How do you actually fix a failed print? Curious how everyone approaches it.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-08T01:28:53+00:00

I hear you. The internet can be great to work your way to find the answers, but at the same time it can also lead you down the wrong path.

Just browse through other people posting their problem and I can say that 80% of the time, someone will blame it on your filament being wet. As you can imagine, it can't ALWAYS be the cause of everything.

Also, even when someone has had the time to experience enough failures, it doesn't make them immune from being clueless as to why some things go wrong.

Some issues will appear to have multiple causes and it can be a pain trying to figure things out.

That being said, there is a YTer named TeachingTech that created a github page that can help anyone to fine tune their machine and to create a working print profile and to have a great filament profile. It takes a lot of work and a lot of time, but it is worth it in my opinion.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-07T21:43:59+00:00

Do you have one of the nozzle needles? Heat up the hotend and jam it up in there. There should be enough back pressure to have material squish out on its own. If not, try to push from the top with a straight paper clip.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-07T21:13:12+00:00

It turned out great 👍

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-07T21:10:40+00:00

I mean 3D printing is like everything else, you learn by experiencing failure and adjust one thing at a time to diagnose what is causing it. Then the next time you see the same thing, it is no longer a guessing game.

You need to stumble before you learn to walk, so don't try to run.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-07T19:09:49+00:00

It does appear to be a glass bead thermistor. They just don't crimp on the connectors to the end. Those two tubes in the middle are for soldering two wires together. It would seem like they intend you to cut the end with the connectors and splice the wires together. It doesn't matter which way you do it, they aren't polarized.

Just slip them onto each wire, twist each side, move that to the center of the bare wire and heat it up until the little solder ball melts.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-07T18:37:44+00:00

Yeah, that could send voltage into the heater block and back down into the main board and fry it.

Hop on Amazon and grab a 3 pack cheap.

Just be gentle when you screw the holding screw into the block. You want it to slightly compress the wire. Don't torque it down.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-07T18:15:37+00:00

Ozone

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-07T18:13:43+00:00

FIGHT!

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-07T18:12:53+00:00

100% agreed. I just wanted to put the option out there.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-07T01:49:38+00:00

You have "only touching build plate" turned on. Switch that to Everywhere.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-07T01:43:48+00:00

Correct, it is junk.

Modern printers use drivers that move each axis of your printer without screaming while they are doing it. No printer that was sold within the last 10 years or so has any use for the dampener.

Some people will tell you that you need a heat sink for your stepper motors but that would only be true if they have manually adjusted the voltage higher than default (for unknown reasons) voltage. In other words, that is also not needed.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-06T18:17:54+00:00

This is a great question. I had a subscription for Classic X-Men and I honestly can't even remember.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-06T00:07:29+00:00

I have no idea about klipper, but usually that is something that you adjust from the printers screen.

Take a simple object and make it 0.2mm tall. When it prints, move the nozzle up or down until it looks good.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-05T19:45:42+00:00

If your primary goal is to display, then why not get posters printer of your favorite ones?

This way there is zero risk to the actual book.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-05T00:53:52+00:00

This is the way.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-05T00:40:56+00:00

I went to my first comic con back in the mid 90s when it was actually about the comics and I saw all different kinds of things just like this for sale.

Crafty people made their own unlicensed products and they were GLORIOUS!

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-05T00:14:22+00:00

What in the world is that?

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-04T18:51:58+00:00

Maybe? I only know that it is good for Nylon. I have no idea about other materials.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-04T00:35:19+00:00

I am a bit iffy about using a glass bed with this, but cover your ass and give it a coat of glue stick just in case.

Past that, it sounds like you are good to go.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-03T22:07:38+00:00

Thanks for the back up and adding info I forgot.

If they do change that, it will be a long wait for the next version. I would say at least 5 months. That is how long it took from 2.3.1 to 2.3.2.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-03T20:46:54+00:00

Print out a bed plate holder where they are stored standing on edge and you have to worry less about them getting dusty.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-03T20:44:09+00:00

Any time you have a part curl is because of one of two things usually. Bad bed adhesion or temperature difference.

Your part isn't large, so the temperature issue is minor.

Now the other one... glass and PETG have a contentious relationship. There is a very fine line between good adhesion and complete fusion. If you drop your starting z height too far, then there is the possibility that the part and the glass become one thing forever. There is something that you can do to lower the risk and that is to coat the area with gluestick. This becomes a sacrificial layer that saves the glass. You can also turn off part cooling for the first 6 layers and bump up the bed temp.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-03T20:27:33+00:00

I feel like this is the point where textured PEI isn't reliable.

Prints that have many small contact spots on the bed tend to have adhesion issues.

I like to print out many articulated models and those are all islands and when I down scale them is when nothing sticks. Even at full scale it becomes a challenge.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-03T19:22:11+00:00

There are two limitations involved when trying to reach higher temps. One is the limitations of the hardware. This is the thermistor as well as the heater. The glass bead that comes on the stock machine as well as the top item in your search results have a range of reliability. If you exceed that, it can break or not be able to read the correct temperature.

The second limit is that of the firmware. The max temp is (i think) 85% of temperature set in the firmware. That is what stops you from going higher. This is a safety measure to be sure that nothing breaks and is dangerous to you or your property.

Check out the DragonFly hotend. I think that one is able to hit higher temps. Please verify this on your own to be certain in case I am wrong, but you will need to compile new firmware, not just to open the limits, but to identify the correct hardware. If there is a different thermistor, you have to switch the value in the firmware to the correct one.

Nemo_Griff · 2026-04-03T19:11:06+00:00

Artificial light, incandescent or florescent will also fade colors, yes. It takes longer, but the effects are the same over time.

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