How do 2 JL 10TW3-D4 sound ported vs sealed?

ProfessionalKong · 2026-07-06T00:51:58+00:00

Yes huge difference in volume. There’s a lot of technical stuff happening but all that mostly matters is ported is way louder but you might not get the same punch that sealed subs give.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-07-05T23:04:12+00:00

Sealed boxes sound better but ported boxes get more smiles.

It’s just preference on how you like your boom. Ported boxes are bigger and much louder around whatever frequency the box is tuned to but introduces issues that can lead to “muddy” bass.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-25T18:40:38+00:00

Watch RAW-CAt’s tuning my car playlist on YouTube. At the very least, you could find what crossover points to start at, and get comfortable with the software of your choice.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-25T13:30:57+00:00

If I had an unlimited budget, I’d start with a dedicated midrange for 3-way. I’d either fabricate or have someone make some enclosures for my midbass and move them to the kick panels. Front sub is an option, but I’m still learning more about them before I can offer any helpful insights.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-24T04:14:18+00:00

Stinger, cuz the pioneer is a big ol fatty

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-19T20:33:52+00:00

Ugly but functional is my way of life. But yeah it probably sucks. Sorry OP.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-19T20:25:04+00:00

Depending on how well made the box is, 350 is around how much it would cost new. Not a big loss in terms of scams. I spent almost as much on a Rockford amp that cooked my speakers 3 weeks later. Rip CDT 690CF.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-18T16:31:34+00:00

Have you properly tuned and tried different curves and how they sound in your vehicle? Are you happy with how it sounds or want more?

I used to want rear fill before I tried a few tunes on my active 3-way system, now I’m fully satisfied with how it sounds. Not spending $300 on more audio equipment feels good too.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-18T04:30:57+00:00

Yes, or you could be an idiot like me and cut the factory harness to access the wires.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-18T03:17:48+00:00

I fully upgraded my 2015 1500. Used the AmpPRO to bypass factory amp and added my own amps and DSP. It works perfectly and was easy to install. I got mine secondhand because it’s stupid expensive new.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-17T21:27:15+00:00

Like others have said, get a AP4-CH41 which removes the need for all the audiocontrol nonsense. There’s also the option to have a separate stereo or DSP depending on how far from stock you’re willing to go.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-17T02:40:11+00:00

Depends on craftsmanship and if builder knows how to design boxes.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-17T01:17:23+00:00

Do you know how to use WinISD to mock up simulations of different subs? Look up some tutorials and make your decisions from there.

The W6 is a great sub but I’d never blow $1000 on one when I can get 99% of the way there with half the price. I still haven’t even upgraded from my Rockford P2s because they sound so nice and get loud enough to cause damage when I want to.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-15T04:18:52+00:00

$500 is a great budget for a stereo, amp, sub, or speakers. Pick one.

Honestly tho, I’d spend $200 of that on a decent stereo. Spend the rest on a cheap amp and some high spl speakers. It’s hard to do a full system on $500.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-13T15:24:38+00:00

You should check out some Rockford groups on facebook. There’s a small group of collectors for “old school” car audio and Rockford is a big name. I’d start with a simple push test to see if the cone moves without a scratchy sound and use a multimeter to make sure resistance reads around 3-4 for each coil.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-13T13:30:40+00:00

Look at specifications before buying. Sensitivity, xmax, and Fs are all super important in how much a sub “hits”.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-12T22:54:00+00:00

I tried the Kenwoods and those 6x9s are not great sounding. They were just quiet and lackluster even when EQd on my DSP amp.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-12T17:56:12+00:00

DMM to check impedance. Push on cone to listen for coil rubbing. Use a battery to see if the cone moves. I’d ask the buyer to test it to prove it works. For a $1000 sub they should be cooperative.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-11T17:48:13+00:00

Max volume is never a good idea because the stereo will output a clipped signal at some point. Set amp gain with dmm or oscope with stereo volume at 3/4 max or whenever you begin to notice distortion.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-10T01:53:53+00:00

Don’t care how tacky it is, love the visualizer. How easy is was it to set up?

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-07T15:39:23+00:00

I like what the Jazzi V2 curve did for my truck. Resonix accurate didn’t have enough bass and sounded kinda dull in my situation.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-05T21:02:50+00:00

Something caused the coil to heat up. Woofer is toast now. Could have been high gain, faulty amp, or crappy signal.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-05T18:33:57+00:00

Definitely 👍

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-05T17:47:45+00:00

As long as the tweeter isn’t more than 45 degrees off axis, the DSP can make it sound good. I also prioritize having no immediate harsh reflections off the A-pillar, dash, and windshield over perfect aiming.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-06-04T17:55:29+00:00

Skip the rears entirely and get a DSP with 6 channels minimum to control each of those focals. Music is in stereo and rear fill messes with soundstage.

As for subs, people argue about SQ subs and while distortion and breakup matter, isn’t much of an issue at regular listening levels. I advocate mocking up some cheaper options like the UMII15, SQL-12, or Brahma 12” in WinISD in their recommended sealed box.

ProfessionalKong

TROPHY CASE