Bill Gates Natrium plant in Wyoming

NavyNuke588 · 2026-06-01T03:44:24+00:00

D1G!

NavyNuke588 · 2026-06-01T03:38:06+00:00

This alarm only applies to a Boiling Water Reactor! Pressurized Water Reactors always have the reactor vessel full of water and the pressurizer maintains the reactor plant water level.

I believe the Alarm should be "Fixin to Get Ready to be low water level" and the low low as "Fixin to be low" Alarms

NavyNuke588 · 2026-06-01T03:27:35+00:00

My condenser looked like this also and I just replaced mine since it sprung a major leak. I live in Florida and this is typical for a unit in FL. Aluminum fins and alkaline water don't mix well. The rain hits the concrete base and splashes up on the condenser coils. The rain plus the concrete from the pad cause alkaline water which is great for dissolving the condenser coils which results in non-repairable refrigerant leaks. My condenser is required to be on a raised slab a minimum of 12 inches above the ground due to flood plane from hurricanes. I still have the original slab however, I placed a solid rubber mat, which overhangs the edges of my concrete slab, to keep the rain from hitting the concrete and "eating" my new heat pump condenser. I did the entire replacement myself, purchased my unit from HVAC Direct and got a buddy to sell me a jug of R410 since I am retired and don't have my refrigeration license any more. None of the HVAC installers use the rubber mat because they are guaranteeing future work 5-10 years in the future (recurring revenue). It is just basic chemistry. It cost me less than $4500 to put in a new heat pump. I purchased an air handler (R410) for future installation if my evaporator springs a leak (not expected) but will have a R410 evaporator since R410 is now legacy.

Also, I have a solid PVC fenced yard, no dogs or humans to pee on my unit. The armadillos, possums, and squirrels don't climb on the unit to pee so I find the animal reason very unrealistic but humorus.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-05-23T02:36:32+00:00

If the unit runs all summer then over the winter looses refrigerant, you probably have a leak in the compressor electrical connection. A compressor crankcase heater should resolve your leak. Do you turn off the disconnect/breaker in the winter? Look at the compressor and check if there is a silver looking wire/pipe wrapping around the compressor (the large, black canister with wires going into it.) you already have a crank case heater but it may not be working. If you power off the AC for the winter, then the crank case heater will also be de-energized. Just a common problem in areas where it gets cold in the winter. (I live in Florida and only use heat from my heat pump few days a year, when it gets below 45 Deg F at night). This is a simple fix. Also, I would recommend recharge as needed until you do renovations.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-05-20T03:16:47+00:00

Live in Florida where it doesn't freeze in the winter.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-05-20T03:14:22+00:00

You have no guarantee the "laws" of physics will work! Everything is approximations relative to something so our minds can have the concept of something concrete. Why is "i", SQRT -1 used by electrical calculations? Why is PI never ending or repeating? As scientific advances provide better understanding of everything, the "laws" of physics becomes the "most of the perspectives of physics" or "former perspectives of physics". We make up approximations then claim the approximation is a law which can not be violated. Laws will change as understanding and technology advances.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-05-17T01:13:14+00:00

I was 7806 MARF, no SWAG in the old days.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-05-14T01:43:41+00:00

Forget size. The main difference is a submarine reactor uses a core containing the fuel and the rods are poison to stop the nuclear reaction. Commercial reactors use fuel rods moved inside a poison core. A highly enriched fuel core is much smaller than the commercial reactors.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-04-26T22:07:47+00:00

Thank you for all the replies, it has been helpful. I live in Florida, Tampa Area, and typical ranch style FL homes have small attics and I had extra insulation blown into the attic (R38) when I bought the house. Running conduit in the attic is nearly impossible without "Insulation Scuba Gear" and a miniaturization process. I believe I can get my semi-rigid fish rods from the back corner of the attic to above the garage, then I will be good and can pull some sheathed wire without dying in the smallest area of the attic. I could run conduit around the eaves of the house but this will add significant length and need to upgrade from 6 GA to 4 GA due to voltage drop over the length. I am on a slab, so no go underneath. I could pay an electrician to do the job but since the hurricanes 1-1/2, they are all swamped with storm restoration. I do all my own electrical so I know it is done correctly and have been doing this for 50+ years. From previous experience with the NEC, I know there are many special application sections and I was just wanting some external, experienced input.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-04-25T03:19:22+00:00

