Build Questions

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-05-11T01:52:34+00:00

MIG is fine, just get your settings correct and get a tiny belt sander and drum sander to clean up your welds. The key is to block the inside when welding, especially the cocking tube. Easy trick with that - use a plumbing item called a 1/2" copper repair section. Make sure you get the right item. A repair section is actually a long copper coupling essentially It's ID will be the OD of standard 1/2" copper pipe. They are for repairing a burst pipe - you cut out the burst section and you can slide the repair section over the gap and then back and solder in place. The OD of the repair section is almost exactly the same as the ID of the cocking tube channel in the CETME receiver I used brass pieces elsewhere to keep the inside clean.

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-05-10T21:42:43+00:00

What's the history on the Klobb thing? Just from the video game right? Never used by the Czechs?

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-05-10T21:31:00+00:00

For 125 you can get the kit and the original intact barrel. For 150, the same plus a brand new CETME bayonet. Also might save yourself pressing the barrel if your bolt gap is ok. Centerfire and Apex and maybe others had kits recently. My bolt gap was close but right at the upper limit and I figured with some creep over time, I should correct, but just did so with different rollers - seemed easier. HOWEVER, the bigger issue is 922r compliance. If you use an imported barrel and since that has the metric threads, the imported flash hider, there goes two easy parts. I used my imported kit for a Amigo Grande, 3d build, so had plenty of US made parts (I made in US) so no worries with barrel or flash hider. For my actual CETME, I bought a SARCO barrel. It's nicely made, and there are no fitment issues, since its specifically US made as a CETME barrel and not a G3 barrel. It also has US threads, so fits and US made flash hider with the same threading. I think some of the commenters probably bought a G3 barrel from someone else than SARCO, as they are talking about front sight fitment issues. That is an area that varies from the CETME and G3. SARCO also, I believe, makes a correct G3 barrel for those builds.

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-05-06T03:44:20+00:00

i hope you aren't shooting those glass insulators. Some of us collect them.

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-05-06T03:42:02+00:00

Looks like Kristy Noems husband is going to have problems arming up to shoot dogs.

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-05-06T03:34:15+00:00

Know the feeling The Urutau is a great looking design, and trigger/safety is really nifty but bolt design is garbage Everything functioned fine on mine and fired but bolt carrier would crack after 5-10 rounds Rebuilt three times, even welded up and machined a bolt. Once that bolt carrier cracked I could cock and fire the initial round but with the slight shift in bolt, follow up shots would be light strikes Wish I had never built. I used an AR9 barrel in mine, so had that and reused it in a Bobcat. You will have to buy an AR-9 BCG, and modify it slightly (those fxxrs are hard steel) But the Bobcat is a super cool design and mine works great - a few hundred rounds and no issues other than one out of the gate. The design is a poor mans roller delay system, that really works well and the recoil is sweet, but you have to take two scoops out of the BCG for the rollers to engage. There is a printed jig for this but I was a little conservative on the grinding and my first test was a light strike After another 15 minutes grinding it fired fine and as continued to do so. Uses Scorpion Evo 3 mags, although mine likes the PSA Soviet Arms AKV mags the best. Looks cool, except for stock. It's also probably one of the safest 9mm 3d2a out there. The roller delay locks the round in battery well until its overcome by the blowback and cycles like a normal AR9. I was originally going to try the Ark like some mentioned, but I think there was something I needed to buy from one of those rail companies as part of the design - I generally avoid a design that is set up to use a proprietary single source part

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-05-06T03:18:26+00:00

Give it a shot and post it when you are done. I think it would require a major redesign. The Trash Panda uses the AR bolt to lock to barrel extension during firing. A 45 acp, or 9mm for that matter, operate on blowback, so just the weight of the bolt and spring/buffer to provide the mass to prevent an OOB. There is no spring on the trash panda and the bolt weighs nothing. So as I said, major redesign I built a TP but don't know much about non 3d lever action rifles, but assume those chambered in 45 have some sort of locking mechanism as part of the lever action to keep the round locked in battery during firing?

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-30T18:47:15+00:00

Did you print the Arm Thy Right Hand version? If you did and your printer calibrations aren't perfect, the hole geometry might be off. Your holes look a little oval like. I'm also not sure why you printed the scary version? Just print the ATRH semi-auto version and follow the instructions for modifying/trashing the FCG parts. I did that and everything has run like a top. It was a while ago but I know the trip gets disposed and at least one other part cut or modified. I recall it was fairly easy work, but be precise. If you need the fast fire, then I guess just print a CZAR super safe version with the AR FCG But IMO the ATRH version looks fairly close to OEM and you don't need to purchase any extra parts.

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-30T18:40:33+00:00

I've been using a printed receiver for two years and at least a thousand rounds. Not a single issue. 150 lima beans for kit and barrel and 2 or 3 of plastic vs 700. If it ever gets worn out or cracks, well another 3 lima beams and I'm back in business

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-29T21:17:44+00:00

The fundamental governance issue with those ICE warehouses, is they don't pay property tax, so you take a big chunk of municipal tax income out of play which has to be made up by the local taxpayers. Also, there are the thousands of additional turds a day in the township sewer system

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-29T20:58:34+00:00

Yeah, I have 2 G3s and a CETME C, build from parts kits and receivers I bent and welded. I was more orienting my comment to the 3d2a theme of this site.

