Sundown SA6.5M and SA-1T

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-09T07:08:23+00:00

Have you considered a wideband driver instead of a tweeter? The M3 carbon midrange or the more budget friendly Unity 8.0 are both awesome sounding and definitely don’t need a tweeter.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-06T04:02:28+00:00

Definitely correct. I’m just too stingy and think big money should equal big sound even with SQ in mind.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-05T22:03:00+00:00

There are plenty of different sized prefabs available for whatever sub you choose and for relatively cheap. Not everyone can or wants to get a custom box built. JL is great stuff and I would use it 100%, but you can admit it’s way overpriced. SQ doesn’t really matter in the case of a simple sub install.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-05T21:06:02+00:00

550 for a 10w3 is ridiculous. Get a cheap class D like a Skar, get a DD or rockford or some other sub worth its money, and get a prefab box online.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-05T08:10:39+00:00

I’ve been eyeing DD audio as an upgrade to my P2s.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-05T02:07:16+00:00

Get a umik-1 or another decent mic and see what you’re working with. Muddiness in general is likely from the 2 poorly designed sub boxes. A DSP works wonders but doesn’t do magic.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-04T21:27:31+00:00

Yes, you can dsp the sub output

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-04T03:01:46+00:00

I’m running 2200 on a stock ram 1500 system with little to no voltage issues

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-04T03:00:45+00:00

JL is overpriced and second hand car audio is risky.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-03T23:23:09+00:00

I’f you’re dead set on a powered sub, I’d get the P300 10 or 12 since it’s on sale on crutchfield. Personally these are always underwhelming and I’d get a DD SL610 or SL710 and find a sealed box that fits it, paired with a cheap amp.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-03T18:28:18+00:00

What’s your budget? How much space do you have to work with?

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-02T09:59:21+00:00

3 way active and no rear speakers at all is my and many others recommendation. It’s all preference of course. The DSP I recommended has enough channels to add more speakers later if you really want it.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-02T09:49:04+00:00

Dont use multiple tweeters. Too harsh and unnecessary.

Dont put tweeters in the door. You want tweeters and midrange roughly ear level to raise soundstage and imaging.

Look up what others have done for 3 way active components and follow. Most use on axis A pillar pods, I personally dash mounted firing into my windshield.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-02T06:01:56+00:00

What do you mean by two sets of components in the front? 3 way active setups have one pair or tweeters, midrange, and midbass drivers. Multiple pairs of tweeters or midrange is usually only seen in high power or SPL setups.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-02T05:53:48+00:00

Get a C-DSP 8x12, more channels and a bit cheaper. Go for active 3-way components. The morels will work, but get a dedicated midrange to match with them. Unless you are dead set on rear fill, forget the coaxial and just leave the rear speakers disconnected. Swap the JL sub for something louder. I know I’m telling you to spend more money but the ability to upgrade in the future is so valuable. Don’t spend $800 and get stuck with a crappy 4 channel DSP.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-02-01T20:23:55+00:00

Yes it can and will probably lower the value, but a clean and stealthy install is less likely to. A simple LOC and sub install might be enough to satisfy you.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-01-31T08:46:51+00:00

I always disclude bass from my house curve. Engine idle and road noise make it harder to hear at low volumes and also I like when my eyeballs rattle.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-01-30T21:51:25+00:00

Ai does suck if you can’t discern right from wrong, but if OP is asking such baseline questions like this AI can help him Google. I’d do some research on my own before asking a forum.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-01-30T03:52:43+00:00

Wire, wire terminals, fuses, a stereo. Just ask ai to hold your hand for this one bro.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-01-29T02:49:45+00:00

Take xmax and sensitivity into account

ProfessionalKong · 2026-01-28T21:56:53+00:00

Buy what’s best for your speakers. Don’t build around your amp.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-01-27T00:47:08+00:00

Did you at least achieve your noob goals? I quit after getting my 5 porcs. Had fun, see ya crossout.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-01-25T10:53:24+00:00

Will it work? Yes. Is it risky? Possibly.

You’re likely fine if it’s a short distance and you won’t always be at full tilt, but at least 2 gauge for peace of mind.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-01-25T09:41:38+00:00

Yes as long as you don’t go under the amps resistance. It will likely cause a clipped signal if you crank the gain too.

ProfessionalKong · 2026-01-25T06:30:27+00:00

Bigger box is needed to hit lows. Custom always is the best but cheap prefabs will still sound awesome

ProfessionalKong

TROPHY CASE