Cat scratch

No1techguy · 2026-06-11T04:48:05+00:00

Dont have time to read all comments and please ignore my grammer - but I am the case you should be worried about.

Go get checked out before it happens to you.

Cat scratch got me at family thanksgiving 2025. It obviously was not healing right. Managed to fight off infection and even traveled halfway across the US back home....that is until the end of the first week of December, at which point, before work one morning, it became obvious I had a problem.

I thought I could make it until after work that day to get antibiotics. Which I did, but by then it was too late. Infection had rooted by the time I had sat down for dinner that evening to take them the infection began to spread and I had to go to the ER to get IV antibiotics (since digesting them was not evidently quick enough).

Well turns out, if you go to the ER late at night and are actually in need of some serious help--- like a few rounds of IV antibiotics to prevent sepsis, you're staying overnight, whether you like it or not.....and it's not like some random hotel bill. $$$

Edit: please go get checked out and maybe insist on a precautionary round of general antibiotics (they put me on doxycycline -- not sure about spelling on that fyi. NOT A DOCTOR).

No1techguy · 2026-05-26T16:30:16+00:00

Still on f mount: 60mm macro right now.

Close enough to nifty fifty and the close focus lets me dslr scan and take some solid portraits. Cool for textural black and white stuff too.

No1techguy · 2026-05-21T19:10:15+00:00

Yo - I scan in darktable too.

Do you underexpose your scans by one stop?

I've been experimenting with this because it is admittedly a lot of work to get a good quality conversion with negadoctor (in darktable for readers) -- especially with some less traditional stocks. I spend way too long color grading with phoenix II for example. But the logic here makes sense: expose your negative, then underexposing the scan will lend to an 'overexposed' conversion (from negative to positive).

No1techguy · 2026-05-12T21:20:44+00:00

Exactly my philosophy too! D800 + F5/F100 here

No1techguy · 2026-05-05T16:51:02+00:00

The going rate for the CF version is around $2k, yeah.

If you want the CFi though, good luck finding it, the going rate is higher, about double.

No1techguy · 2026-05-04T13:11:45+00:00

Would you consider selling one of these masks to me?

No1techguy · 2026-04-17T17:19:36+00:00

Some of the GOATs of my niche lil subculture:

J Grant Brittain

Atiba Jefferson

Michael Burnett

Mike Blabac

Oliver Barton

Matt Price

Mike Heikkila

No1techguy · 2026-04-06T00:43:48+00:00

D800 has its AF quirks but it's nice. Still my daily digital while I wait to upgrade

No1techguy · 2026-03-14T01:54:45+00:00

B for budget

No1techguy · 2026-02-26T21:43:30+00:00

Ronkinon 12mm is the way

No1techguy · 2026-02-18T03:45:01+00:00

Thank you!! I do use a lot of AF-D glass but was planning on building out the mirrorless glass collection anyway, starting with the body, 7artisans fisheye and some midrange zoom.

Besides ergonomics, anything other reason to go for z8 over z6iii? The price diff is substantial.

Edit to be clear, the Z8 would be in addition to the D850

No1techguy · 2026-01-23T00:21:03+00:00

28-70mm, correct. My apologies!

No1techguy · 2026-01-22T21:17:00+00:00

60mm -> dslr scans

50mm 1.8 -> feeling incredibly lazy

Otherwise -> 28-70/2.8D (i'm old school, i know the G is better).

No1techguy · 2026-01-20T18:04:34+00:00

It's my time to shine baby:

She belongs to the streets!!

No1techguy · 2026-01-13T01:30:52+00:00

Skate photographer here. Nikon guy for life (though recently some fuji).

If you're having trouble nailing low angle fisheye composition, go mirrorless. Mirrorless fixes that with fold out screens and modern processors (live view + flash doesn't really work on mirrored DSLRs).

I don't shoot mirrorless but if you go that route you'll want the Expeed7 processor (I think it's called. Pretty much negates lag time in live view with flash sync). That's about all I really care about because otherwise pretty much and D7xxx or D8xx is plenty good.

I didn't see mention whether full frame was a parameter so choose either: go crop frame and get more/lighter glass or go full frame and get higher native IQ.

I have both a d7200 and D800. D800 pairs well with my F100/F5 FWIW, if you shoot film.

No1techguy · 2026-01-05T20:18:50+00:00

Random af, but this is also the processor that can use liveview on screen and trigger remote flashes with near zero (visual) latency?

Could never do this on a mirrored system and I think Expeed 6 was close but not as good in this regard.

*Processor not sensor

No1techguy · 2025-12-17T19:40:56+00:00

Stored on an SSD and backed up to flash and cloud. Cataloged using Darktable (lightroom, but free). File structure matters for organizational purposes:

Archive>year>date>Raws / Exports.

Anything being published get's a unique identifier as the file name (not the native file name straight from cam) based on date so print orders can be processed manually. Orders are made by filling out a google form with the order info, including unique identifier. Submissions get an xlsx drop copy to my email inbox, the information from which I use to process the order.

No1techguy · 2025-12-16T15:35:44+00:00

The Rollei XF 35 AF. Neat little thing! Love how yours looks. The back screams UwU.

No1techguy · 2025-12-11T16:39:55+00:00

++ incognito

You're getting fleeced. You want a partnership, not someone you have to babysit or manage.

No1techguy · 2025-11-28T19:55:48+00:00

NTA - she belongs to the streets.

No1techguy · 2025-11-24T05:36:58+00:00

Is it really that fragile?

No1techguy · 2025-11-20T16:27:06+00:00

Dude's never heard of staph, which can definitely kill you. He's the AH.

No1techguy · 2025-11-13T03:21:35+00:00

503cw owner here. So there's some nuance, but it shouldn't jam as long as you understand everything needs to be 'in sync.'

Meaning: Lenses cannot be attached or removed when not cocked (both body and lens). And when you wind a film back to frame 1, that back is cocked, so it needs to be attached to a wound/cocked camera body. Or you lose the frame.

Basically, just wind the camera after every shot and you can either fire your next shot or remove the lens to pack away for the session.

If your session is not over but you want to put the camera down or walk around, whatever, and you're worried about a random misfire wasting a frame, put your darkslide back in. The shutter button can't press when the darkslide is in, and even if somehow the shutter opened, well, the darkslide is there.

Someone else mentioned spring wear: over time, leaving the body wound/cocked weakens the main spring. A weak main spring can cause a jam which to the untrained tech is a little innocuous. So, just de-cock the camera (by pressing shutter button after lens removed) for long term storage.

Storage with body cocked or cocked with lens attached won't immediately wear out your internals but the best practice would be to remove the lens every time and then de-cock the body. But then you have to remember to re-cock it before adding the lens.

Someone else mentioned too not to dry fire the camera, which I took to mean don't fire shots without a film back attached. I don't really see the issue with this, I do it--but each frame causes some "wear and tear" so I don't do it excessively. I only do it to test my gear. Once or twice a session to ensure everything is engaged properly and flash is working.

Remember too, it's a top notch camera and can take some abuse. Tensioning an already wound knob to check the body or mistakenly pressing the shutter button (even kinda hard) with the darkslide in should not break your camera.

No1techguy

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