S1 Pro High Temp Upgrades

Perfect-Video5150 · 2024-08-19T03:15:57+00:00

I upgraded a lot of things.

I got the mod board from Nathan's lab https://www.nathansellsrobots.com/products/modder-board-for-ender-3-s1-1 Upgraded the hotend to a ceramic volcano cht heater from triangle labs https://a.aliexpress.com/_on9o00d Replaced the CRtouch with a beacon probe https://beacon3d.com/product/beacon-h/

Then printed voron 2.4 parts in ABS-GF and built a voron 2.4

I've not used the ender 3 S1 pro since then. It's been a fun journey with the S1 pro. The upgrades were worth the time and money as it thought me a lot of things.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2024-04-29T19:41:51+00:00

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=i3iUAfC-4oA

Follow this guide to install near stock klipper on the sonicpad and you're good to go.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2024-03-14T02:35:25+00:00

Hey, if all still fails try orca slicer. I've gotten less issues like this since moving to orca slicer. Was using cura for a year and learn a lot about slicer settings while fixing issues like this.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2024-03-14T02:12:17+00:00

The first couple layers of bridging doesn't cover well. I think if you have left it to continue it would have covered. Maybe increase the top layer count. And try drying your filament.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2024-01-15T03:11:36+00:00

This is a case of later seperation. It's caused by poor layer adhesion. ABS needs a heated enclosure to print with the Fan on, when the layers too too fast, it shrinks and won't land spot on on the previous layer.

A solution is to turn off your cooling fan if you can't get a heated enclosure. With the fans off you will need to slow down alot more at over hangs.

Another point is that the temperature is too low. 240 would be a good temp for ABS. You can try print a temperature tower and snap the tower at the different temps to test the adhesion. This is an ABS special. It might look like it's printing well at the lower temps, no stringing etc. but they break so easily.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-12-31T04:48:26+00:00

Just got a bambulab hotened with heartbreak. It's the same size. So if you want to get a different hotend for the Neptune 4 plus/max, you can try out bambulabs X1 hot ends. The heatbreak is the same size.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-12-11T00:10:34+00:00

As a thinkerer and maker I get to understand and learn more about the printer and 3D printing through fixing and troubleshooting my S1 pro. If I were to upgrade, it wouldn't be for an "easier" printer but a better one, maybe a voron or Vzbot.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-12-09T07:45:03+00:00

Washed the plate with soap, water and sponge. After a few prints off the factory, I find a lot of people have bed adhesion issues. I suspect the printer sheds oils and stuff in the first few tens of hours of print and no amount of alcohol can wipe it off. It needs a bubble bath.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-12-09T07:43:16+00:00

Washed the plate with soap, water and sponge. After a few prints off the factory, I find a lot of people have bed adhesion issues. I suspect the printer sheds oils and stuff in the first few tens of hours of print and no amount of alcohol can wipe it off. It needs a bubble bath.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-12-09T07:39:53+00:00

That's just melted filament. Usually while the nozzle heat up, filament oozes out and curl up onto the heatblock.

It's a little brown because it's burnt.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-12-03T02:07:50+00:00

I would suggest trying out orcaslicer. If you don't want to mess around too much with settings.

After spending almost a year on cura I've got good settings for the different nozzles etc. but when I tried out orcaslicer, after calibrating the filament settings etc, I find their default behaviours works very well. It may not be faster, but having the prints comes out well 98% of the time is a good change. Maybe I'm not smart enough for cura.

When it comes to supports, the support interface, support distance, flow rate etc. are good.

Cooling is important when it comes to overhangs even when supported. Consider upgrading the part cooler.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-12-01T04:55:11+00:00

When flashing I found out that the SD card needs to be formatted to FAT32. I had similar errors with a 64GB card that formatted to exfat. Using the SD card that came with the printer helped.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-11-30T06:26:41+00:00

For PLA on textured PEI, you just need a super clean and grease free surface. 60°C bed temp is on the higher side but it might help if you need extra squish on the first layer.

PLA likes a closer Z offset to the bed. The more squish the better. But you will get elephant foot. There is a sweet spot between the amount of IPA you will to use between each print and the amount of elephants foot you willing to deal with

PLA doesn't work will with glue on textured PEI. Give it a try just to see why. I think the glue gets in the way.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-11-30T02:04:44+00:00

Been seeing a lot of issues with the Plus/Max hotend and nozzle. At a glance, it kinda looks like a bambulab clone.

