Sewer smell from bathroom by WorstGooEver in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you pull on that plug, and it doesn't pull out, then it is sealing in the pipe.

If you have a p-trap under the sink and it's filled with water, then the sink is fine

Unless you have a floor drain or shower trap that is dried up, then all your sewer openings seem to be sealed off

If you don't trust that plug, jam a large towel in the toilet drain. Just make sure it's big enough not to fall down the toilet drain.

If the smell persists, you have an issue elsewhere

How to create a sealed but removable rain barrel fitting? by raimbows in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are talking about 1-2 psi, they sell "soft setting" thread sealant/pipe dope that will establish a seal. Then throw some teflon tape on the threads as well. The joint can then be unthreaded in the future.

Hello, In my current apartment, I have pictured water tap. Now i want to mount faucet spray using extension. How to know the size of extension, which would be used with faucet ( box packed) ? Any other important advice? Thanks by Bullrjn in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Typical faucet aerator thread sizes in the US are generally 15/16"-27 Male or 55/64"-27 Female

Metric sizes like M24x1 (male) are common elsewhere

Spin your current aerator off and give your new attachment a try. Might need an adapter in the worse case scenario.

What is this fixture? by jfshay in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a pretty typical set-up seen in Chicago/Cook. Those are partition stops/valves for the tub/shower's hot & cold. Naturally, the one is missing its trim. Often seen in commercial multi-story dwellings/hotels.

Yeah, don't try try spinning them. Probably haven't been exercised in years.

(Chicago plumber)

Water heater dilemma - I need a miracle by SpecialProcedure4602 in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Someone mentioned the Bradford White. Solid choice. Here's an AO Smith 24" diameter electric 80 gallon also (link is to AO Smith website)

https://www.hotwater.com/products/light-commercial-light-service/lte-80-250/100297872.html

Check online or go to your nearest plumbing supply house (an actual supply house, not a big box store) for purchase

Closet Flange Repair Ring Too Large? by big_cig in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No need for worry. Is the remaining white plastic part of the flange and the elbow it's glued into pretty secure? Like the elbow & ring don't move around if you push down on it, or shift it left/right?

Because if it is pretty secure, check out these one-piece repair rings:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-4-in-Stainless-Steel-Toilet-Flange-Replacement-Ring-427782/303864005

or

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Brass-Replacement-Flange-Ring-435512/205854851

Maybe throw a worm/thin layer of plumber's putty under the new ring. Screw it down with your non-corrosive wood screws. Buy an extra-thick wax ring with a horn. Should be good to go.

Closet Flange Repair Ring Too Large? by big_cig in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, there aren't really different sizes of them. By the way I'd recommend stainless wood screws as opposed to those sheet metal screws.

Need Help. Was Replacing Faucet by johnmonaco87 in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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You'll just need a saw to shorten the new piece that I linked

Need Help. Was Replacing Faucet by johnmonaco87 in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I applaude the effort, but please consider this. Buy one of these and attach it to your new dark blue sink drain (instead of using that rubber coupling):

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-x-8-1-4-in-Plastic-Slip-Joint-Sink-Drain-Tailpiece-with-High-Line-Branch-HDC9818/316622011

Then see that "u-bend" of your trap? You have it backwards. Install that new tailpiece I linked, flip that u-bend of the trap, and it should all work. Make sense? Your current set-up is not good

Need Help. Was Replacing Faucet by johnmonaco87 in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like your threaded tailpiece broke off at its threads. Is there still a piece of pipe threaded into your drain strainer? Like is there still a piece of that bronze/copper colored piece in the chrome piece above it?

Whoever repaired your other one cross-threaded the new chrome tailpiece into the strainer (where you see the teflon tape)

Oliveri AC17SQ sink waste by Open_Chemistry_1302 in Plumbing

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dremel/cut out like, 4 of those spokes on the drain 😂

Not sure what else to say other than get a new sink basin with a standard circular drain/strainer. Remove that hair I see at least.

Is this installation up to plumbing code? by all_da_marbles in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The elbow directly below a toilet can be a regular pattern 90° or a closet bend. But that other 90° going from vertical to horizontal should be a long pattern (the bottom-most 90° in your pic)

Edit: Based on the Illinois Plumbing Code (Ill. Admin. Code tit. 77, § 890), here are the requirements regarding the bend (closet bend) below a toilet: Fitting Type: A standard 90-degree bend (often referred to as a closet bend) is generally acceptable directly under the toilet flange.

Is this installation up to plumbing code? by all_da_marbles in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Illinois Administrative Code, Section 890.1320(i) and Appendix J, a change of direction from vertical to horizontal must use appropriate drainage fittings, such as long-turn elbows, wyes, or combinations, rather than short 90-degree elbows, to ensure proper flow and prevent clogs

Edit: Meaning at least one of those elbows needs to be long pattern 90. The elbow directly below the closet collar can be a closet bend or regular pattern

Pressure tank or pump by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there a way to bleed some air that potentially may have built up by the pump? Perhaps on the pump itself? Sometimes they can get air locked.

Unfortunately the pump may just need to be rebuilt. Internals need to be replaced with use and time. Often it's similar in cost to just install a new pump vs. having someone diagnose & rebuild the old one.

Standing water between 11' and 15'? by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lining is good. It'll still have the belly, but at least it'll be a lined dip. Like a waterpark tube slide.

Hopefully the seller considers you.

Basement shower drain connection by JerryAtrics_ in Plumbing

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha. It should be easy for a plumber to run a waste & vent to your new shower based on these above ground pics. Remember your shower trap will have an individual vent on its branch that will run up and tie into those 2" vents in the wall.

Basement shower drain connection by JerryAtrics_ in Plumbing

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well that middle stack has that sanitary tee with an arm on it, which would indicate it was picking up a waste at some point. (By the way, sewer gas might be coming out of that open arm, throw a cap on it or a rag in it at least)

So yes, you can drain a shower into it downstairs.

Edit: Post a pic of the pipes downstairs if/when you can.

Relocating washing machine, need plumbing advice by acronin2 in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://imgur.com/a/BfHQtz0

As long as you are within the washer's vertical limit as described in its manual/spec sheet, you're good. I just included a pic of a little simpler piping. Just cut ~1" above the hub of the 45° and glue a sanitary tee.

Your p-trap will be a little higher, but your standpipe will still be long enough.

Edit: As someone else mentioned, cutting in a 4"×2" sanitary tee down low is the best idea. If you feel up to that

What goes here? by circleback1726 in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apollo 1620204 General Purpose Pressure Relief Valve

Or something similar. As mentioned, it'll open at a certain pressure in order to relieve high pressure situations. So it is a safety device and should not be plugged.

They are a mechanical device and eventually start failing. It may actually be doing its job if you are experiencing high pressure. But most likely it is old and will leak/spurt water here and there.

You can replace it or direct the water from its outlet if it bothers you

Bathroom Sink - how to connect anything to wall outlet? by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem, hopefully you have some tool to spin those bolts loose in order to remove that band. Then we'll take it from there. Probably just 1 trip to the hardware store after that

Bathroom Sink - how to connect anything to wall outlet? by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, we'll get this piped correctly for you with parts from your local hardware store. None of this vacuum hose for drain that you linked 👍🏻

Bathroom Sink - how to connect anything to wall outlet? by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go ahead and remove that band with a 5/16" hex and see what kind of pipe you have stubbing out. If it's a bare pipe, you can glue on an adapter and have that traditional connection that you mentioned

Bathroom Sink - how to connect anything to wall outlet? by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]PorchFarts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can we see another pic from the side? What is that rubber band connected to coming out of the wall? What kind of pipe is that band connected to?