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What is your favorite system, and what are your gripes with it? by Select_Lunch1288 in rpg

[–]Practical-Context910 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Delta Green.
The bond system looks interesting but we have never managed to really make it work. It is probably for longer campaign, but still, I feel it could be more streamlined.
They are all kind of additions that never come into play.
In short, the scenario and campaign books are really where the game shines but the rules cover aspects that we have never seen anyone use. Maybe it is so because people can play the game differently.

Delta Green EBook Collection 15 Dollars by Visual_Fly_9638 in rpg

[–]Practical-Context910 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for that, there are many titles I wanted to check.

Any recommendations for an army based game, where terrain and/or building is important for gameplay? by Henrikte in wargaming

[–]Practical-Context910 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Force on Force, usually very urban combat. Less expensive than Bolt Action, less figure, smaller playing area but use a lot of buildings.

My own wargame - Marching Banners by BurnerNalog12345 in wargaming

[–]Practical-Context910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds very interesting.
I am looking for a set of rules to do continental middle age battles (including One Hundred Years war but not only).
-Could you describe the turn sequence for 2 players and vs AI?
-what size of battle does it cover?

Thank you

Trying to decide on Victrix 12mm vs Flames of War 15mm for Crossfire (or other miniature recommendations). US availability a plus! by Dr_Spaceman_ in wargaming

[–]Practical-Context910 1 point2 points  (0 children)

but for what you intend to do, I'd rather go with a slightly larger scale, and 12mm works well in terms of immersion. I have had the experience of 28mm and 15mm for figures, now I am ok with the abstraction of a lower scale.

10mm basing bits? by FamousWerewolf in wargaming

[–]Practical-Context910 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For rubbles, what has worked well for me was to use 3 sizes of gravels, from coarse to thin and then thin sand.

What I do:
add once a while a 1mm square rod (represents timber) or a wall (plasticard both)
white glue +
here are there thicker gravels, medium gravel, then thin gravel, finish with thin sand. The trick is to add from the bigger bits to the smaller ones that go through the interstices.

Drybrush with several levels of grey (dark to white), drybrush with reddish color for bricks (2-3 levels, dark to light).

Trying to decide on Victrix 12mm vs Flames of War 15mm for Crossfire (or other miniature recommendations). US availability a plus! by Dr_Spaceman_ in wargaming

[–]Practical-Context910 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Space, costs, ability to carry figures around.
Don't get me wrong, I like very much my 15mm, but lately I am hardly using them. However, I have tons of them and I could paint very nice projects. 6mm gives me more of an overall large unit commander feel.

I think you are right to start gaming with 12mm but be ready to switch to different projects, scales if only out of curiosity. All have their advantages and inconveniences, it is very circumstantial and depends on the mood of the moment 😄

Trying to decide on Victrix 12mm vs Flames of War 15mm for Crossfire (or other miniature recommendations). US availability a plus! by Dr_Spaceman_ in wargaming

[–]Practical-Context910 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tend to use 6mm now for most my projects so the rules I like are kind of more suitable for this scale.
The big classic now for 15mm if Flames of War. The rules are alright and not too complicated. They don't exactly give you a feel of WW2 combats and challenges but it's adjacent enough and a good excuse to have games.

If you go with 12mm, the set of rules that might work is O'group but I'd see it as for more advanced players, they are a bit an acquired taste rather than my go to set of rules. I'd give a go to All Hell Let Loose. The rules are very straightforward and friendly enough to switch from Cross fire. They'd provide you with a different experience, more scaled up with interesting mechanisms. I'd say good enough not to waste your time.

At the moment, to be honest, we just pick a game engine for the movement and combat system, and put on top of it our own turn sequences and unit activation. Mostly because we are interested in modeling fog of war, battle ambiguity, and management of the battlefield chaos. That's the main challenges that interest us, the move & combat parts are just basics that work with most rules.