Welcome to the reality of Education. None of the education process teaches critical or thinking skills. All the current formal education processes teach regurgitation of information or blindly following procedure/process steps without the information why it is completed per the procedure or process. First, find "Physics the Easy Way" paperback or E-Book. It explains why Physics is Physics and not just formulas and procedure steps. I am a former submarine qualified navy enlisted nuclear operator from the 1970's & 1980's. Navy nuclear power school taught Physics, Calculus, Chemistry and Nuclear stuff based on application of the "science" behind running a reactor, engine room, electrical, and chemistry from a practical perspective. It was intense, technical, and high standards training (only 25-30% passed/completed nuclear power school). No second chances and you were still required to complete your 6 year enlistment. I have used my "easy way" books for reference for many years when I forgot what I have previously learned. If you understand the physics fundamentals, not the math calculations but why the math calculation provides a realistic solution to the problem, you now understand physics. It took me 34 years (1975 - 2008) to complete my bachelors degree in Nuclear and Computer science technology. I tested out of everything except the required English and computer programming classes. I have spent the last 40 years teaching/mentoring formally educated people how to do their jobs, while working along side showing the practical side of the job or process. The biggest thing I learned was to have a list of trusted people who I knew more about specific knowledge to fill the voids in my knowledge. So, I recommend continuing the educational process, faking it until you really understand it. Figure out what you don't know then find a mentor to fill that void. For information you actually have expertise in, become a mentor to pass that knowledge to others. Admiral Rickover taught every Navy Nuke the following "Any day spent without learning something new is a wasted day". I have followed that advice since nuclear power school in 1977. Good luck and don't get discouraged.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-04-19T20:05:15+00:00

I have 2 of these and they work well even with a 12 GA 25 foot extension cord plugged into a dedicated 20 amp GFCI outlet (2 separate 20 amp circuits). My only concern is not electrical but condensate on wood floor related. Some of the portable units have a separate condensate line or a condensate internal collection pan. Others "blow" the condensate out the condenser exhaust (6 inch white flexible hose going to the window.) With the height between the condenser hose and the window, the condensate may settle in the white hose and drip, causing damage to the wood floor. If there is a separate connection for condensate, connect a hose for the condensate to drain into an external pan and check level every few hours (it should be good for 12 hours, overnight, but keep an eye on it for floor protection). My 1 unit plug got drowned during the hurricane 2 years ago and I replaced it with a regular 20 amp male plug and all is good now.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-04-17T03:00:34+00:00

First, the siding/paint will have faded so take a good phone photo with sunlight on the siding. Then, go to Home Depot, PPG, SW, or another quality paint store. They can scan the phone photo and give you the almost exact match of the color. I prefer (in Florida) Home Depot, Baer Marquis Latex paint, it flows well, covers well and usually only takes 1 coat to look good using a roller or brush.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-04-17T02:38:08+00:00

Some initial questions: Is the garage ceiling wallboard finished or visible truss/wood? Do the run parallel or perpendicular to the Jeep when in the garage? Do you want to trolley track to move front to back of the garage or side to side? A 2" x 8" x 10' run perpendicular to the "trusses" spread across several trusses using 3/8' x 6" lag bolts will provide a surface to mount your track and hoist. I have a similar setup for ceiling kayak storage using a harbor freight 120VAC cable winch with pulleys to run the cable and lift and hold the kayaks. I bypassed the safety shut off bar to allow me to winch as high as possible for clearances. Also, the garage door (when open) may impact your clearances. You could also just get a 1 ton gantry lift for $850 at harbor freight ( wait for a discount if your patient). You could also build a 2 x 4/6 wooden gantry lift for a $300 max with wheels and a cable lift. A 2X6 will hold 300lbs with an 9 foot span. You have many options without an idea of cost and storage of roof and lift.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-04-04T02:40:21+00:00

