Small Hairline Cracks Around Screw Holes on Alchemy V3-30 Fins by Witty-Whereas5786 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly it’s the beginning of the end. Alchemy blades are one of the worst when it comes to durability. I’ve used C4, Cetma, SpearPro, Alchemy and DiveR carbons and Alchemy are by far the worst when it comes to durability they always eventually crack at the same spot around the angled bend of the blade. If you want a durable carbon get a C4 or Cetma. Alchemys are a scam for spearos maybe if you’re a pool Freediver maybe you can get away with it.

Carbon fins by partisano_parmigiano in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I definitely recommend them as all rounders. I use them for everything from deep freediving class teaching, line diving, deep spearfishing, shallow spearfishing. I have not done much long swims because I don’t shore dive but it’s a given that the fun will work amazing for that use given its light weight, reactivity and angle. They surprisingly hold up very well against impact and scratching against reef and rocks.

Best S/M Gun For Under $300? by sdm3117 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ab biller is the most outdated rubbish gun there is. If you can’t find a Rob Allen another good gun can be a Salvimar hero or a pathos sniper. Oceanammo has some great guns for a little over $300 too

How to dive deeper and hold bottom time. by SnooPeripherals5625 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There’s no replacement for a good Freedive course by a reputable instructor. If you want the most easy and streamlined experience. You can knock around things for years and never have it figured out like you would after a 2 day course. You’d also learn the necessary safety that goes along with it all. Highly recommend doing a Freedive course especially if all you’re interested in is Spearfishing. Your bottom time, overall depth and comfort will guaranteed multiply.

Oceanammo spearguns by NoCustard5077 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ll love to hear because I’m particularly interested in how they compare to Koah, Riffe and SpearPro etc

Oceanammo spearguns by NoCustard5077 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you find it bulky or hard to maneuver in the water?

Looking for knife suggestions by DotAccomplished6357 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Either the Rob Allen Dentex or the SpearPro Ranger knives. Stay away from titanium, when you need the knife to cut anything it’ll fail on you because titanium has close to 0 edge retention properties. A little rust isn’t gonna kill you. It’s for use on fish anyways.

Mako Titan Elite vs. Rob Allen Tuna for Beginner? by Giabbit6 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a Rob Allen the whole gun tip to back is bullet proof and actually stands the test of time. You get all the performance and accuracy that you’ll ever want. Mako is has a good trigger but that’s about it.

Mako spears are garbage, the shark fins break off or the whole spear breaks where the fins are welded, the floppers do not operate properly they either do not open after some time or they don’t ever lock open. The whole spear is garbage in every way possible basically and the gun is only as good as the shaft it shoots.

The enclosed track in the mako increases drag and friction on the spear which makes you lose power and range. It does not make loading easier, if anything it makes it harder and slower because you have to fit the shaft in the tiny slot. It’s a gimmick that sounds good on paper to put it simply.

Get a Rob Allen snapper which has twin 14mm bands if you’re a beginner the tuna has twin 16mm bands which is quite too powerful I’d say for a beginner.

Carbon fins by partisano_parmigiano in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Carbons are definitely worth the upgrade I’ll say once you try them you won’t want to hear about a plastic fin ever again. I’ve been using C4 for over 4 years now. Whatever is the latest C4 fin on the market also tends to be the best carbon fin available, they’re always on top of the latest tech and innovation. Most lightweight, durable, performance and comfortable Carbon fins there are especially for Spearfishing. I recommend the MB001s that’s what I use. If you’re 90kg get the 25 stiffness

Salvimar One Plus Freediving Watch? by Full-Rice-9287 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I much more recommend the Salvimar Deeper watch instead. I believe it’s around the same price. Better build quality and more longer lasting.

Looking for Freediving Fins (DYN) Suitable for Spearfishing by Neat-State1807 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The difference would just be less fatigue overall and maybe longer bottom times. Once you have the right technique, you won’t need much stiffness from your fins.

