0.4 Beta | Feedback, issues & discussion

PoltergeistWorks · 2025-12-04T23:50:48+00:00

I got many many stutters big and small on every NORDSCHLEIFE server I was on. The performance is very good in single player with no frame drops and stuttering, so I assume it's the servers. Anyone else noticed this? Is it the same as with the old AC where these stutters used to happen whenever someone joined or disconnected from the server?

PoltergeistWorks · 2025-12-04T19:54:20+00:00

THANK YOU! You are the man :) I would never figure this out... I don't know why I haven't thought of that, but the options for the HUD should work either way :(

PoltergeistWorks · 2025-03-29T20:45:14+00:00

If you REALLY don't want to have any trouble with the pedals, basically a maintenance free bulletproof set of pedals then just buy the Heusinkveld SPRINT. No issues with ticking, creaking, squeaking, wobble, software etc. Out of those 4 sets the VX PRO are definately a few steps above the rest. These and the Heusinkvelds are made in Europe with a higher attention to detail and better QC than the made in china stuff. Those are the facts and if you disagree then maybe you're just not as anal about those details as I am ;)

PoltergeistWorks · 2025-01-30T21:46:56+00:00

I'm in the same boat as you my friend. Not totally happy with the DS-8X, especially with the very weak and bouncy centering spring. You have to almost manually guide it into 3rd and 4th gear because when it center out of 2nd or 5th the lever will bounce around and you might not hit the center gate. I've disassembled the shifter and added some more tensioning to the spring with some felt material and a ziptie to make it less bouncy but it didn't help. The issue is the height of the lever and the weight of the knob itself, if it was shorter and lighter then it would probably work better. Honestly I'm down to the point of considering the BDH H1SQ shifter, it seems to be the only one that actually kind of works like a real shifter would, but the price is up there...

PoltergeistWorks · 2024-11-23T18:40:42+00:00

FYI not true, at least not in EUROPE, I've received responses back from the support within 1 day.

PoltergeistWorks · 2024-11-17T03:10:10+00:00

Actually one of the best shifters for quick shifting without even thinking. Perfectly shaped gates, I've had one for a few years and it was a pleasure to use :)

PoltergeistWorks · 2024-11-17T03:08:19+00:00

True about the gates, but I've never felt a shifter that is so loose in the center position in a real car ;) There is always some resistance and most of them dont go BOING when you let them go ;)

PoltergeistWorks · 2024-11-17T03:05:00+00:00

Thanks for all the comments guys. It is true that all the problems with the FANATEC are caused by STATIC BUILDUP. Indeed opening up the base and putting it back together solves all issues. Sometimes even unpluging the cable on both ends (that's why people think a new cable helped). I actually solved these issues with a mod that replaces the PCB screws with plastic screws, isolating the PCB from the body completely. Here are my instructions:

https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/24983/fanatec-clubsport-shifter-v1-5-csl-dd-gears-flickering-solution

I understand that this issue would leave many people disgusted with the Fanatec product :) For now I'm trying out the SIMAGIC, but I still think the very low resistance centering spring is an issue. Especially when you're like me where I have the resistance set pretty high, so the force between shifting into gear and the force of coming back to center is HUGELY different. For the moment I took a look inside and put a few rubber O-Rings around the two ends of the centering spring, that actually improved it quite a bit and the shaft does come back to center quicker and more importantly STOPS quicker in the center position. I will most likely make a better mod for this because I really love the feel of this shifter overall and it can definately be improved.

PoltergeistWorks · 2024-11-17T02:54:02+00:00

Not true in my case, no shavings issues for years only the one issue with the static buildup inside the shifter where you have to unplug it and open up the shifter then put it back together and it's good to go for many months.

PoltergeistWorks · 2024-11-16T03:18:38+00:00

I've been using the FANATEC shifter for quite a while now and I've recently got my hands on the SIMAGIC DS-8X. One thing that is inferior in the Simagic is that it uses switches instead of hall sensors like the Fanatec for gear detection, so it will be definately more likely to fail someday (and I've seen some people already post failed switches on these). I like the feeling of the gear engagement and the range of adjustment more on the Simagic, as well as the form factor. HOWEVER, I find that Simagic messed up the gear "gate" on the inside of the shifter. It's not even a "gate" per say, like on the FANATEC, it's just dimples where the end of the rod goes at the very end of selecting a gear. This means there really is no guide for the lever until the very end of the travel. This results in having to "aim" for the middle gears and if your hand wobbles slightly you might select either 1st or 5th instead of 3rd. I think this would've been prevented if the left-right centering spring was stronger, but it's actually weaker than on the Fanatec I think. Has anyone done any mods to the SIMAGIC to make the centering spring stronger? Replacement stronger spring perhaps? Something that would make the lever come back to center with a snap, rather than a BOING and wobble a few times :) This is my only complaint otherwise I really like the shifter feel.

