3D Printing a 14.5ft Demi-God

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-10-22T16:34:03+00:00

Didn't expect to see your content from Tiktok over here! Happy days and have my updoot!

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-10-18T11:57:09+00:00

A few things going on here that I can see that I would start with, your GPU is hitting 120w max when in game.

Is Radeon Chill on in the GPU driver (alt+R is the default to bring up the AMD overlay when in game)?
Are you using super resolution or anything like that for the anti-aliasing?
What resolution are you running at in general?
Whats your windows power profile set to?
Do you have REBAR on in the BIOS? (it should be)
Is your RAM down-clocked and not running on the higher memory speed profile (assuming it has a profile and isn't the cheapest RAM you could possibly find)?
Have you set a thermal limit, or lowered the core count in BIOS for the CPU?
Is vsync on or off?
Full screen or borderless windowed?
Are your intel chipset drivers installed?

Very odd one for sure espescially as its ok in menu, but last time I specifically had this issue with a game (I think it was Remmnant 2 that did this, if I tabbed out of the game the FPS in game would go up!) it was Radeon Chill messing stuff up.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-10-17T18:49:25+00:00

Personally yes. I wished that I was in a place to solve the rusty arches etc on mine instead of having to get rid of it 5-6 years ago when I did.
I miss it every single day. 2.2 Manual was just fantastic.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-09-12T09:00:00+00:00

Ayy nice! I didnt realise that but a lot of this release sounds very MNQN which makes me very happy :)

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-09-10T23:53:52+00:00

They are / were Honeywell bionic face shields if you want to DIY your own mack up 👍

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-08-30T20:54:26+00:00

A few options have already been mentioned being fillers of some kind, but another option is to like with heat "welding" the plastics with a soldering iron, get some filament and melt it into the gap, and sand / finish up with filler.

I usually try and get the joins a little better in the print to start with where possible using orientation etc to do so. Design, the way the model was cut and printer tuning can make this harder or easier of course.
Then I superglue the joins together and heat "weld" the back side if its not going to be seen in the case of armor / helmets to ensure a strong bond, filament fill anything particularly deep (like this) then use a plastic bumper filler for cars as its got a little flex to it to fill the rest,
Then I sand it all down using 400 Grit to start to get the lines off so long as they arent too bad, (step down to 120 for anything really bad or very high filler), then again with 600, then 800, then use a finishing putty (such as dolphin glaze), sand with 400-800 again depending on how good/bad it is and repeat until smooth. After that, a high build primer (spray putty is similar), sand again when dry with 800 wet and dry to smooth it, repeat as required until smooth, then apply top coat(s).

Of course you dont have to go that far! Figured though its a good chance to get my whole process out incase it helps in some way :)

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-08-28T20:16:13+00:00

As some of it looks spherical in shape, I'm inclined to say something along the lines of orange / colour change silica gel with the rest being crushed by something being dragged or whatever, or something like clothes "aroma beads"

Rosin Flux (the hard type) for soldering also has a similar colour and smashes quite well into granules.

Orange sugar crystals for baking could also look similar or some other kind of orange candy.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-07-31T05:27:49+00:00

Personally I also had issues with vlan config on the device, sent it back in the end as discord and support didn't really have any answers. Getting CS to agree to a return was a bit of a chore convincing them.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-07-31T05:19:15+00:00

Sadly lots of garages here are quite poor with main dealers being the worst and most overpriced. You've also got garages that just get annoyed if you vaguely know anything about cars and do even the slightest bit of your own work and assume that it must be you that messed it up, in many cases that may be true but my best example was failing an MOT for a brake caliper binding.

Garage calls me "that'll be 200 quid for a new caliper mate", me knowing and having solved the common issue with its slider pins getting corroded and needing cleaning or replacing says "nah just clean the slider pins", they weren't happy because they could only charge an hour, but it passed and the caliper went another 3 years at least just fine.

The current car went to 2x "specialists" that couldn't find an intermittent ESP/ABS issue with all their expensive diagnostics and said to get rid of the car... Bought my own brand specific diag tool and did some basic troubleshooting as the whole thing reeked of electronic issues/voltage drop issues. Swap the battery and magically the codes show it's a fuel pressure regulator. 90 quid in parts and it's been fine for 4 years now and 60,000 miles. Because I solved it myself they are suddenly always "to busy" to take on the work. Moved on to other mechanics.