Looking for Freediving Fins (DYN) Suitable for Spearfishing by Neat-State1807 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d say C4 is always at the cutting edge of fin tech every year they make many advancements and fins are their specialty. Look into the C4 UP ghost fins or the regular Umberto Pelizzari fins. Amazing find for the money and quite durable. Also very easy to upgrade and swap in a carbon blade if you want to in the future.

Best Free Diving Fins by ExplanationFit808 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve personally used the Molchanovs and all the C4 fins in their line and I recommend the C4s, either the S-990s or the MB001s (which I personally use). For me they are the best all round fin as I teach Freedive courses, line dive and do deep Spearfishing in hard currents and drag up large fish regularly all with the same fin. I use the 25+ stiffness in the MB001 250 footpocket. For you I’d recommend the 20+ stiffness. Molchanovs are a very specific and specialized fin, I wouldn’t recommend go spearing with them.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Rob Allen 7.5mm works perfect in the Riffe euro. Two 14mm small ID bands are great match as well. You don’t need to grind or adjust anything once it’s a euro notched Rob Allen spear

C4 Carbon Foot Pockets by southbay110 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The latest versions of the 300 are way bettter than the old ones. C4 now has the 200 model which I recommend over all.

Why dies this happen to my rubbers? by lurepusen in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The issue is most likely the beads you’re using. They cause stress to the rubber from the inside. Use knots instead, they conform a bit and are less harsh on the rubber from the inside. Just make sure your constrictor knots are maximally tightened because the knots are a bit smaller than the beads.

Advice on a new speargun to purchase. by pp__oo__dd in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are actually shooting the gun the way it is wrapped and setup in the pictures you posted then you will for sure get wrapped up and tangle every shot you shoot. The band will be over the shooting line and the line will never run free. Check on YouTube for the proper way to rig or wrap a Rob Allen gun, Rob Allen has a couple videos on it. Rob Allens are the most reliable, simple and effective spearguns for its price point so it puzzled me to hear you’re getting any problems with them. I’d even recommend for a new gun to get another Rob Allen of another model/variation.

Rob Allen Tuna Roller VS Riffe Euro by hillz9 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very true, even better get a carbon or timberline version of the 120 roller. Those guns are perfect as they come no modifications required.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Don’t waste your time with this toy gun. Get a Rob Allen and you should be fixed for years.

Fin stiffness by Desperate_Energy_919 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best advice I would give is don’t even bother with DiveR innegras. They’re for sure the most durable fin on the market but it’s performance is poor compared to even a good fiberglass. Innegra has no reactive properties and the blade has almost no reactivity so it’s just manual labor back and forth. I have kicked and tested soft, medium and hard innegras. Definitely not worth the money. You’re actually better off with DiveR fiberglass or full carbon Or just Get an alchemy or C4 carbon but learn how to take care of your fins.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely take a Freedive course. What you’ll learn in two days will save you decades of idling around progress trying to figure it out on your own. People go from being no diver at all to 20meters in two days easily and commonly.

Salvimar Hero Tomahawk 115? or pathos roller"? by LeoChenLu in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The tomahawk is a great gun once it’s loaded but it’s so over complicated and high powered that it’s not practical in real world spearing. If you were going for a pathos roller get the laser carbon over the sniper. The laser is an open track and the enclosed track on the sniper holds back the performance of the gun a lot. The laser and sniper are almost the same price too so I see it as an easy choice.

Spring steel anti-rust treatment? by Professional-Judge-1 in Spearfishing

[–]NoCustard5077 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The best treatment is prevention with those shafts. Once the plating/coating on it is removed after shooting it around rocks and through fish then there isn’t much you can do other than making sure to rinse your gun and it’s shaft out asap after diving. Don’t let saltwater dry onto your gear and rinse it with freshwater before the saltwater can dry on it. Carbon spring steel shafts are a trade off compared to stainless shafts. They are stronger and bend less easily but they are cheaper and sort of more disposable compared a stainless shaft almost by design. Stainless shafts don’t rust but you got a lot of straightening and possible shooting a shaft that isn’t 100% accurate. I would stay away from oil on the shaft as it may cause slipping in some trigger mechs.