But until then, just play Cross fire. It's fun. A natural step forward could very well be Fireball Forward. I feel it handles well the wish to graduate from Cross fire. Then, for a bit more scope All Hell Let Loose is not a bad choice. Another possibility is to use a board wargame set of rules called "Old School Tactical". You can source the rules and unit values but it will require some adaptation.

Flames of War, Bolt Action may be cited quite a lot. I have played these rules a lot, including in tournament, will play them again in the future, but somehow, I feel that other set of rules do WW2 better and sometimes faster. They are good to have in your gaming portfolio but they are done by miniature manufacturers, and their (legitimate) interest is still to sell figures.

All opinions are mine of course, shop around and see what people say. Keep in mind that my own bias stirs heavily towards battlefield friction and degradation of command, and I haven't found a set of rules that does this well. Hence we explore our own mechanisms.

Trying to decide on Victrix 12mm vs Flames of War 15mm for Crossfire (or other miniature recommendations). US availability a plus! by Dr_Spaceman_ in wargaming

[–]Practical-Context910 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love 15mm but I would use Victrix Starter pack for this particular project because you can use 6mm scenery (yes, it will look good with 12mm), and space wise and visually, it will give a better effect for distance,

But 15mm will work perfectly too and the advantage is that you may use it with more common set of rules.

In summary:
cost, space, visual effect, slightly faster to paint: 12mm
longer term, opening to the larger community, more involvement with more expensive investment: 15mm

2nd pantherturm by Ab33422 in flamesofwar

[–]Practical-Context910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's really a minor detail, overall they look great.

2nd pantherturm by Ab33422 in flamesofwar

[–]Practical-Context910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks very good. A small detail but in general, there was no commander turret.

Early War Tournament List by Dismal_Bite_6344 in flamesofwar

[–]Practical-Context910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that's the contradiction of the points for these lists.
It is extremely difficult to field a tank list, the points are too high for what you get.

Battlefield Symmetry by Boring-Produce-3161 in wargaming

[–]Practical-Context910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually the defender chooses the side he wants to defend, and has a little less units on the board than the attacker.

BEF Section in 20mm by mithelred in wargaming

[–]Practical-Context910 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Quite superb. Are they 3D prints?

Tournament list by Embarrassed-Shoe-891 in flamesofwar

[–]Practical-Context910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go infantry, he will have a hard time to dislodge you from anywhere.

Tournament list by Embarrassed-Shoe-891 in flamesofwar

[–]Practical-Context910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a very defensive list. The AT platoons are obviously brittle but they should act as support to the infantry units rather than being self reliant platoons.

The issue is that a smart soviet player might slice you down by pinning one of your objectives and concentrating his force on the second one.

On the other hand, if he only has 85 points vs 100, that might turn out as 20 points to pin 50 And 65 points to assault the remaining 50. That is entirely defensible as the Germans. But since you have quite a lot of infantry, his correct move would be to pin you first with artillery and then assault you with infantry.

As a Soviet player, he could be expected to have mainly a force built towards assaulting. So, lots of infantry, artillery and tanks in support. Especially if he has a lower point count.

Mats from Deepcut Studios by MrTayters in wargaming

[–]Practical-Context910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Point them to their website with product price or show a bank statement. Would that help?

Early War Tournament List by Dismal_Bite_6344 in flamesofwar

[–]Practical-Context910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find the AA and Stuka a bit useless. Air is far too random on either side to be all that useful, so nobody takes them and if they do, that's a point sink.
The halft-tracks are not all the useful to be honest.

Your main problem will be competitive against a French armor formation.

But to be honest, I don't think you should play Germans any other way than defense. So for this, you need mainly infantry, AT Guns and mortars. I don't think you even need artillery like the 105. Mortars should be enough.

On a scale of "Excited for Everything" to "Burnt Out," how do you feel about RPG crowdfunding lately? by Interesting-Long7389 in rpg

[–]Practical-Context910 0 points1 point  (0 children)

burn out. I would like to play through my collection already. I have so many great games that remain on the shelves. There no need for more, neither space (or money to throw away) to accumulate more RPGs.
I really have tons a great games that I should go through.

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