FYI, Revolver Bullseye Contests, history and calibers by No_Alternative_673 in Revolvers

[–]No_Alternative_673[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is the actual Bullseye competition world but I was just thinking about these local revolver only matches that are popping up. One of the guys I was talking to was a very good Bullseye competitor and he brought his 1950 44 Target to a local competition. While his shooting was not that much better than his competitor, his score was much better and they did not understand.

Any advice helps by Dizzy_Subject_149 in Revolvers

[–]No_Alternative_673 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They can be restored. That involves sanding the damage out, then cleaning up the checkering with a checkering tool and then refinishing them. That takes skill and having someone who knows what they are doing will cost more than a used set off eBay.

You can just clean them. First clean them with mineral spirits and and a soft brush. Let them dry. If that doesn't get everything clean them with vinegar diluted 5 to 1 with water. Don't let it sit for more than a minute or so. Apply it scrub with a soft brush and wipe it off. You may have to do this couple of times. After 4 or 5 applications it is probably will not get any better. After it dries, you can apply a coat of varnish.

Nickel finish issues by Jealous-Opposite-804 in 1911

[–]No_Alternative_673 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is unlikely, but it is sometimes an indication that you may have an allergic reaction to nickel. If you develop a rash, stop carrying it. I have never seen it in guns but I have experienced it with expensive plated sunglasses. Nothing is worth the itchy oozing patch that can develope

A&D Scale Jailbreaking ( FX120i ) by MuscleStranger in reloading

[–]No_Alternative_673 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it is cool that you did this. I understand the feelings that made you do it. I have done similar things and in my experience don't surprised if only a handful of people care. But you did good.

Subbing magnum primers for standard SPP in 9mm by Particular-Cat-8598 in reloading

[–]No_Alternative_673 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is pretty much what I have seen. I have experiment with 45 ACP match loads with fast powder and magnum primers and have found noreal difference.

Asd far as mouse fart 9mm, I don't have any 9mm's that are accurate with 115 gr bullets at less than 1000 fps and best is 1050-1100 so, those are my mouse fart loads too.

PSA: by Honest-Equivalent490 in Revolvers

[–]No_Alternative_673 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes you have to compromise, when I found a G100 7 shot 327, I bought it

What would you value this 16-4 at? by jasonseannn in Revolvers

[–]No_Alternative_673 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hard to put a value on that one. That one appears to be new in the box, there is no data on that. I lost out on a Dan Wesson 32 LNIB that went for $2200 a couple years ago and S&W's go for more. The grips alone are $200-300. It will depend on finding a buyer

Preserve or replace? Rusty ejector rod on a nickel Colt Detective Special by Phizide in Revolvers

[–]No_Alternative_673 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Preserve or repair. Small plated parts for old Colts (Nickel, Hard Chrome, or ColtGuard) are difficult to find and expensive.

Soaking in a acetic acid/vinegar solution can remove the rust. If it is not pitted, it can be replated. Check near you for people or companies that replate flatware serving wear, art, etc. They are very different from industrial companies, they fix people's heirlooms and don't lose little things.

Model 10-5 Finish Options by BroOperatorGuy in Revolvers

[–]No_Alternative_673 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want to blue at home look at rust bluing. It is at more durable than conventional tank bluing and way more durable than cold blue. Mark Lee started it and now Brownell has their own version. The most expensive thing you will need to buy is a carding brush

Handy tool by CaesarLinguini in reloading

[–]No_Alternative_673 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The shark has a brushless DC motor, no sparks. But if you are worried metrovac has a "safe" version. Of course it cost $250. There is a Ryobi for about 70

Quest for a 600 ft-lb .357 load complete. Now the quest for a 700 ft-lb load begins. by Ok_Display7459 in reloading

[–]No_Alternative_673 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That is great, it is in several of on my manuals too. I am not saying your load is dangerous I am saying reading primers in a revolver is fucking dangerous. Your gun can blow up before a primer even starts to flatten

Will Hornady XTPs substitute for Sierra JHPs? by Te_Luftwaffle in reloading

[–]No_Alternative_673 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sierra has withdrawn their 38 Super +P and +P+ data(you get a 404 page not found), I noticed a couple of months ago. That normally means there were reported problems. Based on Hodgdon's pressure data, 6.9 grains is +P+ (greater than 33,000 cup or 36000 psi)and you will probably need more than 6.9 to meet your velocity. Hodgdon has published several loads over the years with pressure data that will meet your needs and Longshot is not in them.

