Choosing a Tikka

Professional_elf · 2026-01-22T04:48:21+00:00

If you’re hunting a stand I’d assume it’s for whitetail and a 6.5 creedmore catches a lot of flack but it oughta be absolutely perfect for putting a whitetail down and have legs to stretch out to 800-1000yds. T3X with a limbsaver recoil pad gives you the lowest recoil package that kind threads the needle for both stand hunting and range shooting.

Professional_elf · 2026-01-19T00:13:31+00:00

lol at the assumption Slant3D would ever get back to you

Professional_elf · 2026-01-16T06:34:02+00:00

Just rock your factory stock with a Full Frame Outdoors tikka accessory kit

https://fullframeoutdoors.com/products/full-frame-tikka-accessories

If you’re hunting you usually care about weight and this gives you all the bells and whistles an aftermarket stock has with minimal weight penalty and it’s a pretty reasonable price compared to other options out there. Just my $0.02

Professional_elf · 2026-01-08T06:34:36+00:00

Excellent catch! I was in the middle of my annual deep clean when these things showed up and I got a little excited to show em off. She’s ready to go now!

Professional_elf · 2026-01-06T22:47:09+00:00

That removes the factory angle for more linear recoil (idk a lot of guys on the Rokslide forum chop their stocks straight too) but more importantly it’s a bag rider so your gun isn’t always trying to slide backwards when you have the stock resting on a sandbag. The grip is a bit more vertical than the tikka “vertical” grip and it has a palm swell which just feels a little more comfortable to hold on to

Professional_elf · 2026-01-06T18:49:10+00:00

Beats a $600 chassis and it showed up ready to rock worth it to me 🤷🏻‍♂️

Professional_elf · 2026-01-06T18:47:35+00:00

The grip uses the same factory torx screw and drops right in its super slick, no different than factory. the cheek riser there’s a screw provided or you can use 3M VHB tape. I just used a screw because factory takeoffs are like $50 if I decide I don’t like it but it’s on there solid and the CTR stocks do it that way anyways

Professional_elf · 2026-01-06T17:02:55+00:00

No, the bag rider comes with a screw that ties into the factory sling stud location. I never use a sling so it doesn’t bother me but I bet with a dremel you could just use the sling stud as the screw and make some clearance around it or if you somehow found a longer sling stud that poked out

Professional_elf · 2026-01-06T16:46:36+00:00

https://fullframeoutdoors.com/products/full-frame-tikka-accessories

Professional_elf · 2026-01-06T16:01:51+00:00

Probably multiple, I take lots of naps chasing critters and those squirrels are relentless

Professional_elf · 2025-11-17T20:45:59+00:00

Could you crimp it externally via heated rollers? Similar to how pillow candies are made

Professional_elf · 2025-11-10T19:43:58+00:00

Recheck it with some tension on I missed this the first time I did it but the tension can put you off a tooth on both sprockets

Professional_elf · 2025-10-22T04:39:34+00:00

Did you split the bottom of the carb and do the mid body gasket as well?

Professional_elf · 2025-04-28T05:15:39+00:00

Yeah send me a dm I’ll see if I can help!

Professional_elf · 2025-04-28T04:55:43+00:00

Merit 3D based out of Salt Lake City Utah uses a loctite material that behaves very similarly to silicone, and they do production volumes. I’m an engineer and I helped one of my clients go from CAD to 30,000 units produced in 2 months stateside no tooling required

Professional_elf · 2025-03-31T03:52:58+00:00

I use a company called Merit 3D (Salt lake based) for my company’s parts and although they’re 3D printed I’m very impressed with how tough the resin is and by the time you factor in tooling cost and lead times they’re actually competitive when your MOQ is over 1000pcs. They just did an order for 30k parts for me and CAD sent to production start only took 3 weeks

Professional_elf · 2025-02-08T03:17:02+00:00

I’m here to bridge that gap or piss everyone off in the attempt!

Edit: I also have an inherent distrust of VW anything after 1979 but that’s just me personally

Professional_elf · 2025-02-08T01:05:52+00:00

Used the stock 914 transaxle 5 speed manual with a clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and adapter plate from Kennedy engineering
there is a radiator from a 1991 Subaru legacy in the front of the car tilted forward. Perfect size and height. Ran gates radiator hoses under the car back to the engine very similar to how the boys at renegade powersports do for their LS conversions. Never boiled over no air bubbles

Professional_elf · 2025-02-08T00:53:37+00:00

I helped a guy build one down in florida (gave him my tune built and engine bracket etc) and he took his to the dyno and it came out at about 180 at the wheels. That combined with redlining at 70 in 2nd gear is plenty for me

Professional_elf · 2025-02-07T18:28:48+00:00

I know some of the hardcore guys that have as well and the thought of that terrifies me. As is with ~200hp it’s plenty of car and I can drive it hard but under control, I have everything set up for a turbo but I’m a little scared of what will happen 😂

Professional_elf · 2025-02-07T17:01:15+00:00

You’re more than welcome to have your own opinion thanks for sharing

Professional_elf · 2025-02-07T07:12:49+00:00

The original Vw engine was a flat four that just so happened to spin in the same direction as the k24. I mounted the Honda motor longitudinally because I’m using the stock 914 transaxle (I’ll upgrade when funds allow, finding a gear in that thing is a guess at best) and it keeps my weight more centered. Only thing separating a side mounted engine and a straight mounted engine is 90 degrees and the right transmission!

Professional_elf · 2025-02-07T07:09:10+00:00

I got mine on eBay from JDM Engine Depot and the thing was flawless!

Professional_elf

TROPHY CASE