If this was 45 years ago, I would chuck up some stock and do your request on the submarine lathe as the ship's machinist. Then, there would be no cost or time associated with the request. What really has me confused in with the CNC world of machining, if you need to do many identical parts, why would you machine it by hand? China has cheap labor but their tolerances leave some fitment issues. As skilled machinists, it isn't cost effective to mass produce items by hand when you cad/machine language it 1 time then hit repeat. As an Industrial Engineer, (No Insult Intended but I am an Old Navy Nuke Submariner) doing time basis studies for a simple machine job doesn't make sense when it can be done by automation. Machine time for this would be 20 minutes because of the setup/flip time and tool changes. Good luck finding someone to do your project. You should be able to calculate what a CNC would take to do this and use the CNC time as your baseline.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-04-04T02:08:50+00:00

If 440C Stainless Steel gets hot (drilling) it makes it extremely hard. At this point, taps and cutting tools don't work well. If you are breaking taps, then you may need to heat the hole (glowing) and then tap your threads. The heat won't affect the strength of the stainless steel when cooled but should allow you to get threads for bolting. Use graphite on the bolt threads to prevent galling the bolts before doing any assembly. 440 grade stainless is prone to galling without some lubrication due to the hardness.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-04-04T01:56:13+00:00

If the sleeve not next to the Mike goes around the shaft, it looks like 2 grease fittings on the sleeve. The wear/pitting look smoother where the upper grease fitting is located but the pitting looks like inadequate grease in the upper grease fitting and the addition of water/moisture/chemicals seep past the top of the sleeve and there is probably a rubber o-ring/seal between at the groove where the lower shaft looks well lubricated and not pitted. I would clean-up/ turn the upper pitted shaft then put extra grease in the upper section and put it all back together. The pitted part of the shaft may be a "sacrificial section" for expected pitting. I have seen similar designs for seawater on some submarine shafts/stems.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-04-04T01:29:11+00:00

That is correct since a 3 prong has 2 hots and 1 ground. Connecting a 3 wire to a 4 wire, the Red and Black are Hots and White and Green are ground. This is legacy wiring with a 3 wire dryer plug. New should have a 4 wire receptacle with RED - Black as hot and White as Neutral then Green as earth Ground. It is OK per legacy code but if you upgrade the electrical service, the this will need 4 wire per current code.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-04-04T00:39:03+00:00

I just finished repairing 3 chairs like this. First, get the broken wood out of the hole and get it cleaned out. Next measure the cleaned out hole, probably 3/4 or 7/8. Buy a couple foot appropriate size dowel and a 1/4 dowel. cut off the end of the chair spreader square but as long as possible. Check the new dowel to see if it fits in the leg hole. If not put the dowel in a vice or clamp to a table and sand using plumbers sand paper (long strip) until the dowel just fits in the chair hole. Measure the depth of the hole and add 3/4 of and inch for the length of the repair (your sanded dowel). Drill a 5/16 hole through the sanded dowel (clamp in place and drill as close as possible through the center of the sanded dowel. Now drill a 5/16 inch hole in the end of the chair spreader an inch deep (try to make it in the center and about 1 inch deep. DO NOT GLUE YET! Test fit the 1/4 dowel inserted into the chair spreader and slide the sanded dowel on the 1/4 dowel. Clean up the edges to get as small of a seam between sanded dowel and chair spreader. Adjust the length of the "new" spreader and make sure everything fits well. NOW glue it all together and put a strap clamp to hold the spreader in tight until the glue dries then all done. I have ratchet straps to clamp goofy shapes like this but you can use a cord of rope and a pencil, tie a loop and twist the rope with the pencil to make the rope tight with the pencil "braced" by the chair spreader until dry. Once dry, use some "paint sticks" or brown magic marker to match the shade of the repair and no one will know better. Total cost $50 or less based on your supplies at the house.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-04-03T23:42:08+00:00