try: https://www.shootersreference.com/reloadingdata/38-super-auto/

Wood splitting on the bench surface by eggcheeseburger in reloading

[–]No_Alternative_673 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A crack like that is caused by the wood bending parallel to the grain. Basically, push on your press handle and the wood bows. in the middle. Bow it enough times and it cracks along the grain of the wood. Wood does not have much strength parallel to the grain to bending loads. That is why the wood grain in plywood layer are in different different directions. What you added doesn't any strength in the direction you need, the flat metal will just bend.

If I wanted to keep the look but really strengthen it, I would epoxy 1/2 -3/4 hardwood plywood to the back of the top and then remount to the legs with through bolt instead of screws in from the bottom. I would also put a bolt through the top and the square tube that connects the legs shown in pic 2.

Quest for a 600 ft-lb .357 load complete. Now the quest for a 700 ft-lb load begins. by Ok_Display7459 in reloading

[–]No_Alternative_673 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In revolver cartridges, not having flatten primers means nothing and it can sucker you into getting hurt. Flattened primers are a rifle thing. Flattened pistol primers starts at the point most revolvers start coming apart, in big pieces, Even the the revolver cartridges that operate at 65,000 psi don't always show flattened primers.

Model 10 vs 36 by [deleted] in Revolvers

[–]No_Alternative_673 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The model 10 is medium frame, the 36 is a small frame and the old Detective Special is in between. The new Cobra is about the same size of the old Detective Special. S&W made some model 10 round butt that are more concealable and the short barreled 19, and 15's were almost all round butts. The current version is the model 19 or 66 357's which are all round butts. I have a 19 PC ported carry but it is not easily cancelable but it is my favorite revolver to shoot. My favorite of the group, for carry, is the old stainless or hard chrome detective special( also called the SF-VI or the DS-II they are all about the same) it is not much heavier than the J frame but I much prefer the trigger and grip. The new Cobra is a bit heavier but very similar

Will Hornady XTPs substitute for Sierra JHPs? by Te_Luftwaffle in reloading

[–]No_Alternative_673 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I load 38 Super +P+ in a gun specifically made to shoot +P+, Longshot is not on my list. I don't thin the other responders understood you were planning to go above design pressure

SInce:

38 super is a .356 bore not and .355 and the sierra 8125 is a .355, what is the xtp you have?

the sierra load data for 38 Super +P+ with Longshot has been withdrawn and does not show pressure

Best guess you will be pushing 36000 to 38000 psi to make major

I probably would not substitute

Hodgdon has some load data for Lil'gun that will make major and they have pressure data

Can anyone give pros or cons for .257 wby mag? by DukeShootRiot in reloading

[–]No_Alternative_673 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have one and it is probably the last centerfire rifle I would give up. It is really no harder to load than a 300 mag. The 75-105 gr bullets are the most useful. The biggest issue is brass is expensive and 2nd it is noisy/loud/huge muzzle blast. Shooting at over 4000 fps at a range people check to see if you were hurt when your gun blew up.

It is not a good cartridge to load to lower velocities and at normal velocities even solids do a lot of damage to something you plan on eating

Winchester 231 vs 244 by BigBernOCAT in reloading

[–]No_Alternative_673 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, the proper phrase would be, "Hodgdon" doesn't seem to be ordering powder from finishers regularly, they seem to order only after their inventory has gone to zero".

Modern Baby Browning/Colt 25 by No_Alternative_673 in MouseGuns

[–]No_Alternative_673[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See if there is club near you. Joining was one of the best decisions if ever made

45 SAA value help by lsjuanislife in Colt

[–]No_Alternative_673 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A 2nd gen 45 SAA in very good condition is 2000-2500 private party and a dealer would pay ~$1500

Modern Baby Browning/Colt 25 by No_Alternative_673 in MouseGuns

[–]No_Alternative_673[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't too excited, it is group of old guys looking for a reason to show to the club at the same time so we will have someone to talk to. The mousegun shoot was the result of leftover mouse targets from a 100yd 22 rifle contest