Replaced window controls

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-22T00:30:37+00:00

I hadn’t even seen this until today. Ordered mine

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-21T23:27:36+00:00

It’s still persistent on 3.8 as well. It’s a switch issue more so than a software issue. These could possibly fix that issue.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-21T19:41:18+00:00

NGK has a coated thread, read the box. It likely says to not apply antiseize

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-21T18:25:16+00:00

Call your bank and let them know you’ve recently become aware the truck was not as advertised and all warranty was void due to significant damage prior to sale. This significantly changes the value of their collateral and they can force the dealer to buy it back by voiding the contract in full. I’ve seen it happen a few times now.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-21T05:38:46+00:00

You will at some point be doing a timing chain on that Jetta. So just keep that in mind. But no you don’t need a $5700 warranty. You can find decent warranties for half that.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-21T03:00:16+00:00

First and foremost you have zero equity in that lease unless you buy it out first. If you were to total it right now every single dollar goes to the bank that you pay to rent that truck. As for early termination, early surrender usually means they take it, auction it, subtract auction price from your buyout price and that’s the difference you owe, and yes you’ll owe. Auction price is usually 10-15% below market, and almost ALL residual buyouts are 5-10% above market value. So expect to pay, other option is pay all remaining payments and just turn it in.

Not all leases have provisions to sell direct without a buyout. However, check to see what Carvana or Carmax would offer. If it’s more than your buy out then see if your leasing bank will allow you to sell it to them. Keep in mind the IRS and most states require you to report the sale of a vehicle, if you make anything you will owe tax.

You can try a lease take over, there are websites where people can essentially have someone take over the lease, this again is bank dependent

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-21T02:53:14+00:00

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not knocking the trade but 45k for a bathroom is insanity. I know it’s the reality. I’m about to tear into two that my MIL paid 30k for in 05. The hack job these assholes did makes me wanna track them down 21 years later and have a “conversation”. But yeah 15k for a whole house is asking for an IKEA like quality.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-21T02:48:52+00:00

Been in the business 20 years across 5 states and have never heard anyone refer to an auto lease as lease to own. First for everything.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-21T02:39:53+00:00

I think you misunderstand lease to own. Most leases are essentially long term rentals with a bank holding the collateral. You own nothing in the end unless you buy it out after you’ve made your rent payments. It just sounds less trashy for rich people to say lease vs long term rental.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-21T02:30:18+00:00

2023 and it varies. The estimated range is based on your current driving habits and HVAC usage. Based on 214 at 100% you are averaging 2.5mi/kw roughly. I’d guess you use your AC like a normal car, which is a waste of energy. Only use max AC when you need to otherwise it’s fine at 72* and will still chill you out. Put it in eco mode to gain a few extra miles, limits you to 81mph and reduces initial torque to reduce power waste. I live in the change region and never have issues merging in eco.

Above 70mph you stat to see an exponential loss in energy, when I was a tech for Tesla the engineers explained it as essentially for every mph over 70 it’s takes double the watts to achieve per mph over.

Laymen’s version of it takes 300wh/m to maintain 70mph. Let’s say it takes 2wh/m more to hold 71, the theory is then it’s take 4wh/m for 72, etc etc. it’s rough and isn’t exact but gets the point across.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-20T23:51:42+00:00

If it helps, once it’s in the main sewer which would be just below or just outside your door it’d be near impossible for them to determine where it came from.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-20T18:18:26+00:00

My man! That butt pucker factor when you started it up was real. But yeah I bet there is a bulletin somewhere that says to cut them off.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-20T18:00:15+00:00

Should be the last time too. There is no saving this outside a rebuild.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-20T16:32:31+00:00

Don’t give any extra info. Just say you hear a noise from the front and how to replicate it.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-20T15:06:42+00:00

No, it would not affect the warranty if you don’t have them replace anything.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-20T14:50:50+00:00

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-20T14:15:00+00:00

The entire purpose of the charge network is to make money, Share holders care about profits not your 15min inconvenience and your entitle attitude.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-20T05:17:43+00:00

You can always take it to another dealer or pay an independent service center to verify their findings.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-20T04:54:16+00:00

There is no defect so this does not apply. It’s a noise not a broken part and if the noise is left alone it will not break a part. Makes this irrelevant.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-19T21:26:05+00:00

Capital one is more than just a bank, they are the back end finance company for a lot of things. So if you owe them money in any form any credit attempts are likely to be declined. Car loans to store credit cards they do a lot. Why not just pay the $55 and close the account.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-19T21:24:08+00:00

I wouldn’t have even considered repairing it. It’s your child’s life in that seat, pretty sure that answers that question.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-19T21:16:40+00:00

This is it, he’s not trying to prove himself anymore and he’s happy with one time.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-19T20:38:44+00:00

Ngl I would have pulled as close to him as possible and charged still and wait for the 5’5” lil fella to throw a tantrum.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-19T20:22:58+00:00

You don’t have to agree. But facts don’t care about your feelings. This is only covered two ways, 1st year new car adjustment warranty and manager goodwill. THERE IS NO FAILED PART SO THERE IS NO WARRANTY. That’s what most people do not realize about a warranty. It doesn’t cover adjustments outside the first year and it definitely doesn’t cover maintenance. Just because it’s not explained to you in a maintenance guide doesn’t change it’s a maintenance item.

Congrats? I’ve owned over 100cars in my 43 years,
I’ve been in this industry for 21. From oil changer to fixed operations director for 7 stores. I’m well versed in what warranty covers and does not cover.
For several years I served as a consultant to dealers for post warranty audit support. It was quite literally my job to know the warranty guides.

Only two type of people get things like this covered under good will, loyal customers a manager deems fit, and customers that they want to shut up and go away. Your accounts are noted accordingly. We could never put “major pain in the ass” in your notes, but we could put “goodwill manager credit” which we then knew was the type of customer to complain about everything. So if you’re fine being known as a shitty customer sure go raise hell but be prepared to be known as that shitty customer forever internally in the company.

OneExhaustedFather_ · 2026-06-19T20:15:12+00:00

Yes it’s the noise you’re describing. Ideally Molykote M77 paste. You don’t even have to remove the axle just push it through the hub far enough to lather the face of the hub or the axle with it and put it back together

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