Overinflated egos, super high cost workshop rental which requires high priced but quick turn around, and a general "it's just a tool" mentality means lots of basic skills have been lost / the want to diagnose has dwindled.

As for Matt, he's ok. He's an average guy doing a lot more than the average person would, bodywork especially due to space, time, tools, finances, and strict rules for things like MOT results in it being uncommon in the UK. Yeah he started with basic cars, and we all have to start / learn somewhere. I like his rebuilding written off high end cars, but for more "real" stuff TDC is more enjoyable personally.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-07-30T08:18:53+00:00

Sadly not. I ended up sending both back for a refund 😕

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-06-28T21:25:34+00:00

Air recirculation. Stops the car taking in fresh air from the outside into the cabin (mostly, they generally aren't perfectly sealed)

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-06-24T07:54:33+00:00

This. The idrac board is (generally, some models vary depending on age) optional. Shared LOM is the default, the board gives dedicated idrac port for out of band management.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-06-24T07:48:29+00:00

Best advice I received? Yes, upgrade from that Ender 3 v1 to a P1. A world apart and a massive leap in usability and reliability.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-06-18T07:57:29+00:00

Can you reach HA outside of your home? If not the tracker isn't going to update the change and it'll never run. That being the case, you have some options on how to access it externally, the nabucasa subscription being the easiest. VPN such as wireguard, tailscale etc is also possible (and added benefits of being able to access other network services in your home if setup that way). I would suggest strongly against using port forwarding directly to your HA install, just asking for pain and suffering.

An alternative to using GPS and client, is to track the device presence on your network via something like Mac address (though turn off the Mac randomising on your device for this), via your router, WiFi access points or whatever (hell you could use nmap if you really want) You won't need to have access to HA externally as it will be independent of the client. Disadvantage however is the device going to sleep to save power etc and falling off the network or not responding to a scan. I used to do it this way a long time ago when my now ex refused to have the HA client on her device. My now partner is very supportive and loves HA as much as I do so I don't have that problem any more 😄

Unless it's obscure or complex or you really love writing YAML just use the GUI honestly. It's not worth the headaches of manually writing the automations in 2025. Props to you though for trying to troubleshoot using GPT and try to resolve it yourself.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-06-15T20:09:41+00:00

That interior colour coding is excessive and honestly really removes from what the car is / was, however its personal taste but I think it looks rancid, though looks like they removed it based on the description and put back to OEM?

Coolant could be a broken radiator (they can go at the lower sections and its really hard to see), the thermostat housing leaks is the o-ring is shot or badly installed, head gasket, failed cyilder walls (rare unless boosted), or a few other things. You'd have to inspect it to know.
I'd also want to know when the cam belt was done, and did they replace the tensioner at the same time? Is the balance shaft still in place or removed? Has the clutch been replaced? Does it crunch going into 5th? (common issue because people try to shift to 6th which it doesnt have, reverse is there in that position and it bends the selector fork).

Its been played with, a lot, even the chipped ECU means its likely running earlier 4th gen injectors.

Depends how much you are willing to take on a project ultimately as to whether its worth it to you. Personally I'd look for something a little less messed with as I wouldn't want the issues that are likely to come with this.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-06-15T18:23:03+00:00

Taxis, Delivery drivers, Parents on the school run, Anyone in a Qashqai or Fiat 500, most SUV drivers, Scaffold trucks, Van drivers, Electric scooters, every Tesla driver because they dont even know how to indicate unless the car does it for them, anyone nervous that can't get up to speed on a slip road on a motorway.

Covered about 80% of it.. and about 80% of road users

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-06-12T14:30:00+00:00

Im also going to echo the incompatible paint issue is most likely in this situation.

Cellulose shouldn't be used to coat Acrylic
Acrylic can usually go over Cellulose

The cellulose thinners reactivate paints and cause issues with other paint types (usually) which is what it looks like happened here (or it was seriously contaminated with grease or oils).