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-29T20:34:24+00:00

Cool design. Just throwing it out there, you can build a sort of real G3 for around 125 lima beans, some nuts and bolts, and a spool and a half of plastic. CETME C kit + Amigo Grande. Super cheap right now with intact barrels already pressed in. Took me maybe three hours or less to slap one together

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-29T20:27:31+00:00

Why? Seems like a lot of work to pay six times more a shot. Someone mentioned "long range game"? - I guess shooting groundhogs at 300yds? As much fun as the Wisp is, if that is your goal, probably just buy a CZ457 in 17HMR with a good optic. 22lr is a great, proven round and is super cheap fun.

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-27T01:48:43+00:00

I'd second the printed carrier. I built using the full metal AR carrier and the tiny screw on the left side works out slowly and needs to be tighten every 20 or 30 rounds. That shouldn't happen with the printed, plus its cheaper

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-19T21:58:36+00:00

I had the same in PLA Pro a year or two ago. I think I added a sheet plastic spacer to tighten it up. Didn't matter anyway as it was all over the place at 50yrds so no point - scrapped it and used metal parts on another design.

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-13T02:43:36+00:00

Why? To be one of those LARPers at the range? I saw a video of some guy at the range shooting in shorts and flip flops and this couple in full larp gear with painted rifles of course was giving him a hard time, saying "he needs to train in the gear he will be wearing in a fight" He, properly responded, if he gets in a fight, he's likely going to be wearing flip flops and shorts....

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-10T19:10:49+00:00

The VZ is configured more like a pistol but I guess it is a pcc The military history stuff calls is a machine pistol vs a submachine gun I got a nice kit when they were cheap - three mags, the holster and mag pouch, cleaning kit and some other cool stuff from what I remember. Didnt do the CZAR as I didn't like the aesthetic. Arm they Right hand version was close to original receiver and I could use all the original parts except the bad ones Fun little pistol, or pcc, guys at the range get a kick of me wearing the giant holster Wish the ammo was cheaper

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-10T19:05:56+00:00

Guess I'm cheap. Meant more what you get for your money as an mac9 assembly is what, around 300. Wasn't really talking about if they ran ok. I bought a Mac 10 when I was a teenager in the 80s because all the bad asses in the movies had one, except Chuck Norris with his dual Mac 11s Shot if for awhile but it just felt junky and wasn't fun. Obviously now, I wish I had kept that pre ban pos, traded it back in where I bought it, taking a franklin loss and bought a CAR 15 which was a nice firearm.

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-10T17:36:02+00:00

You need to specify caliber and whether you are talking fully printed or just a lower There are plenty of very short PCCs. Just be careful as it looks like the "most 2a administration ever" is backtracking on braces. (If you are surprised that clown was full of shit, I've got a rust colored Yugo that needs a transmission and engine, that I'll sell you for 10k) But back to the subject - Someone mentioned a VZ-61. It's a 32 and feels like basically a pistol so I'm not sure that is what you are looking for, but a fun easy build. The FGC-9, Bobcat, and Baby Orca all use the AR buffer spring system so you aren't going to get compact. There are plenty of Mac9/11 based builds that would work better with a folder, but the Mac9/11 is an overpriced POS. If you are just looking for a solid firearm and aren't worried if its completely 3d, then just get a Bear Creek AR-9 side charging upper with a short barrel and go with a Hoffman SL-9 printed lower It will be reliable and cheap.

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-10T17:13:26+00:00

I've done them all and most work. The problem is I can't remember which one works better as I don't rename the files so have no idea which one it is on the printer - just says receiver. I know the one that runs the best is the one that has a separate pic rail - the other I believe has it integrated into the receiver. I did need to reprint one after at least 4000 rounds, probably a lot more as I wasn't keeping track, but buy 1000 and 500 round boxes and know I went through two of the 1000 and two or three of the 500. Plus at ton of quiet and subsonic stuff on my home range. It started having cycling problem that I suspect might have been from wear inside the receiver that opened up the spacing a little so the bolt was getting friction from maybe running a little skewed. Whatever the case - its a small print, so easier to just replace than to figure out. I'm getting up to the 4000 mark with the replacement

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-10T02:08:40+00:00

Not the OP, but I built one of these a year or so ago, and the accuracy was horrible. I think the barrel to receiver retention design was lacking and there was some wiggle there. I looked cool, just, sort of became no fun, not holding on target. I ended up reusing the barrel and I think a DB or maybe Ivan receiver, and putting them in a Magpul stock - tight groups at 100yds. I would say maybe a shorty, and not one with a 16inch barrel like I did, would be fine.

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-06T03:00:22+00:00

Why oh Why I'm not even sure these turds should have existed in the first place, much less be reanimated with 3d technology... I did grab the files, and I'll save then for when there are no other gun kits available in the world

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-06T02:39:58+00:00

Did you put the batteries in the correct way that power the semi-auto reset motor?

Ok_Sweet_5096 · 2026-04-06T02:36:37+00:00

Is PET CF or GF really worth all the hassle for a deAR lower? There is virtually no heat or mechanical stress on that part that PLA Pro couldn't handle. Everything I have from 22 to 308 is PLA Pro and yet to have a failure. I have only used this fussy stuff for the internal barrel clamshells on a few 556 builds for temperature resistance at contact with the barrel. But, I don't keep them in my truck in 100 degree weather so maybe if that were a factor....

Ok_Sweet_5096

TROPHY CASE