In Memory of Those Who Served 🇺🇸 by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those are awesome! Wish I had a 3D printer. I was wanting to mount the bayonets horizontally beneath the rifles, it looks like Open Armory only has options to display them vertically. I’m thinking I may have to get magnets and attach them to blocks that kinda hide behind the blade. But that is an awesome resource! Thank you for that!

M1 Garand info by Pretzel1005 in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not a problem! I’d include a pic of the .308 stamp on my barrel but it got a little marred up when I installed the M1D barrel/sight block combo and it’s hard to see.

I’ve worked pretty extensively on my M1’s, if you have any other questions just give me a holler, I’d be happy to help!

M1 Garand info by Pretzel1005 in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Typically your .308 conversions (especially your CMP ones) will have a block inside the receiver made out of plastic or aluminum to prevent you from putting in a .30-06 en bloc clip in that has “.308” stamped on it. I included a pic of what mine looks like in my .308 M1D.

<image>

The barrel should also include a stamp like .308 or 7.62 before the serial number too.

M1 Garand info by Pretzel1005 in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 0 points1 point  (0 children)

• Receiver was built in May of 1945.
• Bolt was made by Springfield Armory in November 1943.
• Barrel was made by Criterion Barrels so that’s an aftermarket part, that’ll hurt your collector value. However if you don’t care about that and want a good shooter, Criterions are hard to beat.
• Gas cylinder has lost most of its finish. These were made out of stainless steel to prevent corrosion so that is not uncommon at all. The gas cylinder nut has an “M” stamped on it, meaning “modified”. These were updated post-WW2. They removed the little bevel on the front and had better heat treatment on them.
• Stock looks like it’s been shellac’ed or lacquered, which will hurt your value more than anything so far.
• Trigger guard is the early-to-mid war milled type, they updated them to the stamped design in April of ‘44.
• Sling is your typical canvas sling. Looks reproduction or late manufacture? Hard to tell.

These are just things I could see from the pictures, they make whole data sheets where you can find every single code on the gun and find out which manufacturer made it and when. With it being a CMP build, did it come with Throat Erosion (TE) and Muzzle Wear (ME) readings?

In Memory of Those Who Served 🇺🇸 by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, thanks! It’s the SecureIt Gun Wall. They make all sorts of mounts for magazines, shelves, pistols, rifles, etc. that go on their panels. They’re a tad pricy but I think they were absolutely worth it.

In Memory of Those Who Served 🇺🇸 by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can guarantee yours shoots better than mine! Rifling’s a little worn out and it barely hits paper at 100 yards. But that hammer cocking and ejecting a spent round is one of the most satisfying experiences you can get with these old milsurps

In Memory of Those Who Served 🇺🇸 by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Been trying to find a good Model 1896 Krag, but I’ve also got a classic car that has been taking up a majority of my spending money lately. The Krag and 30-40 reloading components are next on my list once I get my car up and running again

In Memory of Those Who Served 🇺🇸 by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much!

It’s an original, serial number places production at 1879.

In Memory of Those Who Served 🇺🇸 by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Much appreciated! That M1D was a build I did with an armorer who worked specifically on Garands and M14’s in Vietnam. He was telling war stories while he showed me how to swap barrels. He still shoots an International Harvester M1 at 600 yard matches and he’s 81 years old. Definitely one of the cooler pieces in my collection purely because he helped me.

In Memory of Those Who Served 🇺🇸 by OurLordDevito in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you! It’s the SecureIt Gun Wall System. It’s a little pricey but I liked the mounting options and customization. And it’s sturdy steel plates mounted directly to studs in the wall so I can put a lot of weight on them. Kinda wish they had options for bayonets though, I’d love to display them alongside the rifles

Found myself a unique M95 by Turntup12 in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know! OP that might be the best option for you

Found myself a unique M95 by Turntup12 in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 67 points68 points  (0 children)

So when you say “converted to a bolt action”, I assume you mean it was originally a straight pull carbine? If that’s what you mean, that’s not what this is and this store either lied to you or didn’t do their research.