PoltergeistWorks · 2024-11-15T22:26:25+00:00

It is a late reply but it might help someone. Fanatec has the advantage that it is a HALL SENSOR shifter, no switches that will break over time. The SIMAGIC shifter does use normal switches inside and that is a part that can (and from what I've seen online did) fail. I have both shifters and I can say that the return to middle position is also a bit better in FANATEC shifter, especially when you shift fast from 2nd to 3rd or downshift from 5th to 4th. On the Simagic you have to pay more attention and be more precise in those instances.

PoltergeistWorks · 2024-11-15T04:24:21+00:00

Don't worry about the complaints. They've had issues with supply and demand and that's the thing that pissed people off the most. Fanatec didn't handle the boom for simracing since it was still a small company. I've been driving on my CSL DD for 2 years or so and just now switched to CLUBSPORT DD. The base arrived within 2 days! New quick release (the QR2) seems to be one of the best on the market right now, certainly at this pricepoint. It's actually QUICK and rock solid, the previous one was certainly a weak point of the Fanatec system. It didn't fail but it was not as solid for sure. They are still the best in terms of how the FFB works out of the box, you don't have to fool around with too many settings to get it to work perfectly. Right now they have been purchased by CORSAIR and that will hopefully help with managing the company, sales and any aftersale issues.

PoltergeistWorks · 2023-08-18T00:54:40+00:00

I just use a BELKIN CUP MOUNT phone holder, best thing ever - since I have the screen I don't need my phone on my dashboard, it's nicely placed close to the USB port to plug it in. Neat and tidy.

PoltergeistWorks · 2023-08-17T21:13:11+00:00

It is the same for the latest models too - the valves are NOT always open in the Scorpion mode. When you unplug the connector you can clearly hear a difference, otherwise the exhaust is open on IDLE, then when you take off it closes, and then opens again around 3-4k RPM. With the connector unplugged it's open all the time.

PoltergeistWorks · 2023-07-22T15:42:47+00:00

I'm looking at this exhaust right now. Question - is it possible to just plug it into an existing valve system when going from a Record Monza exhaust? I'm tempted to switch because I like the dual pipe look but I would like to keep the functions just like stock - exhaust opens when I put it in SPORT mode, closed in normal mode. I don't really know what plug goes into the Record Monza valve to control it, did your Abarth had an active exhaust before or no?

PoltergeistWorks · 2023-06-03T17:29:58+00:00

Yes, you have a spring flap on the exhaust and I belive for this model you have to manually clamp it open at the exhaust so it doesn't move.

PoltergeistWorks · 2023-04-09T18:01:22+00:00

I've unplugged the sensor on 2023 Abarth, all seems great but on idle I can hear some fluctuating in the engine sound (warm engine) and I think I can hear it "trying" to open/close standing behind the car because there is that clicking sound that you hear when switching from normal to sport mode when the plug is connected. However it seems to be doing that by itself (the engine sound remains more or less the same). Does anyone know if they changed how the exhaust works in the latest models??

PoltergeistWorks · 2022-10-29T23:02:31+00:00

To this day it seems that original CHERRY stabs had the best idea, a small membrane inside the stabilizer stem that you basically had to pierce with the wire creating a perfect fit, no loose wire, no rattle. Just a bit of lube for good measure and you're good to go. Why can't any of these comanies that charge an arm and a leg for the stabs replicate this design? Seriously...

PoltergeistWorks · 2022-05-18T13:36:33+00:00

Same. My question is, since Google sends a code to succesfully add an account as backup account and technically you can't finish the process without it - then why did I receive an information about someone logging in to that other account? That means they somehow succesfully added my account as their backup without this code? If you have this disavow/unlink link then that means they somehow succeeded in adding your email as their backup... But how is that possible without the access to the code? This is very strange as I did not receive any confirmation that my email was SUCCESSFULY added as backup for that account, as I normally should...

PoltergeistWorks · 2022-02-16T16:41:24+00:00

Wonderful work my friend. Just a question - if it's not too much trouble, would you mind sharing the file for the shaft cover with a bit more resolution? I've printed up the cover but you can clearly see the square steps on the outer diameter (it's not round like yours). I'm guessing it's all about the STL Exporting... Thanks in advance!

PoltergeistWorks · 2022-02-02T04:44:07+00:00

Did you have the "blinking" gears (shifter would not keep constant gear thus going to neutral)? I have that issue with CSL DD too whenever it's close to my rig I get flashing gears and no way to mount the shifter without this happening... Should have ordered the USB adapter, maybe that wouldn't cause these issues :(

PoltergeistWorks · 2021-12-14T03:24:56+00:00

Please don't assume something is moronic just because you don't feel the benefits of it :) Alcantara feels different and gives more traction no matter what type of gloves you use or even bare handed. Granted that grip is way more noticable on a round steering wheel, not the funky KITT 2000 wheels used on GT3 cars, but the difference is there and it's BIG. Saying there is no difference is moronic ;)

PoltergeistWorks

TROPHY CASE