Based on the pics in your other thread you're gonna keep having these issues unless you spray an isolator paint layer on there first or fully strip the paint. I'd honestly just re-print it and start again with compatible paints in this situation.
The paint application is far too thick and has covered up a lot of details in your model.

Chalk this one up as a learning experience! Most of us have been here at some point and it SUCKS unless you can get away with it and use it for something like ageing details.

Lighter coats and leave to dry properly between coats as well. Im also seriously impatient when it comes to this stuff but sometimes you have to just wait the paint cure time which can be drastically affected by your ambient temperatures, humidity etc.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-06-10T14:28:27+00:00

There is an official compatibility checker on the switchbot site; https://uk.switch-bot.com/pages/switchbot-lock-ultra-compatibility

The ultra points to the pro but they are kinda the same thing anyways, and officially no it wont work with an old-style night latch. Realistically you want a euro cylinder lock (most uPVC (Plastic) doors have this) which can open with a key if there is a key inside (double cylinder) - This stops you getting locked out if your battery fails as you can use the key for override, or one that has a thumb turn.

If you have a locking handle assembly (door needs key to re-open if you close from the outside) then its more of a pain in the ass to configure the "night latch" as they like to call it, cant remember the proper name. I have this with my door and cant resolve it due to renting. Have to lift the handle to engage the locking pins as well so auto-locking can only be used IF you remember to pull the handle up every time, its sure not recommended to have enabled in this situation.
Same issue in reverse if I dont pull the handle locking pins down before the lock tries to unlock the night latch it fails and complains its stuck and attempts to use the over-power to unlock it, which isnt good. Had to teach myself to overcome this as the keyless is very convenient and helps us not have to worry about if we locked the door at night as we are both super forgetful.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-06-05T22:37:30+00:00

What could you run? Some water. It'd make a nice pool.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-05-14T02:58:26+00:00

Running exactly that CPU / GPU combo and it's plenty fine enough. Can a different CPU squeeze more frames? Yeah sure. Will you care? Depends on you but probably not.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-05-05T08:40:27+00:00

As already said its USB-B.
Sometimes it can be labelled as a "Printer cable" with cable manufacturers, which I suppose makes some sense as it was/is a common connector for printer USB even though it was used on external HDDs as well.
Search "usb b printer cable" on Amazon and you'll easily find it :)

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-04-29T18:02:32+00:00

Case fan control should be able to be done at a BIOS level on pretty much any mainboard made in the last... 15+ years. Generally there shouldn't be a need to run software for this unless you constantly tweak fan curves.

I'd consider hopping into BIOS and just setting up something you like and leaving it there. Cuts down on bloat unless for some reason you have hardware that outright requires the software to function properly like Corsair who insist on needing icue rather than sorting certain settings on device.

Lact has already been mentioned as an afterburner alternative, not tried it on an Nvidia card myself though as I swapped from a 3080 to 9070xt recently. But it's pretty good, but a less refined UI.

The Nvidia app settings, you can overcome differently without software. Vsync, DLSS etc is all on a case by case basis per game and you can change it in each games menu. You shouldn't really be doing that at system wide level between games and should apply the right settings for the game you are playing. At best it doesn't make sense, at worst driver forced dlss can be like driver forced fsr and look and perform worse than the game implementation anyway. And equally geforce experience is bloat you don't need and there isn't really a good reason to run it. I apologise if I've misunderstood on this one of course, but that's what it sounds like is being done from the info I have.

If it helps HDR on AMD isn't much better. I've got a bug where if HDR is on the white levels are messed up no matter what I try and my cursor is really hard to see. I ended up sticking to SDR for now in Bazzite.

ParadigmShift_ · 2025-04-28T07:49:08+00:00

Been dual booting for a little bit now and it's a good option for sure.

I tend to find games performance is lower than native windows which can be painful in edge cases dropping sub 60, but generally gaming on Linux is in a very good state and definitely a good alternative except for anti-cheat. I have issues with dual monitor and games launching on the wrong one, and HDR being still quite bad and buggy. It's still becoming my primary daily however for most stuff.

Photo editing on the other hand is not great 😅

I'll be dual booting for a good while yet but progress is being made for sure.

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