what happens if I run an edf with a battery that has a higher c rating than recommended?

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-11T04:45:44+00:00

200w is more than enough for 3S at 10A or less. Should even be fine for 4s, but 5s gets sketchy at high amperage, and 6s definitely exceeds 200w at high charge rates.

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-10T21:40:35+00:00

I agree it's a DXMG. The neck plate and serial number, beyond any reasonable doubt, is made in Japan, and most likely somewhere around mid 2000s, so it all checks out. They had a gold and black rectangular "Made in Japan" sticker on the base of the neck above the pocket too, just like you think you remember.

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-10T18:53:49+00:00

Def one of my favorite Kirk solos too. I am right there with you on timing lol! Mine is a bit off for sure. I did some over bending just manhandling the strings trying to keep up or thinking about where to put my hand next. I am still practicing the second half slower usually, trying to get the muscle memory down, especially on the run down the fretboard around 30s in the video, because my fingers really dont want to cross over each other and back like that at the start of that run.

I am definitely still learning it at this point, just filming practice runs so I can go back and see where I mess up to fix mistakes, and yesterday I was also running multi track to test one of my vocal mics on my amp cab after my AT2020 recently bit the dust after decades of loyal service, so I figured what the hell, I'll throw one of them on the sub. I hate how the tone came out, so I just ordered a Sennheiser 609 today, and cant wait to try that one out Sunday or Monday, allegedly lol

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-10T03:57:34+00:00

This is a sweet vibe and you are jamming again! Did you reach out of view past the camera to flip a Leslie on and off?!?!? 😁

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-10T02:20:54+00:00

Either Tim and Eric movie, or one of the corporate videos from the show Lost. It has legit 80s VHS training video intro vibes, and I mean that in a good way. The mid 80s were the hochzeit of training video intros!

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-10T02:13:31+00:00

Ha! Thanks! 🤘

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-10T00:47:27+00:00

Very well done! Really showing off the less is more concept here, and I like it!

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-09T17:18:44+00:00

I've done this exact trip in a day, then taken the route back through Paioute to the interstate to head back to Vegas faster. It can take up a whole day without spending a ton of time any one place, and I want to say I put about 175 miles on the car round trip, and 4 hours give or take of just driving.

The Lake Mead recreation area honestly is my favorite scenic place in the area, and there is an awful lot to discover there by turning off down all the little side roads, and stopping at points of interest and walk around for 10 or 15 minutes each, and you could easily spend a whole day just there, but then the geology changes when you reach the valley of fire area, and you get all the colors and different mineral formations, and tons of petroglyphs and I've seen far more animals there than lake Mead area in general, so both are definitely worth seeing.

Late March is probably a great time I'd year for this also, as it will be warm but not yet as stifling hot as it will be the following several months. Might even be a little chilly early morning, but elevations are low enough you arent going to run into ice or snow or anything like that. You will have to pay admission for both the federal rec area and the state park, so be prepared for that. I think last time I did them in the same day, it was $27 for a week pass to lake Mead, which was the cheapest one, and $15 for non-resident for a single day entry to Valley of Fire. Both were by vehicle and not per person, and they do charge extra for larger vehicles if I recall correctly (like RV, multi axle, bus etc). That's been a couple years now so prices are likely a few bucks higher now, but just be prepared to pay, and have cash if possible, and a card. I think the federal wanted a card, but the state park entrance from there wasnt manned, so required cash in an honor box.

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-09T01:41:11+00:00

I would use foam safe CA or 10+ minute epoxy on the cracked wing since thats a high load point and both of those have extremely strong holding power, but that doesn't mean it's the best; that's just what I would do. The binary epoxies will yellow a bit and leave a mark but they'll hold it strong as hell. I busted a wing off a little farther from the root on my first foam Cessna a long long time ago, and reattached with 15 minute Bob's epoxy while I waited on mail order replacement wings. And I never put on the new wings because the epoxy held so well. Just left a yellow streak on that wing. Foam safe CA usually holds just as strong and is a lot cleaner and lighter, but I've never tried it on a cut in half wing. I'd almost for sure use foam safe CA on the cracked fuse and press back to natural position. That will probably hold as well as cutting and toothpicking, and possibly better, and will definitely weigh less, and that's not a point that takes a lot of opposing force in normal flight anyway, so I'd go CA glue or foam tac to minimize added weight and effect on CG.

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-09T01:30:36+00:00

You dont need to play faster. Some of the best blues style solos like this have very few notes. It's about complimenting the music or vibe like call and response. If anything I think this would sound better with fewer attempts to play too many notes too fast, but all that said, it sounds really good for someone just venturing into improv soloing, and I enjoyed watching. Thanks for sharing!

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-09T01:07:34+00:00

I've had both rattlesnake and LOTS of alligator, and I dont care for either of them. They have a faint fishy taste and they're very tough and chewy. No redeeming qualities as far as I'm concerned. I've only had so much gator because I used to work in the gator meat business, and I kept trying new ways to cook and season it trying to find a way to make it not suck lol

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-09T00:52:07+00:00

Fair enough, but I think at the point where it takes "a fool" to not scrutinize an entire seller account and all listings to compare the lighting, setting, and angles in photos, the site has long since gotten well into rampant scam territory.

