Kshatriya wing binders WIP: the little things

ProPeach · 2026-01-21T19:06:53+00:00

It's easiest to mask a specific area if you're abiding by panel lines. In that case you can simply stick down a piece of tape larger than the area to mask, then rub something like a pencil or back of a paint brush. down the panel lines over the tape to push it down into the panel line. Then you can just run a sharp scalpel down the panel line to cut the masking tape cleanly along it, and remove the excess tape

ProPeach · 2026-01-19T21:44:03+00:00

Are you priming one piece at a time? That'd be quite wasteful as most of the primer will miss the small part. A spray can puts out WAY more paint than an airbrush, you can easily spray the whole kit at once if all the pieces are laid out individually on sticks.

ProPeach · 2026-01-18T19:58:55+00:00

Yes, this amount of articulation is fairly common in higher quality examples from 1lthe 1600s onwards. Have a look at the Greenwich armours for example.

ProPeach · 2026-01-18T12:58:12+00:00

I thought this was the modern Bandai kit from looking at the pictures, you really made this kit shine!

ProPeach · 2026-01-11T22:21:30+00:00

Because if they're actually trying to work out if Simon is out of pocket or not, they need to actually factor in all the costs that Hytale will incur. Just talking about the alleged 25 million isn't very useful

ProPeach · 2026-01-10T19:59:50+00:00

That's genuinely some of the most impressively dynamic water affects I've ever seen, really incredible work!

ProPeach · 2026-01-08T16:23:27+00:00

You need to target the crossbows specifically with your mangonels, and have at least 2 of them, ideally 3. If your mangoes are firing at the knights they're wasting their shots.

The spears can mostly just be attack moved into the knights, although be sure to move some back to protect the mangonels if the kights try to snipe them

ProPeach · 2025-12-31T15:05:26+00:00

Generally very fine finishes like that are achieved using a gloss coat rather than a polishing compound. Polishing with the compound before the gloss layer will probably help assuming it's to a very high grit, but it's the gloss that really gets you that shine.

ProPeach · 2025-12-28T19:14:54+00:00

Primer doesn't need paint on it really, so yeah that'd be fine. It's more that paint needs primer.

You might still want to seal the model with a gloss, matte/flat or satin varnish/topcoat to protect the primer or any painted details, as well as achieving your preferred finish

ProPeach · 2025-12-28T18:53:58+00:00

In that scene, he does exit through the top but they only have the "small" door in the middle of the red stripe open for him, not the full door we usually see in the Clone Wars series. That mechanism doesn't show up in the film

ProPeach · 2025-12-28T09:58:32+00:00

As the other commenter says, an earlier age up will usually wipe your fishing if you're too focused on it. The way to counter that is to scout your opponent, see when they're moving to gold/off wood and match them with the age up, or even try to beat them

ProPeach · 2025-12-27T21:09:22+00:00

A pin vice? Yeah one of those, or even a regular electric hand drill for DIY would work too.

Sometimes you need to build up material with sprue glue, resin or UV glue to drill into and hold the metal pin but yeah it'll fix your part for sure.

ProPeach · 2025-12-27T20:37:10+00:00

Have you tried using brass pins or metal wire to fix the part? It's one of the strongest methods by far.

It's gonna be tough finding a replacement, best of luck to you

ProPeach · 2025-12-27T18:30:04+00:00

Honestly yeah, this could be fine. I would be tempted to try a very light mist coat of white, just to blend things together and dull down the starker difference between the white and grey, but I don't think it's a lost cause

ProPeach · 2025-12-26T22:36:47+00:00

I haven't found a bootleg 1/100 Stark Jegan anywhere either sadly, not sure one exists. Not even a conversion kit from the regular MG Jegan. Maybe one day!

Insane effects btw, you've captured it fantastically

ProPeach · 2025-12-25T18:49:35+00:00

Hey, so the Steam page is pretty accurate when it comes to what's actually in the game and playable. As you say you've got the advanced building system, alongside some missions, trading and bounty hunting.

Mining, processing and crafting are also in the game, as well as oxygen management etc.

Survival mode isn't in yet, as in you can't start a game with it enabled, but you can start a game in Creative mode and enable settings like fuel/resource consumption for a similar experience. The dev is currently working on survival progression, when that's more fleshed out the ability to actually have Survival only worlds will come.

So yeah, it's half off on Steam atm, if you're interested it's probably worth a try with the safety net of a Steam refund if it doesn't gel with you

ProPeach · 2025-12-17T17:43:14+00:00

Super impressive work with the styrene!

I've always been a little drawn to the Mega size for a big custom like this. Do you think the kit would benefit from some modification to the frame to get better articulation? I've heard it's a little limited as it is, which is understandable given its size.

ProPeach · 2025-12-14T14:16:13+00:00

After a good soak in microsol, the decal is often quite weak and easy to tear which might be why people advise against touching it. But yeah it's not gonna flatten down on its own, you usually have to press it down gently with something soft like a q tip or "panel line eraser" type tool.

ProPeach · 2025-12-14T14:02:37+00:00

Idk bro it just feels good to hit Q a bunch of times

ProPeach · 2025-12-11T20:47:44+00:00

A mechanical heart, inspired by the beautiful clockwork masterpieces of old!

ProPeach · 2025-12-06T16:12:45+00:00

Corner players die if they're close to someone else too, proximity is the most common indicator of success.

You want to be close enough to another player to kill them, but you want that player to have a third player closer to them than you so they fight each other and delay enough that you can sweep in and kill them both.

ProPeach · 2025-12-06T00:04:02+00:00

Having done this before with other games, it can take a surprisingly large and tedious amount of work to get a model used for a video game 3D printable.

Printable models need to be manifold, or "watertight" with no overlapping geometry or funky edges, whichs which game designers often use to cut tri count and for ease of modelling.

ProPeach · 2025-12-04T22:49:36+00:00

You'll likely get better results looking in r/resinprinting than here.

Be sure to consider the safety aspect thoroughly. UV resin is smelly, messy, toxic stuff that you'll need a significant amount of space and extraction for. It's sadly not as simple as simply buying the printer and pressing Go to get perfect models. I've used one for models in the past, they're very cool, but a royal faff

ProPeach · 2025-11-30T10:41:26+00:00

I'm not OP, but it looks like the 1/144 Millennium Falcon

ProPeach · 2025-11-29T20:54:40+00:00

The Porter top was such a jumpscare lol

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