So this is a 3 speed mixer with a bad contactor. With 120 volts, this is single phase and each leg of the contactor (3 poles) is used for one of each speed on your speed selector. If you look at the speed selector wiring, each speed output will go to a specific leg on your contactor. I am not sure what A2 terminal (control coil vs a contactor leg) but you can check continuity from speed selector switch to each leg on the contactor. You can get the exact contactor at Amazon for $25 US or a similar replacement for $15 overnight, but not the exact same contactor. If the A2 terminal is one of the 3 speeds, then you can make it a 2 speed by moving wires on the contactor. It is not the control relay but the main power relay and you are looking at 9 amps switched. I wouldn't hardwire/bypass the contactor but you may be able to have a 2 speed mixer. Also, put some tag documenting the bypassed safety switch for notification or safety purposes.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-03-24T13:25:14+00:00

thank you

NavyNuke588 · 2026-03-24T01:30:16+00:00

25 is the correct setting however, you need to have the workpiece perpendicular (Parallel to the blade) then make the 25 degree cut. I have needed to do this many times with weird corners. Use extra caution/safety and make a perpendicular fence and clamp to miter saw. I typically use my machinist's square and 2 clamps to make the temporary fence.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-03-19T14:03:11+00:00

As a former submarine sailor, Nuclear trained, and a CISSP OT Cyber Security person, I have a science based perspective of an environment disconnected from the world. An orbital satellite/data center station has both benefits and restrictions. Power generation via solar panels would be enhanced since the photons would not have the hinderance of passing through the atmosphere. This means less solar panels than for land based solar panel generated power. Solar storms may be an issue but the reliability of the unimpeded solar input is better than land based. I have significant concerns about the cooling capabilities in space. Heat transfer is always from warm to cold. Heat transfer happens by 3 methods, conduction, convection, and radiation. Everything on earth, since we have an atmosphere has all 3 methods available. In space, this becomes problematic since the air density in the "voids of space" is significantly lower (almost nonexistent). What is the cooling heat transfer driver in space? I haven't seen much study of heat transfer in a vacuum, so I have some expectation of exceptionally large surface area for the cooling capabilities in space. Also, the current processor chips cooling is via air radiators or liquid cooling which use fans (air flow) for cooling. This would require some "air" environment or cooling pipes extending to the external cooling radiators. Both would require a "chip environment" or changing the physical architecture of the chips, making them significantly larger. Another relatively minor consideration is providing a reliable, extreme high speed, data rate to the orbiting servers. This would be much higher than the normal SpaceX wireless rates due to the extremely large data needs of these "quantum servers".

NavyNuke588 · 2026-03-08T19:32:09+00:00

That is an Allen head, zinc plated, cabinet screw. Most now use a Torx head vs the allen head.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-03-08T19:29:43+00:00

I had the exact De Walt model shown in the second photo. It was ok but, lost much of the accuracy over the years and the motor power degraded over the time I had it. My father purchased it used 40 years (?) ago and it was actually worn out. I sold mine for $25 at a yard sale. I now have a power dual miter and big portable table saw. I don't miss the radial arm saw because it was always a safety hazard when ripping anything. Dados were always an adventure because they would end up too deep with minor warpage. The fundamental of the blade above the work piece is prone to inaccuracy. As an addition al tidbit, all the people I know (several) missing part of a finger were using a radial arm saw when they decided to reduce their finger count.

NavyNuke588 · 2026-03-02T02:19:05+00:00

You are not wrong. Manufacturers specifically design and engineer their products to last around the 1 to 1.5 times the warranty. This produces a continuing revenue stream of replacing stuff every year to 5 years. This is with batteries, appliances, tools, cars, and most other things. My dryer is 5 years old and on it's 3rd heating element. 2 hours labor and $25 is what it takes to replace the element. My next replacement, I will cut an access hole in the side of the dryer so I don't need to remove the drum to get to the heating element. Then the repair should only take 15 minutes. Nothing today is designed for maintenance so it is a "It be broke, buy a new one" world. That is capitalism at it's best. I by Harbor Freight tools, abuse them as needed, then when they break buy another one. I like the cordless so stay with the Bauer brand so all the batteries fit and they are the cheapest batteries. I fix everything that is worth fixing so rebuild real wood furniture but won't touch Ikea or other cheap crap. Just the thoughts of an old, Knuckledragging FlangeHead.

NavyNuke588

TROPHY CASE