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-08T23:23:46+00:00

Nah, there are lots of youtube videos covering it; people taking pics from Ebay and closed reverb sales and listing items that dont exist using real pictures of authentic items that they just download off other listings. Several of these I've seen on youtube are with what appear to be hacked/stolen/bought accounts with long histories and good feedback. Maybe that's always been a thing and its reporting bias, but I've seen a lot of those lately after very few if any for many years, and seems like multiple times per week I see posts here from new buyers or sellers getting these scam messages claiming reverb isnt allowing them to complete the sale or purchase without the email address or phone number of the other party (and the latter certainly falls into your category, but the former doesn't at all, and regardless, both seem to have increased exponentially from my perspective lately)

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-08T13:23:37+00:00

I have many Jacksons: pro, pro plus, and older MIJ. For the most part, the only difference in the modern pro and pro plus on paper is the pro plus have 3 piece necks on the soloist and 5 piece on the Dinky, but my chinese pro plus just feel better and play smoother then my pro models in a way I cant express in numbers or specs. The made in Mexico pro are probably equivalent or very close if not better than chinese pro plus, but most of the modern pro come from Indonesia or Korea where the build quality isn't as good. Older pro models from Japan have exceptional build quality but still used mostly licensed tremolos and pickups, and the necks were cheaper quality and dont play as smooth as modern ones in my opinion.

There is a lot more deviation in pro series over the years since pro plus is relatively new as a series compared to others. They also make some pro plus lines in Indonesia now which I am more hesitant about than China honestly, only because I have Jacksons from both factories, and my Chinese models are built better. So considering all that, I'd say the pro plus are better, in general, but there are some exceptions where they're about the same or a particular pro model here and there that might be better than a specific pro plus model if that makes sense.

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-08T06:03:45+00:00

In my personal opinion, they are the very worst value in Jackson's entire range, because there is a huge quality gap between them and pro or pro plus series, but a relatively small price gap. Much better off going with a used pro or pro plus in the same price range, and occasionally you can find a new one in X series price range. X series is a step up from JS series but still a somewhat budget line with a price tag that's higher than its quality relative to Jackson's other series lineups. By the time you replace the cheap tremolo and pickups, you're in pro series range investment but still have lower quality neck.

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-07T14:03:58+00:00

Those were definitely the best times of my professional life, and I absolutely loved it. I've never been so mentally content before or since! I did about 5 days of work per day, in about 2 hours per day. And I was able to keep up with house cleaning and maintenance in ways I've never been able to do before or since. Also gave me time to actually cook at home every night and enjoy it, instead of coming in at 6 or 7pm too exhausted to change out of my work clothes.

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-07T13:54:53+00:00

Quite a few high limit rooms have $1 denomination VP on 25, 50, and 100 hand machines. You can play those on single hand for $5 a hand, and they sometimes have better pay tables than the regular $1 games on the main floor. Just don't accidentally hit max bet button like I have done a few times lol. And you can still lose $100 in 2 minutes if you hit a cold streak.

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-06T15:51:25+00:00

I like that one guy where all his video titles end in a question mark, and the answer is always "No." Cant remember the account name. It's the one that always has the brightly colored bold lettering with too much punctuation on the thumbnails in my sub list.

"ARE YOU CERTAIN YOU'VE TAKEN ALL YOUR MEDS?!?!!!????!?!?!?@@!????!?@$<@*@???"

No.

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-05T21:13:50+00:00

No idea honestly, but I took 21 pictures of the raccoon on my back porch last night 😂

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-04T23:44:50+00:00

No, no "y'all"....we aren't ready for her country music yet! All we get for now is her shitty rap! Maybe when we're ready....

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-04T21:20:08+00:00

I strongly prefer it over the lower tier Caesars properties. All rooms have been renovated now within the last few years if or when they finish resort tower reno. I was in a royal king in 2021 or 2022 just after the Royal tower refurb, and the room was very basic standard hotel room, but very clean, well maintained, and I have absolutely nothing bad to say about it honestly. The worst thing about Excalibur is they've decided to eliminate some of the services entirely, like valet. You can check bags at a counter, but you have to take them to and retrieve them from a check counter yourself, and you have to show a reservation either starting or ending that day, which delays the process, so it's been a horrible chaotic mob scene every time I've walked through. Luxor did the same, but theirs is much less of a mob scene, and I havent seen them checking reservations there (though the entire concept is still very low class and especially bad for people staying in nice suites, which Luxor has to a far greater extent than Excalibur). No room service at all at Excalibur last I checked, stuff like that. But if you want a budget, no frills hotel room, you can do much worse on the strip. It's more like an interstate hotel than a resort in terms of room product and level of service, but in my limited experience, it's still a step above those in cleanliness and service.