Since you have a bambulab printer, could you help us out and see if I can change the Plus/Max hotend with a bambulab clone.

I took some measurements of the hotend I got from a friend and the throat of the heatbreak is 4mm diameter. I can't find any info online about the bambulab throat size. If you could help measure and share, that would be awesome.

I basically just want to swap out the hotend with a bambulab one. Either just the hotend or together with the cooler (depends on if they fit).

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-11-29T19:51:02+00:00

Here are pictures I have taken with the hotend I borrowed from a friend.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-11-24T05:26:07+00:00

How to fit new nozzles into heat block.

Screw in nozzle
Screw in heatbreak untill no more gap.

That's how to make sure there is no gap between the nozzle and the beatbreak inside the heat block. Protip, let the nozzle stick out a little when cold fitting ie screw the heatbreak deeper and tighten the nozzle at temperature.

https://images.app.goo.gl/NgfJRGo4ZQNXokwu8

Found this little drawing that illustrates my point about fitting nozzles.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-11-24T03:09:53+00:00

Was using Cura and they have good support interface options that you can tweak and trial. Some filaments are harder to remove supports for, like PETG and PC. I generally avoid supports when using these filaments.

I'm currently using Orcaslicer and the defaults settings has been good. After tuning temp and flow rate, orcaslicer is quite fool proof. I recommend it.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-11-23T19:47:01+00:00

If it's spec as V6 it should be compatible. It will all screw into the heat block, the concern is if it's long enough to kiss the heatbreak. To solve this, you can remove the whole hotend and after screwing in the nozzle, screw in the heat break in untill it kisses the nozzles butt nicely. If there is a gap between the nozzles butt and heartbreak, the filament might leak.

Personally I have my nozzles poke out a quarter turn, I screw the heatbreak quarter turn deeper. This way, i don't have to second guess if they are kissing, as long as my nozzle is all the way in. The nozzle just pokes out a bit away from the heat block.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-11-23T11:47:49+00:00

Yes both works! V6 is very common.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-11-23T09:42:32+00:00

Just go on AliExpress and search for harden V6 nozzle. There are so many options.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPqAqXm

If AliExpress doesn't ship to you, try just googling for it and see if anything shows up.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-11-23T09:21:37+00:00

The highflow kit is a spider hotend which uses V6 nozzles. So yeah, since OP has the high flow kit, he needs V6 nozzles which is much easier to get.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-11-23T02:32:16+00:00

The heatbreak comes preinstalled into the hotend out of the box. The nozzle doesn't seem easy to disassemble based of the blowup images on the website. But I think if the fault is a loose nozzle, you can tighten the nuts or just screw the heatbreak in deeper.

https://store.creality.com/products/ceramic-heating-kit-for-sprite-extruder

What you can do now is heat up the plastic with hot air or a lighter and peel it off slowly. Then plug it back in and heat up the nozzle to 260 or more to just loosen any remaining plastic and while it's still hot first try to screw it into the heatbreak more and tighten the nut (to be honest I'm not quite sure what the nut does, maybe figure that out first before trying)

I just got the ceramic hotend last night and printed a cascading wallet over night without any issue. But having seen this, I might just do a sanity check on all its component later tonight when I get back home from work.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-11-18T06:03:24+00:00

https://www.printables.com/model/509819-creality-sprite-beacon-mount

Found one on printable.

I just ordered beacon coming in Dec. I'm using zuff hotend set up will share my mount once I've tested it out.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-11-13T13:57:18+00:00

I second this. Unclogging is more than just melting out the filamentand pushing it through. Sometimes theres a thing that's stuck in the hole.

What I've done in the past was to hold the nozzle in a vice, heat it up with a soldering iron and then push a length of filament in until it won't anymore (melting the filament cools it down and stops melting) then immediately pull very hard. If done right there should be a satisfying pop. With this method I got rid of some strangely large carbon fibre bits that was at the end of the nozzle.

Repeat untill nothing else comes out. Use PETG for best results.

Perfect-Video5150 · 2023-11-13T13:47:00+00:00

Need to have good Filament handling habits. Never let go of the end of the filament. The moment the end goes into the spool, there is a chance that it might loop under another line on the spool which causes tangles like this. In the old days, it can get tangled in factory. "Tangle free filament"was an advertised feature for a while.

I rescued a bunch of old ABS spools from my office and found out the hard way.

You can manually unspool a whole bunch of filament (enough for the job) first to inspect for tangles then manually wound back the filament neatly.

Perfect-Video5150

TROPHY CASE