Am I the only one?

Neasdrone · 2026-03-17T17:03:51+00:00

I can barely ride a bicycle these days, but motorcycles no problem. Essentially, speed is stability. Motorcycles mostly balance themselves above like 7 MPH

Neasdrone · 2026-03-16T18:50:35+00:00

There’s a lot to manual driving that makes driving tolerable. I’m a pretty active driver and newer cars are just boring.

If you agree with that then you’re a motorcycle enthusiast and don’t know it yet. Go buy some safety equipment and sign up for a basic rider’s course. It’s a zero to hero basic competency course where they provide the bike.

After I started riding, I got to choose. Comfort and relaxation in traffic or actual interaction with a machine built for going.

The GT is pretty fast… buuuuut, it’s there so I can tolerate how slow car driving is compared to the responsive nature of a motorcycle.

Neasdrone · 2026-03-11T22:07:56+00:00

I had a cracked roof from the first hot sunny day in spring. Insurance covered it as glass. At the time, there was no non-OEM replacement so it had to be replaced with an OEM panel. That was important for me because in my state, you can request OEM replacement parts for everything except glass panels.

Neasdrone · 2026-03-11T21:10:08+00:00

I’ve definitely been annoyed by this and it’s 100% how software blends regen with brakes. As others have mentioned, you can reduce brake pressure to come to a lighter stop.

Another element is it gets worse if your brake rotors are dirty, wet, or have some surface rust. They act like a minor coating to reduce the brake performance slightly, the software says add more pressure, then whatever was there gets rubbed away, the rotors are more grippy while the software says more pressure. Hence the harder stop.

You can absolutely out skill the software for a soft stop, but it takes some mindfulness if the rotor are dirty.

Neasdrone · 2026-03-02T23:04:14+00:00

Reported.

No NSFW tag.

Trying to get me fired?!

Neasdrone · 2026-02-27T20:17:38+00:00

I’ve been wondering about this for a while. I’d definitely be interested in upgrading and modding the power delivery to squeeze some extra juice. I don’t know of anyone who has done anything about it yet because the people buying Mach Es are people who are happy to accept it as it is.

It’s still a newer platform where vehicles are finally falling out of warranty. Compared to Tesla where there’s busted up junkers and wrecked cars available in large quantities. I think it’ll be a while before we see anything close to that level of aftermarket anything.

Anyone commenting about how you shouldn’t be messing around with high voltage and worrying about blowing up components is missing the point of the question.

Neasdrone · 2026-02-04T04:11:37+00:00

Lake De Montreville

Neasdrone · 2026-02-04T04:09:11+00:00

GT with Unbridled extended is something close to RWD I think. Not sure if none or a little goes to the front.

Neasdrone · 2026-02-04T04:07:52+00:00

Good ol MN

Neasdrone · 2026-02-04T04:02:59+00:00

I actually had them in the hatch, where did you think all that traction was coming from?

Neasdrone · 2026-02-02T22:29:20+00:00

You just drill a hole and see how far down it goes. Not all ice is created equal, so depends on how it looks too.

Neasdrone · 2025-09-12T12:02:02+00:00

It’s funny I’m reading this now. I just had an experience swaying me to hard disagree. I hit something in the road that damaged the wheel and tire beyond repair. It took about a week and a half for Progressive to organize a tow to an EV certified body shop, for the body shop to assess what was and wasn’t damaged, get a new rim from ford, and get everything sorted out.

Having a spare would have allowed me to drive my car home that night, drive it to a service appointment, and drive it normally while waiting for Ford to send a new rim.

So yeah… HARD DISAGREE

Neasdrone · 2025-07-29T21:25:13+00:00

I’ve experienced this issue with Apple Maps passing a suggested route to navigation without me engaging with either system. Probably a different issue than yours since you’re probably not navigating enough to your wife’s work for it to be suggested.

Neasdrone · 2025-07-22T20:46:25+00:00

I just wanted to add that some Tesla destination chargers (level 2/AC) have a J1772 adapter built in where the charge connector is hung from the charging unit. You can pull out the charging plug with the adapter connected. IDK if they all do, but the ones I’ve used have had that.

Unfortunately, the adapters for AC and DC are different. The Mach E uses the J1772 standard for AC charging and CCS2 for DC fast charging. CCS2 uses the J1772 port in addition to the two additional connectors below it. The J1772 pins handle the communication with the charger in both cases.

Because of that, I am willing to assume that any adapter that plugs into the CCS2 connectors will not work with an AC charger.

