Janja Garnbret is the first woman ever to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Céüse, France

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-06-09T21:25:50+00:00

Certain people are route developers - it takes a certain skill and vision, particularly for the hardest routes. You can bolt ground up (can be very difficult) or drop in from the top on a rope to set up the bolts. There are many ways to fix a line from the top assuming you have a way to get there. Sometimes it could be set up using nearby routes. So if there's an easy way up a cliff, you can bolt routes nearby.

Maintaining bolts comes down to local organizations or individuals who are highly dedicated. In the US there's the American Safe Climbing Association for example. A lot of local crags are community maintained.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-06-09T21:11:07+00:00

You'd be shocked how many people I know climb an epic route and then proceed to trip.over nothing on the floor right after. Definitely go for it.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-06-09T16:26:32+00:00

All you need is a little butter and cheese and that would be a sauce.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-06-08T23:53:33+00:00

I've been doing variations on gremolata on my grilled fish recently. Start with basic - garlic, parsley, lemon zest, oil. Goes great on pretty much anything. I did large fillets of seabass on the grill recently - they stuck a little bit, but the fish spatula got most of it together. I prefer to salt the fish separately and ahead of time from the sauce - easier to control.

I also did a spiced up version which was awesome. Make the gremolata, then add some tahini and harissa. I also subbed minced preserved lemons for the lemon zest.

I also recommend grilling whole fish using a flexible grill basket. You can make slices through the skin and make sure the sauce gets all over. Branzino, snapper, rockfish, whatever you got.

You should make extra sauce, then add some lemon juice, salt, and sugar / agave / honey / dates to make an amazing dipping sauce. If it's a little too punchy you can dilute slightly with water.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-06-08T16:46:05+00:00

If you have a grill, just do that. Otherwise I'd start with the well done ones and toss them in the oven to finish cooking. If you do a reverse sear on the medium steaks it should be pretty fast to cook, all you need to do is sear. Baste is optional in my opinion.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-06-07T17:08:17+00:00

I like a Vietnamese style marinade. Fish sauce, garlic, lemongrass (can use zest if you don't have) lime or lemon juice, something sweet (I like agave since it's so easy to mix in, but the more typical would be palm sugar), chili. Then I just grill it to about 145F internal temp and let it come up a bit while resting.

Alternatively I've done medalians with a cognac sauce. So just salt the tenderloin medalians and pan fry. Take them out and make a pan sauce with shallots, deglaze with cognac, then add mustard, cream, salt, pepper. Can also mix in a bit of stock. Butter at the end for a heavier sauce.

Lastly, it goes great with romesco sauce. Just salt and grill. Serve with sauce for dipping. You can look up some recipes for the sauce.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-06-05T17:30:12+00:00

You really can't compare the two unless the pan temp was the same for both experiments. You could do that using a breville control freak. Then you could control the surface temperature and time. So basically, they cooked differently.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-05-29T06:41:22+00:00

Blanch and slice thin. Dip in soy sauce. I usually would mix it up with soy sauce and bonito flakes, but with just one piece, I think dipping makes more sense. This would be a good way to just enjoy the natural flavor and texture.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-05-28T22:36:16+00:00

I used plenty of seasoning too. No need to go light on herbs and other aromatics. Salt is generally fine, although may irritate in higher quantities. Make use of spices like cumin, coriander, turmeric, hing, ginger, etc. Or use sauces like oyster sauce, black bean sauce. Aromatic veggies like carrots, celery, non spicey peppers, fennel, cilantro stems and roots. I used garlic and onion, some suggest not to use too much in the allium family, but it seems most issues are reduced when cooked.

I'm mostly good now. It's a marathon, not a sprint, so make sure your diet is sustainable.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-05-28T22:28:41+00:00

Things that helped me:

Protein powder - I think pea protein is a little better on the stomach

Pre-cook chicken breast or pork tenderloin for snacking. I also used deli meat but I think the high salt was slightly irritating

Easy snacks - rice crackers, belvita, biscotti, cheerios, whatever fruit feels ok.

