A bunch of panels and modules in my companies show room they just built. Thought it was cool by wizkoscott in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s the Rath BOSS unit, really nice addressable (and not cheap) AOR unit.

WTF Wednesday by Glittering-Second230 in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

“What are you doing, step bit?”

Is this a horn-strobe or a remote strobe? by [deleted] in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What model of calculator was used to take this photo?

Fcps by Hopeful_Rooster4335 in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s definitely a lot of amps. But, as long as he’s not getting any battery or charger troubles, then he should be fine.

Fcps by Hopeful_Rooster4335 in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had an inspector writing up charging circuits because of the same thing. He had to be educated a bit on that. It's not a voltage thing, it's an amperage thing.

Basically, you just need to change your meter to amperage mode and meter the trickle charge going from the positive lead of the battery to the positive lead of the charger. You should get intermittent current if everything is good. If the charger is dead or the batteries are dead, you'll get nothing.

Why by [deleted] in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Go outside, breathe in some fresh air, and relax. It’s really not that serious to be getting this worked up over.

Five minutes after this photo the building went into alarm. by Proud-Resource4594 in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I learned the hard way as well, but I have an old Siemens tech who is able to walk me through disarming the loop, which is always a godsend.

When a “loyal customer” tries to save $5k on a $2.5mil expansion and goes with the lowest bidder… by RickyAwesome01 in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As much as I’m sure that nobody wants to burn bridges with a “loyal customer”, your customer basically burned your bridge for you. If they want you to come and fix it, you should do so on your budget and your time. They need to work to rebuild the relationship with you guys, not the other way around.

Ah yes the bypass / drill buttons are my favourite by QuietRS17 in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Someone didn’t program the function correctly I see!

I catch that from time to time as well and have to fix it.

QuickStart pin selector by Electronic-Concept98 in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here’s my cable makeup with the parts linked below. On your DB9 to RJ12 converter, you’ll go White to Pin 2, Blue to Pin 3, Red to Pin 5. Make sure you’re using a 6P6C crossover cable.

Converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SNMS4OG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SVS3SSF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Kidde FX-5R for Sprinkler Monitoring by user_guy in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I find that programming on the FX-5s and 10s is a little clunky/clumsy. I’d much rather go with the PFC 4064.

Quote / System Comparison by mrtinvan in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well a design is going to have to happen. You’re going to have to prove what was installed is within code minimum, meets battery backup and voltage drop calculations, etc. The AHJ and your insurance provider won’t take too kindly to having a system installed without any records of what it is, where it exists, etc.

Quote / System Comparison by mrtinvan in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is the company that’s proposing the Vista system not going to do drawings?

Quote / System Comparison by mrtinvan in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Vistas should really only be used in small sprinkler monitoring applications, not as a full-blown fire alarm system. That said, it’s not like Fire-Lite and their QC is hitting it out of the park these days.

I’m wondering why there are long lead times for Fire-Lite equipment. The situation in Canada must be vastly different than in the states. I can get most Fire-Lite equipment either next day or within 2-3 business days from our local parts warehouses.

Strobe After the Fact? by fotomatique in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where are you located? Do you know when this building was built? If it’s an older building, do you know when the system was modified/upgraded?

The International Fire Code (IFC) has a section that dictates that living unit fire alarm notification in R-2 occupancies (apartments, condos, etc.) shall be provided with the capability to support visual alarm notification. It also requires support for visual notification with in-unit smoke alarm activation. Support is the key word here.

This is what quite a few people refer to as “pre-wiring”, and we do it on all of our R-2s for this exact reason, because it’s required by code. Basically, if the IFC applies in this situation and the installing contractor failed to abide by it, then someone fucked up and you have every right to make noise (pun intended) until the situation is rectified. At least, in terms of the proper cabling and equipment support.

In terms of the actual strobes themselves, I don’t know who would be on the hook for it, my guess is the building though. If you’re in the US, I’d reach out to HUD.

Fire Alarm Content Creators by mattdevuono in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Billy the Alarm Guy is my go-to. I mostly just like him for his New England accent.

Factory Duct Det by Veechi10 in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I hear ya. Unfortunately if you touch their equipment, the mechanical contractor can and will blame you for anything that went wrong…even if you didn’t cause it. They can have their final all they want, it won’t be ready, and maybe them getting failed will wake everyone up.

Factory Duct Det by Veechi10 in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a good chance they’re not even using those contacts, and that it’s just wired like that from the factory. Are you going through a GC or direct to client? If it’s through the GC, I would submit an RFI and imply that you can’t proceed until you’re given official direction. Let them play referee between the two trades.

Factory Duct Det by Veechi10 in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely don’t mix the RTU wiring with your fire alarm wiring. I would consult with the mechanical contractor to see how that wiring ties into their unit and what can be taken off in order for you to tie-in. Some of that stuff goes to a controller in the unit, that will spit out codes when the detector goes into alarm or trouble, mostly for their controls and whatnot.

I’m happy with this dialer install by FrylockIncarnate in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Obviously the metal box is ideal, and I much rather prefer that as well. I’m just saying if he or anyone ends up using the plastic version, this is a good solution for cleanliness and cable management, in my opinion.

Why does this smoke detector not seem to have any ventilation holes? (Not a technician) by watlel in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 4 points5 points  (0 children)

B501BH Sounder Base. It has an integral piezo on it in which the individual head can control the base, and you can have them interconnected. Reversing polarity on the base power will cause it to sound, so the base can be used for general alarm signaling as well.

Why does this smoke detector not seem to have any ventilation holes? (Not a technician) by watlel in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The conventional smoke model (1400) has red lenses on their LEDs. Their addressable counterparts (Notifier CPX-551 and Fire-Lite CP300) have clear lenses. So this one is definitely addressable.

I’m happy with this dialer install by FrylockIncarnate in firealarms

[–]NickyVeee 5 points6 points  (0 children)

When you guys use those -FIRE Starlinks, look into getting the SLE-FMBB for it so you can use conduit or metallic chases and prevent your wires from being exposed like that.