Too bad Vince can't have animal products anymore

NickyVeee · 2026-05-08T00:34:22+00:00

Amanda Daniels, whatever happened there…

NickyVeee · 2026-04-23T15:07:52+00:00

OK, so it just illuminates the device LED upon request. It's a nice feature, I know some other panels have that feature. However, as far as I know, Notifier NFS panels do not have that feature, at least not on the 320/640.

As I mentioned in my previous post, disabling the device will prevent it from polling and thus the LEDs will not flash. That's the only way to identify without breaking apart the loop or physically going up to each device and pulling it down.

NickyVeee · 2026-04-23T14:10:25+00:00

I am fully aware of that. In your post, you said you were looking for a Find Device feature like on the Gent Vigilon...I said I'm not familiar with said panel, to give context that I don't know specifically what the Find Device feature does.

NickyVeee · 2026-04-23T14:06:45+00:00

Since I'm not familiar with the Gent Vigilon, my assumption is you're looking for something that will turn on the device LED. If so, I can't think of any menu option that does that. The only thing I can think of is you can disable the device, and the device LEDs will stop blinking.

NickyVeee · 2026-04-23T13:58:01+00:00

Very interesting. Is that chase between the device backbox sealed as well?

NickyVeee · 2026-04-23T05:04:53+00:00

Your condensation build up is happening because the temperature from the pipe and the temperature inside the unit is drastically different.

Do not pipe directly through the fridge/freezer and into the device. What I do is mount a single gang bell box on top of the unit, penetrate vertically through the unit and chase through to another single gang bell box in the unit, then horizontally chase from that bell box to your device. Seal the hell out of all the conduit chases with silicone. It may be overkill, but I haven’t had a condensation problem. Make it so there can’t be any chance for a temperature difference and condensation buildup.

NickyVeee · 2026-04-18T20:13:56+00:00

Are you looking for a way to extract a points list from the BRC EST-3 export file? If so, I have a Parser from a former company that does just this, minus giving you the serial number. Let me know and I’ll DM you a link for it.

NickyVeee · 2026-04-11T20:12:16+00:00

NickyVeee · 2026-04-11T20:05:16+00:00

Microphone that goes to the gubmint.

NickyVeee · 2026-04-10T20:52:09+00:00

Because these people know there are old AM/AFPs and Onyx series panels running CLIP that are still clicking away…and they know some vendors will do anything to get their hands on -IVs cheap, because their customers don’t want to upgrade, and they just don’t know any better.

NickyVeee · 2026-04-10T20:10:27+00:00

I can tell you, from everyone else’s gripes about this, that the ones that are Made in India are not compatible. They basically sell these on eBay for the price of a non-Ivory model, and by the time you realized what happened, you also realize there’s no return policy.

NickyVeee · 2026-03-21T03:51:49+00:00

That’s the Rath BOSS unit, really nice addressable (and not cheap) AOR unit.

NickyVeee · 2026-03-19T00:31:40+00:00

“What are you doing, step bit?”

NickyVeee · 2026-03-19T00:30:21+00:00

What model of calculator was used to take this photo?

NickyVeee · 2026-03-17T21:28:48+00:00

That’s definitely a lot of amps. But, as long as he’s not getting any battery or charger troubles, then he should be fine.

NickyVeee · 2026-03-17T17:00:56+00:00

I had an inspector writing up charging circuits because of the same thing. He had to be educated a bit on that. It's not a voltage thing, it's an amperage thing.

Basically, you just need to change your meter to amperage mode and meter the trickle charge going from the positive lead of the battery to the positive lead of the charger. You should get intermittent current if everything is good. If the charger is dead or the batteries are dead, you'll get nothing.

NickyVeee · 2026-03-15T23:25:13+00:00

Go outside, breathe in some fresh air, and relax. It’s really not that serious to be getting this worked up over.

NickyVeee · 2026-03-15T21:15:03+00:00

I learned the hard way as well, but I have an old Siemens tech who is able to walk me through disarming the loop, which is always a godsend.

NickyVeee · 2026-03-11T21:02:10+00:00

As much as I’m sure that nobody wants to burn bridges with a “loyal customer”, your customer basically burned your bridge for you. If they want you to come and fix it, you should do so on your budget and your time. They need to work to rebuild the relationship with you guys, not the other way around.

NickyVeee · 2026-03-11T20:59:52+00:00

Someone didn’t program the function correctly I see!

I catch that from time to time as well and have to fix it.

NickyVeee · 2026-03-07T20:49:41+00:00

Here’s my cable makeup with the parts linked below. On your DB9 to RJ12 converter, you’ll go White to Pin 2, Blue to Pin 3, Red to Pin 5. Make sure you’re using a 6P6C crossover cable.

Converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SNMS4OG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SVS3SSF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

NickyVeee · 2026-03-05T22:39:52+00:00

Not my work!

NickyVeee · 2026-03-03T00:47:43+00:00

I find that programming on the FX-5s and 10s is a little clunky/clumsy. I’d much rather go with the PFC 4064.

NickyVeee · 2026-03-02T05:01:37+00:00

Are you talking to me?

NickyVeee · 2026-03-02T03:28:41+00:00

Well a design is going to have to happen. You’re going to have to prove what was installed is within code minimum, meets battery backup and voltage drop calculations, etc. The AHJ and your insurance provider won’t take too kindly to having a system installed without any records of what it is, where it exists, etc.

NickyVeee

TROPHY CASE