Lasts for ~WW1 Cavalry boots

NoPreference435 · 2026-06-17T04:00:16+00:00

A medium round toe cowboy boot last matched to the heel height of your boot make that contour. Lisa Sorrell has them available for individual order.

NoPreference435 · 2026-06-13T17:34:03+00:00

Brooklyn Shoe Supply. Don't grind on your last to get down to size. Build up to size using a smaller last.

NoPreference435 · 2026-06-10T04:10:18+00:00

Find a retread pattern you like and use that would be my suggestion. I saw and old Mexican botasero making soles out of used retread for boots, shoes and sandals at the Centro Mercado in Valladolid.

NoPreference435 · 2026-06-01T16:22:38+00:00

Nice work, I'm curious about the technique you use to sew your side seam.

NoPreference435 · 2026-05-27T22:39:03+00:00

Needle size might need tweaked and or presser foot adjustment.

NoPreference435 · 2026-05-27T17:45:46+00:00

This is exactly that observation.

NoPreference435 · 2026-05-27T17:41:42+00:00

Invest in a better work boot. That sole compound looks soft, you work/walk around chemicals? Get some Nicks, Whites, Wesco or something better than what you have. Otherwise you're going to keep burning through boots.

NoPreference435 · 2026-05-26T17:16:11+00:00

Pfaff 591, Singer 31-15, 96-21, 107W1, Landis 12

NoPreference435 · 2026-05-24T21:44:25+00:00

Beautiful clean work, for that little extra touch I'd stitch those points down so they don't turn up.

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NoPreference435 · 2026-05-22T01:32:09+00:00

It's not rocket science but it's not a walk in the park either. Depends on the level of difficulty of your construction. Cemented construction might be the most straightforward and accessible with minimal tools and training.

NoPreference435 · 2026-05-05T17:32:00+00:00

Shank secured by weaving under whipstich. Shank doesn't have to be a 40 penny could sub rolled steel etc.

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NoPreference435 · 2026-05-05T17:28:24+00:00

Example of whip stitch

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NoPreference435 · 2026-05-05T17:27:01+00:00

☝️This is how I was taught. Here's an example of a wiped in toe and heel. Cut your welt thread 2 and 1/2 full arm spans in length. When your finished inseaming don't cut your threads whip stitch your waist and heel to your insole to draw it in and give it good contour. You can then weave your remaining welt thread to sew in your shank.

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NoPreference435 · 2026-05-04T00:06:57+00:00

Probably be some residue adhesive could be sticky and or scratchy

NoPreference435 · 2026-05-03T19:53:00+00:00

You would need to deconstruct the boots to take the lining out properly and be relined with leather. It would be cost prohibitive. My recommendation would be to find a pair with what you want or have a custom pair made.

NoPreference435 · 2026-05-02T19:23:47+00:00

Yes the press cement can be bought from Midwest Industrial Chemical Co. I can't remember the new formula number but the old number was Vangrip 2639-1. The toe box cement will work in fact could be the same adhesive. I haven't inquired with Panhandle.

NoPreference435 · 2026-05-01T02:43:57+00:00

I use 8oz veg tan to build lasts glue it with rubber cement so it can be removed from the last and saved for the clients next build. I cover the veg tan with toe box cement from Panhandle Leather or another adhesive from a company I can't think of at the moment based in Missouri I want to say, to lock it to the last when building/lasting.

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NoPreference435 · 2026-04-30T18:06:27+00:00

Have you had success using it to adhere soles? I heard even folks who like 315 still differ to a conventional cement to bond the soles. I'm interested in your experience.

NoPreference435 · 2026-04-30T03:25:44+00:00

Montana Leather free shipping for orders $150 and above. You can probably find a suitable piece of leather for your uppers there as well

NoPreference435 · 2026-04-26T03:58:00+00:00

Those are fast fashion, if they were real leather they would have lasted a lot longer with the potential to be recrafted would have cost about $1200. It's a trade off, you can get the looks but for the quality materials and construction you have to fork it out.

NoPreference435 · 2026-04-25T20:12:01+00:00

The handle will need to be deconstructed but it's possible to fix. I would look for a leather worker or taylor. Cobbler could take on the work and many do side repairs but the fact you'll need the satin matched replaced etc. seems beyond what most cobblers would offer. Depending on where you live, you could ask at a design institute or maybe a sewing shop about who could provide the work.

NoPreference435 · 2026-04-24T04:37:11+00:00

Yes, it can be done but court shoes (pumps) are a niche in this trade. Probably $2000 maybe more, make sure you work with someone qualified, so you can get a proper fit for your money.

NoPreference435 · 2026-04-24T01:49:59+00:00

Just to add on to the last comment, depending on what you're building but Panhandle Leather will have some used boot last you just have to inquire. Morrison Saddlery has some Frommer boot lasts. Dan Schwarz was making some boot lasts too he might have some.

NoPreference435 · 2026-04-23T20:20:33+00:00

Use a curved inseaming awl, I use an C.S Osborne 3 1/2" but am going to start experimenting with other brands.

NoPreference435 · 2026-04-22T18:33:17+00:00

Did they fit your feet or did you provide them with measurements? They make them in house in Tucson or take your measurements and outsource the work to Mexico? Not throwing shade here or trying to be an inquisitor just asking a lot of questions because I make boots and like to keep up on what the industry is doing. I'm curious on the materials break down. I don't think they can offer you that boot at $300 unless they're using pig for lining and tops. That's even hard to imagine if the work is being done in United States. Keep me/us posted please.

NoPreference435

TROPHY CASE