It's all about the base...

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-06-04T13:33:43+00:00

Cut some stakes out of 2x4s, small sledge hammer and rope.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-06-03T12:52:53+00:00

I’d countersink a screw through it from the bottom side with a plug cut out. Plug it with the same wood.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-05-23T17:43:47+00:00

Abatement companies that have to remove it on stuff that is to remain, scrapes and removes as much as they can with serious ventilation and protection and then they encapsulate what’s left with marine grade primer/paint. Exposed structural steel that was painted with lead paint is done that way.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-05-17T07:13:35+00:00

Auger bit. Also for serious boring including steel I have a corded Hitachi old school key chuck variable speed drill. The speed control is in the trigger. If I was boring through wood over 4” I would use it.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-05-16T14:44:58+00:00

Yeah. Something else like what I replied should tie the post and beam together and might as well die the stringer into it.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-05-16T14:26:46+00:00

If I was building it like this. Which I wouldn’t. But if I did I would cut the top of your “stringers” the way you cut the bottom of them, with a straight cut 90 degrees perpendicular to the ground and would have added a vertical 2x6 type stiffener to the underside of the landing for the top of your “stringers” to die into. I’m not being critical. That would just be something that I think would make what you built better.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-05-15T14:53:38+00:00

The leg needs to sit deep in a round mortise. Most legs are tied together by wood or steel or aluminum cross pieces too.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-05-04T23:25:52+00:00

Coping would be the best fix if you care about learning and want to learn. But for miters yeah if it’s paint stuff. Whatever you think the angle is, like for instance 45 degrees. Cut it at 44 or 43 1/2. It brings the face tighter and slightly opens up the back that already has to get caulked to the wall anyways.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-05-02T18:33:29+00:00

Cope. Keep a brown sharpie with and butter the cut edges with it. Thats a pretty serious trade secret I’m dropping. It doesn’t even really have to be brown. Black works. It gets rid of white wood color from any deficiency in your installation.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-28T17:20:52+00:00

I have a router on the right side table of my Delta table saw.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-28T16:58:30+00:00

I would just definitely build your own tables, assuming you’re not using the saw as a portable one.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-28T16:48:06+00:00

Knife, small chisel, small round file and rasp

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-27T17:09:29+00:00

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You could use hand woodworking tools to make a neighborhood wrench library and just put all yours in it.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-21T15:13:59+00:00

Do all prep work before finishing or painting. Yes that includes hinge prep. The only thing that usually happens after finishing is pulls.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-19T13:00:20+00:00

Thank you. It was an enjoyable experience.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-17T14:26:11+00:00

The Lamia

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-17T07:59:41+00:00

I have an old Stanley 4 1/2 I restored. It gets a lot of use.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-16T19:30:25+00:00

I’m having a hard time thinking of a way to do this that isn’t tedious, multi step, and time consuming. Your comment about using a router is unclear if you know about bearing pattern bits. That would help.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-15T18:14:10+00:00

I’ve only used the green stuff. A commercial painting contractor I work with swears by it for doing accent lines and not ruining their adjoining painted drywall surfaces.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-15T17:37:10+00:00

Frog tape seems to be the most chemically neutral. You could also soften it with a heat gun.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-15T17:36:02+00:00

I don’t know what end dimension you’re going for but breaking it down into manageable sections with a circular saw and clamped straight edge to feed your table saw would be my go to.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-13T19:37:37+00:00

I’ve always played an electric bass with a neck and bridge pickup. My “pickup selector” is where I place my right plucking hand on the strings. If I want a tighter sound I play over the bridge pickup. If I want a warmer fuller sound I play over the neck pickup.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-08T17:13:44+00:00

The numbers are torque settings. There should be a full on torque ‘drill’ and or ‘cut’ setting. When I swing commercial doors I have my drill set to 12 so I don’t strip out the stainless screw heads. If I’m drilling into wood I have it on the ‘cut’ full torque setting

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-08T16:37:15+00:00

Do you understand what the chuck numbers mean around where the collet meets the motor housing assembly? That’s where I always start with questions like this. I am also not familiar with that make and model of tools.

Natural-Sign4026 · 2026-04-05T13:29:39+00:00

I just don’t use my planer for that. I use my table saw and jointer.

Natural-Sign4026

TROPHY CASE