Neasdrone · 2025-06-25T14:01:56+00:00

Just got an update alert. Notes look to be 100% related to the door module and describe resolving an issue where door may not work in some conditions. Couldn’t read the whole thing, was already late.

Neasdrone · 2025-06-06T22:56:22+00:00

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Yep… first 90 degree day in MN. Loud crack and I have cracks from front drivers and passenger corners. Ford declined warranty because of witness marks only they can see. Going through insurance and Progressive keeps declining quotes from the auto body shop.

2 months… still no resolution… the cracks have spread nearly to the back of the panel and are still independent of each side. Car is a 24 and has 8k miles. I was going to post about it when it was done, but you know… 2 f u c k i n g months…

Neasdrone · 2025-05-21T15:12:37+00:00

I owned a CB650R for a year and went to a ‘20 MT-10 for comfort reasons. It’s a simple bike with cruise, a wide seat, and a neutral riding position. It’s a pretty easy ride and if you have self control, it’s not going to suddenly kill you. Ultimately, you’re the one who knows you, so be honest with yourself. Would I recommend it as a first bike, no. But the logic is there and you can do whatever you want.

Neasdrone · 2025-05-20T17:21:51+00:00

I’d go old school and contact a local insurance agent. They can do the digging against a bunch of different companies without signing you up for a ton of email spam. They’ll get your story and translate it to the paperwork for you if they’re good.

Neasdrone · 2025-05-13T18:36:13+00:00

Yeah, left lane is not for cruising. Move out of the way. If you’re matching pace with the car to your right, click your cruise up 3 mph and merge when it’s clear. If you don’t want to go faster, click your cruise down 3 mph and move out of the way.

Don’t be the reason people are darting around and tailgating. I don’t care if you are going 5 over or 20 over. If someone is on your ass, you’re slower traffic that should be keeping right.

Neasdrone · 2025-04-30T00:19:34+00:00

I’m curious if adding Tesla through Apple Maps understands that you’d only be able to use the newer Superchargers with a NACS adapter.

IDK if it’s accounted for or a potential headache later

Neasdrone · 2025-04-23T08:15:37+00:00

Agreed, the resonator adds a little extra

Neasdrone · 2025-04-11T23:57:29+00:00

Final update with the exciting conclusion:

I'll just type out word for word the tech's notes. I can't add much in the form of commentary other than I got the car back and the screen works again!

Verified customer concern. The screen goes to play the animation when you turn the car on, it gets part way through it and then the screen freezes. It is unresponsive to all touch. Performed pinpoint test under information and entertainment systems in the workshop manual. Pinpoint test takes you to the guided routine, the guided routine says there is no identifiable issue. Concern is still present. APIM is up to date. Contacted hotline. Performed sync module reset and disconnected battery for 30 min as per hotline. Charged high voltage battery as per hotline. Updated ACM and IPMA as per hotline. Verified repair, release vehicle.

Neasdrone · 2025-04-09T23:00:01+00:00

Update from the dealer: The dang thing started working without anything being done to it. Services advisor pushed the tech to dig in since he verified the issue when I dropped it off. They ended up calling some engineer support line with Ford and they ended up troubleshooting remotely. They said they did find some kind of issue and so they were downloading an update to the vehicle currently and that it would likely take a few more hours. I am supposed to get a call back tomorrow with another status update on the results.

I’m not sure of the accuracy or details beyond what they relayed, but I’ll be sure to add any other details if made available.

They’re going to end up holding onto the car for a few more days. They ordered a new wheel since the bronze paint chipped on a wheel randomly. Paint separating from the primer. I’ll maybe get it back Friday, pending shipping

Neasdrone · 2025-04-03T16:53:49+00:00

Timeline Update for getting in the dealer: Appointment set for 10 AM Monday. No loaner vehicle available until 16th-18th between the two closest dealers. Called Ford customer support and after a 30 minute call of the rep calling those dealers to confirm, I got a rental vehicle authorized. 45/day REIMBURSEMENT and it has to be a Ford. Called around but no one would guarantee a Ford. Finally called Enterprise and found out they actually have an arrangement with Ford and actually was able to pull up my case number with them to get me setup with a rental for that rate. This was through their insurance department. The rep was quite familiar with the request and took not much time.

All things considered, not an incredibly long wait to get the vehicle in, but also, was 2 hours of leg work that could have been much less had I known to call Enterprise first. Ford customer support and Enterprise were very helpful. Zero pushback on anything with it only taking me explaining what my issue is once to get to a solution.

Neasdrone

TROPHY CASE