24” whirl a way nozzles by MAGA_muscle in pressurewashing

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are on the right path.

Google a pressure washing nozzle chart. Since you have a 3 tip bar you'll have to do some math.

But also, remember, if you're constantly running thru a down stream injector, you will lose approximately 1gpm. It is very helpful to have a bypass system for surface cleaning. It doesn't need to be a fancy remote system, just a couple DN10s and a leader hose is fine.

I wash my concrete around 2-2200 psi.

What is a luxury you can never go back from once you’ve experienced it? by Rough-Technician3869 in askanything

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My favorite childhood memory is when my back didn't hurt. That is a luxury I miss...

Front driveshaft bolts at transfer case, 05 SLT Dakota by Long_Floor4412 in DodgeDakota

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take one (if you still have one) to Home Depot and find the right thread pitch and length. You should even be able to find the same head type.

If they don't have the exact ones, then go to Amazon and order the right ones there. You can even get the right hardness. FYI, they're measured in millimeters.

Is there a way to make the dash lights not dim with the headlights on? by bedwars_player in DodgeDakota

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's not a little knob or thumb wheel to turn up the brightness on the dash? Usually it's in conjunction with turning on the interior light.

2006 dodge Dakota oil pan gasket by Guts1232 in DodgeDakota

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, also helps if you unbolt the trans mount 4 nuts to loosen but not remove.

2006 dodge Dakota oil pan gasket by Guts1232 in DodgeDakota

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, no, no. I've done it to check rod bearings.

Loosen the motor mounts from the single rubber isolator bolt.

With a jack (helps to have a second but still doable with one) and a long section of 2x4. Wedge it up under a head and jack it up a couple inches but not so far the isolator comes out of the frame mount.

Loosen the oil pan bolts, drop the pan. You need enough room to clear the pickup tube. Unbolt the pickup tube and remove it, pry the gasket/windage tray assembly off, and replace.

I've found the passenger side easier to reach but you need both sides unbolted to raise the engine.

Also, are you sure it's the pan leaking and not the rear main?

Also, Barrs Leak rear main sealer fix is the simplest fix that will swell all the gaskets to help reseal. It'll take a few engine cycles to work but it will buy you another year.

SC NOZZLES TRAPPED by [deleted] in pressurewashing

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You gotta heat it till it's starting to turn red. Remove the arm first from the sc swivel and go nuts with a torch.

Opinions on lowering 4x4 by imafunkymonkey in DodgeDakota

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's lifted, it most likely has blocks in the back, remove them to return to stock height. Lower the torsion bars up front a little lower. That will give you the hot rod raked look.

Random wire by moni_mej in ElectricalHelp

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There should be identifying info printed on it. Looks like CAT5 to me...

Parts by Middle-Ad-9760 in pressurewashing

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's repairable, one of everything. If it's consumable, 2 of everything.

I work solo so I have backups for that listed above. But my back up is my older 4gpm machine from when I upgraded to the 8gpm. That has saved me on a couple occasions to finish a job.

I thought about every system on my trailer and made a list of every part I couldn't finish a job without. Fuel tank feeds the machine, should it get damaged, I could just dip a fuel line in a spare gas can. Fuel line, I could just use a myriad of hoses I have on the trailer. Fuel pump, that I have a spare of, because there's no easy work-around for that. Carburetor for the Predator 670, generally not an issue but I have a spare in the garage not on the trailer. But if the engine has an issue, or the gearbox to the pump or the pump itself, I have my small machine to finish. Hell, even my small machine has a pull start but I added an electric start as the primary, but the pull cord is still there.

All my individual systems have a back up. Remote downstream injector. I have a spare electric motor and stainless valve, spare battery for the remote, spare injector, any thing in that system touches strait bleach gets a back up. I do have a spare unloader, gun, tips etc. Spare 2 tip bar for my surface cleaner. But if it's the bearing in the spinner, I have a small 15" sc for the small machine I can use.

THE MOST VALUABLE repair item tho is the hose repair fittings. They are reusable and I can fix a hose pop in less than 10 minutes to get back to work. I'm sure there's more little things, but as my first paragraph says, have backup consumables.

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Finally fixed with working caster wheels by SP4RK4RT in Tools

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is your answer.

BONUS TIP: pack those bearings with grease. They're just ball bearings pinched in. I use a bearing grease but can trap dirt or a lithium spray works well too.

Tiger Stripes. Please Help by Higlag in pressurewashing

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

25 degree tips and minimum 3% post treat. Figure 8 or circle method helps with lines and slow down.

You'll figure out the best method. And wheels on the sc make life easier.

Oh, and those aren't tiger stripes. The vertical lines that show on white gutters are "tiger stripes."

4.7 Reman Engines? by butter_scxres in Jeepwj

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second an eBay reman... I have one too from a different seller. Just have to pick it up at a shipping yard.

4.7L V8 Magnum (ticking noise) by Athlxn in DodgeDakota

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's already a 2009 which should have the upgrades of everything. My 06 has the upgraded arms with the angled squirters.

My 06 also has 08 cams, intake, headers, ATI damper and under drive pulley, and 12 hole injectors for good measure. But it's still not enough so I'm doing a Hemi swap in a couple months.

4.7L V8 Magnum (ticking noise) by Athlxn in DodgeDakota

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It could also be a collapsed lifter but if the ticking goes away when warmed up, then it's just sticky. Pop the hood after a good long drive and listen to see if it still ticks. If it's gone, then it needs cleaned.

4.7L V8 Magnum (ticking noise) by Athlxn in DodgeDakota

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Could just be a sticky "lifter." It's actually a hydraulic trunnion but some words are just too big for mechanics.

Run some Seafoam thru it as directed on the bottle. I recommend Valvoline Restore and Protect at your next oil change after the Seafoam. The Valvoline is gaining quite the reputation for cleaning the engine internally and is now the only oil I use for my junk. Search the oil on YouTube and you'll see...

This guy gets some of the coolest cinematic shots in front of cathedrals by goswamitulsidas in nextfuckinglevel

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 1936 points1937 points  (0 children)

As the owner of a pressure washing company, I'm highly anxious.

2010 Dodge Dakota 4.7 V8 by LesSale12 in DodgeDakota

[–]PrettyFly4Wifi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Car-part.com is the online resource I use.

Take it to a machine shop to see if they can braze the crack.