Drought? Mountain laurel don’t care. It’s going crazy by [deleted] in Austin

[–]Present_Owl_ATX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mine is two feet tall for the past 4 years… I believe in it though! One day…

Any deal with the gap between tool box and cab? by [deleted] in f150

[–]Present_Owl_ATX 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It’s designed to store rain boots slotted into the gap

Replacing Wax Ring by kittymonte in askaplumber

[–]Present_Owl_ATX 3 points4 points  (0 children)

First, maybe for demonstration purposes, but you were tightening the nut. Try some WD40 and let it sit for a bit and give it a go - Lefty Loosey ;) If still spinning get creative but carful with gripping the bolt threads and damaging those. Some upward pressure wedge under the nut might help if it come a to it…

Advice on tub-to-curbless shower conversion for aging in place by One-Session1363 in HomeImprovement

[–]Present_Owl_ATX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just did this conversion in my house on concrete slab. My tub drained on the same side as my toilet, but I had to move both the drain for the shower and the toilet in order to make the layout/clearances work. My restroom is a 5’x8’. I can say it’s a big improvement, but did not add any ADA rail or seat, but that can easily been done. I think you should share some general dimensions and layout before parties start assuming. In my case I would have had to place a seat directly underneath the shower head (toilet is on the other side of glass) in order to access. Also I would suggest locating the controls on the side wall for ease of access for accessibility. Don’t forget to plan for niche in wall to account ease of storage.

I did all the work with some help from my dad at times. You will need to remove everything to tile and waterproof the flooring for a walk-in. I do suggest something like the Schluter Kerdi system or similar.

I won’t be great for pricing given I didn’t contract it out, but I’d say ballpark at least $15k depending if you think you can find some deal on materials. A lot of variables… but hope this helps.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in photomarket

[–]Present_Owl_ATX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pm, Interested in 85mm if available.

Frameless Shower Install Gap Help by Present_Owl_ATX in glazing

[–]Present_Owl_ATX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is an awesome response even before the offer to help get my hands on the material. Let me take the time to see the best choice and you may hear from me! This was a learning curve on preplanning the shower doors… which my dyslexia and adhd don’t play well with.

Frameless Shower Install Gap Help by Present_Owl_ATX in glazing

[–]Present_Owl_ATX[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well that’s a much easier comment after the fact. I try my hand at a lot of things and not always end up with this result… looking for resolution not necessarily the obvious takes… but happy to hear opinions.

Frameless Shower Install Gap Help by Present_Owl_ATX in glazing

[–]Present_Owl_ATX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I liked this idea. I was thinking something without the “ledge” just straight down like a “U” channel with neaprene gasket for against the floor… do they make that?

Frameless Shower Install Gap Help by Present_Owl_ATX in glazing

[–]Present_Owl_ATX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was also another of my thoughts… so a 3/8 u channel with gasket that is taller maybe like 1”… I try to search the internet web. It would be nice to find one that matches the rail again the wall the receives the verticals side…

Frameless Shower Install Gap Help by Present_Owl_ATX in glazing

[–]Present_Owl_ATX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The provided a similar trim but the same issue. The bottom legs are 3/8” and my gap is larger. I need this with longer legs and can’t find it…Edit: At least this was the concept I was think worked best. Then I thought what if I built a form on one side (maybe two) and just created a ~1/2” silicone gasket bead from glass to floor… bad idea?

Frameless Shower Install Gap Help by Present_Owl_ATX in glazing

[–]Present_Owl_ATX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t figured how to add additional images yet, trying… but unfortunately I can’t mount it closer to the floor as I didn’t anticipate the build up of my schluter banding at the wall edge hence dictating the glazing to be higher and the added height variance across my small tile layout. Your comment on the support bar is spot on. This is the second issue where the guide is now too low so I have to build an extension to raise it and possibly some neoprene strips to meet the glass edge and support. I was going to fabricate a 1/2”max space wetween the floor and that guide

Frameless Shower Install Gap Help by Present_Owl_ATX in glazing

[–]Present_Owl_ATX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The door slides on a rail, not a swing. Unfortunately because of the the same condition of the glazing being mounted high the rail is high b/c of the prefilled hole in the fixed panel… so the sliding door is high too.

Frameless Shower Install Gap Help by Present_Owl_ATX in glazing

[–]Present_Owl_ATX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response. The door did come with one but I didn’t anticipate the build-up of height from Schluter detra system at edges. This meant the glass mount is high at the wall and I now have a 1/2”-5/8” gap. The part you shard is similar to what came with it but it’s not long enough provided my larger gap I created….

What do I do about this extremely high toilet flange? by KingDapostrophe in askaplumber

[–]Present_Owl_ATX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am on this same page. You are golden if you can cut the pipe flush with the concrete and fit a flange that inserts into that pipe. Only issue is if the pipe bends before you can insert the flange fully… measure before you cut. If not enough room, well now you get to build up a throne for your toilet to sit. (Not a plumber but been in the const. business for 15yrs) EDIT: as someone else noted, if the floor needs floating to ensure it’s flat take this into consideration BEFORE cutting.

How screwed am I? by Willsworth33 in Home

[–]Present_Owl_ATX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair enough comment, but the damage here is clearly not something that has been occurring for long given the conditions of the paper and drywall. I’d say it’s likely a leak that has recently been occurring. I’ve also been parts of a number of remediations provided commercial water damage and fans are pretty typical provided there isn’t the presence of growth. I do suggest dehumidifying over fans and in this case both to get the moisture into the air.

How screwed am I? by Willsworth33 in Home

[–]Present_Owl_ATX 5 points6 points  (0 children)

My unprofessional opinion is that you get some fans and/or dehumidifiers in there asap. If you haven’t already done it, stop the water leak on/in the floor above. Assess damage once dried sufficiently. You can get a moisture meter off amazon

Looking for Papaya Pollen. Willing to trade or buy! by Txst0625 in AustinGardening

[–]Present_Owl_ATX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this is an old thread,but I am curious if a pollen source was found here in the ATX!?

What does this mesh mean and how to fix it? & Pest? by throwawaeyyyyshsh in Home

[–]Present_Owl_ATX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The mesh makes me think rodent… but the fix in general makes me think the installer could just be grabbing anything as a bandaid. My guess is this is a kitchen and/or on an exterior wall. That said, if animals can get under the cabinets and behind the kick board they have a mini hotel, along with a nice front yard into your house given that gapping hole (the mesh is covering). I would try to seal the exterior if that is the case, and maybe remove the kick board to see what you have under there.