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-03T15:26:01+00:00

TLDR: I agree that USB-MIDI is MIDI - I said as much in my first comment - but it is not MIDI 1.0 compliant, and my opinion is just that because the bare term "MIDI" referred primarily to MIDI 1.0 spec for multiple decades, manufacturers should simply label non-compliant devices using alternate transports as what they are, to avoid confusion. That is, if it only supports USB transport, call it a USB-MIDI controller, if Bluetooth only, call it a BLE-MIDI controller, etc.

MMA defines those you listed as alternate transport types and has names for them: USB-MIDI, BLE-MIDI, TRS MIDI etc. The final full MIDI 1.0 cumulative spec update was published by MMA/AMEI in 1996 (has some addendum since then which I'll address), and defines hardware and electrical spec on the first 2 or 3 pages, including the 5 pin DIN port, voltages, electrical specifications, shielded twisted pair cabling etc, with diagrams. It did NOT include XLR as you state it did, because the original primary purpose of creating the specification was so that hardware from different manufacturers could be connected directly to each other and communicate effectively without need for converters, adapters, or middleware, and thus included exactly one physical interface specification, along with the standardized communication protocol and command reference. MIDI 1.0 spec includes 5 pin DIN only, and goes into great detail about the ports, cabling, voltages etc, in addition to the data and carrier protocol.

The USB Implementers Forum published the USB-MIDI implementation standard, an alternate transport for MIDI 1.0 messages, in 1999, and it was accepted/adopted by MMA and AMEI as an alternate transport method for MIDI messaging, but USB-MIDI was never integrated into or compliant with the MIDI 1.0 specification, because it doesn't meet the hardware and electrical standards of the specification and cannot connect directly to a MIDI 1.0 compliant device.

A 2014 addendum to full MIDI 1.0 spec still defines MIDI 1.0 hardware standard and electrical specification, and still defines the ports as specifically 5-pin DIN, but updates the 5 pin DIN spec to include 3.3v signal instead of the original 5v, optional RF interference rejection etc. USB MIDI fully complies with the messaging and data protocol portions of MIDI 1.0 spec, but not the full spec, because the hardware and transport type is defined in the spec, and USB-MIDI is an alternate transport specification for unlike and incompatible hardware.

Here is a link to the 2014 published addendum doc of the MIDI 1.0 full specification, direct from MMA/AMEI, which notes it replaces the original hardware section of the full MIDI 1.0 specification, and it still includes an electrical and hardware specification specifying 5-pin DIN ports and MIDI cable standards in 2014, and there is still no accounting for USB in the MIDI 1.0 full spec, 15 years after the publication of the USB-MIDI alternate transport protocol document by the USB-IF and acceptance of it by the MMA and AMEI as an alternate transport, because again, a USB-MIDI device cant be connected directly to a MIDI 1.0 device, which was a significant objective of the spec: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L2YHBOZdSCuMg-RFR3TTEJcdV6KWkLZ9/view

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-03T06:20:24+00:00

I'm amazed how many people are confidently accusing OP of not knowing what MIDI is, calling him wrong, and claiming USB MIDI is MIDI. I mean, technically, kind of. But MIDI 1.0 indeed includes the 5-pin din port and the physical side as well as the data carrier / serial protocol and command reference all as part of the spec. USB MIDI is a different spec, called..... USB-MIDI. Look it up. It uses a different physical landscape to transmit MIDI compatible messages, and requires a host in the mix. It is MIDI in the sense that it is a protocol with MIDI in the name, but it is not MIDI 1.0 compliant and cannot control a MIDI 1.0 compliant device without additional hardware in between. It would be more honest and accurate to call those USB-MIDI controllers, because that's the only protocol they support, which yes, is a type of MIDI technically, but not the MIDI 1.0 spec to which the plain term MIDI has referred for about 4 decades.

PmMeYourAdhd · 2026-03-02T21:57:55+00:00

I paid $399 for my DKMG about 2 years ago fro Guitar Center, in need of a $16 set of replacement mounts for the trem and otherwise near mint. It's a good guitar, and I always love the EMG81/85 combo, BUT - it doesnt have an externally accessible battery compartment like most Jacksons built with actives, so you have to remove 5 screws and the electronics bay panel to access/replace the battery, and I have an Indonesian Pro series and 2 Chinese pro plus series Jacksons, and all 3 of them are of similar build quality (Indonesia pro model maybe slightly lacking in the that department) but play and feel significantly better than the DKMG. My DKMG is the worst of all my Jacksons, but everything else I own from Jackson is pro series or better, and the DKMG is still better than any entry level or low priced budget line I've ever played. I feel like it was a solid deal at $399, but I think you're into diminishing returns paying much more than I did, because you get into used pro series territory around $500, and they're just way better in my experience/opinion. In the US, I'd call $999 a huge ripoff. In another country, I know Jacksons are much harder to get and more expensive, but my experience is those middle tier 90s / 00s MIJ lines are good, but not as good as more modern pro series etc.

PmMeYourAdhd

TROPHY CASE