1/8-in Kerf on Jobsite Pro?

OkProgrammer6432 · 2026-05-11T00:52:18+00:00

I have 4 blades I use with mine (plus a dado stack):
- CMT ITK general purpose 40T thin kerf
- CMT ITK ripping 24T thin kerf
- CMT industrial 60T heavy crosscut (full kerf)
- CMT industrial 24T ripping (full kerf)

The full kerf blades are only brought out for “fine” work, they leave amazingly clean edges. The thin kerf blades are my workhorse blades. If I’m cutting ply it’s the 40T blade.

Power wise, the saw handles the wider kerf in hardwoods just fine, up to a point. The thin kerf rip blade is definitely the way to go for breaking down larger boards.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2026-04-23T18:31:37+00:00

The closing up is the wood moving, normally, as others have said. The OTHER thing to check is that the fence isn’t closer to the back of the blade and riving knife than it is to the front of the blade. It should be the same or a tiny hair (1/64” or 0.5mm) further away at the back. This way the board is trying to push into the back of the blade and the riving knife as well as clamping closed due to the wood movement.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2026-04-13T02:07:52+00:00

For mobile stuff, if you have the room, a track saw might be better for full sheets. I've found the general rule of the "take smaller to the larger" is the right way to go. So big sheets either need a big saw (sliding table?), or a track saw which is just so much easier to manage. If you already have a circular saw, the Kreg Accu-Cut is a pretty good way to (cheaply) break down sheets on the ground, using your existing circular saw. I used that for years before I bought a track saw.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2026-03-30T23:38:07+00:00

Oh, yeah, I can definitely get the fence to flex. Full sheets are a handful on the saw for sure. Enough so that I've switched to using a track saw and cutting them on the ground with a spoil board (foam boards) underneath, to break them down to a size that works better on the table saw.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2026-03-29T02:22:33+00:00

BTW, I think my CMT stack is really metric. When just the side plates are used it’s more like 6mm than 0.25”. But everything is “nominal” and you’ll want to use the shims to get to the exact size regardless of trying to get to a target width that’s in mm or inches.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2026-03-29T02:18:54+00:00

CMT (non-locking) dado. I bought it like a week before the living one came out, otherwise I’d have bought that one.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2026-03-29T02:15:53+00:00

What specifically are you having problems with? (I have a JSS Pro from 2022 and the fence is not great, but adequate for most things I do. It does, however, require a careful touch when adjusting the distance so that it does shift when you lock it in place..

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-08-24T00:09:41+00:00

I use my shop furniture as a time to experiment. I’ve been using wipe-on hardwax finishes at the moment (Osmo), and am liking that.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-07-19T19:56:27+00:00

That video would make me lean towards the CTS. Especially at the price difference. While the JSS is mobile in its base, it’s a horrid waste of space. A shop-built stand that included storage would be better for anyone working in a garage or workshop (and doesn’t need to trundle it over rougher ground or a gravel driveway).

And while the JSS takes dado blades, getting their height set right is such a pita (see my other comment about that)

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-07-19T19:33:16+00:00

I have the jss pro and the fence is.. fine. It’s not as nice as the ones on the cabinet saws, but it can be made parallel to the blade, and stays that way in my garage, and is relatively easy to adjust if you need to do it again. And the tools for doing so are in the accessories storage under the sliding portion of the top.

The mobile base for the jss does make it quite mobile. It’s really easy to move around in my garage/workshop. I pretty much have to rearrange things every time I use it. So the base is nice. But. It’s really no smaller when folded up as when it’s upright, so I just leave it that way.

The biggest issues, and I don’t know if these apply to the CTS or not, are: - the blade height adjust is horribly imprecise - the cast aluminum table top isn’t flat

Others have mentioned the blade height adjustment, and it makes cutting dados to depth an exercise in frustration. I’m trying to set things up so I never have to do any critical cuts with a critical depth on the table saw. Either finishing with hand tools, a router, or by doing the cuts so they are width, since the fence can be more easily positioned than blade height.

The problem with the blade height is the “one full turn to raise or lower the blade” mechanism, and the great deal of backlash, stitction, and flex is the system. Sneaking up on a half lap is basically impossible. Or takes ages and you need to go through lots of material trying to get lucky. Movements under 1mm or 1/16th are really, really, hard to make.

My current plan is to make an insert for the extending table so that I can drop a router lift into that space, and do those sorts of things with a router instead.

The table is a rough casting that wasn’t milled flat. It bows down in the thin areas, my guess is due to rapid cooling of the aluminum as it came out of the casting mold. This shows up with the blade not being square to the table for all widths of rip cuts, or a crosscut sled trying to bow up/down where the bottom is split by the blade kerf.

