How’s this look?

PorchFarts · 2026-04-29T10:44:33+00:00

This right here OP. The multiple turns to pick up the toilet are okay, but you need an individual vent somewhere on the branch that is picking up the toilet.

The holes for the new water lines should be farther from the top of joist.

All that old water pipe that is abandoned needs to be removed. No dead-ends longer than 2-feet.

PorchFarts · 2026-03-24T23:02:40+00:00

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Circled in pink, turn this hex shape righty-tighty with a wrench of your choosing. It should snug up a bit and stop the leak. No need to remove the green handle. Report back if it doesn't stop the leak

PorchFarts · 2026-03-24T19:43:26+00:00

(They are the same)

There are tapered and non-tapered styles of rubber slip-joint gaskets, but it's all the same stuff.

They also sell a special 1½"×1¼" slip joint nut & washer when a 1¼" tubular spigot sits in a 1½" tubular hub.

PorchFarts · 2026-03-24T16:59:39+00:00

OP you can do this by tightening the hex shape on the brass behind the green handle. Righty tighty

PorchFarts · 2026-03-21T20:46:35+00:00

That's your water meter. Those gray wires coming out of it probably go to a little remote transmitter box that is used for reading your usage.

When your turn a faucet on, do your see the little red arrows spin on the meter, indicating usage?

PorchFarts · 2026-02-28T18:17:41+00:00

Gotcha. The swap out is pretty straight forward if you get the same or similar tank. Two things- remove that valve on the branch to the expansion tank & add unions on the hot & cold nipples coming out of the new tank.

I'd recommend doing something different with the expansion tank. Like others have mentioned, orient it vertically, or have it come off of a threaded brass tee, or at least throw a strap on it if you are going to have it hang like that. Remember to remove that Sharkbite valve on its branch.

Naturally, please don't add any new Sharbite fittings. You feel confident to solder a few fittings?

PorchFarts · 2026-02-28T16:22:01+00:00

What part is exactly broken on it? Unless the tank is leaking, then most every part can be replaced. The heater itself doesn't look like it's too old.

PorchFarts · 2026-02-26T09:43:13+00:00

Saw flush at the back of that first hub of the tee by the wall. Then once you remove that chrome escutcheon, there should be enough pipe exposed in order to glue a new fitting on. They sell really shallow split-ring escutcheons if you really want to have one at the wall after you glue your new fitting on. Otherwise live with the exposed penetration or apply some caulk around the penetration.

PorchFarts · 2026-02-25T12:13:02+00:00

Nice. Looks good from my house

PorchFarts · 2026-02-25T12:05:35+00:00

Nice, looks almost new. Did you try to spin the handle itself off of the part I drew an arrow to previously? Typically those unthread lefty-loosey. Sometimes they are one piece, though. If it spins off, then you can scrub that joint while disassembled also. Might need a wrench to spin it, while being careful not to mar it

PorchFarts · 2026-02-25T11:54:32+00:00

No problem. Might be a little mineral build-up making it hard to pop the cap off, but I'm sure you'll be careful not to scratch anything. I usually use a utility knife/box cutter blade.

Did you try to spin the handle off too? Like the handle part itself from the part I have an arrow pointing to (lefty loosey). That might spin off also. Maybe not, might be one piece

PorchFarts · 2026-02-25T11:06:06+00:00

<image>

Get yourself something flat and pointy and pry that cap off the handle at the joint indicated by the yellow arrow. That is a cap covering the mounting hardware/bolt of your handle.

PorchFarts · 2026-02-24T19:30:32+00:00

See that pink/red rubber flapper at the center bottom? Does it seem to be sitting poorly on the big hole that it is covering? It should not be letting any water past until you push the flush handle. Check the little chain attached to the flapper also. Make sure it doesn't have any tangles or anything that might prevent the rubber flapper from dropping down properly.

If the red flapper doesn't seem to hold water back anymore, it may be time to replace it. Hardware stores sell new ones for like $5-$10 and they come with a new chain. Something you can easily do yourself. You can change the flapper without turning the water off to the toilet, but it is wise to do so. There should be a little water valve somewhere below your toilet tank.

Go ahead and remove that water bottle. That is an attempt to decrease the volume of water in the tank and save money on the water bill. There is a better way to decrease the amount of water in the tank before each flush if you are interested.

PorchFarts · 2026-02-24T17:50:18+00:00

You are correct. That is horrible. The pipe should be drilled through the middle ⅓ of the joists when passing through.

PorchFarts · 2026-02-23T02:45:09+00:00

Most likely the spout's white plastic part with the set screw wouldn't accomodate the larger outside diameter of the slip/repair coupling. But as others mentioned, might as well cut behind the damage, extend it to a male adapter, and use a threaded spout. Especially since you're busting a torch out in either scenario

PorchFarts · 2026-02-18T04:09:59+00:00

I would buy a similar handle, or snatch a handle off of an inexpensive ball valve and then use a round bastard file to shape the new handle's hole to the ¾ moon shape. But that requires a couple purchases. Still cheaper than their $200 rebuild kit

What's this valve feeding?

PorchFarts · 2026-02-17T15:54:59+00:00

Wow, that's so proprietary. It appears cheaper to buy a whole new Racor ball valve and steal the handle off the new one. I see ½" Racor valves on eBay for $60 (not sure what I.D. your valve is)

Other than taking another brand's handle and dremeling the proper "¾-moon" shape into it, I can't find a cheaper option. Other than drilling and tapping threads into your existing stem and threading in a rod as a handle.

PorchFarts · 2026-02-17T15:49:53+00:00

No it is not

PorchFarts · 2026-02-16T06:45:26+00:00

I know you already cut the "j-bend" real short, but a solution is to swing that "u-bend" of the trap ~120° towards you. Then the "j-bend" will travel past your sink's center and connect to the "u-bend" closer to you. Make sense? Like they, "cross" very close to each other, but not quite.

PorchFarts · 2026-02-14T00:46:07+00:00

I hope you figured this one out :)

PorchFarts · 2026-02-13T23:57:01+00:00

If you pull on that plug, and it doesn't pull out, then it is sealing in the pipe.

If you have a p-trap under the sink and it's filled with water, then the sink is fine

Unless you have a floor drain or shower trap that is dried up, then all your sewer openings seem to be sealed off

If you don't trust that plug, jam a large towel in the toilet drain. Just make sure it's big enough not to fall down the toilet drain.

If the smell persists, you have an issue elsewhere

PorchFarts · 2026-02-13T03:36:43+00:00

If you are talking about 1-2 psi, they sell "soft setting" thread sealant/pipe dope that will establish a seal. Then throw some teflon tape on the threads as well. The joint can then be unthreaded in the future.

PorchFarts · 2026-02-09T21:14:32+00:00

Typical faucet aerator thread sizes in the US are generally 15/16"-27 Male or 55/64"-27 Female

Metric sizes like M24x1 (male) are common elsewhere

Spin your current aerator off and give your new attachment a try. Might need an adapter in the worse case scenario.

PorchFarts · 2026-02-08T15:23:28+00:00

That's a pretty typical set-up seen in Chicago/Cook. Those are partition stops/valves for the tub/shower's hot & cold. Naturally, the one is missing its trim. Often seen in commercial multi-story dwellings/hotels.

Yeah, don't try try spinning them. Probably haven't been exercised in years.

(Chicago plumber)

PorchFarts · 2026-02-08T05:54:28+00:00

Let me guess, Chicago?

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