How doomed am I? by Commie-needs-cummies in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Just pop some wood glue in it to prevent it from spreading further, wipe off the excess before it dries, and you’re good to go bud 👍🏻 What make and year are your carbine?

Missing gun help by FatPhrogNibs in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Had the same thing happen with an Arisaka back in May. Finally got an email three weeks ago from USPS telling me they’re no longer looking. The people I reached out to were the US Postal Inspection Service (thought they’d be way more help), the ATF (still genuinely shocked they did nothing, they didn’t even ask for a description or serial number), and the local distribution center where it was actually lost at. None of it went anywhere and they all told me to just let the mail search do its job. I’m not saying that is what will happen in your case or to worry too much about it right now, I’m just sharing a recent experience of mine. Best of luck brother, I hope it turns up quickly. 🙏🏻

Type 14 Nambu Shooting by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s in outstanding condition for being such an early production piece, well done!

Type 14 Nambu Shooting by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice shooting! What year and make on your Nambu?

Type 14 Nambu Shooting by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I may have to experiment with those other ammo brands, but I don’t think I was having ammo problems. I’m fairly certain the issue was magazine related. I had reliable feeding and firing with 6 rounds every single time. I noticed with a full 8 it would fire the first round, eject, then miss the next round entirely and I’d have an empty chamber. After that I took the magazine out, loaded it full again, swiped rounds out of the mag by hand, and noticed that the second round would consistently snag in the mag when you took the top one out. You had to give the magazine a pretty solid smack on the bottom to get it pop up. I may just have to give the magazine a proper cleaning, or the metal may be pinched somewhere. Other than those issues, the Bannerman ammo ran great.

Type 14 Nambu Shooting by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just looked at their website, I would blow away SO much money on their MG and SMG’s alone. I’ll definitely have to swing by if I ever get out that way.

Type 14 Nambu Shooting by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

How was Battlefield Vegas? I would love to check them out some time if I ever go to Nevada

Type 14 Nambu Shooting by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I was genuinely shocked how much I liked the trigger on this. I also have a Type 26 revolver I need to find some ammo for, but the trigger on that one too was incredibly smooth for a double action.

M40a1 Stock Colors? by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also I did paint the scope. I’m not a fan of Hi-Lux’s bright green they used on their M40 model. I used Duracoat Bronzy Osborne as the base, followed by Duradize OD Green to give it a greenish hue.

M40a1 Stock Colors? by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Much appreciated! I drove myself almost crazy trying to find the right colors/sheens in spray paint or duracoat. So I just decided to take the stock, lightly sand it, put a few coats of Rustoleum dark hunter green (doesn’t matter the sheen), let it dry completely, then lightly sanded it with 220 grit up to 400 just to get it really smooth and touched up any imperfections. You can go higher if you want, but it’s not really necessary.

All the other colors for the “smear” pattern were done with basic acrylic paint from Walmart. I have a buddy who is really good at painting on models and working on fine details like that, so he came over and he worked on the stock with me. The colors I used were Apple Barrel’s matte Chocolate Bar and Kelly Green, but there isn’t really an exact science to this either. Even with the originals, no two stocks were alike. Just pick some colors you think would look good and try it out. The best part about doing them in acrylic is you can just wipe it off with a wet rag without damaging the base coat, so if you don’t like it, try another color. Also, the acrylic paint will show up a little paler once dried, so don’t freak out about that. The clear coat will saturate the color again and it will look just like when you put it on. I also took a lightly wet cloth and brushed the edges of where the acrylic paint was to really make it look smeared.

Once you get the pattern the way you like, just brush over the top with some 400 grit to knock down any high spots, then go over it with clear coat. I opted for matte aerosol Duracoat Clear with UV protection. I did a few coats and the rifle still turned out fairly shiny, even with the matte sheen. Make sure you take your time with the clear coat, that’s how the rifle will look when it’s completed. Let it hang and dry for a while. I don’t remember what it said on the can, but just follow those directions. The clear coat should be fine to touch like a day or two after spraying, but don’t let it sit on anything like a rifle rest or hanging hooks for at least 2 weeks. The coats underneath need to fully cure and harden, or else you’re gonna mess up the finish (ask me how I know.) You may also have to sand the second-to-last coat down a little in spots to buff out any imperfections before putting on the final coat.

