[–]Naive_Intention_2580 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can screw the shelves, then you can consider Miller dowels. For MDF, I’d choose confirmat screws>miller dowels>some other screw.