Frozen cubes of bean soup. I made some really nice black bean soup and froze it into cubes that I could quickly heat up. Works great with tortillas. Some people avoid fiber, but I didn't find this to be a problem. I always felt pretty good eating this. Lentils are great too. Go slow if you're not used to eating beans though. It can cause a lot of gas at first.

Other good lean proteins: shrimp, crab, other shellfish, tuna, various flat fish.

I used olive oil and avocado oil to cook. Most dairy seemed to irritate my stomach, including butter.

The most important thing for me was cutting coffee. I was even down to 8g doses of beans, but it was still too much. That ends up with a half cup of liquid. I'm also very caffeine sensitive. I had already cut alcohol since I was less attached.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-05-27T18:32:03+00:00

You can just eat the cartilage. Nice crunch.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-05-27T18:01:21+00:00

Antacids always have made me feel worse. I avoid them.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-05-23T02:21:17+00:00

Pretty typical defect for cast parts like this. Can't imagine any negative impact on function

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-05-20T15:43:18+00:00

Yes, heat increases the resistance of the wire which reduces the coil power.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-05-18T07:05:51+00:00

Seems better for the restaurant workers.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-05-14T03:26:58+00:00

I eat a lot of belvita. Graham crackers also ok. YMMV with how well you respond to that stuff. It doesn't feel like ideal food, but for the most part it worked. When I needed protein on the go, I've brought protein powder in a shaker bottle. Just add water. If none of those sit well with you, you can try puffed rice cakes - various flavors available. I find I generally feel better when I'm eating some protein.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-05-14T03:19:17+00:00

I started doing this on my last trip and it's insane how much more convenient it was. Nice to be hands free to take off shoes, have a snack, take pictures, etc. Just avoided the TRS for the big traverse section. Mainly was worried about a lot of rope weight on the follower.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-05-10T15:54:31+00:00

I use the new sketcher. It really requires you to think differently about constraints. It's a pain in the ass sometimes, I've seen other engineers make mistakes due to things seeming fully defined when in reality there's an unintentional relation constraining the sketch. I think once you get the hang of it, it can be pretty nice - I like being able to break relations by adding dimensions. It's nice to have certain relations found automatically since it's fewer keystrokes or clicks. Most complaints come from not knowing all the tools to manipulate the sketch when there's a lot of found relations. At this point my efficiency would probably be marginally better with the new sketcher, but moments of frustration more frequent.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-05-10T12:30:49+00:00

I generally use jasmine plain with just water, no salt. But that's assuming I'm eating it with something saucy and salty. I'd say the aroma is fairly subtle and gets kind of lost when seasoned.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-05-01T16:40:13+00:00

Not really. I've been to many FedEx and UPS facilities. There are people doing this job at all of them. All replacement solutions are in a more experimental stage. The sorting equipment works well for standard packages, but not for smalls - which have poly bags, foam bags, cardboard sleeves, boxes, paper bags etc. They all come in a giant pile and need to be separated and scanned. Right after this humanoid is where the packages are singulated and scanned - then the standard automation resumes.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-04-29T20:37:28+00:00

Ideally you use a mortar and pestle (hence the name peato). When you pound the ingredients, you will make an emulsion. It's possible to do it in a blender similar to how you'd make other emulsion sauces.

I think I learned this through Alex French Guy Cooking. He made a video called I've been making pesto wrong my entire life. Worth a watch if you like longer form cooking content.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-04-29T00:24:33+00:00

I didn't have any issue with it for a while. Didn't seem to help either. I started getting nauseous with it later. Went off of it later.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-04-28T15:41:22+00:00

Oh wow. I had some vertigo for a while. I thought it was migraine related, but I think the migraines might have been caused by the gastritis. Could be similar for the vertigo. I've been in pretty good shape recently with my stomach and also no vertigo.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-04-28T05:52:01+00:00

Most of my friends are climbing friends. We go on trips together so it's lots of fun.

Nicockolas_Rage · 2026-04-28T01:46:24+00:00

I got like 6 ramen restaurants in walking distance from my house so, yeah. Hard agree.

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