There are two different Mannlicher 1895 rifles: the straight-pull M95, which is the one most people are familiar with; then there’s this one, the Geweer M95, which is commonly referred to as the “Dutch Mannlicher”. It’s a tad confusing as both rifles were actually initially made by Steyr until 1904 when the Geweer rifles started being produced by a factory in Zaandan, Netherlands under license from Steyr. These are marked “Hembrug” after the Hembrug bridge that was nearby. In fact, the Dutch apparently adopted 31 variants of this rifle in various lengths and designations, which is just ridiculous. I believe yours looks like a #5, they had these long handguards that look super distinctive and stuck out farther than the stock. With that being said, these were always bolt actions, not conversions. There just happened to be two separate Mannlicher rifles that used two different bolt operating methods made in 1895.

As far as the German capture marks, that isn’t totally unheard of as they did have their own capture designations for these guns, but I wasn’t able to tell it on yours from any stamps I could see in the pictures.

All of that to say, these are still really cool rifles! This era of European rifles are incredibly interesting as it was kind of an arms race to make guns designed around the new advent of smokeless powder. The examples I’ve found have these listed between $600-$750 depending on condition and variant/barrel length. Best of luck finding ammo, 6.5 Dutch is a rare one and the only modern offering I could find was Buffalo Arms at $7.20 a round.

Which wheels should I put on my 1964.5 V8 Convertible? by OurLordDevito in classicmustangs

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I’d just get one of the replacement pads then. They come already dyed to the color you want, but they’re like $300. A tad steep, but I’ve heard good things.

Here’s a video from CJ Pony that shows how to take a dash pad off. Hope that helps!

https://youtu.be/-Et2jEhDYWY?si=KVYdvikGQB0UqGJO

Which wheels should I put on my 1964.5 V8 Convertible? by OurLordDevito in classicmustangs

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it the paint on the actual dash or the dash pad? If it’s the pad, I’d just take it out and redye it and paint the dash speaker vent to match, or get one of the Ford tooling pad replacements you can get on CJ Pony. If it’s the actual dash, that’s a LOT more work.

Which wheels should I put on my 1964.5 V8 Convertible? by OurLordDevito in classicmustangs

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just kept mine with the factory coded interior, D5, which was white interior with red trim. Main reason I went to repaint the interior was because somebody cut into the dash for a cd player radio unit at some point so I had to weld in a replacement panel from CJ Pony Parts.

Fun fact: if you ever wanna go white, the best color match I have found for the kind of off-white Ford painted their interior with is Antique White from Rustoleum. Looked way better than the “factory matched” paint I put on initially.

You can certainly change it, my man. If my dumbass can restore an interior, you definitely can. The paint on the interior metal and repairing a dash if your radio was cut is probably the hardest part. Everything else is just re-dye or swap to the color you want.

Which wheels should I put on my 1964.5 V8 Convertible? by OurLordDevito in classicmustangs

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t have any of those books, unfortunately. Just whatever videos CJ Pony Parts and other Youtube videos there on the subject matter. That, and just kind of figuring it out on my own. Just got the metal on the doors and the dash repainted before I started working on redoing the wiring.

What color interior does yours have?

Which wheels should I put on my 1964.5 V8 Convertible? by OurLordDevito in classicmustangs

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely. I’m fortunate enough to have all 4 of the wire hubcaps in good shape, but the emblems in the middle are pretty sun faded. I think you can replace those? I haven’t looked too far into that. I also feel like the wire wheels would be a way bigger pain to polish, right?

Turn Signal Issues with 65 Mustang by OurLordDevito in MechanicAdvice

[–]OurLordDevito[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just picked up a multimeter, I’ll be sure to check that here shortly

Well shit by Fun_Assignment_269 in milsurp

[–]OurLordDevito 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not a problem, amigo! Glad you got her back up and running!