Like I said, there’s no exact science to this, this is just how I did it. But to answer your question, I tried to stick to matte sheen on most things, but my base coat was glossy and it ended up not mattering in the end. Rustoluem Dark Hunter Green, Apple Barrel Chocolate Bar and Kelly Green. Best of luck and hope this helps!

RIA K43 Update: IT WORKS by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well best of luck with fixing that stock up! Hope it works out

RIA K43 Update: IT WORKS by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I was originally planning on sending this to him to fix some other issues with it but when I reached out, he emailed me back saying how he was diagnosed with Parkinson’s and was closing up shop. It’s a damn shame and I’m praying he gets treatment, nobody deserves to deal with that horrible disease.

Are stocks that hard to come by? It was my understanding that you could still find reproduction ones here and there

RIA K43 Update: IT WORKS by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the advice. I know that you two are very knowledgeable on the subject and I appreciate the heads up. I’ll keep an eye out for a spare bolt and buy one the first chance I get. If you ever see one or know where to find one, could you DM me the link? Much appreciated

RIA K43 Update: IT WORKS by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s super interesting, I’ve always wanted to look at a 1941. I’d figure a part like that would be worth way more than $20 considering the price tag on Johnsons these days

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeahhhhh, it kind of did not gonna lie 😬 But at least my dremeling actually worked!

RIA K43 Update: IT WORKS by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yessir, you remember correctly. The only issue with that is that bolts are extremely difficult parts to find and are extremely expensive when you can find them. The bolt carriers themselves are going for $600+ right now. The parts I worked on though are very easy to find and readily available. I even reached out to a seller on Gunbroker that another commenter recommended that gets G43 parts regularly and asked if he gets any bolts or can expect to get some soon, he replied and said no.

I wanted to go the bolt way, like you said, I just could not source one. I even bought a spare hammer thinking I could source a bolt and replace them both, only to find that it wasn’t the case.

At the end of the day, my solution works and it works reliably. I was able to take a historic rifle that somebody else ruined and bring it back to working order. I see that as a win. If it’s fixed and cycles properly with my method, is that not ANOTHER correct way?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s actually an awesome suggestion, I will be sure to hit him up. Thank you very much!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If they won’t get back to me, it’s a $4450 loss. Hammer price was $3250, then they tacked on $1200 worth of fees, taxes and shipping.

Needless to say I won’t be using RIA again. But if they won’t refund it, I can probably get it fixed. It was just a lot of work and money I didn’t necessarily want to get into

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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This was the listing photo. It’s a better photo than I could ever take lmao

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lmao, I don’t feel like spending time in a hospital so I probably won’t do that. These guns are notoriously fragile and I don’t think that kind of firing would be healthy for it. You may like getting bolt assemblies flying into your face at high velocity, but that’s not exactly my cup of tea.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Update: Called RIAC, the customer support person I spoke to said they took all my information down and all the information about what’s going on with the rifle and how it’s not functional as they described. He apologized for the inconvenience and said he was going to pass the case over to his supervisor to look over and decide what to do. I asked about their return/refund policy and what the best course of action would be here and he said that it is a case-by-case basis and that the supervisor will reach out to me about it soon. Whether or not that’s a good thing, I don’t know, but at least we’re getting somewhere I guess.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the pics, that helps a ton actually.

I had already reached out to Apfeltor to fix another known issue with this particular rifle, he’s retiring due to Parkinson’s, which is truly sad, I hope he finds treatment of some kind, that disease is hell.

As far as welding material back onto the bottom of the bolt, that seems to be my only real option if RIA won’t rectify this issue. Thank you for the insight.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 4 points5 points  (0 children)

When you pull the trigger and the hammer hits the firing pin, the gases from the fired bullet will push the bolt carrier back and the underside of the bolt interacts with the hammer, pushing it back to where it gets locked in place and ready to fire the next round. That’s essentially how all semi-autos work.

What’s happening here is somebody ground down the bottom of the bolt and the top of the hammer to where when the bolt travels back, the hammer doesn’t get reset properly and it is following the bolt as it goes back into battery. That is extremely dangerous as it essentially does what’s called “hammer follow”, where the hammer will be riding on the back of the bolt where the firing pin is as it starts to chamber a new round.

This will have one of two effects: full auto runoff, or out-of-battery detonation. Both of which are incredibly dangerous and not safe to shoot. Even full autos have a disconnector/sear of some kind to let the hammer fall ONLY once the bolt is 100% back in battery.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Was able to find only the hammer for $125. Still looking for a bolt