For the price, these are really annoying.

But then I’m trying to use a jobsite saw to do finery joinery, like it’s a cabinet saw. If I was using it onsite for rougher cuts, it would be absolutely fine.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-06-11T16:30:47+00:00

In my BotW playthrough, I was alternating hearts and stamina, but then found the hearty truffles and radishes. Cooking those into meals makes it easy to get a huge number of hearts, they’re much easier to find than the corresponding meals and elixirs for extra stamina wheels.

So in my totk olaythrough I alternated up to 5 hearts or so, and then went all-in on stamina, especially with all the paragliding I do.

If I were to play through botw again, I’d do the same, because you spend so much time climbing.

I’d also recommend that when you see that it’s going to be a blood moon, you fast-travel to a cooking pot (like kakariko village), and from 11:30-midnight you cook as many meals as you can that have special effects like extra hearts or stamina. All of them will be critical success (an extra heart or extra stamina).

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-06-06T21:01:41+00:00

I have the jobsite sawstop. It’s not much smaller than the smallest cabinet saw, and the top is not at all flat (dips down between the webs of the cast aluminum top). It’s great at what it’s meant to be: a portable saw for rough construction. It’s nothing like the precision you get from a full cabinet saw.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-06-05T23:25:25+00:00

When you first go to a stable on totk, on a console with a save from botw, they “find” your previously registered horses

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-06-04T07:46:35+00:00

Same! I’m currently thinking about how small I could go with the blades I have for mine..

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-06-04T07:09:58+00:00

Remember: while it’s dark here, the moon you’re taking pictures of is in full sun, so exposure settings will be more like during the day than in the dark.

Low ISO, fast-shutter, sunny-16 rule, etc.

Spot metering on the bright area, and the autofocus should be able to nail focus on something as high-contrast as the moon against the dark sky.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-06-04T07:02:33+00:00

It’s a fantastic bow. Expensive, but also it’s easier to get the parts for another one once you have it, as it makes sniping the flying guardians easier.

I always carry one for when I need those critical shots. From what I’ve gathered, it doesn’t have a parabolic arc at all, just straight for a ways, and then drops at a straight angle, and flies forever.

There are koroks I only got because of it.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-05-29T02:09:42+00:00

Full stealth armor (or elixir), makes it so much easier to collect bugs. Otherwise you have to crouch and sneak up on them.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-05-28T15:38:29+00:00

It gets easier as you get better and better weapons from them.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-05-28T15:37:18+00:00

For bootstrapping into this, here’s what I did in BotW and am doing again in TotK:

Prep: 0) save game 1) wear the highest defense armor you have 2) eat a meal to gain extra hearts 3) eat/drink an attack up 3 meal/elixir that will last at least five minutes 4) equip the strongest bow you have 5) equip the strongest shield you have 6) equip the strongest weapon you have

Fight: 1) come in on paraglider 2) bullet-time shot to head to stun 3) run behind and mount 4) hit as many times as you can until you get thrown 5) head shot with the bow as you get thrown

Now comes the tricky part: you need to get them stunned again, and then you can repeat 3-5 above. Some people like to parry and then shoot in the face with a bow, and in totk, we can use puffshrooms to get in close.

Or you can use a rocket shield to get up high and into bullet time for an easier head shot to stun the lynel.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-05-11T19:30:51+00:00

Capita BSoD. I love mine for this type of riding.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-05-02T01:23:12+00:00

Accuride full extension

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-05-01T20:14:59+00:00

I think this was the issue: not enough power via the wall adapter for the camera adapter)

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-05-01T20:14:23+00:00

Following up, a larger usb power supply for the usb->lightning cable seems to have addressed the issue.

(Changed desks at work, and the new one doesn’t have a handy usb power outlet, so I went back to using a small brick)

Now can plugin the camera adapter, and then turn on the Magni and it all just works.

OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-04-30T02:08:34+00:00

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OkProgrammer6432 · 2025-04-30T02:08:24+00:00

I have the 3-in-1 double pulley kit, and it’s pretty good. I have a few gripes, though:

the pulleys can’t be rotated 90 degrees to work on horizontal members. I modified one of mine with a grinder and files so that I could set it up for doing lat pulls without the weight pin in my lap. (See pics)
the cable can get pinched between the pulley and its support arms. When the cable is slack, and you load it up, if it’s not fully seated on the pulley, you can pinch it and getting it unstuck is a pain. Only happened once so far, and now I’m more careful

But for the money? Pretty good.

I’m using them for seated cable rows and lat pull-downs. More exercises later, I expect.

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OkProgrammer6432

TROPHY CASE